Protege Build thread 2015 (Tons of pics!)

[Maxx Mazda]

I have Integral stage 3 turbo Camshafts. They use the stock (puny) dowels. I decided to upgrade them to the dowels from a big block Chevy that I sourced from Mopac. Removed the stock dowels, had the holes machined out to the proper size, and installed the new ones.





Stock puny dowel next to the new and beefy one.



New dowel installed, and comparison to stock.





The cam gear needs to be modified to accept the larger dowel.



Had my Perrin fuel rail powdercoated, and I machined the pressure regulator mounting surface. The stock blue anodizing looked out of place against the rest of the shit in my engine bay.

[Maxx Mazda]

Got the cam gears modified for the thicker cam dowels, and coated.





Both cams now modified with the big block Chevy dowel pins, all hardware cleaned and laid out. New cam seals installed.







Engine timed and ready to rip





Sorry for the shitty pic, but rebuilt the alternator and had the case powdercoated.



Engine completed minus a new crank pulley. She looks shiny!

[tomt64]

Looking fresh, great job! Its all in the details

[Maxx Mazda]

Thanks! That's the way I like to do things.

[ExtraSlow]

Originally posted by diamondedge
That valve cover is porn. Strong porn. This entire thread is basically fisting.

I couldn't say it better myself.

[Danny Meehan]

The amount of work put in is incredible

You've done an amazing job!

Respect !

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Are the cam dowels a problem area on those engines?

[Shlade]

Pretty amazing

[Maxx Mazda]

Originally posted by BerserkerCatSplat
Are the cam dowels a problem area on those engines?

Not at all. I just didn't want to chance it.

[01RedDX]

.

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Originally posted by Maxx Mazda


Not at all. I just didn't want to chance it.

Nothing wrong with that!

[Dave P]

Great Build.

You should post up the KDX build to from a few years back as the attention to detail was on the same level.

[Maxx Mazda]

Originally posted by Dave P
Great Build.

You should post up the KDX build to from a few years back as the attention to detail was on the same level.

Haha wow even I completely forgot about that! Are you on TT? I posted my KX125 and TTR rebuilds over there as well.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/967...kx-old-school/

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/962...k-twenty-five/

Anyone else who's bored give those links a look.

[Maxx Mazda]

Finally got my wiring harness completed. Words can not describe the level of planning and execution that went into this. Everything was routed, then heat-shrink wrapped and labeled. (Think Ry-Wire style.) Spent about $150 in heat shrink alone, not to mention all the wire, solder, etc. Probably have close to 100 man hours into this harness. All connectors were de-pinned and removed so that I could fit the shrink over the bare wires. Again, insane amounts of work. You kinda have to work backwards, from the end of a wire to the base, because you want your smaller heat shrink to go inside the bigger one, as you progress down the "tree."

[relyt92]

Dang, that's all I've got to say about that.

[FixedGear]

What an awesome thread! Great job that car is sweet!

[nykz]

Love build threads like these with so much attention to detail. Mad props to you! Looks awesome can't wait to see more progress

[Maxx Mazda]

Sorry it's been awhile since the last update. Got the harmonic balancer torqued on and the alternator / water pump belt tightened.



Didn't like how I had the intercooler brackets mounted to the bumper, so I built some new ones and welded them on. I suck at welding, but they're strong. Cleaned the FMIC as well.





Now that the wiring harness was complete, I could mount the subframe, new control arms and bushings, and start getting the front end back together.

[Maxx Mazda]

Decided to get rid of the power steering for better feel, and simplicity. Many people will just "loop the lines" but that is the hack way of doing shit... I actually set out to de-power the rack.

Rack removed:



Rack disassembled. The piston on the rack needs to be removed or else we're pushing fluid / air which gives resistance.







I searched high and low for metric plugs to fit where the stock lines used to go. Couldn't find any. Decided instead to weld up the stock fittings. Doesn't need to be fancy or airtight, just enough to keep dust out.

[Maxx Mazda]

The pinion shaft acts like a fancy hydraulic valve, it's actually quite simple in its design. I won't explain that here, but it needs to be welded solid to eliminate slop in the steering once the valve body is removed. Again, I'm no pro welder, but I got good penetration and a strong bond.



Got the housing cleaned up and painted, ready for assembly.





Select the proper grease, and be sure to use lots on the shaft now that there's no steering fluid inside the rack anymore.





Completed rack, re-centered and installed back into the car.