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Thread: Undeveloped walk out basement = FREEZING

  1. #1
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    Default Undeveloped walk out basement = FREEZING

    As title states it's unbearably cold down there on cold days like these (-10 and lower). I suspect it might be the air intake? The rest of the house is fine. It's a 2 storey built in 2007. Any help?
    You have a couple of photos that are great... you must be very good at photoshop!

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    Are your basement heat ducts open? -10 doesn't sound even close to being normal lol.
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    Originally posted by CapnCrunch
    Are your basement heat ducts open? -10 doesn't sound even close to being normal lol.
    I think he meant -10 outside, not in the basement.

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    It's pretty typical.

    Your walkout is uninsulated then if the basement is undeveloped, correct?

    Insulate the side that is exposed to the elements, should help a bit.

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    yeah too many factors without seeing how "undeveloped" it really is

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    Is it insulated with vapor barrier? Heat ducts in the ceiling? The combustion air intake shouldn't make it that chilly down there. I'd check for drafts/leaks around the door/windows.

    Adding a floor level cold air intake for the furnace could help out.

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    Interesting, my sister-in-law has a 20 year old mutli-floor home in Tuscany with a fully developed walkout basement and despite it being properly insulated including the garage walls, it is always is unbelievable cold in their walk-out basement. Personally, I think it has more too do with the open stairwell that goes all the way up to the top floor - can't help but think that that just funnels the home's heat to the top floor. Come to think pf it, the only warm room on their main floor is the living room and that is probably because it has a regular doorway into it that at least keeps some of the heat in there - their kitchen/dining/family room which is one open space on the main floor that connects directly to the open stairwell is also always coolish. Everything on the upper level, always quite comfortable.

    So maybe it's a home's design more than anything else.
    Will fuck off, again.

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    Originally posted by ercchry
    yeah too many factors without seeing how "undeveloped" it really is
    It's a standard new home at the time so the exterior concrete walls are framed/insulated with a layer of clear plastic. I've got used carpet and underlay over 99% of the concrete floor. Because of the walkout we had to pay for the frost wall, whatever that means. LOL I know NOTHING about houses.

    There's that fresh air intake that usually frosts up on cold days like this. But yeah could be right - there must be a draft coming in from the walkout side..
    You have a couple of photos that are great... you must be very good at photoshop!

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    Originally posted by speedog
    Interesting, my sister-in-law has a 20 year old mutli-floor home in Tuscany with a fully developed walkout basement and despite it being properly insulated including the garage walls, it is always is unbelievable cold in their walk-out basement. Personally, I think it has more too do with the open stairwell that goes all the way up to the top floor - can't help but think that that just funnels the home's heat to the top floor. Come to think pf it, the only warm room on their main floor is the living room and that is probably because it has a regular doorway into it that at least keeps some of the heat in there - their kitchen/dining/family room which is one open space on the main floor that connects directly to the open stairwell is also always coolish. Everything on the upper level, always quite comfortable.

    So maybe it's a home's design more than anything else.
    LOL yeah we have a open to above living room/stair as well. Maybe something about Tuscany haha. The main floor is fine, my son's room gets a little cold as it's cantilevered over the front porch so nothing underneath and my bonus room gets a little chilly as well because it's overtop an uninsulated garage.
    You have a couple of photos that are great... you must be very good at photoshop!

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    Clear plastic probably doesn't have that much in the way of insulation abilities - sounds like you need some proper insulation/finishing down there to warm things up.
    Will fuck off, again.

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    Originally posted by speedog
    Clear plastic probably doesn't have that much in the way of insulation abilities - sounds like you need some proper insulation/finishing down there to warm things up.
    It's insulated.. So the walls of the basement are framed/insulated and the plastic is the part that holds in the insulation.. Just missing the drywall. Oh and yes heat ducts in the ceiling.

    My parents have an undeveloped non-walk out in Edgemont built in 91 and that basement is awesome - super warm in the winter and perfectly cool in the summer. I used to sleep in it lots when I lived at home because it was such a comfy environment; but a long ways to the washroom LOL.
    You have a couple of photos that are great... you must be very good at photoshop!

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    Even our finished walkout is cold. I sort of expected it to be colder than the rest of the house since it is a basement and all.
    It was especially cold when it was just an empty undeveloped space. It is however perfect in the summer time, and when the A/C kicks on it gets a bit chilly even.

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    I close the vents to the basement in the summer to direct the cold AC air to the bedrooms. Otherwise.
    Quote Originally Posted by killramos View Post
    This quote is hidden because you are ignoring this member. Show Quote
    You realize you are talking to the guy who made his own furniture out of salad bowls right?

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    Often the culprit is cold air intake that is open to the basement. When you have long pipe that goes to the roof and open end in the basement in cold temps cold air is "heavy" and unloads into basement via open end of cold air intake. The simple solution is to setup damper valve in the open end of pipe in the basement to prevent of cold air coming in. Another simple solution (not recommended is to cover this pipe with something that would restrict airflow back. I believe the reason for cold air intake pipe venting to the basment is that in case of snow blocking intake on the roof you still have air available for furnace and thus not resulting in incomplete burn reaction and potential exposure to CO. I alwayz had walkout basements and it was warm as any room in the house. I had seperate utility room and due to cold air intake dropping air into room it was rather cold. I would partially restrict dishchrge of air via damper design. One can also use a longer duct pipe and attach it to cold air return dishcharge to make it taller and restrict outflow of cold air. Wonder how others deal with this.

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    It will never be warm until you close off the furnace, and you put in cold air returns on the basement floor so that air actually circulates down there. You also need a heat vent in front of every window/door.

    Is your insulation R8 or R12? They changed code a little while ago.

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    Originally posted by Waldi
    Often the culprit is cold air intake that is open to the basement. When you have long pipe that goes to the roof and open end in the basement in cold temps cold air is "heavy" and unloads into basement via open end of cold air intake. The simple solution is to setup damper valve in the open end of pipe in the basement to prevent of cold air coming in. Another simple solution (not recommended is to cover this pipe with something that would restrict airflow back. I believe the reason for cold air intake pipe venting to the basment is that in case of snow blocking intake on the roof you still have air available for furnace and thus not resulting in incomplete burn reaction and potential exposure to CO. I alwayz had walkout basements and it was warm as any room in the house. I had seperate utility room and due to cold air intake dropping air into room it was rather cold. I would partially restrict dishchrge of air via damper design. One can also use a longer duct pipe and attach it to cold air return dishcharge to make it taller and restrict outflow of cold air. Wonder how others deal with this.
    I think you are on to something. This might be the ticket..!

    http://www.hoyme.com/index.php?optio...d=49&Itemid=58

    These guys are based in Camrose and have a solution to the problem. So if I understand it correctly, what this does is that when the furnace starts up, the motor opens the fresh air vent, and closes it when it stops? I guess I don't have a high efficiency furnace LOL.
    You have a couple of photos that are great... you must be very good at photoshop!

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    Originally posted by clem24


    I think you are on to something. This might be the ticket..!

    http://www.hoyme.com/index.php?optio...&Itemid=58

    These guys are based in Camrose and have a solution to the problem. So if I understand it correctly, what this does is that when the furnace starts up, the motor opens the fresh air vent, and closes it when it stops? I guess I don't have a high efficiency furnace LOL.
    i think you just solved the last mystery piece i have in my setup!

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    I installed a Hoyme damper myself in out walkout years ago. The furnace room we built would get so cold you could see your breath. After the install it was like night and day.
    Install is very simple but you should have some basic wiring skills.

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    Found a guy to come out and do the install tonight! Thanks Waldi!

    Yeah once the flap is open, the cold air is literally GUSHING in and then nothing when it closes.

    It'll probably take a few on/off cycles (plus tomorrow should help too) to feel the effect. Thursday should be a good test when it drops down to -15c again.
    You have a couple of photos that are great... you must be very good at photoshop!

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    Originally posted by Waldi
    Often the culprit is cold air intake that is open to the basement. When you have long pipe that goes to the roof and open end in the basement in cold temps cold air is "heavy" and unloads into basement via open end of cold air intake. The simple solution is to setup damper valve in the open end of pipe in the basement to prevent of cold air coming in. Another simple solution (not recommended is to cover this pipe with something that would restrict airflow back. I believe the reason for cold air intake pipe venting to the basment is that in case of snow blocking intake on the roof you still have air available for furnace and thus not resulting in incomplete burn reaction and potential exposure to CO. I alwayz had walkout basements and it was warm as any room in the house. I had seperate utility room and due to cold air intake dropping air into room it was rather cold. I would partially restrict dishchrge of air via damper design. One can also use a longer duct pipe and attach it to cold air return dishcharge to make it taller and restrict outflow of cold air. Wonder how others deal with this.
    Couldn't you just insulate the cold air intake instead?
    Vettel's #1

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