For snorkelling, definitely check out Ulua Beach and Makena Landing.
FYI, you don't need an SUV/4x4 at all for the road to Hana, it's completely paved. However, if you go the way I'm going to suggest, I would recommend one just in case some areas are washed out from rain.
I would HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend going counter clockwise and doing the full circle to Hana. The travel is so much better. There is an area on the map where the rental companies don't want you to go but it's fine. If you really want a driving adventure, take the north shore road between Lahaina and Wailuku (hwy 340). This is what I expected the RtH to be like after all the horror stories you read. It's total crazyness but a lot of fun, well after looking back!
Pipiwai Trail at sunset could be interesting but definitely bring a flashlight at bare minimum. The hiking isn't hard, there are two very small creek crossings closer to the falls, but the boardwalks can get pretty slick and some areas of the trail quite muddy depending if it's rained a lot or not. Also the creek crossings might be more interesting, again depending on how much rain they have received. Not sure how you guys have planned for this but I might suggest to drive clockwise and stay in Hana one night and continue for the sunset at the falls the next day. Get the Maui Revealed guidebook, it makes the drive around there much better and easier. Make sure to check out the Venus Pool - a must see.
Stop in Paia at the Fish Market Restaurant for dinner for a generous serving of fresh fish
The Haleakala sunrise is awesome. Get there earlier than you'd expect as it gets busy and everyone wants a photo. Others at the hostel suggested to check out the sunset but I never got a chance, some amazing star gazing up there too.
Maui and Kauai were my favorite islands because there is more adventure-type activities to do. Go out and explore, you'll have a blast!
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