Wait, this can reduce the amount of hot water per cycle? I always run out of hot water, I've already turned up the little blue dial on the tank because there wasn't enough hot water. The tank has never been drained, that was next on the list.Originally posted by C_Dave45
Just a thought: When you cut the old valves out, remove/replace the diptube going into the HWT at the same time. Unless it's in perfect shape. Dip tubes often break down and are a common cause of running out of hot water before your shower's finished.
I've turned it all the way in both directions, a one-drop-per-five-seconds is the lowest I can get it down to.Originally posted by DustanS
Turn that old gate valve a quarter to half turn to the right and that drip will likely stop.
I replaced the saddle valve last year thanks to my best friends on Beyond.Originally posted by mr2mike
He's not removing the notoriously leaky saddle valve. El Cheapo isn't going to replace the $10 dip tube.
No joke, when I read his reply I thought, "He's being way too helpful to me, is he new?"Originally posted by mr2mike
You must be new to Mar threads.
I just spent $1500 renovating the basement after a flood, we finished it a month ago. I escaped with minimal NES collection loss.Originally posted by carson blocks
Werd. In before flood of biblical proportions. Also in before 'Can I retroactively buy flood insurance?' thread, the 'How to drain my basement?' thread, and the 'How do I haul home reno supplies on a Veloster?' thread.
I suggest building an ark before you start, or calling a competent plumber.
To all the rest, I'll rethink the strategy with the valve I have and look into soldering the connection. I can solder car wiring like a champ (ask David) but was always told copper pipes are a different beast.
Can I cut the pipe with a hack saw or do I need some sort of special saw?