Best SUV for under $5000?

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Due to the uh recent weather, my mom has decided that she doesnt want to drive her new car in the winter, and wanst to buy a SUV to drive during the winter. Which leaves the question, what is the most reliable/best buy for under $5000? I dont know much about trucks, we are a all sports car family lol. Also Manual transmission is much preffered, and 4x4 is a must.

[AndyL]

I'd be looking at a gen2 (90-96?) 4runner if it was me; should be in the price range... Give it a set of nokians and it'll be pretty much unstoppable (wife's dd/wt actually)

Though I am going to be pushing her in the direction of a supercharged AWD Previa (then I can takeover the 4runner :D)

[bituerbo]

Buy a 4WD Ford Explorer for $4000, and save the $1000 for a good set of tires. An older Toyota may be more 'romantic' but parts availability is higher with the Ford, and you're going to get more bang for your buck with the initial buy.

Checking Kijiji, there are a couple of '98 XLT's available for under $4g, and they have both been posted in the past 3 days.

[kevie88]

How about none of them? There are plenty of AWD cars that are better in all conditions than SUV's. Maybe an Outback or an Allroad Audi?

Does she want to go offroad regularly? If not, I can't see any reason why an SUV is better than an AWD car.

[Kloubek]

It is true that AWD is just as good in the snow.

But if you are looking for an SUV, I'd go with Toyota FAR before I'd go with an Explorer. Pathfinders are decent quality. Jeeps are hit and miss, but are great vehicles if the hold up.

And Kevie: If you know where I can get an Allroad for 5g, please let me know. An older Outback, maybe...

[narou]

2nd gen 4crawler

[corsvette]

Watch the 4 runners,seen lots of headgasket problems on those,they do cost lots to fix and maintain,I had a Pathfinder which i loved,but it too had lots of big and small problems which seemed to cost double compaired to the family's old Blazer.in the end for a winter ride a Explorer-Jeep-Blazer etc will be cheaper,and do the same job.

[preludez]

Originally posted by Twin_Cam_Turbo
Due to the uh recent weather, my mom has decided that she doesnt want to drive her new car in the winter, and wanst to buy a SUV to drive during the winter. Which leaves the question, what is the most reliable/best buy for under $5000? I dont know much about trucks, we are a all sports car family lol. Also Manual transmission is much preffered, and 4x4 is a must.


http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-SUVs-trucks-vans-minivans-vans-2001-Isuzu-Rodeo-W0QQAdIdZ167883604

[AndyL]

Originally posted by corsvette
Watch the 4 runners,seen lots of headgasket problems on those,they do cost lots to fix and maintain
Semi truth - stick to the 4cyl; can't beat the 22RE for reliability... 3.0 sucks arse, but gets the job done. Not that bad on maintenance, no parts aren't hard to find...

And if you're comparing a exploder to a 4runner - you need your head checked... I had an exploder - I always had a idler, tensioner and belt in the truck; because you'd blow one of them out at least every year... And we wont discuss electrical issues... fawk...

[narou]

You probably right! The 3l felt gutless anyway but im just amazed it made it to almost 436xxxkm before throwing a rod bearing. What amazes me even more is how I was able to idle around to pick someone up and then go home before abandoning the thing.

[bituerbo]

Originally posted by preludez



http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-SUVs-trucks-vans-minivans-vans-2001-Isuzu-Rodeo-W0QQAdIdZ167883604

ALL ISUZU RODEO'S ARE LEMONS!!! If you MUST get an Isuzu, get a trooper. My dad's been driving a '94 that he got from the dealership when new.

[bourge73]

Jeep Cherokee 4.0 sport all the way man. I am havin a blast in this. The things are damn near bulletproof, cheap to buy and maintain and are very reliable. Just IMO but lots of choices out there but under 5gs. Jeep all the way.

[ExtraSlow]

If your budget is $5000, I agree with bituerbo that you need to buy $1000 worth of tires.
And any rig that's $4000, is gong to questionable reliability. If you want a 4-runner, it's going to be beat to shit. The explorer will be maybe a couple years newer.

Buy a beater, buy it good tires, and accept the fact that you are driving a winter beater that is not reliable. It's pretty liberating once you start calling your daily driver a beater, you'll let go of worrying about scrapes, dents and chips. Then one day, you'll be wondering if you can use you old oil from your summer car in the beater. :devil: You won't do it, but you'll think about it, and that'a a beautiful thing . . .

Shit, that got a little off topic. You can go back to the thread now. I think I need a cold shower . . . .

[Impreza]

How about something like a Jeep TJ? How are Jeep TJ's in the winter?

[r3ccOs]

No Brainer Decision to me is a 4.0L Cherokee (pref late 90s as they fixed some cooling system issues)

Get a one with manual everything and try to find w/ low k. The late 90's came in galvanize steel, so they should be limited to rust.

They have strong solid front & rear axels with Dana 20/35 diffs
Strong transfer case
Longer in wheelbase than TJ or Trackers
Great weight distribution, better than trucks
Alot of usable space
Bulletproof 4.0L engine and overall drivetrain

They are very reliable, and cheaper to fix than a 4runner, of which is doubtful you'll find in good shape for less than 5K.

I really like the 4runner, its terrific w/ its superstrong asiin axels, but its 3.0L engine is anemic in comparison...

TJs & Trackers are too short wheelbase for effortless ice/snow highway driving... Even the LWB tracker, its just too light
they are incredibly manueverable offroad and in slow speed bad driving conditions (they'll fit anywhere and will articulate)
But, just too hairy IMO to drive on the deerfoot in blackice conditions

I'm contemplaiting buying one for a project...
I own a newer tracker w/ 32" mudders, which gives me tons of tracktion in deep snow, but its so light, it gets tossed around in deep ruts at speed.

[AndyL]

Stay away from ANY of the SWB (ie CJ/TJ/YJ/??) jeeps in the winter... Heater sucks, hard top (if it has one) doesn't have much to keep ya warm...

Short wheelbase and ice are a bad combination... Just ask the guy in the wrangler on glenmore today who managed to climb the concrete barricades...

2000 alone will buy you a decent 4runner - yeah probably rusty wheelwells but they all rust...As long as you dont buy one that's overly offroaded you should be just fine for reliability... 4runners are probably toyotas best product besides the landcruisers...

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Looking at a 1997 Jeep Cherokee tomorrow. Fits the bill perfectly. If that doesnt work out, my mom said she will up the budget to $7000-8000 not including winter tires and rims.

Any common problems to look for in the Cherokee?

[corsvette]

+1 for the jeep's (yj,tj)being rotten winter rides,the new ones are probably much better,but the old yj's are downright COLD and miserable,you would hate one in -20.The 4.0l is one tough engine,so Jeep suv's are a good bet as well.
I wonder if the price of the older 4x4 suv's may spike a bit in light of the recent storms,it took me a long time last winter to sell my Pathfinder which was in premium shape (95 with 150,000 kms)I let it go before we had any real snowfalls,took alot less for it because there did not seem to be much interest in it.

[Aleks]

Originally posted by kevie88
How about none of them? There are plenty of AWD cars that are better in all conditions than SUV's. Maybe an Outback or an Allroad Audi?

Does she want to go offroad regularly? If not, I can't see any reason why an SUV is better than an AWD car.

Our Forester is way better in these conditions than our WRX just because of extra ground clearance. WRX hasn't been stuck but then again we didn't get the crazy 10' drifts in our neighbourhood like the rest of the city seems to have got. :dunno:

[r3ccOs]

Toyota's vs Jeep is always going to an argument for the years...

The Landcruiser all the way from the FJ40 were overbuilt (good thing), capable and dependant.

That being said, there was always a shortcoming: underpowered gas engines for the gas markets

In fact, its probably only NA that would even buy a Gas landcruiser...
Though Diesel has been their offering since day one, we unfortunately got left behind in the dark ages.

That's not what were looking for, for under 5K... that leaves you with the Toyota 4runner in either the 1st or 2nd Gen

To me, with both series, the engine was underpowered. The 1st was a rust machine, but did have a very capable drivetrain and a weird removable roof feature :D
The 22RE IMO even the TRE is underpowered, though reliable has known headgasket issues.

The 2nd, is much more utilitarian, but again its 3.0L 170hp engine just doesn't cut it for me... Its probably that I like putting on larger tires, and hate changing transfer case gears. (r&p is easy though)

The Jeep on the other hand, thanks to depreciation, can be had for an affordable price for a late model XJ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Cherokee_(XJ))
Though the engine is 4.0L 190hp output, it has plenty of torque and is sized appropiately.
With a gentle foot, it can be driven with relatively decent fuel economy..
Strong drive train as well, with Dana 30/35 f/r axels
I'd suggest finding again, a "base" model 4.0L w/ manual everything in a late model... cheap to maintain and should be relatively rust free

[picmerollin]

Nissan pathfinder.

I will always have a nissan suv as long as I live in this part of the world. They are less expensive than toyota's and if you find one that has been maintained they are very very reliable.

Many are bagged out or rusted but if you find a clean one with the underbody (not rusted out) still in tact or an original owner you should jump on it. You may even be able to get an early year infinity qx4, those are generally in better shape and usually are dealer maintained and garage kept- this may cost a little more than 5g's but may be worth it for the heated seats and climate control that the infiniti version would be outfitted with.

[r3ccOs]

Originally posted by picmerollin
Nissan pathfinder.

I will always have a nissan suv as long as I live in this part of the world. They are less expensive than toyota's and if you find one that has been maintained they are very very reliable.

Many are bagged out or rusted but if you find a clean one with the underbody (not rusted out) still in tact or an original owner you should jump on it. You may even be able to get an early year infinity qx4, those are generally in better shape and usually are dealer maintained and garage kept- this may cost a little more than 5g's but may be worth it for the heated seats and climate control that the infiniti version would be outfitted with.

Though the pathfinder hardbodies are reliable.. they much like Gen1 Tacomas/4runners are rust buckets.
Their drivetrain overall is solid, but I'd say that their balljoint issues would sway me away from purchasing one.

[forbiddenera]

Toyota FTW!

[r3ccOs]

Originally posted by forbiddenera
Toyota FTW!

nah...
Yota
FJ40
JDM Landcruisers FZJ81 Diesel

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Well I took a look at the 1998 Jeep Cherokee today.

Things I liked:

Had recent maintence done
Body was in fairly decent condition
Had a roof rack with bike attachments
Had a brush bar
4WD
Manual
Had some off-road lights front and rear that worked
All the control and electricals worked
Heater was good
Comes with stock wheels with Nokians on them, as well as Pro Comp off-road wheels
No visible leaks, oil, powersteering fluid, coolant were good
Started right up even in -20
3" lift

Things I didnt like:

Exhaust leak
Rust bubble on right rear quarter panel, however couldnt find any evidence of repair
Wiring for lights comes out of windshield makes me wonder if there are leaks there, had tuck tape holding the windshield seal in place in two places
Worried the lift has caused accelerated wear on the balljoints
May need two front shocks
Some door dings, however paint was overall in good condition

Im going back to test drive it and do a compression test tomorrow hopefully.

[Sugarphreak]

....

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Nah its a 2 dr Black one. I dont think the transfer case was dropped, but we will see tomorrow.

[forbiddenera]

Originally posted by r3ccOs


nah...
Yota
FJ40
JDM Landcruisers FZJ81 Diesel

Both are very nice but I have 1st runner and it's pretty awesome, more what you can do with them because of what's available in the community than anything, besides the reliabilty of toyota.

[FraserB]

I can't see him needing a TC drop at only 3", is he still running the stock driveshafts? CV or DC driveshaft?

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Yeah, a 3" on a long wheelbase Jeep normally wouldn't need a TC drop.

For 5000, you might be able to get a 99/00 WJ Grand Cherokee if you look hard enough.

[Tik-Tok]

Originally posted by kevie88
How about none of them? There are plenty of AWD cars that are better in all conditions than SUV's. Maybe an Outback or an Allroad Audi?


Outbacks and Allroads /= less then $5000.

You can get a late 90's Impreza, Impreza OBS, or Legacy for that much though.

[Sugarphreak]

...

[bourge73]

how much? and how many K's was that black one. ?

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Approx 203000km, and hes asking $4500 but im going to offer less.

[bourge73]

Id say 4000 grand should be about right for it (altho if you can get it cheaper all the better) , although in this weather he is really holding all the cards anything 4x4 , AWD are so easy to sell.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

It hasnt sold in two weeks. I will see what it drives like and determine what it needs, and point that out when making an offer.

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Originally posted by Sugarphreak


CV? XJ's are solid axles, no IFS.



Yes, and despite that I can go take pictures of the CV joints on the front of my ZJ if you'd like. ;) It's got a solid D30 just like the XJ (although LP instead of HP) Solid axles and CV joints are not mutually exclusive, as they can be used interchangeably with U-joints on the steering axles.

Besides, he was asking about the drive shaft joints. :poosie:

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Is it fairly easy to do a transfer case drop? Approx how much do you think it will cost for new u-joints, new ball joints, and two new front shocks?

[Sugarphreak]

....

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

I could probably make my on spacers and bolt them on. I kinda found a how to on google..

[Sugarphreak]

....

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Yeah. Im going to test drive it later so will make sure to check for u-joint issues. I also need to check the tie-rods and ball joints.

[Kloubek]

I totally disagree with the hate for TJ's in the winter. Yes, YJ's had lacking heaters. And yes, the wheelbase is really short - which means you need to pay attention to any kind of fishtailing when stopping.

But those things aside, I absolutely LOVED my TJ in the winter. It was a truly awesome go-anywhere vehicle.

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Originally posted by Sugarphreak

Ok, I have no idea what you are trying to get at here... I have been talking about the drive shaft all along.

Why would having a solid axle and a CV drive shaft joint be mutually exclusive?

http://inlinethumb49.webshots.com/44400/2097918850057443695S500x500Q85.jpg

CV shaft out of the TC, solid front D30, same as the XJ.

[Sugarphreak]

....

[SNAATCH]

Not going to bother looking if it's already posted but the Honda CRV and Toyota Rav4 have some of the highest user ratings out there. Great on gas and very reliable.

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Originally posted by Sugarphreak


I don't know how to make this any more clear unless you are intentionally trying to muddy the water with terminology. Also your photo was blocked at my office for some reason.

Generally speaking people refer to IFS joints as "CV Joints” (or constant velocity joints), they are typically a spline w/bearings cased inside of a housing. While technically the term could apply to the driveline joints between the transfer case and differential most people I know refer to them as U-Joints… or “Universal Joints”.

With an IFS lift you would have a change in the angle of the driveline from the differential to the wheel, while with a solid axle lift you are instead changing the angle between the transfer case to the differential. So, being that the XJ has a solid axle... this is not an issue.

I don't see how correctly identifying the different joint designs is "muddying the water." A U-joint is quite different than a CV joint, which is again different from a Double-Cardan joint. All three joint designs can be used interchangeably in any situation, although I have to admit I've never seen a double-cardan used as an axle joint, probably because they're quite large.

So, no, there is no such thing as an "IFS" joint. The distinction is in the design, not the application. Your problem here is that you don't seem to realize that the CV, U, and DC joints can ALL be used in a solid-axle driveline interchangeably. The picture I posted was of a CV joint on a solid-axle driveline. My ZJ has both Double Cardan and U-joints on its driveline, and some versions came with CV drivelines. Furthermore, its front axles can be either CV or U-joint designs interchangeably.

Hence, your assertion that FraserB's post regarding checking CV's on drivelines was somehow inaccurate, is wrong. His recommendation to check the condition of the CV or DC on the shafts was perfectly reasonable and sensible. A suspension lift with a solid-axle CV driveline can put added stress on the CV due to the increased angle, hence why checking it would be a prudent thing to do.

This is a Universal (U) joint (Plymouth Barracuda):
http://www.earlycuda.org/images/Tech/Ujoint/UjF04.jpg

This is a Double Cardan joint (Jeep Wrangler):
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/data/articlestandard/jeep/412007/464999/tomwood_10.jpg

This is a Constant Velocity (CV) joint (Jeep Wrangler):
http://image.4wdandsportutility.com/f/9085205/0702_4wd_07_z+driveshaft_basics+rzeppa_cv_joint.jpg

All of these are on solid-axle drivelines.

[Sugarphreak]

...

[BerserkerCatSplat]

You're quite welcome. However, some XJ's absolutely did come with the GKN-style CV shaft, although I seem to remember it being the earlier models - could be wrong about when they were made, though. Anyway, XJ's came with either GKN CV or Double Cardan driveshafts depending on the year. A double-ended front U-joint driveshaft would be extremely limiting, so they have a single U-joint on the diff end and a CV/DC joint on the other.

[r3ccOs]

Just to clarify you're talking about CV/Ujoints between the transfer case to the front Axle.

This is not the front axles shafts themselves, as it is a solid front axle and not IFS.

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Yes, we are discussing the front driveshaft between TC and diff.

Again, though, you can have a solid front axle and CV axle shafts. The factory axle shafts on my D30 are CV's. It's very common to swap D30 CV's for the stronger U-joint axles. Here's a picture of both available axle shafts for the D30:

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/weak_link/oldnew.JPG

[Sugarphreak]

...

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Originally posted by Sugarphreak
Well technically a Double Cardan is still a type of universal joint, but I will let it be ;)


I can totally agree with that, It's pretty much just two U-joints glued together, haha. Its full name (according to P4x4) is a "near constant velocity, double-cardan-style universal joint shaft", so you can see why it gets labeled as both a U-joint and a CV joint at times.

Everything you never wanted to know about joints. (http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index.html)

[ExtraSlow]

You jerks just made me learn some automotive info. Bah! That's not what beyond is about.

Anyway thanks for the CV/Universal Joint tutorial.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Found some more issues when I test drove the jeep.

Front diff is leaking
Exhaust is leaking
Tires are shot
Probably needs a windshield.

[Sugarphreak]

....

[bourge73]

then its too much money. And thats enough about the CV joints for the love of Christmas and all thats holy

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

If I was to make an offer, what should I offer, keeping in mind it comes with 5 extra pro comp wheels?

Does anyone have approx prices for a diff-rebuild kit, windshield?

[Tik-Tok]

Originally posted by Twin_Cam_Turbo

Does anyone have approx prices for a diff-rebuild kit, windshield?

Windshield is probably $250 +or-, leak could just be from a axle shaft seal. That would be a pretty cheap fix (hour labour, $15 part, more oil), exhaust is probably $120 fix as well.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Diff I will do myself. I may be able to do the exhaust myself depending on how bad it is. Hopefully its just an axle seal but its likely the whole thing needs a re-build too because it looks like its leaking pretty bad.

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Lots to be had in the larger Jeep department for under 5 grand.

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-SUVs-trucks-vans-SUV-crossover-2000-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-W0QQAdIdZ173324946

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-SUVs-trucks-vans-SUV-crossover-1999-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-limited-W0QQAdIdZ173159263

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-SUVs-trucks-vans-SUV-crossover-2000-Jeep-Cherokee-W0QQAdIdZ164222654

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-SUVs-trucks-vans-SUV-crossover-2000-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-W0QQAdIdZ166695021

[r3ccOs]

Originally posted by BerserkerCatSplat
Lots to be had in the larger Jeep department for under 5 grand.

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-SUVs-trucks-vans-SUV-crossover-2000-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-W0QQAdIdZ173324946

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-SUVs-trucks-vans-SUV-crossover-1999-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-limited-W0QQAdIdZ173159263

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-SUVs-trucks-vans-SUV-crossover-2000-Jeep-Cherokee-W0QQAdIdZ164222654

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-SUVs-trucks-vans-SUV-crossover-2000-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-W0QQAdIdZ166695021

why buy a ZJ?
The command track awd system IMO isn't the most reliable transfercase... My buddy had issues with the cuplinks several times... He did drive his 5.9 pretty hard though

Personally the XJ's will do... again for 5g's you should be able to get a XJ running tip top with good rubber.

[bourge73]

Id go for $3000 see if he bits. Maybe to 3500.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Thinking of offering $3300.

I can get 4 winter tires here for $420 USD which isnt bad.

$150 for the exhaust, $300 for windshield, $500 for diff service, plus $300 buyers fee.

Total: ~$4700

[FraserB]

Originally posted by r3ccOs


why buy a ZJ?
The command track awd system IMO isn't the most reliable transfercase... My buddy had issues with the cuplinks several times... He did drive his 5.9 pretty hard though

Personally the XJ's will do... again for 5g's you should be able to get a XJ running tip top with good rubber.

The 5.9 had an NP249 Tcase in it, "QuadraTrac" with 4HI-N-4LO, the viscous coupler in these does have a tendency to take a dump at the higher mileages. The Jeeps in the ads are WJ's produced from 1999-2004, they feature New Venture transfer cases that use a progressive coupler. If the PC fails, it fails in the "open" position, not in the "closed" position like the NP249 did.

One or two of the ones posted might be worth looking at in person. You cant go wrong with the amount of power that the 4.7L V8 puts out wither.

[FraserB]

Originally posted by Twin_Cam_Turbo
Thinking of offering $3300.

I can get 4 winter tires here for $420 USD which isnt bad.

$150 for the exhaust, $300 for windshield, $500 for diff service, plus $300 buyers fee.

Total: ~$4700

Where is the front diff leaking from? The pinion seals like to leak after a while, its a ~$15 seal, some gear oil and 2 hours if you have never done it yourself.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Its leaking from the pinion. Probably is a seal, but im planning for the worst, and guessing a re-build kit is around $500.

I am an automotive student at SAIT, so I have some expeirience with diffs, shouldnt take too long.

[FraserB]

Originally posted by Twin_Cam_Turbo
Its leaking from the yoke. Probably is a seal, but im planning for the worst, and guessing a re-build kit is around $500.

I am an automotive student at SAIT, so I have some expeirience with diffs, shouldnt take too long.

Yup, pinion seal. The gears should still be fine, you just need to check the level of fluid in there. Gear oil should start to seep out as soon as the fill plug is pulled out.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Just as I thought. I couldnt hear any noise on accell or decel when driving so I think it just needs a seal and a top up.

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Originally posted by r3ccOs


why buy a ZJ?
The command track awd system IMO isn't the most reliable transfercase... My buddy had issues with the cuplinks several times... He did drive his 5.9 pretty hard though


None of the Jeeps I posted were ZJs. :dunno: The WJ's drivetrain has very little in common with the ZJ, no 5.2 or 5.9 and no 249. Nothing wrong with the 247 TC.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

My mom decided to put an offer in on it.

I guess we will see what they say.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Offer of $3450 accpeted.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Heres a pic if anyone is interested.

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg116/ski1jump/Jeep.jpg

[bourge73]

nice buy man. Thats nice. This is he first winter for me with a 4x4 Jeep (97 Cherokee) and couldnt be happier with it. :burnout:

[ExtraSlow]

Good buy!
I've noticed that 2 door Cherokees and explorers sell for significantly less than thier 4 door counterparts, despite being the same mechanicals. i guess it's people with babies like me that drive demand for used 4 door SUVs.

The bonus with the one you just bought is that it's not too tough to turn it into a decent trail rig is you so desire later.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Yup, its a lot better in anything other than packed snow and dry road than any of our cars. I need to paint that rusty brush bar, and fix the leaky diff soon though.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

The 4 doors are more desirable apparently. Im fine with 2 door, its still heaps more practical than any of the other cars we have. We have 5 vehicles now, and they are all 2 doors.

[dirtsniffer]

i have a 2000 jimmy slt.. has everything except a sunroof. lots of recent work. pm me if you have any questions op

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Originally posted by dirtsniffer
i have a 2000 jimmy slt.. has everything except a sunroof. lots of recent work. pm me if you have any questions op

Sorry, I already bought a truck as shown above.

[bourge73]

ahhh waaaa? Anyways I have a 4 door same as the other guy cause of the family/kids thing and its a 4th vehicle for me (BTW I am jealous of the 5 vehicle count, I think I would have to drug the wife for that ) . The 2 doors seem to be a little cheaper but there really doesnt seem to be a big penalty for it, and they sell just as quick in this shiat weather anyways :)

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Yeah 5 cars isnt that big a deal for us. We have the Jeep for everyone, I have a little sporty car, my mom has a little sporty car, my dad has two convertibles, but only one is driveble right now.

[Diocletian]

Originally posted by Twin_Cam_Turbo
Yeah 5 cars isnt that big a deal for us. We have the Jeep for everyone, I have a little sporty car, my mom has a little sporty car, my dad has two convertibles, but only one is driveble right now.

Wow you guys sound like you're pretty wise with money

[Alak]

Guy I work with has a 97 2 door. Hes had it since it was brand new off the lot. No known issues in its lifetime. Rear suspension sags a bit, but he says thats common.

Or hes just lying so he doesnt look like he doesnt take care of his truck haha.

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Originally posted by Diocletian


Wow you guys sound like you're pretty wise with money

More like we just spend everything on our cars lol.