battery relocation

[Chantastic]

hey guys,

I am looking into some relocation kits for a fmic install. So far the only thing I can seem to find online is the summit racing kit, which goes for $85USD on summits website, and frsport has a summit kit as well though it looks a little different, for $180.

Summit website:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1199/

frsport:

http://www.frsport.com/SR-Premium-Battery-Relocation-Kit_p_14397.html

first off, what is the difference between the two? Will both fit say, a regular battery? the frsport kit says it will fit most batteries, including an optima...but I want to run the battery I currently have, which is a standard full size one, no fancy dry cell stuff.

Opinions? Thanks.

[Chantastic]

Sorry one more thing. Anyone have a ssqv for sale? Ideally, already mounted on a S13 SR20 hotpipe (or a S13 pipe turned to fit into a S14 SR in a S13 chasis)

[sr20s14zenki]

Taylor makes a kit that holds full size battery. Mopac sells them.

[Chantastic]

Sweet. Had a peek online...seems they retail for around 160. Why is that one on summit so cheap compared to everything else?

[sr20s14zenki]

Good question....not sure.

[lellowrx7]

Could just do what I did and buy a deep cell bike battery
Gotta throw some screws in the terminals to hold them tight but it works and sits fine beside the uicp

[tomt64]

I hope you bought the S14 SR fmic kit or you are going to have a nice time fitting the cold side.

[Tram Common]

Originally posted by tomt64
I hope you bought the S14 SR fmic kit or you are going to have a nice time fitting the cold side.

Haha, true. I made that mistake awhile back.

I would honestly just get the cheaper kit. The FR Sport one looks like it has a bunch of unnecessary crap in it anyways and neither of them come with a junction box for the front anyways.

... plus, if you have tinted rear windows, who's going to ever see it anyways.

[Chantastic]

lol @ tint comment

And yes, I ordered the S14 kit. Still debating whether I keep my S13 hotpipe/bov set up or ditch it and get a ssqv. Either way I'll sell the hotpipe/bov this kit comes with.

Edit: I keep seeing this broken down 180 by my house...one light is stuck up, bumper damage ect...anyways I looked in his interior and saw the battery in the back seat, loose. Yikes. I wonder if that's why it doesn't run, I wouldn't be surprised.

[Chantastic]

I just measured my battery and the summit (website summit one) has lots of extra space inside... does it get tied down inside too, or just around the case? It says the box is 15 x 9 x 10'', and my battery is alot smaller than that and I don't want it jumping around.

And hang on. You can sneak the cables and stuff under the rear seat and still put everything back in after, right? I don't have to gut my seats permanently? I imagine it can easily be installed behind the rear strut tower, out of the way of the seats, yea?

[Tram Common]

Originally posted by Chantastic
I just measured my battery and the summit (website summit one) has lots of extra space inside... does it get tied down inside too, or just around the case? It says the box is 15 x 9 x 10'', and my battery is alot smaller than that and I don't want it jumping around.

And hang on. You can sneak the cables and stuff under the rear seat and still put everything back in after, right? I don't have to gut my seats permanently? I imagine it can easily be installed behind the rear strut tower, out of the way of the seats, yea?

All the wiring can be tucked under the carpet and then under the rear seats... you won't have to remove anything.

If you're running speaker wires though I highly suggest you separate them from the power wire, ie run the power wire along the passenger side and the speaker wires down the center or the driver side.

If you don't you'll have some mad interference continuously playing through your speakers.

Also, my battery isn't tied down in my rear, it isn't even in a sealed box... half the "sealed" boxes I see in cars aren't even sealed.

Just get a dry cell, secure it and call it a day.

[sr20s14zenki]

The taylor kit has a tie down in it, lots of extra room, a vent for the hydrogen from the battery, etc. Pretty quality kit.

Usually when you do a relocation you run the wire under the car, and use the straps that it comes with to secure it to the body.....i guess you could run the wire in the car....

[Tram Common]

Originally posted by sr20s14zenki
The taylor kit has a tie down in it, lots of extra room, a vent for the hydrogen from the battery, etc. Pretty quality kit.

Usually when you do a relocation you run the wire under the car, and use the straps that it comes with to secure it to the body.....i guess you could run the wire in the car....

Really? I've never seen a battery relocation with the main wire ran outside of the cabin.

[Sil80_D]

Mine runs outside. :dunno:

[Tram Common]

Originally posted by Sil80_D
Mine runs outside. :dunno:

... but... why? :nut:

[sr20s14zenki]

Easier to run the cable to the starter and alternator... Especially if you run a kill switch. The kits come with self tapping screws and brackets specifically for mounting under car. Apparently that cheap summit kit sucks balls.

[RZRSHARP_SVX]

I have the taylor kit in my car and it went easily and I ran the cable inside the car. I also have the kill switch too. and for most racing you are required to have a alluminum box.

I have a hks ssqv if you need one.

[Tram Common]

Originally posted by sr20s14zenki
Easier to run the cable to the starter and alternator... Especially if you run a kill switch. The kits come with self tapping screws and brackets specifically for mounting under car. Apparently that cheap summit kit sucks balls.

Seems odd... I guess it makes sense but I mean... it just seems unnecessary to me.

Oh well, to each their own.

[sr20s14zenki]

The way i see it, where would you rather the wire got hot in the event of a short (which can be very likely on all the twists and turns of running it thru an interior). I would rather it burn metal on metal under the car, than under my carpet where a fire could start. The way i see it, when you install nitrous....do you run the line to your tank INSIDE the car? That would be kind of silly in the event of a leak. Same thing..

[Tram Common]

Originally posted by sr20s14zenki
The way i see it, where would you rather the wire got hot in the event of a short (which can be very likely on all the twists and turns of running it thru an interior). I would rather it burn metal on metal under the car, than under my carpet where a fire could start. The way i see it, when you install nitrous....do you run the line to your tank INSIDE the car? That would be kind of silly in the event of a leak. Same thing..

Haha, well, I guess all the electrical lines should have been run under the car then. What was Nissan thinking!? :rofl: ;)

[sr20s14zenki]

All of the electrical inside the car is fused and relayed relatively low current wiring unlikely to overheat or burn. You are talking about an unfused 2 Gauge higher current line. The chances are greater for a fire or overheat. That's just IMO. Either is good because the event of a short is unlikely either way.

[Tram Common]

Originally posted by sr20s14zenki
All of the electrical inside the car is fused and relayed relatively low current wiring unlikely to overheat or burn. You are talking about an unfused 2 Gauge higher current line. The chances are greater for a fire or overheat. That's just IMO. Either is good because the event of a short is unlikely either way.

Man, I'm just messing with you... I ran mine inside because I didn't know any better. I think I'd still run it inside though anyways... personal choice.

[Chantastic]

lol, already ordered the summit one since it was cheaper even with shipping then the average price of a taylor. I am gonna have Garage Box install it along with a fmic and manual boost controller when it all gets in. I'd do it myself but I don't know much about wiring, and I don't have the tools to modify any piping for the fmic to fit.

If I ever get an S13 in the future again, I'll probably just opt for a redtop SR instead. So much less hassle.

[TRD_jordan]

why garage box jeff? you should just bring it to evan and the guys at RPS!

Tanner and evan really know there stuff!

[sr20s14zenki]

Either is a fine choice Jordan ;)

[Chantastic]

You guys are open already? I actually had no idea haha, congrats! I'll do GB since I already told them I'd be bringing it in. Manual boost controller and summit kit came in today. It looks like a giant tackle box.

Also, I am still looking for an ssqv! And on another note, I have a friend selling some Megan Racing S13 lowering springs, if anyone is interested lemme know

[sr20s14zenki]

Originally posted by Chantastic
You guys are open already? I actually had no idea haha, congrats! I'll do GB since I already told them I'd be bringing it in. Manual boost controller and summit kit came in today. It looks like a giant tackle box.

Also, I am still looking for an ssqv! And on another note, I have a friend selling some Megan Racing S13 lowering springs, if anyone is interested lemme know


Sounds good man, they are competent. I however dont think you will be happy with a MBC, but give it a try. My problem with them is that they never work right. They spike usually, and im just not comfortable with that.

i just installed a boost T into my friend's stock sr20, and the best i could get as far as boost, is to get a spike to 14 psi, and drop to holding 10. Thats quite a bit of spike. Just not good.

a good EBC is worth every penny.

[TRD_jordan]

Originally posted by sr20s14zenki
Either is a fine choice Jordan ;)

LOL i gotta support you evan! LOL! I mention you to everyone i know that needs their car worked on!

You and Tanner are the best, always know what your talking about and always do good work!
:thumbsup: RPS all the way!

[Chantastic]

Still waiting on the fmic. Quick question. I have a bings hotpipe, and I emailed the bings rep, and asked what the diameter of the pipe was, and he said they need a 2.5'' coupler. The reason I asked is because if I can find a cheap ssqv I would love to switch it out for my greddy. My hotpipe had to be cut and turned to make it fit the stock smic, so this means if I wanted to, I could just take the center section of the hotpipe out with the greddy on it and throw in a new 2.5'' pipe with an ssqv on it, right? This is what 'needs a 2.5'' coupler' means?

This is what I mean, replace the center section of my cut up hotpipe with this: http://cgi.ebay.ca/2-5-TURBO-Aluminum-FLANGE-PIPE-D16-HKS-SSQV-SQV-BOV-/120672068424?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c189da348

And as far as the manual boost controller goes, I am doing everything as cheap as possible to be totally honest. Car will be stored this winter and I wanna have my fun with it before that time comes...and then I might sell it come next summer. We'll see.

[sr20s14zenki]

Yah that pipe idea will work fine Youll just have more couplers in the mix. Would be a good idea to have a few beads welded at the end of the pipe you cut to keep it from blowing off.

IMO the last things you want to be cheap with is boost controllers, fuel pumps, and engine management....but that's just me.

[Chantastic]

Cool thanks man, I will probably order that pipe in if I can find a ssqv. I haven't bothered with any engine management and I doubt I will...like I said I just wanna have some cheap fun with it before I store/potentially sell it. I'll let you know how the manual boost goes haha

[Chantastic]

For those of you wondering about the summit kit, here it is. Tram and Abeo have scene it in person, and I'm sure they can back me up on the fact that it is HUGE.

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k437/b000stin/DSC_9829.jpg

[Chantastic]

Update: I tried a ATP manual boost controller from FRSport, and it didn't do shit all. Turned it all the way to the right, and then all the way to the left, and it was stuck at 7 psi. Had abeo and some others look at it to determine it was messed up for some reason. Contacted FRSport and after a few emails I finally managed to get them to send me a return form but it was up to the manufacturer (ATP) to send me a refund or a new unit. I didn't want to just unplug it and send it back without replacing it immediately. Picked up a turbosmart 'boost tee' from mopac, and all is golden. 12psi no problems, easy adjustment, and it looks way cooler then the ATP. haha. Awaiting a check in the mail from ATP.