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View Full Version : sr to ca swap help!



Scope951
09-26-2011, 05:28 PM
Picked up a stupid cheap ca to replace my blown SR.
This is my first motor swap and I figured it should be simple enough to do but I am wrong haha.

the Ca came with the full harness, I am hoping that I could keep my interior harness and just plug and play the headlight and main motor harness, will this work?

Powering steering pump. I have a power steering pump and tensioner but a CA bracket, with these work?

lastly I need the vacuum diagram for the CA.

there is a ton more vac nipples than the sr20det and have no clue for over 50% of them.

Any help is appreciated! If someone would even want to spend time on a weekend to help me sort the last of this mess I have enough beer AND pizza to last you!

I need someone with CA wiring/swap knowledge to help make this experience a positive one.

sr20s14zenki
09-26-2011, 07:45 PM
Ca18det will bolt right in, no modification. You use the ca18det power steering pump, your lines and resevoir will work fine. As for the wiring, it will work, altho there may be a few mods. I cant remember weather the ca18det relay plugs will plug into the sr plugs ( by your battery, should be 3 plugs, two grey, one red). If not, its very simple to rewire and is just color matching. The interior plug for your dash and what not, should also plug in, but if not, again its just simple colour matching. Driveshaft will work, basically everything will work. As for the vacuum, i would eliminate the charcoal cannister, and just run simple vacuum. You will need one vac to the FPR, which should already be hooked up on the back. you will also need boost pressure to the wastegate. Much easier to run simple vacuum like i said haha, most people eliminate all of that shit on the ca18det anyways, they are a mess from stock.

hope that helped.

By the way, when you pull the sr20, you pull the engine harness only, you dont need to remove a ton of wiring from the car. There will be a plug up behind your glove box,thats the dash wiring. unplug that, and then undo from the ecu. That should be it for interior wiring.

next, unplug all the wiring by the battery. There will be the 3 plugs i mentioned, thats the engine side. You will also unplug and remove the ignitor box, and all misc plugs like the MAF, boost control solenoid, ETc...

after that, the lower harness that goes to the tranny can be unplugged just follow the wires, youll see.

the rest is pretty self explanitory.


Oh, edit, haha. If you want your downpipe to work, you need to use the sr20det o2 housing on your ca18det turbo. Either that, or youll need a ca18det downpipe. The sr20 downpipe doesnt work properly on a ca18det o2 housing, or vice versa.

Cooked Rice
09-27-2011, 01:34 AM
Hey Mike is this still the JDM S13? Do you have the CA18 in there yet? I can help you do the wiring, it's pretty straight forward other than a wire for the knock sensor has to be "added"

Scope951
09-27-2011, 03:19 PM
Hey ray, yes it is a Jdm s13. Motor is in and for the most part wired up except for what is listed. If I still have your number I'll be sure to take you up on that offer!

Scope951
09-29-2011, 11:50 AM
The only thing left at this point is the misc sensor(knock?) above theinjectors and the pwr steering pump.


Any clarification on these 2 items?

Thanks!

sr20s14zenki
09-29-2011, 12:34 PM
You use the ca18det power steering pump, should work just fine. as for the injectors, if you used the ca18det engine harness, everything should be fine.

The knock sensor is just a simple one wire sensor, located under the intake manifold. You run a wire from that thru the harness straight to the ecu. Get a pinout of the ecu and put it to that pin.

Cooked Rice
09-29-2011, 01:48 PM
Wire from the ECU for the knock sensor on the CA harness runs to one of the three plugs that go down by the battery. Add your own wire from the knock sensor to the wire down by the battery. I highly suggest you use shielded wire for it. It's gonna be in one of the white plugs, knock sensor wire is WHITE and the grounded shielding wire IIRC is gonna be gray. You can also double check by cutting the loom/tape off the wire bundle and locating the wire which is shielded.

Scope951
09-29-2011, 05:59 PM
Appreciate the help but I spoke too soon. I am using mostly sr parts to make this happen.

Driveshaft is too short, nearly a inch of the spline is showing where the driveshaft mates with the tranny(lol). Another issue is that I cannot get the driveshaft to spin(brake off and neutral).

Am I missing something? Hopefully I can get someone to come take a look to better understand what I am saying. Ca should be super simple to swap so I am a bit dumbfounded at how many hiccups I have ran into.

Thanks in advance!

sr20s14zenki
09-29-2011, 06:14 PM
Usually an inch of the shiny part of the driveshaft shows, thats normal. There are only two driveshafts that are possible, ABS, and NON ABS. If you are using an ABS equipped rear end, it is best to have an ABS specific driveshaft. If you are non abs, its best to have non abs driveshaft. Also, you did remove the dust shield on the output end of the tranny correct?

Cooked Rice
09-30-2011, 01:13 AM
With rear wheels off the ground, ebrake off, and tranny in neutral, you should be able to rotate the DS freely... Or get a friend to hold one wheel stationary and go try and turn the other one, the DS should spin.