So it begins... Wife's DD stereo - Help!

[AndyL]

Ok,

Lets explain it this way... My wife likes deep underground house (has a penchant for DJ rice (not beyond's) - you may have heard of sunday skool ... it's a 18yr franchise here in calgary). She may have a problem with keeping the volume down...

In the past 3 years - I've bought more than two dozen full sets of speakers... Because I can't stand that tinny blown speaker sound...

Hopped in her 4runner for a "whats the noise" test drive... the tweets, the mids, the 2 ways, and the 3way 6x9's are toast... The noise was one of the coils from one of those xplod 6x9's now rattling around in the side of the truck after detaching itself...

:banghead:

Let's start from scratch and make the woman happy...

Let's not kill the bank - i'd love to come in around a grand...

Here's my wish list - now I have no F*ing clue audio - i listen to am radio FFS... so point me in a direction :)

double din head - Bluetooth for the cell phone, some internal memory would be nice (she carries 6 binders of CDs FFS). not much point in any other toys... christ I don't think she'd even use the radio tuner :)

Front speakers 6 3/4" component - really need a good tweeter on these, she always kills the tweeters...

rears - 5 1/4's (probably gonna forget to connect those butchered in 6x9's)

Probably need to add some significant bass... Pair of 10's? 12s? Suppose this means significant amp...

Anyone wanna build me a system? :) Because it's jibberish to me...

[firebane]

I can't really say what is good or what isn't good.. But what I can say is that the first step is to not buy Xplod stuff.. it literally lives up to its name.

Second important thing is called self control. No system in any vehicle is going to be able to take abuse. Listening in moderation at moderate levels is going to keep the system from destroying itself.

[Tarrantula]

First thing to do is buy all your speakers from BestBuy or Futureshop - Lots of people may say "But why Tarrant? Those places suck, and are horrible at everything!"

Well besides that, they actually offer one of the best warranties out there - if you blow a speaker under warranty.. YOU GET NEW ONES! Seriously. There is no way for them to repair speakers so its a replacement item. The warranty is decently cheap and you could probably get a few pairs free depending on how many times a year she blows them.

Secondly, I would invest in an amp. This may sound counter-intuitive, but the amp will clean up any bad music she is pumping to those speakers and keep them properly powered. Underpowered speakers usually blow before correctly powered speakers because they get a cleaner signal at higher volume, putting less stress on the drives.

Third - What to get? I would recommend alpine type R all around, they are decently cheap and POUND for in door speakers (lots of bass) plus they are available at bestbuy (warranty!) so that is also a plus.

That is all I have to add, feel free to pick apart my posts if there is any false information :)

EDIT: Used to work at BestBuy, thats how I know about the warranty. (Worked in car audio even)

[mr2mike]

Wow, she'll be deaf if she hasn't suffered significant hearing damage. Sadly, hearing damage doesn't cause any real physical pain when the damage is occurring.

Onto your setup. I know someone will know of a good deck for you. I don't know these things anymore with not having bought one for a number of years.

I concur. Sony Xplode... sucks.

Get speakers with seperate tweeters. You'll want those pointed towards the ears. Also I think less chance of damaging them if they're away from the mid cones.

A pair of 12's I think is going to overkill the bass and make it unbalanced. That being said, I do have 2 older 12" rockford power subs and I'd be willing to part with one of them for pretty cheap. They've been sitting around and moved with me for over 10 years but they're good and barely broken in. No box however.

Amp, you decide if you want to run all the speakers off it or just the sub.
If you go 4 channel amp. You could do fronts (with the 6 1/4's) and forget the rear speakers. Then run the sub or subs off the other 2 channels.

What vehicle? If it's a standard cab truck, you won't miss the back speakers.

Also to limit speaker damage. Setup the cross over very well! Don't have too much bass through those door speakers. Then you should be ok. I mean if you push the speaker to the max, day in and out, they will eventually break. Usually crack in the -30 winter.

[AndyL]

1998 4runner - factory system was the CD/tape indash with remote 10disc

[Ca_Silvia13]

Get an amp to power the speakers it makes a big difference with sounds quality and loudness.

[CanmoreOrLess]

Tinnitus, driving with a child in the car and a few tickets for distracted driving will cure her in the long run. Short of that, I'd go with the warranty for life option. Perhaps her CDs are recorded in a crap format or low quality kpbs? Does she have hearing issues? Honestly. I had a hearing test a while back, the tech said most adults have issues.

Options:

1. Enter a baby into the situation.

2. Lifetime warranty on the speakers.

Best I can offer.

[EK69]

agree with Tarrantula except try futureshop (i thought bestbuy got rid of their car stuff? :dunno: )

//edit
ok looking at the bestbuy website, apparently they still have some car audio stuff ... could have sworn they cleared car audio stuff out a while ago :nut:

but futureshop still seems to have more selection..

and unless im mistaken, they will have the same warranty

[sputnik]

Originally posted by AndyL
you may have heard of sunday skool

Brings me back to the free pour doubles and hazy shenanigans at the Night Gallery.

[AndyL]

Then you probably know my wife ;)

And no... Kids didn't slow the speed of speaker blows - the apprentice encourages her now... Yes there was a small reprieve - which coincided with more solo trips to blast ;)

[spike98]

First off (and as many others have mentioned) ditch the explode stuff!

For a grand, you will do it, but then you will do it again next year. And the next year. And the next year. You simply cannot install a full system within the constraints of a a $1000 budget. Nothing that will last anyways.

For my case, i will use a $2000 budget. That is more realistic (IMO)

Head Unit - Major brand here, this depends on the UI and how she likes it because at the price points, they all pretty much offer the same. Stick with Pioneer, Kenwood, or Alpine (and if the price is right JVC).Personally id go with pioneer as i have always liked their UI. Something like a Pioneer AVIC-Z140BH should ring in at about $500. Oh and ditch the CD's, MP3's on a SD card is where its at.

Speakers - You can maximize your efforts here by forgetting the notion that components are ALWAYS better then coaxials. This is simply false. A good set of coaxial speakers will out-preform shitty separates. 10 times out of 10. The Focal performance line should be a nice fit here. Should get you in at about $350 per pair.

Amplifier - One of the main reasons your wife blows here speakers is clipping. Pushing the head unit amplifier to its max will result in a clipped signal sent to the driver. This will cause excessive heat, abnormal cone movement, and distorted sound. IT will dramatically reduce the life of the speakers. To have a system last at high volumes, you MUST amplify your speakers. To keep the cost down its best to go with a 5 channel amplifier here. Generally the foot print is slightly bigger but they do the duty of separate amps. It will also eliminate some cost of the supportive wiring (distribution, grounds, signal RCA). Since this is the cornerstone of any system i wouldn't skimp here. IMO JL Audio JL Audio XD700/5 is a nice fit. With 75wrms x 4 and 300wrms x 1. It should get you where you're going to want to be in affordability and power. $600 tax in for one of these.

Subwoofer - This is going to be in a 4runner so you don't have to punch through car seats from a trunk so you can get something a little more conservative here. I would go with a JL Audio 10" w3v3 powerwedge. Spec box and sub in one nice package. They are about $250 and should match up to the amp nicely. IF you must have a bit more oomphf. Step up to the 12" for $50 more.

This system should ring in at $2000 almost on the money (cheaper if you deal hunt or ebay) and will out preform and outlast the last system.

One important thing to note here is setup. The tuning is equally important as the equipment. If you aren't confident in this, find a buddy that will do it. Match the gains right and you will ensure you are getting a clean signal at all times.

PS - I made the assumption that you have everything wired already. If you don't' then google knukoncepts. Do NOT overpay for this stuff. Stay away from the overpriced brands and stick with something that is equally as good but miles cheaper.

[A790]

Power the speakers with an amp.

Get a sub and turn the bass going to the speakers down. The sub will fill the bass and the speakers won't have to work so hard

Get good speakers designed to handle the volume.

Spending $2,000 doesn't need to happen. Amps can be had for cheap on Kijiji and you don't need competition stuff.

You can do it for $1,200 - $1,500 fairly easily I'd say.

[AndyL]

Well head units...

She doesn't want a full on tablet touch screen... So that probably means the pioneer or sony - which also keeps us out of the 500$ units...

http://www.futureshop.ca/en-ca/product/pioneer-pioneer-2-din-cd-mp3-usb-car-receiver-with-ipod-iphone-android-control-fh-x700bt-fh-x700bt/10220448.aspx?path=7ed72752f03ec94dddde974323fe1c7ben02

http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/sony-sony-bluetooth-usb-cd-car-deck-with-smartphone-control-wxgt90bt-wxgt90bt/10241653.aspx?path=1a405c505a55a01482d809d914e25833en02

I'd like to keep the double din form factor of the factory unit.

[spike98]

Originally posted by AndyL
Well head units...

She doesn't want a full on tablet touch screen... So that probably means the pioneer or sony - which also keeps us out of the 500$ units...

http://www.futureshop.ca/en-ca/product/pioneer-pioneer-2-din-cd-mp3-usb-car-receiver-with-ipod-iphone-android-control-fh-x700bt-fh-x700bt/10220448.aspx?path=7ed72752f03ec94dddde974323fe1c7ben02

http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/sony-sony-bluetooth-usb-cd-car-deck-with-smartphone-control-wxgt90bt-wxgt90bt/10241653.aspx?path=1a405c505a55a01482d809d914e25833en02

I'd like to keep the double din form factor of the factory unit.

I made the assumption that she wanted the features but in a basic form. My bad, the pioneer you posted should fit quite nice and cut the cost by $300. One thing to note though, is the preouts for that unit is paltry 2v. This may be ok depending on the input sensitivity of the amp you choose but something with a beefier 4v or higher might be suggested to stay above the noise floor and bellow the clipping limit of the Head Unit.

[AndyL]

:nut: See we're already getting over my head :D 2v vs 4v pre-outs? I thought the rca outs to the amp were all the same? Isn't that the point of putting rca plugs there - standardization? FFS!

Yeah, she gets mad at touch screens very quickly, let's not go there... Buttons and dials for the win.

Ok I'm already confused...

[firebane]

Originally posted by AndyL
:nut: See we're already getting over my head :D 2v vs 4v pre-outs? I thought the rca outs to the amp were all the same? Isn't that the point of putting rca plugs there - standardization? FFS!

Yeah, she gets mad at touch screens very quickly, let's not go there... Buttons and dials for the win.

Ok I'm already confused...

Higher voltage = cleaner signal to the amplifier. A lot of cheaper units or double dins only use 2v as they aren't really ever going to be used by people who are caring about the quality of their audio.

People want the cleanest sounding and best audio aim for 4v pre-outs or higher.

While RCA plugs are all the same it does not mean the output of them is all the same.

[spike98]

Originally posted by firebane


Higher voltage = cleaner signal to the amplifier. A lot of cheaper units or double dins only use 2v as they aren't really ever going to be used by people who are caring about the quality of their audio.

People want the cleanest sounding and best audio aim for 4v pre-outs or higher.

While RCA plugs are all the same it does not mean the output of them is all the same.

This is not entirely true but in practice that's what you achieve.

The higher the voltage of the preout the lower the gain on amp needs to be to achieve a given output.

The Head Unit will distort at about 75% vol, the pre-outs will distort at about 75% volume and the amp will distort at about 75% gain. If you keep all of the components out of the 75%-100% range you will maximize your output while achieving the cleanest, unclipped signal as possible.

[AndyL]

So then do I suck it up and go with something more like http://m.futureshop.ca/defaultpage.aspx?lang=en#/catalog/productdetails.aspx?ajax=true&sku=10194380&lang=en-CA

And have 4.8v preouts? Run a pair of smaller amps for the front/rears and a bigger one for the sub's?

[spike98]

Originally posted by AndyL
So then do I suck it up and go with something more like http://m.futureshop.ca/defaultpage.aspx?lang=en#/catalog/productdetails.aspx?ajax=true&sku=10194380&lang=en-CA

And have 4.8v preouts? Run a pair of smaller amps for the front/rears and a bigger one for the sub's?

Good amps will have good input sensitivity so the input voltage may not be as paramount. Another option if you want to stick with the 2DIN form factor is simply getting a line driver. Its essentially an amp for your RCA signal. Quality ones can be had for fairly cheap. You could find a used audio control one im sure for less than $100. They will take you pansy 2v pre-out and step it up to 10v if needed.

Also note that lower end decks usually only have 2 sets. F/R or F/S. If you are amping the speakers and want to keep fader control you will HAVE to get a line driver, get a speaker amp with a pre-amp output, or go with a 5 channel amp.

A pair of amps for the fronts/rears is simply waste. A 4x75wrms would work just fine.

[AndyL]

You're starting to talk greek on me... And lets not add unneeded components if we can just start with the right parts and keep it simple.

So that JVC has 3 - 4.8v pre-outs... Front rear and sub...
Isn't that what I'm looking for? Realizing single din might make more sense; double is somewhat limiting...

Do I understand correctly - connect that to:
http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/alpine-4-channel-car-amplifier-mrp-f300/10098199.aspx?path=9adb78254154d1648645e7994f8cbeaaen02

Then have amps for front / rear... Use the 3/4 in crossover for the sub?

[spike98]

That deck has 3 pre-outs. Front L/R, Rear L/R and a sub out.

So you would have Front L/R and Rear L/R to one amp for your speakers. Then run something like this to your sub using the sub out on the deck:

http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/alpine-electronics-alpine-1-channel-car-amplifier-mrp-m500-mrp-m500/10098204.aspx?path=11f0be8cc575ce7ef2278ccc52d56b8fen02

Using one of the amps on your link can work but you would need to split the sub out on your deck to all the inputs of the amp, AND run a dual voice coil sub to get the most out of the amp.

You can also stick with the pioneer double din deck and use the mono out on the amp itself to supply single to the sub amp. You will lose sub control (meaning to change the settings on the deck) but you will still be able to tune at the amp itself.

[AndyL]

:cry:

See that there? That's what's left of my brain after it exploded...

[firebane]

A lot of people will run 2 amps as stated.

One amp which is a 4 channel will take care of the front and rear speakers but depending on how often a person is in the vehicle you'll find that 90% of the time the rears go to waste and a good set of fronts is better.. at least this is what I've found.

Then you run a second amp dedicated for the sub which is a single channel and mono if you can over a stereo one.

This will yield the best sound for most vehicles.

[Ford_H8ter]

A good cost effective way to make things simple as already stated though would be to run a good 4 channel amp, run the front components off channel 1&2, bridge(combine channels) 3&4 (giving more power) to run the sub.

If you are really looking for some rear sound, simply use the head unit (built in small amp) to power the rear speakers just for some fill. a good set of components up front is all anyone really needs, but some people enjoy the surround sound feeling. Adjust the fading more to the front and it would be perfect.

wiring again stated, use knukonceptz, they have a good bang for your buck, very reasonable shipping (maybe 2 weeks tops, pending customs, no broker fees or anything. Ive used them for 4 setups and nothing but quality experience with product or service)

Simple breakdown, $400 for a decent 4 channel amp, $200 for the sub, $200 for the speakers (front components) $50-80 for the rears (if necessary), $200 for any run of the mill head unit, $100 for the wiring.

Might be a bit over budget, but it is going to be a good well rounded setup. I like to order all my stuff online as any big box or audio shop has a 100% markup on everything. ive had no issues with any places ive ordered from (pm for places), she would have to play well above her listening levels to ever really worry about blowing speakers imho. proper setup is key though, again as already stated.

your not looking for sound competition level sound, no real need for 2 amps (not very cost efficient either, amps aint cheap) and no need for any crazy wattage either, 100 to the speakers (200 total) and 300 to a sub is perfect for a dd. sure throwing 500 at the speakers and 1000 at the sub is great, but not realistic at all.

[firebane]

You can find amps for fairly cheap if you look around. 2 amps are better than 1 because if your single goes out you are completely out of sound.

If one dies at least you have sound of some form ;)

[Ford_H8ter]

Agreed, more is always better, whether its hp, torque, wattage or women.

if a good deal can be found on kijiji or another, by all means go for it.

as far as if it dies, im sure the sound of the engine and road noise is better than that terrible blown speaker rattling around with no high end or low end. if its your speaker amp that blows, really, there is no sound besides that womp womp from the sub, and i cant stand that alone. its like those guys in the civic that throw in 2 12's and dont spend a single cent on speakers. sure it rattles the living hell outa your car and everyone elses, but there is no sound.

a sub only plays 1% of the sound spectrum (32-80htz typically). your mids (80-2000ish, a little rusty on these numbers, been outa the building stage for a while) and tweets (2000+). where would you spend your money. enough rambling and ranting.

[AndyL]

Pretty sure her music often does some funky front/rear fades - so I'm just gonna assume I should amp everything up...


So I'm still thinking

Deck (seems to be cheapest 3 pre-amp out, 4.8v?)
http://m.futureshop.ca/defaultpage.aspx?lang=en#/catalog/productdetails.aspx?ajax=true&sku=10194380&lang=en-CA

Amp (just picked a random earlier)
http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/alpine-4-channel-car-amplifier-mrp-f300/10098199.aspx?path=9adb78254154d1648645e7994f8cbeaaen02

Run 1/2 for front / rear - then bridge 3/4 for amp?

Do I dare ask about speaker recomendations? Fronts are currently 6 3/4" with separate tweets... Subs?

[jaylo]

May I suggest using a sound processor for maximum sound pleasure

http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pxa-h800

Also website http://www.the12volt.com has some good read about audio systems

[Ford_H8ter]

JVC USB/ MP3/ WMA/ Bluetooth CD Car Deck with iPod/ iPhone/ BlackBerry/ Android Control (KD-R80BT)
$219.99

Kicker KS-Series 6" Car Speakers (11KS62)
$239.98

Alpine X-Power 5-Channel Car Amplifier (MRX-V70)
$399.99

Kicker 10'' Car Subwoofer with Competition Sub Enclosure (10TC10)
$199.99

Kicker 6.5" 2-Way Coaxial Speaker (CS654)
$99.99

Product Total:$1,159.94

Subtotal:$1,159.94
GST:$58.00

Order Total:$1,217.94

Just a quick pieced together kit from future shop, 5 channel amp gives you full capabilities of amping everything separately. add on 100 for the wiring from knu and you would have a great start. I have no clue on the quality of any of the kicker speakers or subs, i know the sub would be a little overpowered from this amp, but gain control is everything and overpower is better than underpowered to a point. use the components up front and the coaxial in the back

[Ford_H8ter]

Originally posted by jaylo
May I suggest using a sound processor for maximum sound pleasure

http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pxa-h800

Also website http://www.the12volt.com has some good read about audio systems

another great one is diyma, excellent forum for the car audio gurus out there or people looking for some great knowledge.

as far as a processor, blows the entire budget out the window, and minimal benefit without using top quality equipment with. simple tuning with the amps and quality source material (higher kbps music) will be plenty for the above average person.

That said, sound processors are an awesome solution to many things. allowing to install a complete after market setup while keeping factory integration (voice control and nav etc) and it does give a boost to the quality as well. I run a JBL MS-8 in my truck and it makes life very easy, but its a creature comfort and not necessity

[ercchry]

it sounds like you have to make this idiot proof for her, i wont comment on brands as i havent paid any attention to this stuff since high school, but i will say get an external amp or two!

when you hook it all up (hopefully you have matched the power levels successfully) pop in her most insane music and get someone on the gain controls for the amps while the other cranks the deck. make sure you get no clipping or distortion from the speakers at max ridiculous level. problem solved

[Graham_A_M]

Dude? Pm me if you have any stereo questions, I dont have the time to really get into this since Im on my Iphone right now, but I really know WTF I'm talking about when it comes to car audio. A few years back I had a 153.3db 4600 watt RMS car stereo that cost me an astronomical $600 to put together. The sound quality was amazing as well.....

Good sound, or LOUD doesn't have to come at a price, but a fair share of know how is needed to do it right, leave alone very cheaply.... I'll chime in to this more tomorrow when Im on my computer.

Modern day Kicker subs? absolute dog shit.... dont waste your time or money
There are *WAY* better subs out there for the same kind of money.
I can't believe there are people on here recommending them... honestly.... :nut:

[know1edge]

.

[Graham_A_M]

Hey Andy, off to supper, but when I get back I'll make a big post of whats good, what you'll need and where to get it.
(etc)

[78si]

I have an old JL 12' sub you can have :)

[Kavy]

A few of you are really are not listening to what Andy is saying.

When he says he wants to spend around $1000 it doesn't mean put together a system costing 2k plus or add in sound processors. I think he would best be served with suggestions into his price range.

Andy, Graham knows what he is talking about and I suggest following his direction.

[ExtraSlow]

Kavy, this is typical beyond.
OP: - I need to buy a car for under 10k.
Beyond.ca: You can get a used C63 AMG for around $50k if you shop around, those cars are great and as long as you fix the rear camber and get studded winter tires, you'll be able to drive it year round.

- - - -- - - -

OP: I'm looking to buy some new appliances for my house. I'm just out of university, so price is the biggest issue.
Beyond.ca: don't even bother with any entry-level stuff. it looks like junk and you'll never impress anyone with it. I reccomend Subzero and Thermador.

[Ford_H8ter]

Originally posted by ExtraSlow
Kavy, this is typical beyond.

The "build" i posted, yes over budget 30%, was coupled to the idea of him potentially blowing speakers and wanting SIMPLE exchange warranty and to buy locally.

Graham - I explicitly said i have no knowledge whatsoever of the kicker stuff, but its about all that was available on future junks site, besides the mtx junk.

as stated in an earlier response, i never buy at a local shop, prices might as well be doubled. sure i could make a system easily twice as good, buying online and finding good used deals, but it sounded like andy was looking for an easy, hassle free way of doing things.

If that is not what was implied by some of his responses, my apologies and i would be more than happy to recommend what i would actually run if it was me...but Graham is the guy who knows what he is talking about...have at it

[Graham_A_M]

^ No I used to be a HUGE fan of Kicker subs, their Solobaric (grey cone style) subs from the mid 90's were amazing, both in terms of SQ & SPL. You'd see them at IASCA SQ & SPL competitions equally so. Then not long after they introduced those square L series subs, and to date I've never modeled nor heard a worse sounding sub. It starts in its design, and a square cone creates monstrous unavoidable problems. Now? they haven't build a "GOOD" sub since, round or square.

Alright, wow what a gong show few days this has been, my god.... :nut:

Finally have .2 minutes to actually answer this, so here it goes. (For the record? EVERYTHING here is merely an example, and possibly a route you may want to go. There are a lot of other things/components, etc etc..... If you like certain brands, great we can work with that too.

Lanzar makes decent full range speakers, especially for the price. Many years ago when I used to work in car audio, we were a rep for Lanzar, and I was honestly amazed at how good they sound clarity wise. The mid to highs with them is excellent. They were damn good speakers for $50-70 a pair.

6 & 3/4? really? I think you mean 6.5". Measure it from the end of the rubber surround to the end of the rubber surround on the opposite end.
So I typed in Lanzar speakers, in ebay (since we have such a bad selection of brands here in calgary).
I first found these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-New-LANZAR-OPTI6MI-6-5-1000W-Car-Mid-bass-Mid-Range-Audio-Speakers-PAIR-/231071073437?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item35cce8c49d
^ :rolleyes: Wow a pair of 6.5 woofers that can handle 250 rms each eh? Thats a piddly twice as much as any other company.... Oh okie dokie, a bit ambitious on their claims I think.
Anyway, below is a pair of 6.5's that are cheap, and will sound decent.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PAIR-LANZAR-MAX-MX63-6-5-TRIAXIAL-3-WAY-200W-FULL-RANGE-CAR-SPEAKERS-6-5IN-/141106497654?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item20da9a4876

These ones below are better, but requires the tweeter to be mounted. With the first pair above this one, its all included, there is no crossover (what determines which frequencies go to which speaker) to worry about, just hook it up and go. These ones in the link below have a small crossover which needs to be mounted, and a tweeter as well. But I dont know your application so its a bit of a tough call for me to make.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Lanzar-MX6C-6-5-200-Watts-2-Way-Component-Speaker-System-Car-Audio-/350764799940?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item51ab3617c4

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LANZAR-VX520-CAR-STEREO-1-PAIR-STANDARD-5-25-3-WAY-SPEAKERS-POLY-MICA-COATED-/231089743508?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item35ce05a694&vxp=mtr
^ Id get these 5.25" 's. These are similar to the heritage & Optidrive line we used to carry.

Or just pick and choose, PM me or ask if you need help. Im keeping this whole post absurdly simple, and not touching on anything remotely technical, since to about 99% of the people reading this, they wont have a clue what Im talking about if I did really get into it.

These are wicked subs, I've recommended them numerous times with excellent results. Dayton makes subwoofers for a variety of applications, and these will work great for you.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-512
^ The spec's it'll need for a box are listed on there. I cant verify what box size & style it needs using my subwoofer box modeling program since Im at the farm, and no where near my home computer.

600 watts RMS is a fairly decent set up, I doubt she'll need more unless shes nuts. I dont know.... but with a decent box that works with it, those frequency response curves look good, and it should pack quite a punch.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=269-537
^ Bravox is a Brazilian company that makes and has made some decent speakers/subs for a long time... but you'd need two of those most likely, so its your call, but I'd save space and go with the above one.

If you wanted to buy a new sub amp, Hertz makes some brilliant stuff....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HERTZ-HDP1-CAR-AUDIO-MONOBLOCK-CLASS-D-AMPLIFIER-AMP1000W-RMS-HDP-1-NEW-/130781199203?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item1e732abb63 Abiet its a bit pricey.... but there are TONS of options.

(Wow, almost all amp manufacturers nowadays are just putting out rebranded Chinese garbage.... its unbelievable.... Im looking at so many (formerly awesome brands,) and its now its just chinese crap. This one older company called 'American bass' had a "2800 watts RMS sub amp for $319"? Yeah that seems legit. :nut: (What have I been doing ALL these years paying several thousands for amps that ACTUALLY put out that kind of power when I can just buy one for 1/6 the price? :nut: )

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZAPCO-ST-4X-AMP-4-CHANNEL-420W-RMS-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-TWEETERS-CAR-AMPLIFIER-NEW-/121167723114?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item1c3628ba6a&vxp=mtr
^ That would be a good 4ch amp for the full range speakers. Zapco used to make amazing amps that still sell for a MINT today, even that their now 20 years old. Their new amps are great still, but not hand made in the US like they used to be.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phoenix-Gold-zx600ti-zx600-tiTitanium-Car-Audio-Amplifier-2ch-amp-/251369516353?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item3a86ca6d41
^ This is a phenomenal older used amp, but in wicked shape. Im VERY tempted to buy this for myself actually. Its under rated at 600 RMS into 4 ohms bridged, but these usually put out 15% more power then what their rated to. I have the little brother to this amp. I LOVE it, its phenomenal.

Keep in mind, I know money is a big thing.... Even so, I could work with you and design and build EVERYTHING, including the crossovers, build them.... select everything... but thats a fair bit of work. I've done that before on a few SQ/SPL cars, this is just over the shelf components I've picked out for you... and stuff thats easy to buy and install. The skies the limit, but I know thats not the build goal really. So I'll keep everything painfully simple.



Andy, I'll walk you through everything, and I can install it all for you as well potentially. Id get way more into it, but I gotta run...

BTW, RCA preout volts means how powerful of a signal that'll be sent to your amp directly from the headunit obviously. In the mid to late 90's, 2volts was normal. Problem is, thats such a weak signal that the amp rarely runs 100%, if it does, that comes at playing around with the amps input sensitivity which leads to other issues with how it'll react when you increase or decrease your stereos volume level. 4 volts is better, and eliminates those issues typically, 4 volts is quite normal actually.
I have a special device from Phoenix gold that'll bring the RCA voltage from (whatever) to 7-8 volts.... which will REALLY make the amp dance when it receives such as powerful signal. Basically the higher the preout voltage, along with good wiring going to the amp, means you'll be able to pull out the full power output the amp was designed to put out. Using 2volt preouts from cheaper, older decks, thats a lot harder to do typically. Its do-able, Ive done it TONS of times, and have the hardware to do it again, but its one less component to worry about, so just get a decent deck basically and be done with it.

[Graham_A_M]

^ I should have stated, if budget is a concern, I can have it so it'll still sound awesome, installed under a grand. I only say under a grand, so that the part/component cost will be around $800-900 or so, and I can install everything for around $50-100. (Only the cost of wiring it all in... as in pay for the wiring, distribution blocks). You're a great guy, as you've helped out my bro with his garage, so I can do this on the side for next to nothing really (regarding install I mean). Perhaps just a case of Sleeman's on the side, and Im good to go. :rofl:

The biggest thing is buying decent components, and I can do the rest on my end.
I never added everything up, but from what I gather, it should cost about a grand to buy all those components. Everything I listed should add up to about that.

Then its install, but with friends I dont charge for that. At all. :dunno:
^ If you already have a deck, then you'll end up with a quite a bumpin' system for barely any money.

When I talked about that 4600 watt RMS competition install, I bought everything used, or as individual speakers that I designed and built the crossovers for (myself) and I did it all for about $600.

Personally I hate to use 5 channel amps, or 6 channel, because it limits you're options significantly. With most 6 channel amps, sure you can bridge two of the channels.... but the power out put of bridging two of the channels works out to about (typically) 200-300 watts RMS, which REALLY isn't a lot.
I have a Sony Xplod 600 watt RMS two channel amp (IIRC its 300 RMS into ohms's X2 or 600 RMS into 4 ohms bridged, which would work quite well with the subs I've mentioned. Its yours.... I have it in my S10, and I dont have the room for subs much anymore. Not only that, but it'll be parked once I bring it home with me, so let me know if you want the amp out of it. ;)



As stated, JL makes decent stuff. I haven't seen nor experienced anything they make that isn't still decent.

Their just about the only US company that still makes great stuff, and always have. Them and Zapco are two of (just about the only) companies that make decent stuff today.