Carburetor adjustment tools?

[Jamey]

Does anyone have carburetor adjustment tools for sale or rent in Calgary? I have a 1979 Buick Le Sabre with a Rochester Quadrajet and it has these called "Double D" adjusting screws under where I punched out the factory caps. And to adjust them is a real pain without the tools. I made a piece of copper tubing work somewhat but can't be very accurate. Having the proper screwdriver would sure help. Normally I gotta say I like "Double D's" but in this case not so much.:dunno:

[Jamey]

OK I made it work with copper tubing shaped like a double D. But it would really help if I had a GM Choke Angle Gauge. Does anyone have one of these in Calgary? I made a mistake and adjusted the screw for the vacuum break and now she bogs. Before she was perfect. I don't know how to set it with a drill bit because the GM delco book does not mention that. My carb needs exactly a 20 degree angle for the vacuum break adjustment. But if you are off just a little the thing bogs.

This is the tool I need. If anyone out there in Calgary has one I could borrow or rent or buy I'd be a very happy man.

http://www.vetteprojects.com/kstyer/images/qjet/thumbs/sm-vette1_090.jpg

[firebane]

Ahhh good one quadrant. If you want parts let me know as I have a bunch.

Regarding the double D tool parts source has them and the angle gauge isn't necessary just use a 1/4 drill bit.

I just rebuilt one last year and they are pretty easy just make sure you have a quality gasket set.

[Jamey]

Originally posted by firebane
Ahhh good one quadrant. If you want parts let me know as I have a bunch.

Regarding the double D tool parts source has them and the angle gauge isn't necessary just use a 1/4 drill bit.

I just rebuilt one last year and they are pretty easy just make sure you have a quality gasket set.

Oh really, so 1/4 drill bit is not too thick?

[firebane]

Originally posted by Jamey


Oh really, so 1/4 drill bit is not too thick?

1/4" drill bit is the general norm for a baseline setting.

[Jamey]

Originally posted by firebane


1/4" drill bit is the general norm for a baseline setting.

I did that and it seems to have fixed the bog for the most part. It is just that I have a shaky idle. Doesn't seem like the engine is missing at all but it is just shaky. Has lots of power cruising too. Idles at a fine speed just has this annoying shake and I have no clue why. I have changed spark plugs. I'm thinking to do a compression test. I thought these V8's are supposed to run smooth. Maybe the engine mounts are bad but probably not. Anyone know how I can fix this? It is a 350 V8 Buick Vin X. 1979 Buick that is.

[cancer man]

Did you overhaul it looks gummed up pretty good.Idle circuit could be partially plugged or intake manifold. egr not sticking partially open. Lots of things to check.

[Jamey]

Originally posted by cancer man
Did you overhaul it looks gummed up pretty good.Idle circuit could be partially plugged or intake manifold. egr not sticking partially open. Lots of things to check.

I'm not sure where to look or what to do. I can try actuate the egr with my vacuum pump and see if it makes a difference. I guess I could also take it off and look at it. I overhauled the carb. I soaked it in varsol all night and then cleaned it good and put it back together. I'll try the EGR. I wish there was a way to pin point it.

[Jamey]

Well the EGR does nothing. I tried using a vacuum pump and the thing doesn't do anything. I pulled it off and it doesn't appear to be leaking any exhaust into the other side. I taped off the ports for a bit and didn't change anything. Still the shake. So I can rule out that EGR. I think I read that it uses exhaust back pressure to work and if not enough it doesn't move.

As far as the rest goes I'm stumped. I pulled off the cap to look at it and nothing unusual there. I guess maybe a compression test could tell me if maybe a bad valve or something. I don't know. Overall it really drives ok just not how I remember these cars to be when they are good. Feels like I'm on a wild goose chase. :drama:

[firebane]

If you pulled the carb and didn't do a proper rebuild who knows what you may have introduced into the system or plugged up.

I never suggest dismantling a carb unless needed because you could introduce vacuum leaks.

[raceman6135]

Sometimes a "shaky" engine can be caused by worn or broken engine mounts, a faulty harmonic balancer (outer ring could have slipped), a flywheel/flexplate imbalance, torque convertor/clutch disc or pressure plate issue, or intermittent electrical short on the high tension side (somewhere from the coil through the rotor and cap, down the wires, to the plugs).

[Jamey]

Originally posted by firebane
If you pulled the carb and didn't do a proper rebuild who knows what you may have introduced into the system or plugged up.

I never suggest dismantling a carb unless needed because you could introduce vacuum leaks.

Well I get a steady 17 inches of mercury at idle from manifold vacuum. Is that about right for Calgary? I wonder if a good mechanic could pin it down. I like to repair things but don't have the knowledge to figure this out. But I'm sure many mechanics would also have a tough time.