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View Full Version : Torque on a scooter clutch.



Seth1968
04-04-2017, 09:50 AM
Hi all.

I'll be replacing the clutch and variator rollers on 50cc scooter, and have a question about the final nut torque.

In all the tutorials I've seen, they use an impact wrench to remove and install the final nut, but there is no mention of torque. What's up with that?

BTW-There is no practical way to brace the rim to tighten the nut, but I'm also wondering if a strap wrench would suffice?

Thanks.

sk8r3124
04-04-2017, 10:41 AM
I don't have an answer for the Torque,

But I am just in the middle of replacing a short axel to accommodate fatty wheels, which requires removing the clutch cover. I am not using impact, but you will need one of these.

That's my project for tonight.

https://www.drowsports.com/buzzetti-universal-variator-tool/

carson blocks
04-04-2017, 10:47 AM
They probably recommend the impact since it will tighten it without just trying to spin the driveline. Use the impact, don't overthink it. If you're strapped, PA sells an electric impact that's not the worst tool ever. Torque spec is 1 braaaap, if you're paranoid maybe 1.5-2 braaaaps. If you braaaaapp too hard, it will go whiirrr and you'll need to learn how to use an ez-out.

J-hop
04-04-2017, 11:17 AM
1 brap with a cheap electric impact gun could be 50 ft lbs or 100ftlbs you have no idea. I feel this mindset is why I have to retorque every time a shop does my tires, 1-2 braps= holy eff 50% over torqued hahaha.

RickDaTuner
04-04-2017, 11:25 AM
What's the diameter of the nut threads? Clutch basket/drum hold down bolts range from 60-80ft/lbs depending on thread size.

sk8r3124
04-04-2017, 11:34 AM
Did a quick check on totalruckus

GET motor: torque wrench to tighten the variator to 24 and the clutch nut to 29

GY6:
1. Cylinder stud nuts (16 ft-lbs)
2&3. Clutch and variator nuts (40 ft-lbs)
4. Flywheel nut (40 ft-lbs)

Seth1968
04-04-2017, 12:27 PM
Originally posted by carson blocks
Torque spec is 1 braaaap, if you're paranoid maybe 1.5-2 braaaaps. If you braaaaapp too hard, it will go whiirrr and you'll need to learn how to use an ez-out.

Lol.

In all the videos, they do 1.5 braaaaps. That's what I'll go with.

BTW- I used an impact wrench and have gotten the clutch and variator out. The shoes are worn right down, and one is out of place. Funny though, the scooter has got about 75,000 Km on it, but the drive belt still looks new.

carson blocks
04-04-2017, 04:18 PM
Originally posted by J-hop
1 brap with a cheap electric impact gun could be 50 ft lbs or 100ftlbs you have no idea. I feel this mindset is why I have to retorque every time a shop does my tires, 1-2 braps= holy eff 50% over torqued hahaha.

My response was half tongue-in-cheek, but really there is a difference between this and your wheels. With the scooter on the center stand and the rear wheel up, you're torquing against a freewheeling drivetrain, not a stationary object. At a certain torque, the driveline will just spin so overtorque isn't as much of a concern. This is why I'd be more comfortable with this "one-braap" approach whereas I religiously use a torque wrench on my wheels.

Plus, it's a scooter so even using mostly new parts and installing them sober is taking way more care than it deserves.

ExtraSlow
04-04-2017, 04:35 PM
On my "savage" Honda Fit lug nuts, spec is 80 ft lbs. I do 1 long and a second short braap, and it's always less than 80 when I do my final tighten with my torque wrench. Works for me! :thumbsup:

J-hop
04-04-2017, 04:47 PM
Originally posted by carson blocks

....
Plus, it's a scooter so even using mostly new parts and installing them sober is taking way more care than it deserves.

:rofl:

Yea I'm just anal about torque specs after screwing up myself and shops screwing me hard by not following proper torquing spec and method. Now have over $1000 in torque wrenches in my home garage haha

carson blocks
04-04-2017, 04:54 PM
Originally posted by J-hop


:rofl:

Yea I'm just anal about torque specs after screwing up myself and shops screwing me hard by not following proper torquing spec and method. Now have over $1000 in torque wrenches in my home garage haha

I've only got the mastercraft maximums on sale for less than half price. The ft-lbs one worked great, but the in-lbs one would have cost me a broken valvetrain stud a few days ago if I wasn't paranoid enough to check it. Brand new and it turns out it doesn't click at any torque value, regardless of the setting. Oh well, a DOA item can happen with any product I guess. If the replacement one tests fine, I'll still trust it with the occasional recheck.

J-hop
04-04-2017, 05:00 PM
Originally posted by carson blocks


I got the mastercraft maximums on sale. The ft-lbs one worked great, the in-lbs one would have cost me a broken valvetrain stud if I wasn't paranoid enough to check it. Brand new and it turns out it doesn't click at any torque value, regardless of the setting. Oh well, a DOA item can happen with any product I guess. If the replacement one tests fine, I'll still trust it with the occasional recheck.

Yea no offence but mastercraft is shit. Really almost any clicker type is garbage especially when your working in tightspots or low torque applications where feeling the click isn't always super obvious. I chucked all of my mastercraft maximums in the garbage after the same thing happened to me.

CDI digitals are what I use, nothing cheaper than around $400

carson blocks
04-04-2017, 05:19 PM
Originally posted by J-hop


Yea no offence but mastercraft is shit. Really almost any clicker type is garbage especially when your working in tightspots or low torque applications where feeling the click isn't always super obvious. I chucked all of my mastercraft maximums in the garbage after the same thing happened to me.

I was hoping the Maximum line might be alright, but I guess not. I was just trying to step up from the Princess Auto one I've had for 15 years previous, which always worked and actually tested to be fairly accurate.

J-hop
04-04-2017, 05:43 PM
Originally posted by carson blocks


I was hoping the Maximum line might be alright, but I guess not. I was just trying to step up from the Princess Auto one I've had for 15 years previous, which always worked and actually tested to be fairly accurate.

I'd have no problem using them for wheels and suspension work. But engine work I wouldn't be comfortable.

78si
04-05-2017, 12:48 PM
1.5 Braaaps + one drop of blue locktite lol