The final word on break in periods?

[Davan]

This subject has probably been beat to death already... but what the hell....

What is everyone's opinion on break-in periods? Five thousand Kilometres? Ten thousand? Twenty Thousand? The new car has variable cam timing... I have yet to push it to the switchover point... with a massive one hundred and forty kilometres on the car so far. Heheh.

What about switching over to synthetic motor oil, from the stock synthetic blend? Right away? Not for a while?

Thanks for any info, tips and suggestions!

[Wildcat]

most dealers say the car is worked in nicely at about 10K

[Davan]

Worked in enough to bold on a supercharger?

[Wildcat]

Originally posted by Davan
Worked in enough to bold on a supercharger?

ya i wouldnt do any forced induction mods till at least 10k, bolt ons n shit are always relatively sound for a new engine tho.

your probly gonna have to wait 1 year or so till you can blow that new SVT of yours , in the meantime start saving!

[Davan]

Waiting sucks. I want it now! Damn this snow!

[Dirty_SOHC]

start driving by spring you'll be in good shape.

[buh_buh]

I've heard the engine isn't really completely worked in until around 30k km's. That is supposed to be when everything is working at its best. I would try not to do any FI until then, and as far as synthetic goes, I think maybe after 10k.

[littledan]

^^^ just wondering... what about factory fi cars?... wouldn't the rings etc.. seat just the same under na and fi conditions?

[buh_buh]

Originally posted by littledan
^^^ just wondering... what about factory fi cars?... wouldn't the rings etc.. seat just the same under na and fi conditions?

no, I don't think so because on factory FI cars, the motors are designed to handle FI. Maybe if you want to throw in a 200 shot of NAAWWZZ that would be different haha.

[Akagi Redsuns]

I figured my break-in period was over at 1,000 miles, or 1,600 kms according to the manual. Took it easy until about 2,000 kms and then started to do some full throtlle and high rpm runs. I also swtiched to synthetic oil at 12,000 kms, figured it was safe to do it after that. People say that it needs a bit with regular oil for the everything to get beaded and broken in. Hopefully that is the case.

[GTS Jeff]

some salesmen say that the cars theyre selling dont need a breakin period which is a total crock of shit. i read somewhere a long time ago about some dude that was going overboard with his break in procedure. he basically drove the first 300km under 3 grand, then the next 300 under 4grand....etc etc until he reached redline. all the while being careful to not stay at one speed.

[Maxt]

For me , its about 1/2 a block....Maxt

[rice_eater]

i think there are two separate break ins here...one is for when you build your engine and put it back in, the other is when you buy a car off the showroom floor. I think they are a lot different.

For once when you build your engine you only break the engine in, not every single bolt on your car. Second you dont know what they do to "pre-break" the engine in at the factory. I dont see anyone buying a new car and then letting it run for 20 mins, after which they go take it for an oil change to get rid of the assembly lube. Who can really know what else they do to it there? So which one are we talking about here?

There are at least a couple rules though that should be followed for both though:

1-make sure the engine doesn't overheat
2-dont use synthetic until break in is over because that stuff is WAY too slippery and wont get the initial lubing job done properly
3-constantly varying load rpm during break in.

after that you do what you want...break the rings right away or slowly grind them down into position...i doubt anyone will ever come to a consensus on that

[4wheeldrift]

I'd follow the manual if it lists a break in procedure. The first 1500km or so is usually ok, the most important thing is to get the oil changed at that point. Some companies still use mineral oil in the motors during break in and it doesn't do nearly as good a job lubricating/resisting heat as normal oil does. There can be a fair amount of metal in the oil at first as well, the sooner you get all that out of the engine after break in the better.

[rice_eater]

btw...your owner's manual has a procedure so why not follow that? that way you are covered for warranty

[Wildcat]

i wouldnt race a car or take it to the track unless it had at least 10K on it, but thats just me.

[Loose]

Originally posted by 4wheeldrift
Some companies still use mineral oil in the motors during break in and it doesn't do nearly as good a job lubricating/resisting heat as normal oil does.

I thought normal oil was mineral.

I believe that break-in on a new car isn't as important as most people think.

My grandpa's new Corolla owner manual says something like "Do not exceed a speed of 80 km/h for the first xxxx km". What a joke.

If the manual says something, assume it's an over cautious thing.

ie. If it says go easy for 1000km, you could probably only do 500 km and get away with it no problem.

[Davan]

I think I'm concerned with all this winter driving, I'm not varying speed enough.... but I do have a trip down to Lethbridge planned for this weekend...

[CRXguy]

10K break-in period?

When I bought my WRX, I just took it easy for the first 500km's. The next 500km's, I just would give it a quick rip once a while. After 1000km, I started driving how I would usually drive.

My first oil change was done at 2000km, to get rid of any contaminents or whatever during the break-in period. Then I did it every 4000km for the next 2 oil changes. Now I do it every 5000km.

I didn't switch to Mobil 1 synthetic until the 10000km mark.

[Davan]

That sounds something like what I'm planning, Anh... weather permitting, of course.