Engine dies while driving . . . .

[creeper]

Last night on my way home I was crusing down a street in a residential area at about 50k, and all of the sudden the engine quit. No lights on the dash came on, and the radio and headlights stayed on normally without any interuption.

I pulled over, waited about 5 minutes, and started the car up again. It started fine, and I drove home without any more problems.

The car has been having an issue lately where it will turn on, and rev to about 1000 RPM, and then drop back down and shut off.

Also, if you drive the car for about 10 minutes, shut it off (or go into a store or something) and come back out within about 5 minutes, the car usually wont restart without alot of effort.

I have a remote starter, which I went in on Friday to Visons (who have horrendous customer support - and dont seem to give a shit what people think of their service) to have checked out - and after decsribing the problem of the car often not starting, or problematic restarting, he told me that it was a voltage problem, and that's why my remote has not been working. The remote will unlock and lock the doors, but will not start the car.

So what the hell? Fuel pump, battery? What do you think the problem with this car is . . . .

Insight appreciated!

[tjtd00]

maybe give us some insight as to what type of car it is and we can give you some help

[djayz]

^^
says "What I drive: 92 Accord EX-R"

it could be that your battery is messed up...could be alternator

not so sure about fuel pump.

[camaro]

Does it throw on a CEL after it dies?

[tjtd00]

being an accord you may have a problem with the pgm-fi main fuel pump relay, also check inside the distributor for rust seen that cause the distributor to fail also, could also be just the module inside the ditributor

[creeper]

It's a 1992 Honda Accord, about 165,000 KMs - no previous problems with the car, no accidents.

Not sure what a CEL is.

Had the distributor replaced about a month ago, thinking that was the problem.

Going to maybe swap the battery with one that is known to be working properly, see if that makes a difference. If not, I guess its an appointment with the dealership.



:bigpimp:

[djayz]

CEL is the check engine light

before you replace your battery pull it and take it to canadian tire and have it tested

[Weapon_R]

I believe that your alternator is going.

[creeper]

Nope, the check engine light does not come on.

[camaro]

I would have to side with weapon_r and say there is a good chance that its the alternator, I know for sure your ECU is fine if it doesn't throw on the CEL. Its not dying because lack of fuel, etc.

[frozenrice]

Check the main fuel relay or the ignitor. Seems to be a common problem with Honda engines. If it was your alternator, the battery light on your dash should have come on.

[spanky99]

check the feul filter and the feul pump, it can be that battery is going dead , or the battery has a loose connection too keep us updated

[jaylo]

My money is on the MFR or the ignitor like frozenrice said! Go check it out.

[philipoo]

fuel pump

[FroggerDude]

sounds like the same thing that happened to my friends integra. ended up being the distributor.

[creeper]

Update - Took the car to Honda West (pleased with the service :)) and they checked it out.

Was the main fuel relay. Its this big fuse type thing, which controls the fuel pump (I think!). $273 in total to get it fixed.

The part itself is $102.00 and is located up in the inards of the car on the drivers side, and could easily be replaced by anyone. But why replace this yourself, when you can enjoy a good $171 labour bill! Love it!

So if this happens to you, I'd say do it yourself, easy part to buy - easy to install. PM me if you want full details and pics of where this shit is all located. It would likely take about 15 mins total to change (because its semi-akward to get at).

My remote starter, which was not working during this "crisis" is now working again. Thanks boys! Another job well done by Honda West.

:thumbsup:

[dooman24]

my teg did the same thing..
changed the ingnition coil and it worked..
it's like you drive.. then you slow then.. then it struggle to get it moving again and just dies?
the MFR might be it to..

[dooman24]

i have 2 MFR for an integra.. i don't know if it'll fit a accordd.. but you can try them and if it works.. you can have it for $40

[mshaw]

Originally posted by FroggerDude
sounds like the same thing that happened to my friends integra. ended up being the distributor.

exactly the same as what happened to me with my old integra scary shit especially when your drivin down deerfoot