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dj_rice
01-01-2006, 10:47 PM
When you first install brand new subwoofers, what is the proper method in breaking the subwoofer in?Is there a purpose or must to breaking them in?


Any input would be appreciated

3G
01-01-2006, 11:00 PM
I'd like to know the answer to this too

EK 2.0
01-01-2006, 11:03 PM
play at low volumes for about 4 hours with not a LOT of low frequncies...then at mid volumes for a few more hours...then BOOOOOMMMMM you are ready to bass yo...

googe
01-01-2006, 11:15 PM
ah, the crap people buy into... :nut:

EK 2.0
01-01-2006, 11:17 PM
Originally posted by googe
ah, the crap people buy into... :nut:

werrd...

dj_rice
01-01-2006, 11:21 PM
Originally posted by EK 2.0
play at low volumes for about 4 hours with not a LOT of low frequncies...then at mid volumes for a few more hours...then BOOOOOMMMMM you are ready to bass yo...

So is this a correct method or are you just pulling my leg :dunno:

Weapon_R
01-01-2006, 11:29 PM
Install.

Turn that shit up. It's got a 1 year warranty.

Zero102
01-02-2006, 12:08 AM
I've never broken in a speaker in my life.
I've heard everything from playing certain varieties of pink and white noise to playing it on low volume for several hours to just cranking it up from the get go.
My conclusion is that it's all a bunch of shit. I just plug them in, play with the setup until they sound best, and forget all about breaking them in. I just listen to them how I want to.

alky1987
01-02-2006, 12:16 AM
u dont have to break em in. what the hell are you talking about. warranty is always there anyways

retro-steve
01-02-2006, 12:18 AM
Originally posted by Weapon_R
Install.

Turn that shit up. It's got a 1 year warranty.

:werd: :rofl:

GTS Jeff
01-02-2006, 01:14 AM
Contrary to the opinions of the above posters, breaking speakers in isn't about longevity. Rather, speakers' tonal characteristics will change slightly once broken in, and it is desirable to first break in a set of speakers before tuning them to fit the rest of the system.

alpineguy
01-02-2006, 01:38 AM
Yeah breaking in a subwoofer will give it better sound quality, than you just pluging it in and letting it rip. Depending on the make and model of the sub, will determine the time of break in, ie I have two kicker CVR subs and i had to break them in for 8 hours at low bass. Alpine subs will take less time and so one so depending on which make of sub/s you have will determine the time.

googe
01-02-2006, 03:32 AM
contrary to the opinions of the above 2 posters, this guy isnt full of BS ;)



Giles <[email protected]> wrote:
>My question is two fold: why would speakers need breaking in ? Is
>anyone aware of any measurements and tests having being done of before
>and after performance that has shown a measurable difference?

I am aware of at least one person who has done extensive measurements
of this type: me. I have a database of several thousand drivers that I
have measured.

>I have been able to think of only one mechanism attributable to the
>speaker that to me could conceivably be at play if there is indeed an
>effect. It is that the elastomeric materials that form the suspension
>of the cone of a driver are somewhat stiff to start with and become
>more pliant through use, thereby allowing the cones of the drivers to
>move more freely with use.
>I don't believe this though, as an elastomeric material that exhibited
>such a change in properties would surely continue to 'loosen' over
>time so as to go beyond the point of aurally optimum elasticity so
>that there was an eventual degradation in sound quality such as when
>the voice coil made some unwanted high speed excursions into
>stationary bits.

Well, there are, indeed, several mechanism that are, indeed, at work
that cause the operating parameters of drivers to change through use.
However, the notion that once one gets a speaker home it requires
"breaking in" suffers from several problems.

First, as a driver comes off the line, it's actual performance if
fairly far from it's intended performance target. Reasons for this
include the fact that the centering spider, typically manufactured
from a varnish- impregnated linen, is far stiffer than needed. Working
the driver back and forth lossens the spider considerably.

Now, one might say: there's objective proof of the need to "break in"
a loudspeaker! Not so fast. The break-in period for the spider is on
the order of several seconds, and if it takes you several seconds or
minutes or whatever once you get the speakers home to loosen the
centering spdier, it's not proof of the need to break thme in, it's
proof that the speaker you just bought HAS NEVER BEEN TESTED!

But, on to other points.

When I measure a driver, I can see a significant change in a variety
of operating parameters as the speaker is driven. Usually, in woofer,
the resonant frequency drops as the speaker is used, often by as much
as 10-20%. This is due, as you suggest, to a relaxing of the
elastomers used in the suspension.

However. If I turn the stimulus off, within a few minutes most, if not
all, of the change has completely recovered, and we're back to go
again. The elstomer has recovered from it's stresses (this is
especially true of certain polybutadene-styrene surround
formulations).

There are plenty of other, real, physical changes. For example, one
can see a reduction of the electrical Q with time under heavy use,
simply because of the positive temperature coefficient of the
resistance of the voice coil. Allow the speaker to cool down, and it's
completely recoverable.

Get it hot enough, and you might permanently loose some flux density
in the magnet. But you have to get REAL hot to do that. Hotter than
most of the compounds used in making a speaker can endure without
catastrophic failure (damned few glues, varnishes, cones and
insulating materials can withstand the temperatures neede to reach the
Curie points of the typical magnetic materials found in loudspeakers).

>What I really think is at play in all this is the adaptive signal
>processing abilities of the brain. It is not the speakers which get
>broken in, rather it is ones 'ears'.

When this has been suggested, despite the fact there's about a century
of research backing it, it is more often than not greated with jears
and cires. See, you can't sell special "break-in" CD's if the speakers
aren't broken in.

>I would be interested to hear other opinions on this.

Well, there will be loads of opinions. However, actual data on several
thousand drivers don't seem to give two shits about opinions, the
usual claims of "mysterious unmeasurable quantities" notwithstanding.

--
| Dick Pierce |
| Loudspeaker and Software Consulting |
| 17 Sartelle Street Pepperell, MA 01463 |
| (508) 433-9183 (Voice and FAX) |

dj_rice
01-02-2006, 06:28 PM
Originally posted by googe
contrary to the opinions of the above 2 posters, this guy isnt full of BS ;)





Wow I didnt understand half of what that guy was talking about but I'll just listen to it on low for now til winter is over and crank it in the summer :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:


Thanks for all the advice, and I dont have warranty I dont think..bought the subs from Soundsaround, it was a final sale deal...but was super cheap so I cant complain...

Heres them babies...was originally gonna go Type R's but saw the price on these...if the subs suck I can just re-use the nice box
2 - 12" Polk Audio 500W RMS
http://www.circuitcity.com/IMAGE/product/enlarged/plk/EC.PLK.DB212.RT.JPG

Weapon_R
01-02-2006, 07:03 PM
Those are very good subs. The guy was basically telling you what most have been saying in this thread - turn that up and enjoy because there is no such thing as 'breaking' in a subwoofer. The only thing I would do is wait til the car is warm on those -30C nights to help the subs thaw a bit before blasting them.

dj_rice
01-02-2006, 09:45 PM
Originally posted by Weapon_R
Those are very good subs. The guy was basically telling you what most have been saying in this thread - turn that up and enjoy because there is no such thing as 'breaking' in a subwoofer. The only thing I would do is wait til the car is warm on those -30C nights to help the subs thaw a bit before blasting them.


Well thanks for all the info....wont be installing those till winter is over, also have a new amp ready for those subs too...Kenwood Excelon KAC-X521
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0002CNPQ2.01-AIWHEFKG4HT6N._SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

Til then my 2 - JL Audio 10W0's with just a 100Wx2 Channel Boston Acoustics amp will have to do :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: but for such a small amp...it pounds, cant wait to hear the new bad boys

soupey
01-02-2006, 10:33 PM
djrice u wont be disappointed with the polk subs!!, not sure about that amp, might b good or bad, but the subs themselves are awesome!

AllGoNoShow
01-02-2006, 10:46 PM
haha alot of us on here got those polk subs!

dj_rice
01-03-2006, 07:54 PM
Originally posted by AllGoNoShow
haha alot of us on here got those polk subs!



Damn rights for $148 for a nice ass box with 2 - 12" subs already in it is a hell of a deal...I remember seeing these exact ones at the Big 4 Soundsaround Sale last time but it was $248 or something around there...but even if the subs suck..I can still re-use the box and put some Type R's in them...but these arent exactly good on my car wanting a weight reduction...88lbs :eek:

Heres the specs of the amp

165 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
254 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
505 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
stereo or bridged mono output
Peak Power 1000W

Question, the salesmen told me these subs are wired parellel so they run at 2ohms...so I'm assuming I wont be able to get the 505 W RMS @ 4ohms to run this right?Only the 255RMS at 2Ohms?I want to get the full power of the amp into the subs..

AllGoNoShow
01-03-2006, 09:53 PM
Not sure I wouldn't know. I'm not a car audio guy my buddy does al the audio shit for me :D.

xin
01-04-2006, 03:16 AM
Is that the amp the salesman recommended? You could still use the amp. Either bridging it or use only one of the two channels. Either way you will only get about 255 watts RMS. Remember to keep the gains down as well as you will be under-powering the subs. Never played around with Polk Audio but my very first amp was an old school Kenwood Excelon and it was pretty decent.

dj_rice
01-04-2006, 07:43 PM
Originally posted by xin
Is that the amp the salesman recommended? You could still use the amp. Either bridging it or use only one of the two channels. Either way you will only get about 255 watts RMS. Remember to keep the gains down as well as you will be under-powering the subs. Never played around with Polk Audio but my very first amp was an old school Kenwood Excelon and it was pretty decent.


No no, I had bought the amp long time ago, just thought it was too powerful for my JL Audio subs so reason being buyin the Polks...and when I bought the amp..I was under the impression it was 500W RMS, damn salesmen and all that confusing technical lingo he was using..but nothing I can do now...either way...this should sound better than what I"m running now...only have a 100Wx 2CH amp powering the subs lol..weak sauce

xin
01-05-2006, 12:47 AM
Oh ok, cause Salesmen will sell you anything to get a little comission. Ya my first system was also a set of 2 10'' JLw0s in a sealed box powered by a 5 channel Excelon.