Who in Calgary Does JDM engine work? [Archive] - Beyond.ca - Car Forums

TomTom

03-31-2003, 03:59 PM

it will not stop reving from 1000-2500rpm, calgary honda said it was the distro so after trying everyplace in calgary and them looking at there sources i pretty much had to get one built from pieces, and that did not fix it.

a friend cleaned out the throttle to see if it was dirty or somthing didnt work...........??

buh_buh

03-31-2003, 04:07 PM

what do you mean it will not stop revving from 1000-2500rpm? Like once it hits 1000 it will keep going up by itself?

kevie88

03-31-2003, 04:11 PM

hmm, I'm actually a good source of info ;) I've got a JDM motor in my 4th gen as well.

My idle was hunting like mad this weekend (600-1500rpm), and I just turned down the idle slightly and it was happy.
I had turned it up in an effort to get the thing to idle a little smoother (ES motor mounts rule) but I just ended up with the idle problem, so I had to turn it back down,

Is it giving you any codes?

TomTom

03-31-2003, 04:12 PM

no it goes upto 2500 rmp than insta drops back down, than back up and down up and down its driving me fuking nuts ,kevie88 if you got some time id be happy to show you since you in sw.

nothings lighting up (i dont know where codes would show)

kevie88

03-31-2003, 04:19 PM

Hmm, I'll have a look at the service manual and see if there's anything you can try.
When the car throws a check engine light, there's a jumper behind the radio console you jump with a piece of wire, causing the engine light to flash the diagnostic code. If you're engine light isn't on, you're ok there.

Weapon_R

03-31-2003, 04:21 PM

Could it be your clutch slipping really badly?

kevie88

03-31-2003, 04:23 PM

Originally posted by Weapon_R
Could it be your clutch slipping really badly?

hmm, I think he means it's fluctuating at idle. Tom?

TomTom

03-31-2003, 04:29 PM

ya its a constant thing that wont stop, when im off the gas, clutch in or out in N dosnt matter if im not on the gas.......
no engine light

kevie88

03-31-2003, 04:33 PM

ok, I'll see what I can find.. sounds like it might even be something easy like a vacuum leak or something. I'll take a peek at the manual for you and see what I can find. Failing that we could have a peek at it this week sometime if you want!

legendboy

03-31-2003, 04:38 PM

IACV

kevie88

03-31-2003, 04:43 PM

Originally posted by legendboy
IACV

Yep, that was the second thing I was thinking of..

THREE40SEVEN

03-31-2003, 06:35 PM

Originally posted by legendboy
IACV
The idle air control is problematic on fords as well...

redline

03-31-2003, 10:44 PM

I say TPS when i got my TB back from RC It did that and the TPS voltage was wayyyy out

redline

03-31-2003, 10:46 PM

IACV only if it does it when cold. If the problem still there when the car is warm, i would go back to the TPS.

Alpine Autowerks

03-31-2003, 10:49 PM

I'd go with TPS, faulty or out of adjustment

it does not recognize it is @ idle so the speed creeps up until you hit the decel fuel cut...which makes it drop back 2 1000....then it starts to go up again.

Audi Kid

03-31-2003, 11:18 PM

Hey alpine auto works..........you do any work on Audi's? I got a recomendation from a buddy with a 930 turbo..........

legendboy

03-31-2003, 11:37 PM

IACV

^SkylinE^

04-01-2003, 12:49 AM

I think i remember shadowz haveing the same problem when he got his H22 installed maybe ask him!!!

TomTom

04-01-2003, 12:53 AM

ok ivac or tps?? you guys are talking about things i know nothing about, layman terms? and is it easy fixs?

Alpine Autowerks

04-01-2003, 10:15 AM

Originally posted by Audi Kid
Hey alpine auto works..........you do any work on Audi's?........

How does it go on the Midas ad's.....

We do that !

Light_Speed

04-01-2003, 01:11 PM

Originally posted by kevie88
hmm, I'm actually a good source of info ;) I've got a JDM motor in my 4th gen as well.

My idle was hunting like mad this weekend (600-1500rpm), and I just turned down the idle slightly and it was happy.
I had turned it up in an effort to get the thing to idle a little smoother (ES motor mounts rule) but I just ended up with the idle problem, so I had to turn it back down,

Is it giving you any codes?
how do u turn it up or down???

redline

04-01-2003, 01:40 PM

Originally posted by TomTom
ok ivac or tps?? you guys are talking about things i know nothing about, layman terms? and is it easy fixs?

TPS = Throttle postion sensor. On a honda it will be on the throttle body. It will be a black sensor with three wires going to it. the voltage should be between .45 and .49 at idle and no more the 4.5 at WOT. It will be rivited to the TB and normal if the sensor has gone bad it means you by a new TB w/ TPS sensor pre adjusted. You can lightly tap it to try and move sensor and that will effect the voltage reading. If not you could drill the rivits out and install bolts like RC does when you get the TB bored out and adjust the TPS Sensor.

IACV = Idle Air Control valve. Only comes into play on cold start up and If the problem is there when the car is up to temp then this is not the problem.

LUDELVR

04-01-2003, 01:55 PM

I think I may know what your problem is! I had this problem when I disconnected the coolanat lines to throttle body. I did get less heat at the throttle body but my idle sucked ass and was bouncing as you had just described and if I'm not mistakened, the previous owner disconnected the coolant lines to the T.B.

legendboy

04-01-2003, 02:02 PM

I was going to mention that you should check your coolant level

LUDELVR

04-01-2003, 02:06 PM

Originally posted by legendboy
I was going to mention that you should check your coolant level

Dude, you should check your dipstick...I think it's getting pretty fucking dirty!!!!;) :poosie: :poosie: :rofl:

kevie88

04-01-2003, 02:14 PM

Originally posted by Light_Speed

how do u turn it up or down???

I turned the idlescrew clockwise to bring the idle down.

legendboy

04-01-2003, 02:16 PM

Originally posted by LUDELVR

Dude, you should check your dipstick...I think it's getting pretty fucking dirty!!!!;) :poosie: :poosie: :rofl:

hahaha, I'm working on getting up to your level!!! haha :rofl:

But Ya, I'm pretty sure that the honda idle hunting problem is related to the cooling system some how. I had the exact same problem and after I changed the thermo switch-temp sensor and iacv it went away. Either that or there is something wrong with the ecu. (ie. sending the wrong info to the iacv.)

kevie88

04-01-2003, 02:16 PM

Originally posted by redline
It will be rivited to the TB and normal if the sensor has gone bad it means you by a new TB w/ TPS sensor pre adjusted. You can lightly tap it to try and move sensor and that will effect the voltage reading. If not you could drill the rivits out and install bolts like RC does when you get the TB bored out and adjust the TPS Sensor.

Actually, The JDM H22A ones are just bolted in with some Torx screws. The USDM "rivets" are actually bolt/screws too, but they are security type that have a break-off head. They can be finessed out tho.

Tom, I PM'd you!

legendboy

04-01-2003, 02:21 PM

Originally posted by kevie88

I turned the idlescrew clockwise to bring the idle down.

You should unplug the iacv and jump the service connector before you touch the idle screw. tom tom, you have a vafc so you can use the rpm meter to set the idle. when you unplug the iacv, you need to get the car to idle, it will be really low (like 400-500 rpm) then set it to stock, I think its 550rpm or something like that, then shut the car off, un jump the service connector and plug the iacv back in and your idle should be set at around 700-800 rpm. If you dont do it this way the ecu will basically try to over-ride any changes you made based on the information its getting. You can mess it up if that happens.

kevie88

04-01-2003, 02:45 PM

Originally posted by legendboy

You should unplug the iacv and jump the service connector before you touch the idle screw. tom tom, you have a vafc so you can use the rpm meter to set the idle. when you unplug the iacv, you need to get the car to idle, it will be really low (like 400-500 rpm) then set it to stock, I think its 550rpm or something like that, then shut the car off, un jump the service connector and plug the iacv back in and your idle should be set at around 700-800 rpm. If you dont do it this way the ecu will basically try to over-ride any changes you made based on the information its getting. You can mess it up if that happens.

yep, that was the problem I was having when I adjusted my idle, and was the reason I put it back to stock.. everything's working great now. (shoulda looked at the manual BEFORE screwing around :D )

kevie88

04-01-2003, 02:47 PM

Originally posted by LUDELVR
I think I may know what your problem is! I had this problem when I disconnected the coolanat lines to throttle body. I did get less heat at the throttle body but my idle sucked ass and was bouncing as you had just described and if I'm not mistakened, the previous owner disconnected the coolant lines to the T.B.

If that's the case, it'll be a piece of cake! But if this is new phenomenon, I dunno if that's it..

LUDELVR

04-01-2003, 02:59 PM

Originally posted by kevie88

If that's the case, it'll be a piece of cake! But if this is new phenomenon, I dunno if that's it..

what do you know? You don't have a lude....:confused: ;) ;) Um...nevermind!! hahahaha

kevie88

04-01-2003, 03:14 PM

Originally posted by LUDELVR

what do you know? You don't have a lude....:confused: ;) ;) Um...nevermind!! hahahaha

Hey!! Just cause I never get out on Wednesdays doesn't mean I don't still have one!! :D I promise I'll bring it out sometime but I'm embarassed of my Quarter panel rust!! :barf: