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View Full Version : Valve click!! OMG scary? what can i do!



dub_686
05-28-2006, 06:00 PM
Hi, ive only started having vavle clicking happen on me about half a month ago... after that darned Beyond.ca cruze where we went 150 all the way.... my motor obviously wasnt up for it!! haha. anway its ONLY in the mornings when its cold. and lasts for about 20 seconds.. or until i drive up the street, then everything is okay!...

ive got a D15B Non-vtec! Please help me with anything on this particular case!! and if you dont know much about cars shush! because i need some knowhow soo T&T doesnt shaft me when i tell them to adjust my valves and tell me whats wrong. THanks!

calgarys13
05-29-2006, 02:14 PM
sounds like it ticks until it build oil pressure..sounds normal to me

racin_jayson
05-29-2006, 06:30 PM
yeah, relax, its pretty normal as long as it's not super loud
A valve adjustment takes about half an hour and the tool from snap on is 70 bux, which is probably what honda will charge you to do it, my suggestion is buy the tool and you will have it for life, read on how to do the adjustment (EASY) and DIY. that should quiet down the clickity clackers.

freakin
05-29-2006, 08:30 PM
You can even make the tool, or do it without it.....I've done it with just a 10mm socket, a flat screw driver, some feeler gauges and some patience. If that doesn't sound appealing, you can take an old 10mm socket, find an old wrench that just fits around it, and weld it on around the top....instant snap-on rip off, hehe. Thanks to Pat for showing me that one.

Adjustment aside, no one has asked the obvious question. Is your oil low? That will make them louder if there's not enough oil at the top of the engine.

dub_686
05-29-2006, 09:57 PM
I think i found out the problem, it seems my oil filter was filthy, and by filth i mean HEAVY!!! soo i got a brand new fram replacment, and replaced my oil with Quaker State 5w30 High RPM semi-syntec blend. started my car after work today and she purs like a kitten :D just how i like it... my guess, oil was having a hard time feeding to the top of the motor because of the full filter! Thanks guys for your time

freakin
05-29-2006, 10:26 PM
On your next oil change, do yourself a favor and get one from a dealer. They cost a little more, but they're worth it. It'll save you from collapsed filters that Fram is famous for.

Primer_Drift
05-30-2006, 01:42 AM
^^^
Didn't you see the honda-tech exposé where they opened up dealership filter and it was identical to the fram? I'll see if I can find the link..

.. nope can't find it. But I'll tear one apart next time I get one to prove it too haha ;)

djayz
05-30-2006, 06:29 AM
one of you experts want to pm me on how to do a valve adjustment
i have a feeler guage and a 10mm socket just need to know how to do it cuz my valves click like crazy

freakin
05-30-2006, 07:41 AM
Originally posted by Primer_Drift
^^^
Didn't you see the honda-tech exposé where they opened up dealership filter and it was identical to the fram? I'll see if I can find the link..

.. nope can't find it. But I'll tear one apart next time I get one to prove it too haha ;)

that's interesting....I've heard stories of Fram filters collapsing and causing oil pressure fluctuations. I'd love to see that HT thread if you can find it.



Originally posted by djayz
one of you experts want to pm me on how to do a valve adjustment
i have a feeler guage and a 10mm socket just need to know how to do it cuz my valves click like crazy

Here's a link to the tool that I was talking about....I didn't realize it had made it to HT.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=557944
If you look at the pics towards the end, you can see how it works. Basically there's a treaded pin on the rocker arm with a 10mm jam nut. You loosen the nut, then thread the pin down with a screw driver a bit, and keep checking between the rocker arm and the back of the cam lobe with a feeler gauge until it gets snug. Once it's snug (tight, but you shouldn't have to force it in), then tighten the 10mm bolt to lock it. Keep in mind that tightening the 10mm bolt usually turns the pin a little causing it to tighten a little more, and throwing out the clearance. I usually thread the 10mm bolt down by hand, keeping the screwdriver on to minimize it's movement, then tighten it with the 10mm. It will take a little bit of practice until you get a feel for it, but just make sure you check it once it's tight, to ensure you have enough clearance. The snap-on or the home made tool have the advantage of allowing you to keep the screwdriver on the pin while you tighten the bolt to avoid any movement.

Hope that helps.

QuasarCav
05-30-2006, 07:47 AM
It just takes he right feel. My first VA I must have re-did them 4 times to get the lash correct.

I find that a 12mm wrench (dont know why you guys are thinking 10mm) and a simple flat head can do the trick. If you have a flat feeler guage either bend the feelers at a 45 degree angle or buy the ones that are pre-bent.

Put a towel on the front of your car because you will be leaning in all the time. ONLY do the adjustment if your car has been sitting for at least 4 hrs, overnight is best. Try to find a magnetic tray to hold all the valve cover bolts and try not to lose a grommet.

You have adjust in a certain order, 1-3-4-2 and make sure you are a TDC for each cylinder. Re-check each valve after you have re-tightened the adjuster nut. The hard part is tightening the nut down without changing your clearance.



Or you could pay me $40.



:thumbsup:

freakin
05-30-2006, 09:07 AM
^^^^ It's a 10mm on my VTEC heads, maybe the LS heads are different. Either way, the process is the same. I did forget about the TDC on the compression stroke thing. The cams can't be pushing against the rockers, or your clearance will be at zero, and you won't get an accurate measurement.

dj_honda
05-30-2006, 09:11 AM
Originally posted by Primer_Drift
^^^
Didn't you see the honda-tech exposé where they opened up dealership filter and it was identical to the fram? I'll see if I can find the link..

.. nope can't find it. But I'll tear one apart next time I get one to prove it too haha ;)

i've seen it too but can't find the link. i think this applies to the oil filters we get in north american from honda dealers anyways. if you get an s2000 filter, it says made in japan, and has different contents or so i hear from illeagle.

freakin
05-30-2006, 12:24 PM
More links,
Here's a step by step with pics on the valve adjustment on a b-series. Other Hondas are essentially the same, but you'll need to look up the clearance for your motor....and I'm not sure if the firing order is the same....so you will have to adjust them in a different order if that changes:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/valveadjust/valveadjust.php

racin_jayson
05-30-2006, 12:28 PM
Originally posted by QuasarCav
It just takes he right feel. My first VA I must have re-did them 4 times to get the lash correct.

I find that a 12mm wrench (dont know why you guys are thinking 10mm) and a simple flat head can do the trick. If you have a flat feeler guage either bend the feelers at a 45 degree angle or buy the ones that are pre-bent.

Put a towel on the front of your car because you will be leaning in all the time. ONLY do the adjustment if your car has been sitting for at least 4 hrs, overnight is best. Try to find a magnetic tray to hold all the valve cover bolts and try not to lose a grommet.

You have adjust in a certain order, 1-3-4-2 and make sure you are a TDC for each cylinder. Re-check each valve after you have re-tightened the adjuster nut. The hard part is tightening the nut down without changing your clearance.


Or you could pay me $40.



:thumbsup:


This is all good except that valve adjusment must be done with the engine warmed up. (according to my factory service manual) At least for the B16A anyways...