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sh0ko
10-14-2006, 01:12 PM
sop its my first time ever storing a car for the winter and so far.. this is what i know


place the car sitting on cardboard (been told tihs)
full tank of gas
fill up my tires (anybody know how much nexen n3000 tires should be filled to?!)
disconnect bttery
cover it

do i need anti freeze in the lines or anything?!

KenP
10-14-2006, 01:16 PM
Eek, don't store your car with a full tank a gas it will get skunky.

sh0ko
10-14-2006, 01:18 PM
really?! y?!

barbarian
10-14-2006, 01:39 PM
Use fuel stabilizer in the gas.

KenP
10-14-2006, 01:47 PM
Something to do with the chemical make up of gas, it won't last forever. So yes use a stabalizer *never used one my self* or just park your car with no gas in it and bring a some when it's time to wake the beast.

GT-R rated
10-14-2006, 01:49 PM
i've always been told to put a full tank of gas with fuel stabalizer in it, otherwise you have room for condensation to build up in your gas tank, your tire pressures should be marked on the sidewalls, i'd recomend going about 5 psi over the rating to avoid flat spots.

andres_mt
10-14-2006, 01:55 PM
Use gas line antifreeze! You can get a cheap 6-pack of bottles at C-Tire and you put one in your tank run it for a bit every couple of weeks in winter...small price to pay to make sure your fuel lines don't crack or warp if they're old.

Mr.Buffy
10-14-2006, 02:19 PM
This is what I did when I stored my old ITR:

Store it with a full tank of gas + fuel stabilizer.

Wash inside and out.

Changed engine oil.

Put a towel between the wiper and windshield.

Covered up the exhaust opening with a towel.

Parked in neutral, handbrake off, blocks behind a rear tire.

Removed the battery and stored it in my basement.

Put some lubricant on the seals to the doors, hinges, etc.

I didn't put a cover on the car, I guess it could be good or bad. If the car or cover is dirty underneath, it could scratch (maybe?). I also did not start the car at all during the winter. I didn't lose much air in the tires over the winter either. Once in a while, I did open up the doors and hatch to get some fresh air in there.

Hope that helps.

AllGoNoShow
10-14-2006, 04:16 PM
Best way to avoid those flat spots *and yes they happen* is to jack your car up and use jackstands under the car.

Other then that Buffy has it all listed for you.

Mr.Buffy
10-14-2006, 04:19 PM
Good point about the flat spots, I forgot to mention. Either that use jack stands, or if you don't have any, I just pushed my car up a foot or more every month or two, then back again in another month or two. Just so it doesn't sit on the same tire spot for the entire winter.

sh0ko
10-14-2006, 04:36 PM
perfect.. thanx guys so much! gotta kiss the mr2 bye soon *sigh*

kdwebber
10-14-2006, 05:18 PM
It doesn't hurt to add some fuel stabilizer but its not a must. Definetly fill the gas tank to avoid condensation.

I would also recommend putting some steel whool in the exhaust tip to stop rodents from entering your exhaust system.

I'm faily certain you don't have to worry about flat spots with radial tires as that only pertains to byasply tires.

Lots of good info in this thread allready

AllGoNoShow
10-14-2006, 05:44 PM
Nope you still get flat spots on Radial, just not as easy.

Trust me the car sitting in my driveway right now has flatspots and they are radials. Worked on cars that have sat and came in with flat spots, yes those were radials too.

New2Talon
10-15-2006, 01:58 AM
Is there any big difference between parking out on the street and in a garage?

If i park it in the garage, and take her for a spin around the block every couple of weeks (or whenever the roads are dry) would I be ok to leave the tank full? Should I still use fuel stabilizer?

How long before flat spots develop?

msommers
10-15-2006, 02:15 AM
It is better to do as everyone has said and just leave it alone until spring. It will be harder on our engine to cold start it when it is -30 out once a week than never all winter. A car cover is a good idea and same with the cardboard as already mentioned.

Something I picked up on GTRC, instead of using the towel in the muffler, use steel wool, no rodents will go near that shit!

As for the tires I kind of have a question then. If it is up on jack stands, would it be hard on the hubs with the wheels on? So you should remove the wheels entirely (good excuse to rotate :) )?

AllGoNoShow
10-15-2006, 04:07 AM
Originally posted by msommers
It is better to do as everyone has said and just leave it alone until spring. It will be harder on our engine to cold start it when it is -30 out once a week than never all winter. A car cover is a good idea and same with the cardboard as already mentioned.

Something I picked up on GTRC, instead of using the towel in the muffler, use steel wool, no rodents will go near that shit!

As for the tires I kind of have a question then. If it is up on jack stands, would it be hard on the hubs with the wheels on? So you should remove the wheels entirely (good excuse to rotate :) )?

How would it be hard on the hubs?

Your car sits on the hubs, drives on the hubs, parks on the hubs. Why would removing the weight from the wheels/hubs make it hard on them?

msommers
10-15-2006, 11:47 AM
no I was asking if it was better to remove the wheels but apparently it doesn't matter. thanks

Mr.Buffy
10-15-2006, 01:35 PM
And I guess if you are really concerned about rodents and what not getting into your car, I've heard of people tossing some moth balls underneath the car too.

FiveFreshFish
10-15-2006, 02:11 PM
I start mine maybe once every two or three weeks. In Calgary, the temperature rarely gets to -30. If it does, just wait for a chinook before you start it up, or plug in the block heater for a few hours prior to starting. It's not that much wear on the engine if you start it up several times over the winter. Keep in mind that your winter car gets started daily, and it does just fine.

For the tires, overinflate them if you can't raise the car on jackstands. I still move my car around by driving it around the block to minimize flat-spotting. Just remember to adjust to the proper pressure when you take it out of storage mode in the spring.

I throw a trickle charger on the battery every couple of weeks to keep the battery maintained. Easier than pulling it out, and I don't lose the stereo and clock settings.

AllGoNoShow
10-15-2006, 03:03 PM
Carful with those trickles FFF, I don't wanna see your baby on fire next time!

FiveFreshFish
10-15-2006, 03:09 PM
I guess it's not considered a true trickle charger. It's an automatic unit with a 2-amp setting which I leave connected until it shuts off.

AllGoNoShow
10-15-2006, 03:11 PM
aa that works too :P

TEAMFaint
10-15-2006, 03:28 PM
This is what I did last winter with my celica:

Changed over to stock tires, inflated to max PSI + 2 pounds.
Left in neutral
Handbrake Off (A car sitting for that long with the ebrake on is verrrrrrry hard on the ebrake)
Left 1/4 Fuel in the car (I didnt add fuel stabalizer and its amazing how quickly your gas dissapears in the spring when you bring it out and start it, definately add stabalizer)
Blocks behind the rear tires
Disconnected the battery

You can put on a car cover if you want, not really a huge deal though.

I'd definately put it on axle stands if you have access to them.

Also it doesnt hurt to start it a few times in the winter and let it run for a bit so I've been told, I did 3 times total last winter.

Hello November, Goodbye Celica :(

Moe Man
10-16-2006, 02:53 PM
when i want to start my car i leave the heater of for a bit with the engine block heater pluged in also. i try to start it once a week and let it get to full operating temp.

BTW: i have room in my garage for one car, if you are in need for a storage place PM me. :thumbsup:

heavyD
10-16-2006, 03:06 PM
Do not store the car on jack stands!!!!!!!!!!!! Unless possibly bending the frame is more important than flat spots on tires which has never happened to me and I've stored many cars over the winter. Your cars shocks are there to ensure even distribution of weight on the frame as using stands will cause distortion of the frame and no matter how hard you try you will never be able to properly have the car sit evenly on jack stands. Terrible advise.:thumbsdow

nj2Type-S
10-16-2006, 03:24 PM
for the battery, do i have to remove the battery entirely, or can i just disconnect the battery?

also, i'll just be gone for a month and when i come back from my vacation, i plan to start the car once a week every week in the winter. would i still have to follow all those precautions in my situation? thanks!!!

carzcraz
10-16-2006, 03:32 PM
Originally posted by heavyD
Do not store the car on jack stands!!!!!!!!!!!! Unless possibly bending the frame is more important than flat spots on tires which has never happened to me and I've stored many cars over the winter. Your cars shocks are there to ensure even distribution of weight on the frame as using stands will cause distortion of the frame and no matter how hard you try you will never be able to properly have the car sit evenly on jack stands. Terrible advise.:thumbsdow

...that was what I read on another forum too.

msommers
10-16-2006, 06:19 PM
Originally posted by heavyD
Do not store the car on jack stands!!!!!!!!!!!! Unless possibly bending the frame is more important than flat spots on tires which has never happened to me and I've stored many cars over the winter. Your cars shocks are there to ensure even distribution of weight on the frame as using stands will cause distortion of the frame and no matter how hard you try you will never be able to properly have the car sit evenly on jack stands. Terrible advise.:thumbsdow

Wow thanks for the heads up. I had heard so many places referring to put it on jack stands. Makes sense

GT-R rated
10-16-2006, 06:47 PM
Originally posted by nj2Type-S
for the battery, do i have to remove the battery entirely, or can i just disconnect the battery?

also, i'll just be gone for a month and when i come back from my vacation, i plan to start the car once a week every week in the winter. would i still have to follow all those precautions in my situation? thanks!!!

I've always been told to not start the car up unless your going to drive it. To be idling at opperational temperatures for a while isn't effective enough. You need to drive it to get rid of the condensation in your engine. And yeah, no jack stands

kuks
10-16-2006, 07:25 PM
Originally posted by GT-R rated
your tire pressures should be marked on the sidewalls, i'd recomend going about 5 psi over the rating to avoid flat spots.

Please note the tyre pressure marked on the sidewall is the maximum pressure allowable for inflation - this is NOT pressure you should set your tyres to. Consult the owners manual , etc for the correct pressures

AllGoNoShow
10-17-2006, 01:29 PM
kuks this is for winter storage, not for driving on. he is trying to find ways of eliminating flat spots without lifting the vehicle.

New2Talon
10-17-2006, 01:51 PM
Originally posted by New2Talon


How long before flat spots develop?

Mr.Buffy
10-18-2006, 09:15 PM
I also read that you shouldn't start your car in the winter during storage. You are better off to leave it alone completely. My Type R had zero problems starting up again in the spring. I'd get an oil change after you start driving again in the spring.

New2Talon
10-18-2006, 10:18 PM
is it better to add fuel stabilizer when you put her away (and then do you take her out for a spin when its nice, or leave it all winter??) or add a bottle after you take her out in spring (to help with the skunky gas thats been in there all winter)

nj2Type-S
11-08-2006, 09:35 AM
can i just leave my summer tires on my car and over-inflating them? or is it a MUST to change to a set of older tires? thanks!

doublepostwhore
11-08-2006, 09:47 AM
new2talon

fuel stabalizer is a preventitive mesure, you add it to ensure your gas doesnt go skunky. Add it before.

tommy_W201
11-08-2006, 04:31 PM
Everything described before are helpful adivises (except for jack-stands).


Originally posted by nj2Type-S
[B]for the battery, do i have to remove the battery entirely, or can i just disconnect the battery?

If you do not have access to the car for a long time it is an option. Removing the battery protects you from any acid leaks. Anyways, such a defect is very unlikely during storage. However, if it happens corrosion around the battery is quite a pain in the ass then.
You should have your battery also charged to about 1/2 of the capacity. Once it is down there is the risk that lead on the bottom of the battery short-outs the cells. There is no fix for that. You have to get a new battery in that event.

Use silicon to protect all rubber/plastic joints of your car (this also avoids corrosion to some extent next to the rubber joints). You should also renew the corrosion protection of your undercarriage if it is an oldie. I prefer wax based products for that.

Renew the fat on moving parts of your car (e.g. the transmission). Everything that is supposed to move and stands idle for a long time may be subject to rust. Here back home we have a saying "Wo Öl ist, kann kein Rost sein!" (i.e. Everything that is properly oiled will not rust).

M.alex
11-08-2006, 05:17 PM
Some of you get far too picky in storage techniques, hehe

I've stored all my cars (911, g35, mustang, etc... etc..) the same way - full tank of gas (incase I want to spin around on the driveway, hehehe), no cover (why bother, dust will still get in after 6months).

Only special thing I do is I drive up on wooden boards - I was once told that parking on concrete can cause flat spots, while parking on wood won't - don't know if it's a myth or not, but in 8yrs I've never seen a flat spot on any of my cars, which usually sit for 6months, driven maybe 2-3x in that time up/down the driveway for a bit of fun.

I've never had a problem w/ skunky gas tank or anything. I always just start up and go.

carzcraz
11-08-2006, 09:27 PM
I found this post very handy for storing my S2000.

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=247621

nj2Type-S
11-08-2006, 09:59 PM
Originally posted by M.alex

Only special thing I do is I drive up on wooden boards - I was once told that parking on concrete can cause flat spots, while parking on wood won't - don't know if it's a myth or not, but in 8yrs I've never seen a flat spot on any of my cars, which usually sit for 6months, driven maybe 2-3x in that time up/down the driveway for a bit of fun.


what about cardboard? can i place cardboard underneath it? thanks!

Dayclone
11-08-2006, 10:09 PM
Originally posted by nj2Type-S


what about cardboard? can i place cardboard underneath it? thanks!

I don't think cardboard will work since it's too thin and can form well to the floor of the concrete but then again I've never stored my car cause I can't afford to... but my suggestion is go with the wooden blocks.

Steve

nj2Type-S
11-08-2006, 10:16 PM
^ lol, i meant a flattened moving box? what is it about concrete that gives tires flat spots? haha

AllGoNoShow
11-09-2006, 05:22 PM
nj, the weight of your 3000 pound car pushing on 4 points of rubber (flexible) and then not moving and forming that position if they dry out or just form hard spots. Which ends up needing new tires in spring :thumbsdow

andres_mt
11-11-2006, 01:25 PM
Anything else you can do to prevent tire flat spots besides jacking the car up?

Daxin
11-11-2006, 01:30 PM
You can fill the tires to the msx psi and once a month, move the car an inch.

andres_mt
11-11-2006, 02:15 PM
anybody heard of tire cradles?? and where you can get them?

Wilson
01-08-2007, 05:05 AM
Do any of you guys put a tarp under your car so moisture doesnt build up?

djayz
01-08-2007, 06:47 AM
so putting the car up on jackstands isnt a good idea?

damn it that means i have to take mine down :(

Supa Dexta
01-08-2007, 11:56 AM
god this isn't rocket science.. when we talk cardboard, we mean thick layers of it, not the thin shit you get from groceries packages... layer it up if you have like pizza box thickness.. the thicker the better, just to provide some cusion, and keep the cold dry floor off the tires directly...

if you have space you can push your car ahead a foot, back a foot every couple of weeks, just to take the pressure off of that certain spot...

FILL THE TANK, this is best all the time, not just when stored, keeps it from corroding, and stabilizer only costs like 5$...

pull the battery if you want, store it in a semi warm (, dry spot thats not freezing, but not hot, less then room temp is fine) I've had one sitting for a few months now, wasn't charged any extra after taking it out, and it's still showing 12.8v...

etc...