want my car to make more Heat!

[shakil]

K so i have a crx that the previous owner unplugged a few parts of the heating system so i have tried to put it back together

list of things i've done. ( since my new swap dohc zc )

waterpump ( on car install )
thermostat ( when my coolant line was leaking )
i changed the heater control ( knobs from hot to cold etc )
and I re-routed the coolant line that goes to the heatercore which it wasn't connected upon eng install.

I get little heat, however when i floor it, typically i feel more heat, but i'd prefer nice good heat all the time

Anyone can offer a hand? any after market parts i can do? or some diagnosis' of some parts? Let me know!! thanks

Shak

[QuasarCav]

Cardboard in front of the rad.

[Zero102]

How is your engine temp? How well the heater works is directly dependent on how hot the engine is. If your engine is not heating up properly then expect virtually no heat.

[TurboMedic]

Also consider the reason the heater core wasn't connected in the first place. Maybe its clogged and not circulating properly? Maybe it leaks? I used to have problems with small displacement cars and heating, cardboard works, just be careful of overheating when idling then. Your car shouldn't have a problem tho, even my GF's EG heats up fine.

[sputnik]

Replace or clean your heater core. They can get REALLY clogged and end up useless.

If you try to clean it, remove it, flush it clean with hot water and then rinse it with muriatic acid. However you cant just let the acid sit in it because it can eat a hole through the core. So keep it moving by rocking it back and forth gently. You should be able to get TONS of crap out.

Keep in mind that the muriatic acid can result in a premature leak which can be a big PITA if it leaks in the winter (greasy foggy windows).

Your best bet is still to just buy a remanufactured core. It shouldnt cost more than $100.

[shakil]

does anyone know an on EF ( crx ), the heater core is easily accessible?

[GTS Jeff]

You can take this as far as you want...

-thorough cooling system flush, including heater core. Just have the heat on max when doing the flush. Thorough flush is the key here.
-If the core is totally screwed, you can buy a new one too.
-adjust all your cables. Not sure how the CRX cables work, but they either open a water valve to the heater core (make sure it opens all the way) or they adjust a flap diverting air through the heater core (make sure it opens/closes all the way.)
-replace thermostat with Genuine Honda OEM, as aftermarket ones suck

[mo_money2supe]

Originally posted by GTS Jeff
-replace thermostat with Genuine Honda OEM, as aftermarket ones suck

I agree. I had the same problem with an aftermarket thermostat from PartSource installed onto my car - a brand new one too - but still had no heat. I then spent twice the amount on an OEM one, and voila, instant heat! No overheating issues either. I changed my rad cap to an OEM also 'cause it seemed like the PartSource one (new as well), already developed a leak/loss of pressure after only a week's usage.

[whiskas]

Originally posted by shakil
does anyone know an on EF ( crx ), the heater core is easily accessible?

On most cars its a bitch to get to, you have to take apart the entire dash to get to it.

[shakil]

what about any tests for the thermostat or water pump??

What i meant by this, i meant any home tests??
my car still bounces idle and i havent figure it out yet, could that be any reason??

[kdwebber]

I had the same probelm with my zc crx. That engine always ran really cold.

[ogpog]

Even my 06 civic is a bitch to get heat out of sometimes.:(

[GTS Jeff]

Originally posted by shakil
what about any tests for the thermostat or water pump??

What i meant by this, i meant any home tests??
my car still bounces idle and i havent figure it out yet, could that be any reason?? If you're going to go to the trouble to Re+Re the thermostat, you might as well buy a new one (they are cheap, probably even cheaper than you.) The time you waste "testing" your bunk thermostat could be used working and making the dough to buy a new thermostat. What brand is your old one? Is it OEM or jobber?

Oh yeah, forgot to add...if you want to make your car more heat...add a banner that says, "fuck the police!"

[shakil]

replaced by " crappy tire"

im gonna take a wild guess no not oem

[Jackc]

Does anyone know roughly how much it would be for a new heater core install included ?

[GTS Jeff]

Originally posted by shakil
replaced by " crappy tire"

im gonna take a wild guess no not oem Geez yeah, you shouldn't EVER let the monkeys at Shitty Tire touch your car.

[shakil]

ya no kidding.. shit they fucked up on one of my rear brakes.. one side grabs the disc.. the other i could spin the tire freely while the ebrake is jacked up high LOL

oh well.. ya learn from mistakes.. but.. would a " cheap " one compared to a OEM thermostat make that much of a difference? If so, why?

[Tik-Tok]

Originally posted by shakil
what about any tests for the thermostat or water pump??

What i meant by this, i meant any home tests??
my car still bounces idle and i havent figure it out yet, could that be any reason??


Make sure those monkey's didn't install your thermostat upside down.

If you want to test to see if it works, take it out, and put it in a bucket of boiling water, it should open quickly.

If your waterpump wasn't working, you'd see it on your temperature gauge, your motor would run very hot and start running very rough.

[shakil]

I may have to try that out.. i have afeeling they did that too fack...

hmm.. any other ideas?? cardboard is slightly warmer.. but at slow driviing speeds its weak sauce..

[zhulander]

set it to recirculating air

[msommers]

Originally posted by Jackc
Does anyone know roughly how much it would be for a new heater core install included ?

A lot, it's a big job. Learn your car if you can use a wrench and a screwdriver. The heater core itself isn't expensive but the labour is what will kill you.

[Moe Man]

Originally posted by TurboMedic
Also consider the reason the heater core wasn't connected in the first place. Maybe its clogged and not circulating properly? Maybe it leaks? I used to have problems with small displacement cars and heating, cardboard works, just be careful of overheating when idling then. Your car shouldn't have a problem tho, even my GF's EG heats up fine.

the car wouldnt overheat when idling if you had cardboard infront of the rad. It would over heat when you are driving:rofl:

[Moe Man]

Originally posted by Tik-Tok



Make sure those monkey's didn't install your thermostat upside down.

If you want to test to see if it works, take it out, and put it in a bucket of boiling water, it should open quickly.

If your waterpump wasn't working, you'd see it on your temperature gauge, your motor would run very hot and start running very rough.

or

pinch the rad hose for a bit and you should feel a rapid pressure build up when the thermostat opens.

[D. Dub]

If you are sure the thermostat works--

the next thing you want to do is go to a good radiator shop and have them do a chemical flush of your system---might be all it needs

other problems may be a totally plugged core - replace

another problem may be that the air blend doors under your dash may be broken or sticking

[shakil]

ya im gonna see if they got the thermostat up side down

do i have to drain anything to take the thermostat out??

does anyone know if a DOHC zc thermostat is the same as a d16a6 thermostat? That might also be the problem if its different
either its for a civic/crx or 2nd gen integra... would it matter??

[heavyD]

Originally posted by GTS Jeff

-replace thermostat with Genuine Honda OEM, as aftermarket ones suck

I've replaced so many jobber thermostats that have stuck open. Always buy OEM thermostats!

[ogpog]

:werd: to the above. I dont know what it is, but i always had issues with shitty 'stats I picked up from canadian tire to throw in the 4.2L last year. I only eliminated my problems by going back to OEM.

[GTS Jeff]

Originally posted by shakil
ya im gonna see if they got the thermostat up side down

do i have to drain anything to take the thermostat out??

does anyone know if a DOHC zc thermostat is the same as a d16a6 thermostat? That might also be the problem if its different
either its for a civic/crx or 2nd gen integra... would it matter?? Yes, drain your rad before working...it's easy. There should a knob somewhere at the bottom of your rad. If the fluid is dirty, now is a good time do a good flush too. Always use the right thermostat for your car.

[VF-1A]

Make sure you have your in and out heater core lines hooked up properly. If it's a gravity fed core, it might not be getting the enough flow from the engine. A flush is a good idea too. Inexpensive yet effective, CLR. Eats the calcium that always plugs coolant systems and won't kill your engine if you don't get all of it out.


Originally posted by GTS Jeff
Geez yeah, you shouldn't EVER let the monkeys at Shitty Tire touch your car.
AAAAMMMMEN!!!!!!!!


Originally posted by Tik-Tok

Make sure those monkey's didn't install your thermostat upside down.

If the stat was upside down he would know immediately. Not only is it unlikely to physically put it in upside down, the car would overheat almost right after achieving operating temp.

If you want to test to see if it works, take it out, and put it in a bucket of boiling water, it should open quickly.

At this altitude thats a myth.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Moe Man

pinch the rad hose for a bit and you should feel a rapid pressure build up when the thermostat opens.

If the rest of the cooling system is working properly and no leaks, there should be pressure at ALL times when the engine is at operating temp.The stat opens and closes so frequently and quickly that test would be impossible to check that accurately


Originally posted by heavyD


I've replaced so many jobber thermostats that have stuck open. [B]Always buy OEM thermostats!

I guess i won't tell you about how OEM thermostats are made by aftermarket companies then.

[shakil]

ok.. well lets say by chance dthe hose from the engine into the heater core ( that hose that goes through a lever to control the flow of the coolant -on/off ) if it a little kinked, would that do anything to produce heat?

I thought , ( sorry if im not so litterate with heating system ) coolant would need to go in the heater core to stop the heat from coming in.. how that works, i dunno but that was just the idea..

so a flush maybe just the thing to clean my heater core?
how often do those stupid things go bad?? i've had like 3 hondas before and none had this issue.. all high mileage old cars too

[lbrowne]

Doesn;t suck when you find out about your no heat issues when its -40 out??

My 90 240sx which I've already replaced the t-stat on (yes it was one from AutoValue or whatever), anyways my gauge will reach optimum temps but the air coming out is not hot. Its enough to keep the windows defrosted, but not enough for me to undo my coat.

My garage isn't done yet so I really don't want to try and swap it out for another one right now. Too cold out. I'm tempted to get my next t-stat right from nissan but I can only imagine the price on that sucker. :eek:

[Supa Dexta]

that sounds like your heater core.. if its blowing cool air with a new t stat

[johnboy27]

either open a water valve to the heater core (make sure it opens all the way)
Big problem on 3rd and 4th gen civics and all CRX's. If you don't know where it is just follow the coolant lines running into the heater core,there should be a black plastic box on the coolant line. Pop the box off and then have somebody sit in the car and switch from hot to cold for you. If the cable moves but the screw doesn't then the ball valve inside isn't turning and is probably set to half way open . Use a screw driver to turn the screw until you get heat or disconnect the hose at the valve and look into it and make sure it is wide open.

[lbrowne]

Originally posted by Supa Dexta
that sounds like your heater core.. if its blowing cool air with a new t stat

I think by maybe next week I'm going to do a coolant system flush. This car sat for over a year untouched when I got it. So it had a few quirks here 'n there.

[shakil]

so essentially... the heater core must have coolant in it to create heat is that im understanding? I should just bypass that lil stupid valve doo-hicky.. and get a pipe that will go straight from the block to the pipe that goes straight into the firewall, and into the heater core??

Let me know someone if thats how a heater core works and i'll get another pipe to see if that works


hey Lbrowne.. ure lucky.. my heat is so cold.. ALL my windows are frosted ... the joy..

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

Mine used to blow how about a month ago. Now it's lukewarm unless it's on recirc... then it's slightly above lukewarm. I'm gonna doube check the thermostat, and if not try the heater core... hopefully... any other suggestions?

[msommers]

Make sure your two heater hoses arn't clogged up badly or cut/cracked.

[barbarian]

Originally posted by shakil
so essentially... the heater core must have coolant in it to create heat is that im understanding? I should just bypass that lil stupid valve doo-hicky.. and get a pipe that will go straight from the block to the pipe that goes straight into the firewall, and into the heater core??

Let me know someone if thats how a heater core works and i'll get another pipe to see if that works


hey Lbrowne.. ure lucky.. my heat is so cold.. ALL my windows are frosted ... the joOy..

Oh yeah, it must have coolant going through it for you to get heat. The coolant is for cooling the engine, and coincidentally it gets hot and you can use it for interior heat. There's no electric heating or anything going on here.

[shakil]

ok now this makes more sense.. now.. if my hoses were kinked ( not perfectly straight rounded hoses ) and were kinked around when u have to make the hoses turn a lil.,. would that cause it to not produce heat anymore?? seeing that it might be kinked enough for the coolant to not be able to get into the heater core?

Is there pressure going from the eng to the heater core hose?
If not, then i think i found my problem. I'll see if i swap that hose to see if it works.. Lets just hope so

[shakil]

ok well i by-passed the valve to open n close the heatercore, and went straight from the engine to the heater core. Still not so much heat.. i would say a little bit more.. but can't really say as today was warmer than the last few days..

so can anyone relate to what else it could be other than the heater core?

Or is it finally time to say that the problem is the heater core?? lol

i still havent' checked the thermostat as im not too sure how to
disconnect it
should i just get a oem one first or check the t-stat first?