Official AP1/AP2 Thread

[shox]

I think shadowz is asking for $850, I'm not 100%. Best PM him for more information.

I think he has a few stock parts for sale too. Again, PM him for more info.

[Weapon_R]

Anyone have a stock deck for sale? Mine needs a code and Honda can't seem to get me the right one, I'm sick of driving without a stereo.

[dimi]

When I got my car from Cali and reset the ECU subsequently I had the same problem. In the glovebox I found a white sticker with about an 8 digit code (not too sure about how many digits) it had letters and numbers. Called the california dealership that sold the car to the previous owner and gave them the code. They then gave me the corresponding radio code.

Good Luck

[shox]

Originally posted by Weapon_R
Anyone have a stock deck for sale? Mine needs a code and Honda can't seem to get me the right one, I'm sick of driving without a stereo.

I got one for $50. I just need to look for the code...I never used it before.

[S2K2]

any one know what a boost ap1 will run on a 1/4 mile

[drifttube123]

I think the code for the stock deck is the last 4 digits of the Vin #, as long as the came with the car.

[xviper]

Originally posted by S2K2
any one know what a boost ap1 will run on a 1/4 mile
This is a loaded question since there are as many answers as there are running parameters. 1/4 miles times depend on the amount of boost and the state of tune of the car (ie, the WHP), the type of tires used, the altitude of the track, the condition of the track, the ambient temp at the time, the humidity at the time, the atmospheric pressure at the time.
I have seen a turbo S2000 run in the 9's but that one was not a true reflection of what you would find on the street. A typical 300 whp S2000 running at sea level under average ambient conditions have been known to run the 1/4 at around 12.9, but again, this will never be reproducable at altitude.

[xviper]

Originally posted by drifttube123
I think the code for the stock deck is the last 4 digits of the Vin #, as long as the came with the car.
I'm afraid this is not the case. The code for the stock HU is generally a 5 digit code (all numeric) and bears no resemblance to the car's VIN. Otherwise, it wouldn't be much of an anti-theft feature, would it?
If you pull the serial number off the back of the HU and take it to the dealer and as long as you can prove you didn't steal it, they can look up the code for you (for a fee), unless you have a car that was brought in from another country.

[S2K2]

we should organize a s2k meet some time after the end of the month

[gpomp]

Originally posted by S2K2
any one know what a boost ap1 will run on a 1/4 mile depends on the length of your injector pulse but most likely 10s

[S2K2]

Shit I can't wait till it is done

[dimi]

Assuming you got an AP1 with KW, you'll be lucky to get into 12s. Learn how to launch the car properly or it will be in the shop with a broken diff very fast.

[xviper]

Originally posted by dimi
Assuming you got an AP1 with KW, you'll be lucky to get into 12s. Learn how to launch the car properly or it will be in the shop with a broken diff very fast.
AT 3500' elevation and the low boost KW, an S2000 will run mid-13's. If he can't launch, he'll do 14.xx But then, if he can't launch it right, like you said, the diff is gonzo anyway. There also has to be an understanding about fluid changes and how heat is generated and how this relates to diff health.

[S2K2]

i have not driven my car yet what do u recomend for a launch point to maintain longest diff life

[xviper]

Originally posted by S2K2
i have not driven my car yet what do u recomend for a launch point to maintain longest diff life
Again, another very difficult question to answer. It all depends on the final output of your engine, the type and condition of tires you have and the road surface conditions at the time. The key is to release the clutch as fast as possible so the clutch has very little time to slip and thus, break the rear tires loose immediately. Too low an rpm and you risk lugging the engine and hurting the drivetrain. Too high an rpm and you risk burning up the clutch if you don't release quickly enough or you risk making the tires go up in smoke if you do. Launching an S2000 is one of the most difficult things to do correctly. It's far easier on almost any other performance car.

[S2K2]

yea i noticed that wen i had the stock engine what do u recomend for shifting at what rpm for normal day driving

[xviper]

Hehe, most of your questions have no clearly definable answer. It all depends on what you're trying to do. If you are just poking along and in no big hurry, you can short shift it at 3000 rpm if you have good clutch and throttle control. "Normal" driving in the city, without drawing attention to yourself, you can shift anywhere between 4000 to 5500 rpm. Again, it depends on what the speed limit is that you are speeding up to and how quickly you want to get there.

[S2K2]

hahah yea thats understandable i guess i will just play it by ear... cant wait for the bov it is sopoused to be loud hahah cant wait to bov ppl not expecting it like ppl on bikes hahaha

[shadowz]

For the deck code I know for a fact honda needs the serial number from the bottom of the deck to get you the code. With honda for some reason the VIN doesn't cut it.

[Weapon_R]

Yeah I think thats what it's going to come to because we tried to use the code taped to the console and it wouldn't work. I'll have to rip out the factory stereo.

If I didn't use the dash controls so much I would have bought an aftermarket deck a long time ago...

EDIT: Just pulled the stereo out and the serial # doesn't even match the one in the console :banghead: Hopefully we'll get the right code tomorrow!

[xviper]

Originally posted by Weapon_R
If I didn't use the dash controls so much I would have bought an aftermarket deck a long time ago...
This is not a big problem. The dash controls can easily be kept and even enhanced if you get the "Modifry DCI unit" and plug and play harness for any one of several brand name aftermarket decks - Alpine, JVC, Sony, etc. People (myself included) have been using this for years.

[S2K2]

how would you set it up I have a touchscreen navi and I can't use my dash controls I wan them back

[xviper]

Originally posted by S2K2
how would you set it up I have a touchscreen navi and I can't use my dash controls I wan them back
Is the navi also a stereo? You will never operate the navi part of the HU and depending on the brand of HU, you may get the dash controls back. Modifry sells both "wired" and "IR" DCI units for certain brands of HU. If your HU uses a remote, you may find an IR DCI that works. Go to his site and see if your HU is on his list.
http://modifry.com/products/dci/index.htm

A professional car audio shop should also be able to custom rig something.

[gpomp]

i have a modifry dci + harness that i don't use anymore if anyone wants to buy it

[S2K2]

how much u willing to sell for will it work with a pioneer headunit

[gpomp]

Originally posted by S2K2
how much u willing to sell for will it work with a pioneer headunit it works with pioneer and sony. i'll let it go for $90 with the harness

[INeedBoost]

Anyone get that rip in their soft top from wear? Wondering how others around here dealt with that.

Village Honda quoted me $1800 to get a new soft top installed! Cant dish that out right now. Any good upholstery shop recommendations? Any good self fixes that are holding up?

[shadowz]

Depending on the year of your vehicle I would try to warranty the top. Other than that I have seen many aftermarket replacement tops. The other option would be to find a used top.

[INeedBoost]

Bought it off someone on Beyond who got it from US car so I don't think I can warranty it. Any hard top guys have a softop with glass they want to get rid of? :D

[shadowz]

I will be ripping one out from a 02 model with glass fairly soon here. Also I will be selling the one from my 00 model when I have it out later this month if anyone is interested

[S2K2]

why not just upgrade to a hard top!!! i just cant justify spending the money wen i dont need it right away so untill mine gets fucked convertible Yea!!

[drifttube123]

Does anyone know the difference between the J's Ti exhausts: 70RR vs 70RS?

Thanks

[shadowz]

RR non resonated loud race version
RS same 70mm with a resonator

[drifttube123]

Thanks Shadowz.


FYI,
I few guys from S2ki want to meet up @ Peters tonight between 8:45-9.15 for a meet and greet if anyone is interested.

[Skyline_Addict]

^^ cool.

any other beyonders going?

[drifttube123]

Edit: They'll be there at 8:30, possibly a cruise at 9:15.

[zain123]

see u guys there
i have a feeling its guna be hella busy

[Skyline_Addict]

good showing tonight. I think we had 7-8 cars out tonight! if we can get the rest of the beyonders and more s2ki guys to come out i'm sure we could have 20ish!

thanks again to willis for letting beyond.ca know about it.

[zain123]

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm14/zainarshad/IMG_8858.jpg

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm14/zainarshad/IMG_8859.jpg

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm14/zainarshad/IMG_8856.jpg

[S2K2]

fuck i wish i could have come still waiting for my ride to get finished

[S2K2]

we should have a meet some time next month and fill the ap1 parking in chinook mall

[euro_racer]

does anyone have a cold air intake or an aftermarket exhaust for sale?

[zain123]

i pm'd u euro_racer
and am down for meets anywhere lol
unemployed !! got a shit load of time

[S2Kok]

wierd topic here, but what would a good asking price be for the following:

2003 Berlina Black Ap1 - 100% stock - mint condition - 60,000 kms.

Car is originally from Seattle. - No mechanical issues or anything, everything checked out top notch.

Just trying to feel what its worth on this side of the border?

A buddy of mine imported one at the beginning of summer and just sold it for $20k and he is still getting calls on it.

Would that be a good fair price considering the car is in pristine shape in and out?

[Jlude]

sounds like a good deal

[S2K2]

alright well as soon as i get my car back zain123 i will pm u and maybe try and get some others to meet i really wanna fill the ap1 parking in chinook it would be amazing hahah

[S2Kok]

Anyone interested in some OEM Ap2 items?

I know there is a market place, but thought I would just post up in here first to see if there is any interest before I take them to the marketplace.

Parts are from a 2004 Ap2 with onlyu 52,000 kms

OEM Ap2 exhaust - great condition
OEM Ap2 cat. - great condition
OEM Ap2 V1 wheels and tires - wheels mint, tires have lots of tread left - Hankook Ventus VS ES are the tires.

thanks.

[drifttube123]

How much for the Wheels?

[A2VR6]

Yes... how much for the wheels and tires?

[Weapon_R]

How much for the exhaust? Mine's about to fall apart.

[S2Kok]

PM' sent

[dimi]

Anyone know where i can source a right rear knuckle. Honda dealership doesn't have any so it'll have to be ordered from Japan and it comes Aug 15 :banghead:

[dimi]

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=716902

[Skyline_Addict]

Hey guys, up for sale are my Volk CE28N in bronze. Specs are:

17x7.5 +50 fronts
17x9 +63 rears

These are considered your "standard oem" offsets, so the wheels sit in the fender very similar to stock. No fender rolling is required, although I do recommend modifying the front fenders slightly, if you plan to track the car.

Pics in here:

http://forums.beyond.ca/st/269259/terences-2004-honda-s2000-project-thread/

Looking for 1900 for wheels only. Tires, centercaps and lug nuts not included. If you want tires included (Bridgestone Potenza Re-11), we can talk more. Please PM me.

[S2Kok]

For those somewhat "newer" S2K owners - just a word of advice.... if your planning on modding the car, you better be willing to spend the cash. Nothing for this car is cheap! :thumbsup:

[drifttube123]

Fiction point on my Ap1 is very high, does anyone know if it is adjustable? There is not chatter or slippage so I don't think the clutch is dying.

Thanks

[shadowz]

Originally posted by S2Kok
For those somewhat "newer" S2K owners - just a word of advice.... if your planning on modding the car, you better be willing to spend the cash. Nothing for this car is cheap! :thumbsup:

This is true

[xviper]

Originally posted by drifttube123
Fiction point on my Ap1 is very high, does anyone know if it is adjustable? There is not chatter or slippage so I don't think the clutch is dying.

Thanks
If it's too high, there is a reason why it's high. You need to find out why. Yes, there is an adjustment but it's only a temporary band-aid for another issue. You adjust it to reverse a previous inappropriate adjustment or you adjust it to give you some time to replace a worn out clutch. Then you need to adjust it back after the clutch job. There may be no chatter or slippage but that doesn't mean your clutch isn't on it's last bit of friction material. Depending on how you drive, the clutch disc can be wearing into the rivets and you will not get and symptoms. Leave it too late and you'll be buying a new flywheel and pressure plate as the rivets will ruin those.
You might want to do a clutch fluid change and clean/polish/lubricate the ball of the slave cylinder plunger and the socket of the relears fork BEFORE you go adjusting the clutch pedal. Many have regretted ever touching that adjustment.
There's a lock nut on the pedal end of the rod that goes into the firewall under the dash. Unlock it and twist the rod to give it more "throw", lock it down, go for test drive. Do no more than 1 full twist at a time.

[dimi]

^^^^

Yea check your fluid. Mine was out when I first found out I had to regularly check it. If its out or low there is air in the system, and it will require bleeding.

If its been low for a while there is a chance the clutch master cylinder is toast. I had to replace mine and its a pain cause of the lack of space. Look under the dash on top of your clutch pedal. There should be a piston there that is pushed when the clutch is depressed. If it's leaking, that's your problem. About $170.


PS: I wouldn't bother adjusting it too much. These things stay within spec most of the time. The engagement point changes mostly due to air in the system or when it starts leaking.

[xviper]

A leaking master clutch cylinder or excessive air/water in the system generally makes for a low friction point, not a high one as in Drifttube's case.

[shadowz]

Originally posted by xviper

If it's too high, there is a reason why it's high. You need to find out why. Yes, there is an adjustment but it's only a temporary band-aid for another issue. You adjust it to reverse a previous inappropriate adjustment or you adjust it to give you some time to replace a worn out clutch. Then you need to adjust it back after the clutch job. There may be no chatter or slippage but that doesn't mean your clutch isn't on it's last bit of friction material. Depending on how you drive, the clutch disc can be wearing into the rivets and you will not get and symptoms. Leave it too late and you'll be buying a new flywheel and pressure plate as the rivets will ruin those
.


JKL@STRD just had the same issue, the engagment was very high, turned out to be the pressure plate failing, he had done a full clutch replacement all back to normal.

[drifttube123]

Thanks again all.

I was reading in this forum that the AP1 pressure plate has some weak springs that causes the buzz on deceleration. So If I did the whole clutch job, what would be a ball park figure? Should I get a lighter flywheel too?

Thanks

[shadowz]

Originally posted by drifttube123
Thanks again all.

I was reading in this forum that the AP1 pressure plate has some weak springs that causes the buzz on deceleration. So If I did the whole clutch job, what would be a ball park figure? Should I get a lighter flywheel too?

Thanks

Call Speedtech ask for Jackie, they offer Exedy, ACT, Clutchmasters, Spoon I could go on. They can get you a quote on labour as well. You can machine the flywheel as long as it is servicable. If not go with a replacement.

[xviper]

Originally posted by drifttube123
Thanks again all.

I was reading in this forum that the AP1 pressure plate has some weak springs that causes the buzz on deceleration. So If I did the whole clutch job, what would be a ball park figure? Should I get a lighter flywheel too?

Thanks
You have been misled by what you read. The clutch decel buzz is not the pressure plate, nor is the pressure plate on the AP1 weak so long as you don't go boost.
The buzz you hear on deceleration is the clutch disc springs rattling. The transmission has a natural amount of backlash and upon deceleration, rotational forces go in reverse from the drive tires back upstream along the drivetrain, through the transmission and into the clutch. Between certain rpms on deceleration, a harmonic vibration develops due to the tranny backlash. This harmonic heads towards the engine. The clutch disc springs is where the vibration manifests itself in the form of an audible sound. It's only a sound and has absolutely no adverse affect on the operation of the car. Honda upgraded the disc springs in the AP2 so they don't make the same sort of sound when they vibrate.
A complete clutch job using OEM parts can cost you around $1500.00+ parts and labour. If you start putting in exotic aftermarket parts, the price goes up from there. This is one of the harder cars to do a clutch job on.

[S2Kok]

xviper,

in your above statement, you said the ap1 flywheel is not weak as long as you dont go boost? As per our conversation, would you advise me then to not use a resurfaced ap1 flywheel for my boosted application?

thanks.

[xviper]

Originally posted by S2Kok
xviper,

in your above statement, you said the ap1 flywheel is not weak as long as you dont go boost? As per our conversation, would you advise me then to not use a resurfaced ap1 flywheel for my boosted application?

thanks.
Actually, the part being discussed was the pressure plate. I said the "pressure plate" is not weak if you stay NA. If you go boost, then you need a heavy duty pressure plate. Whether or not you go with the stock flywheel and stock clutch disc is up to you and your budget and your planned use for the car. As you know, I've got the Comptech lightweight flywheel and the OEM clutch disc. This combination has worked very well for me. I could have just as easily gone with the stock flywheel and re-surfaced my old one. It was only because Hardtopguy had all these parts as a "kit" for quite a good price that I elected to go that route.
For FI, really all you need is the HD PP. The rest can be stock. If you are going to drag race a lot, then you might consider one of the "ON/OFF" type of puck clutches like the Exedy. This would make the car less streetable but not impossible.

Here's my reminder to you about putting in a clutch/starter interlock defeat switch so you can do the first cold start of the day without touching the clutch.
http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=31058&highlight=clutch+starter+interlock

For those who weren't in on this conversation, the reason for this defeat switch is to address the concerns of those who fear that the HD PP may cause abnormal wear on the thrust washer on the S2000 crank. This washer is something that may (or may not) be responsible for "crank walk" in the S2000. It relies upon oil drain back for lubrication. That is, oil must be pumped to the top of the engine, then drain back down and drip onto the washer. On the first cold start of the day, the layer of oil on the washer is the thinnest it will ever be. It can take between 1 to 2 minutes for drain back oil to properly coat this washer.

[euro_racer]

i have a custom single exhaust, its a cat delete aswell, it was on my buddys s2k a while ago, its sounds perfect, was cut in 2 places for storage reasons so it just has to be welded back

im only asking $200 for it

also a AEM cold air intake for $150

[dimi]

Originally posted by xviper
For those who weren't in on this conversation, the reason for this defeat switch is to address the concerns of those who fear that the HD PP may cause abnormal wear on the thrust washer on the S2000 crank. This washer is something that may (or may not) be responsible for "crank walk" in the S2000. It relies upon oil drain back for lubrication. That is, oil must be pumped to the top of the engine, then drain back down and drip onto the washer. On the first cold start of the day, the layer of oil on the washer is the thinnest it will ever be. It can take between 1 to 2 minutes for drain back oil to properly coat this washer.

Definitely do this. It takes 2 mins to bridge the connectors, and adds a piece of mind when you starting in -30. North America is the only market that has this stupid switch, for very obvious reasons.

[S2K2]

any suggestions on a rear bumper or should i go with the carbon trunk??

[xviper]

Originally posted by S2K2
any suggestions on a rear bumper or should i go with the carbon trunk??
What is your goal? AP2 rear bumper? Aftermarket rear bumper? As for a CF trunk, I have yet to see one that doesn't bow in the side edges from the upward pressure of the trunk springs. The resulting gap is terrible.

[S2Kok]

Im sure this has been asked before, but can anyone in here roll fenders or have a fender roller I can borrow / rent?

I would like to roll my fenders with someone who has experience and is willing to go sloooow and take the time to minimize the possibility of cracking.

Any help and input would be great.

Thanks.

[S2K2]

well i am not sure that i am lookin for i ahve the veilside back lip kit on it riight now but it has melted due to the heat and angle one side of the exhaust was one so i am looking for somethin a little bit aggressive but nothing to crazy would prefer a lip nothing fiberglass

[JKL@STRD]

theres a meet going on soon.. hope to see you guys there:thumbsup:


http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=721883

[zain123]

thanks for posting
i must have missed it on s2ki
:thumbsup:

[drifttube123]

Brought my car in the dealership today because of a click sound when starting off. I had read a bunch of treads on this issue, I mentioned to them that there was a TSB issed on this. The dealership said it was only valid in the US.
Basically they still charged me 60 is diagnose, and 236 labor to fix (both sides, although I think it was only the drivers side making the sound), no new parts were needed. Was this a fair price? Some threads have said the dealership only charged $80 (USD) for this (probably for only one side.)

[xviper]

Originally posted by drifttube123
Brought my car in the dealership today because of a click sound when starting off. I had read a bunch of treads on this issue, I mentioned to them that there was a TSB issed on this. The dealership said it was only valid in the US.
Basically they still charged me 60 is diagnose, and 236 labor to fix (both sides, although I think it was only the drivers side making the sound), no new parts were needed. Was this a fair price? Some threads have said the dealership only charged $80 (USD) for this (probably for only one side.)
They are, of course bullshitting you. What's to diagnose? You've got the typical loose rear hubnut clicking on take-off. The fix is clear and simple. This TSB was for the whole of N. America, however, TSBs are generally only valid while the car is under factory warranty (doesn't include extended warranty). After that, it's "good will". Your dealer is obviously not extending you any good will. In fact, they are forking you up the ass for that price. The job involves taking a bit of weight off each rear tire, removing the center cap, unscrewing the axle nut, cleaning off the threads, applying grease to the base of the thread and re-torquing the nut back on with a higher torque (221 lb/ft), re-staking the nut rim, repeat with the other side. This takes less than 1/2 hour.

[drifttube123]

I guess I won't be going back to that dealership. The worst part was when I asked to talk to someone that was mechanically knowledgible (like a tech), the girl refused! Oh well at least they are warranting the labor for 1yr/ 20kkm.

[dimi]

Fuck this is the exact bullshit I've been dealing with for the last 2 months. I never found that TSB until my 2nd bearing had gone wrong. Everything I read said 180lb/ft, even the manual and Helms.

What was initially a simple bearing replacement, $800 in bearings, hubs, and axle later (threads were striped) I now know that its 220-230. :banghead:

It's little things like these that piss me off. Just like the wrong torque spec on early AP1 spark plugs. If you go by what the manual says, you are still fucked and it won't be cheap. I guess you always have to look for recalls and TSBs before starting a job.

[carzcraz]

Selling my genuine APR front lip (AP2) if anybody is interested :)

http://forums.beyond.ca/st/276190/fs-apr-lip-s2000/

[xviper]

If anyone has an AP2 transmission that pops out of 2nd on engine braking, I've got the cheap and easy fix for you. Dump your tranny fluid and replace it with a 50:50 mix of Honda MTF and Amsoil Syncromesh MTF. Pop-out will be gone.

[zain123]

seen beautiful bb s2k(hardtop) today @ church next to esso on countryhills by nosehill drive

i was off to the mosque or i wouldve stopped for a closer look
but beautiful car :thumbsup:

[S2K2]

I saw a black ap1 the other night leaving chinnook while I was working had a cf hardtop so sexxy

[dimi]

Originally posted by zain123
seen beautiful bb s2k(hardtop) today @ church next to esso on countryhills by nosehill drive

i was off to the mosque or i wouldve stopped for a closer look
but beautiful car :thumbsup:

AP2 w/ volk wheels lowered? If so that is a nice car indeed


Originally posted by S2K2
I saw a black ap1 the other night leaving chinnook while I was working had a cf hardtop so sexxy

Did it have enkei RPF1s :D

[Impreza]

I'm selling my brand new SS brake lines if anyone is interested...

http://forums.beyond.ca/st/276953/fs-s2000-gruppe-s-stainless-steel-brake-lines/

[Ek9Max]

Wow. this thread is 70 pages long with a million different topics. Can't somebody just make an S2000 sub forum in teh honda forums?

[S2K2]

IdntDIdn't get to see the rims the ht looked brandnew it didn't have a back window yet

[shadowz]

Anyone need some T1R Drive shaft spacers (race edition). I have a spare set, J's intake and some minor stuff if youre interested

[S2K2]

How much u want for the spacers

[S2Kok]

For those who are not on S2KI - if you dont already know

11:30 AM - Tomorrow morning @ Deerfoot Mall - open area by the sports shop.

there will be around 20 S2000's or more hopefully. Meet and cruise to Canmore. There are Edmonton guys coming down too so it will be a great turn out.

The more the merrier.

[Skyline_Addict]

should be a good time!

[dimi]

Originally posted by S2K2
IdntDIdn't get to see the rims the ht looked brandnew it didn't have a back window yet

Well thanks for the compliments!

[S2K2]

Haha that was you I was in a silver security car haha

[drifttube123]

Does anyone know where to buy a PnP harness for a V afc V1(apexi) or possibly have a used one kicking around?

[shadowz]

Originally posted by drifttube123
Does anyone know where to buy a PnP harness for a V afc V1(apexi) or possibly have a used one kicking around?


Speedtech should have some frog ones,


Also I would like $140 for the spacers

[drifttube123]

Last week I stalled a bunch of stuff on my AP1, including a K&N Fpik intake and Toda Dual exhaust. The car is quite a big louder than stock, which I don't mind, but there is a drone from 3100-3400 rpm or so which is annoying (especially with top up.). Has anyone experienced this before and has come up with a solution? I am currently looking into sound dampening (mats/ coatings) but don't want to add too much weight.

Note: It might be my ears but I think some of the drone is coming from the intake.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[shadowz]

Originally posted by drifttube123
Last week I stalled a bunch of stuff on my AP1, including a K&N Fpik intake and Toda Dual exhaust. The car is quite a big louder than stock, which I don't mind, but there is a drone from 3100-3400 rpm or so which is annoying (especially with top up.). Has anyone experienced this before and has come up with a solution? I am currently looking into sound dampening (mats/ coatings) but don't want to add too much weight.

Note: It might be my ears but I think some of the drone is coming from the intake.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Did you install a testpipe? A lot of drone with aftermarket exhaust for s2000 is solved with a test pipe, but even with a TP some exhaust does give off a drone at certain RPM ranges

[drifttube123]

Originally posted by shadowz


Did you install a testpipe? A lot of drone with aftermarket exhaust for s2000 is solved with a test pipe, but even with a TP some exhaust does give off a drone at certain RPM ranges

Thanks for the tip, I am not run a TP, I hate the smell uncatalyed exhaust, so that option is out. I have read about some high flow cats such a Berk Tech, but quite a few peaple have had them fail with only a few thousand miles. Do you know of any other brands, I'm not looking to spend too much.

On another note, has anyone here heard of Coastal Metals? They make a metal front spliter etc for the s2k : http://grill-accessories.com/productsforhondas2000.aspx
The prices seem good and since they have a sale right now I was looking to pick the splitter and some side diffusers(if available).

[xviper]

Originally posted by drifttube123


Thanks for the tip, I am not run a TP, I hate the smell uncatalyed exhaust, so that option is out. I have read about some high flow cats such a Berk Tech, but quite a few peaple have had them fail with only a few thousand miles. Do you know of any other brands, I'm not looking to spend too much.

On another note, has anyone here heard of Coastal Metals? They make a metal front spliter etc for the s2k : http://grill-accessories.com/productsforhondas2000.aspx
The prices seem good and since they have a sale right now I was looking to pick the splitter and some side diffusers(if available).
Generally speaking, the drone encountered on aftermarket cat-backs is a function of the cat-back on an S2000 engine. A TP won't affect this drone but may simple mask it by altering the sound of the exhaust. The drone is still there but you have other stuff to distract you. Drone is a resonance wave vibration that is transferred through the bodywork of the car and sets up in the cat-back and thus, any solution must be done there. The car itself becomes like a tuning fork. Honda utilizes a "Helmholtz" resonator on the stock exhaust to eliminate the drone. That's the thing that sticks out the side of the main pipe just before it splits into the two rear cannisters. This might be worth a try to get rid of the drone you have. Weld on a "weenie".
Coastal Metals is a long time maker of S2000 stuff. The "splitter" for an AP1 is a well made unit but it's actually at the wrong angle to be used as a splitter. I had one a long time ago and sold it to someone in Texas who tracked his car. He had to install spacers to get the angle correct in order to make it fully functional. It sticks out a bit so you'll snag it on parking blocks if not careful.

[drifttube123]

Originally posted by xviper

Generally speaking, the drone encountered on aftermarket cat-backs is a function of the cat-back on an S2000 engine. A TP won't affect this drone but may simple mask it by altering the sound of the exhaust. The drone is still there but you have other stuff to distract you. Drone is a resonance wave vibration that is transferred through the bodywork of the car and sets up in the cat-back and thus, any solution must be done there. The car itself becomes like a tuning fork. Honda utilizes a "Helmholtz" resonator on the stock exhaust to eliminate the drone. That's the thing that sticks out the side of the main pipe just before it splits into the two rear cannisters. This might be worth a try to get rid of the drone you have. Weld on a "weenie".
Coastal Metals is a long time maker of S2000 stuff. The "splitter" for an AP1 is a well made unit but it's actually at the wrong angle to be used as a splitter. I had one a long time ago and sold it to someone in Texas who tracked his car. He had to install spacers to get the angle correct in order to make it fully functional. It sticks out a bit so you'll snag it on parking blocks if not careful.

So would sound dampening work then? Adding a mat/ coating to the chassis would cut down on the vibrations and stops the resonance in the car right? I am looking to buy a product called Second Skin :Spectrum, it can be used as an undercoat or an in car coating.

Since you had the splitter, was it easy to install? Do you have any comments on their side diffusers?

Thanks

[xviper]

Originally posted by drifttube123


So would sound dampening work then? Adding a mat/ coating to the chassis would cut down on the vibrations and stops the resonance in the car right? I am looking to buy a product called Second Skin :Spectrum, it can be used as an undercoat or an in car coating.

Since you had the splitter, was it easy to install? Do you have any comments on their side diffusers?

Thanks
It might help. No guarantees.
The splitter instals using the existing undertray bolts. Don't know anything about the side diffusers but if they are like the others on the market, drilling will be required.