Official AP1/AP2 Thread [Archive] - Page 19 - Beyond.ca - Car Forums

xviper

06-03-2011, 05:33 PM

Originally posted by NoMoreG35
Question:
What spark plugs do you guys recommend? I have been researching online and I see that some people like NGK's and others like Denso's. Thanks in advance.
Insofar as brand, it really doesn't matter. The S2000 has come from the factory with both NGK and Denso platinum plugs. They both work equally well and is probably the most popular kind of plugs for this car.
Beyond platinum, it is NOT recommended to go with Iridium plugs for this car. These may work OK for a number of months, but then will develop a nearly invisible high rpm miss.
Also NOT recommended, is any of the multi-tipped plugs like the Bosche +4 types. These simply don't work in an S2000 engine.
Another NOT recommended plug is the latest "Pulse" plugs.
You can, of course, go ahead and try these and if you are not real sensitive to the performance of the car, you probably won't notice. However, the negative, cummulative affects won't be known till something has already been irreversibly damaged.
About the only alternative is the old style copper plug. This will give a better spark and better performance, BUT, they do NOT last very long in our high compression engines and given the kind of timing these engines have. These should be changed every 10K km or so as they tend to foul and lose their gap quickly. I'm currently using the "V-Power" copper racing plugs from NGK for an extra bit of kick. I've also used the stock platinum plugs for many years without any problems.
The AP engines tend to be very sensitive to gap, so checking them is important.

dimi

06-03-2011, 06:50 PM

If you don't use the Denso/NGK oem stuff and try to get with some hyped up, "high performance" spark plug, you could cause yourself a lot of trouble.

I remember a thread about how one plug chipped off and destroyed the engine. Mine came pre gapped but always check them.

PS!!!!: Check the updated torque specs on the plugs. The 00-01 manuals are wrong and the lower torque setting caused a lot of problems. Do not over torque either!

drifttube123

06-04-2011, 04:22 PM

Originally posted by drifttube123
Well, the wife says it has to go. So up for sale is a Toda dual exhaust with dolphin tips. The system only weighs 28 lbs and sounds awesome (especially at the track). It makes power from mid range all the way to redline. Unfortunately the wife says it's too loud (more so now that I add a HFC).

The system has about 10000 km on it, never winter driven and is in very good condition. I think it sells at Evasive for 1600 USD plus shipping. My loss, your gain $850.

Exhaust is sold.

hachiroku

06-04-2011, 11:14 PM

Originally posted by drifttube123

Exhaust is sold.

Thanks and it was great to meet you and deal with you.

NoMoreG35

06-05-2011, 11:02 AM

Anyone has a stock trunk lid (preferably with a lip spoiler) and wants to trade with mine?

eglove

06-05-2011, 11:04 AM

what color?

NoMoreG35

06-05-2011, 11:49 AM

Trunk lid is grand prix white and the spoiler is carbon fiber.

hachiroku

06-05-2011, 03:22 PM

Does the OEM crush ring for the catalytic converter seal better than the aftermarket "house style" three bolt gasket?

xviper

06-05-2011, 03:56 PM

Originally posted by hachiroku
Does the OEM crush ring for the catalytic converter seal better than the aftermarket "house style" three bolt gasket?
They both seal equally well. The OEM ring is integral with the tail end of the stock cat and can't be removed to be installed onto a test pipe or HFC. The only deficiency with the aftermarket triangular gasket is that in time, they corrode away. The trick in installing one is to leave the front spring bolts very loose while you are tightening up the rear 3 bolts. If you don't loosen the front 2 spring bolts, it can be difficult to hold the rear mating surfaces flush while the 3 bolts are tightened. The mating surface between the back of the aftermarket cat (or pipe) assembly must be completely flush with the flange on the front end of the cat-back exhaust. Once those 3 nuts and bolts are done up with the gasket in the middle, there is absolutely no leak. Then you do up the front spring bolts. The metal donut gasket at the front end is designed to take the shape of whatever angle of connection there may be.
If you are using the stock cat on an aftermarket cat-back exhaust, you must get that triangular gasket anyway since the stock ring will not generally seal with an aftermarket system. Only the stock cat-back has the proper groove for the ring to seat into.

Here's some pictures:
The silver triangular gasket is on the left:
http://inlinethumb60.webshots.com/46011/2841255390025981935S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2841255390025981935CvGHGZ)

Here's what it looks like on the back end of the stock cat, ready to be mated with an aftermarket cat-back:
http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/47601/2604950260025981935S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2604950260025981935hQUxVn)

Here is with the cat-back just about to be bolted tight against the cat:
http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/47446/2630270170025981935S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2630270170025981935ZmiANs)

Here's that metal ring at the front of the cat, but if you do the install right, you shouldn't need a new one:
http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/41805/2786813670025981935S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2786813670025981935QfhzAg)

hachiroku

06-05-2011, 05:26 PM

Do you know of anyone who stocks the triangular gasket in Alberta or BC? I checked through Victor and Fel-Pro and they make only smaller versions of that style. I see BERK makes one but I prefer to buy local first. Could always create my own but I'm trying to be lazy. Thanks

xviper

06-05-2011, 06:35 PM

A long time ago, BoomPlusToys in Vancouver sold these gaskets separately. Talk to Morris if he still works there.
However, you could also enquire with Tunerworks and see if they can get one for you. Anyone who sells aftermarket cat-backs for the S2000 should be able to get these.
Failing this, yes, you could make one of your own. The age old method is to get a sheet of 1/8" cork and cut one out to the right shape. Then use high temp gasket sealant (RTV) on both sides of the cork. This will provide the necessary flexibility and sealing characteristics.

dimi

06-05-2011, 08:55 PM

What do you guys think of suede steering wheels? I like the grip better than leather. Do they wear out? I assume you have to watch the cleanliness of your hands even more. How do you clean one?

Oh yea also:

Is it worth it not having the airbag anymore?

What kind of an adaptor thing do I need. I see some for like $80, some for $300.

hachiroku

06-05-2011, 10:10 PM

Thanks for the advice and info xviper, very much appreciated!

That.Guy.S30

06-05-2011, 10:31 PM

Originally posted by xviper
A long time ago, BoomPlusToys in Vancouver sold these gaskets separately. Talk to Morris if he still works there.
However, you could also enquire with Tunerworks and see if they can get one for you. Anyone who sells aftermarket cat-backs for the S2000 should be able to get these.
Failing this, yes, you could make one of your own. The age old method is to get a sheet of 1/8" cork and cut one out to the right shape. Then use high temp gasket sealant (RTV) on both sides of the cork. This will provide the necessary flexibility and sealing characteristics.

Morris still works there. He is great to deal with. I got my Fujitsubo exaust from him.

That.Guy.S30

06-05-2011, 10:33 PM

Originally posted by dimi
What do you guys think of suede steering wheels? I like the grip better than leather. Do they wear out? I assume you have to watch the cleanliness of your hands even more. How do you clean one?

Oh yea also:

Is it worth it not having the airbag anymore?

What kind of an adaptor thing do I need. I see some for like $80, some for $300.

they do wear out, sweat/water/oil can destroy it. the Nardi deep corn are very nice. if you get a Nardi wheel, you can use a worksbell specer to attach to the hub. worksbell spacer is like 30 bucks.

xviper

06-05-2011, 10:54 PM

Originally posted by That.Guy.S30

Morris still works there. He is great to deal with. I got my Fujitsubo exaust from him.
As did I. The Fuji is still on the car. I met him at his shop a few years back. Nice guy.

dimi

06-07-2011, 08:34 AM

Anyone know where I can find a clutch master & slave for cheaper than the dealer?

Also, looking for ATE super blue.

Thanks!

jaylo

06-07-2011, 12:38 PM

I am looking for a set of suspension and wheels for my S2000, just wondering if someone has laying around they want to get rid of before I start ordering
thanks

A2VR6

06-07-2011, 12:56 PM

Originally posted by dimi
Anyone know where I can find a clutch master & slave for cheaper than the dealer?

Also, looking for ATE super blue.

Thanks!

Got my jug of super blue from Concept 1.

dimi

06-08-2011, 08:18 AM

As far as coilovers go what would you guys choose in the mid $1,500? Don't want to go way overboard on the budget. Are T1R's coilovers any good?

shadowz

06-08-2011, 08:34 AM

Originally posted by dimi
As far as coilovers go what would you guys choose in the mid $1,500? Don't want to go way overboard on the budget. Are T1R's coilovers any good?

For the price they are great, been running my set for 3 years now, but they do run 12k springs front and rear, for some it is too stiff. For myself they are very streetable and work excellent at the track. For your price range you should be able to find some Tein flex (used) which would be significantly softer than the T1R. For a extra couple hundred dollars you could also find yourself a set of used HKS Hipermax which I would rate best bang for the buck for a non external valved coilover. The one coilover that I do not have any experience with is KW V3, never heard any negatives but the spring ratings were significantly lower than say the T1R or HKS.

Skyline_Addict

06-08-2011, 09:58 AM

I have the HKS Hipermax Sport III and it's a great suspension for non staggered 255 setups. It isn't exactly everyday streetable but isn't unbearable as a weekend warrior.

The suspension comes pre-set with recommended settings out of the box, although I would say that these settings are more attuned for a smooth track like Tsukuba rather than Calgary streets or Race City for that matter. Either way, it gives you a good base from where to adjust from. It's all in the tuning.

A2VR6 runs on KWv3 and is very smooth and streetable and performs extremely well at autocross. I think his suspension rides smoother than stock. I can say the same about Shadowz' car, which performs extremely confidently and smoothly at the road course.

dimi

06-08-2011, 10:45 AM

Not so worried about spring stiffness. I have a daily beater so this is my weekend fun car and I will be doing a few track days this year hopefully. I will be getting a 255 front soon, and a thicker front sway bar.

Reason why I asked about T1R is they list for $1500, generally have good reviews, and I think I can knock a bit off of that price which I think is pretty good value.

I'd love to rock KW V3's but those are getting close to $2,000, a bit beyond my budget. Not interested in Tein Flex.

I'd maybe consider a used set though I'd be wary of used coilovers. What is a good cheap place to get any of these coilovers? Online or local doesn't really matter to me.

Skyline_Addict

06-08-2011, 11:26 AM

Right now, online. Me and A2VR6 got our coils for a good deal back in the day. Around $1700ish USD. Only paid tax since it was USPS.

T1Rs should be cheaper for sure and seem to be good value. It would be hard for me to pass up a suspension of KWv3 or HKS Hipermax III calibur for just a couple hundred more...

dimi

06-08-2011, 01:22 PM

Originally posted by Skyline_Addict
Right now, online. Me and A2VR6 got our coils for a good deal back in the day. Around $1700ish USD. Only paid tax since it was USPS.

T1Rs should be cheaper for sure and seem to be good value. It would be hard for me to pass up a suspension of KWv3 or HKS Hipermax III calibur for just a couple hundred more...

$1700 USD? Where did you get $1700? I have never seen those under $2000. Plus the $1500 i said for T1Rs are the list price which I'm sure you can get discount off of. If I can get those for $1700USD + shipping on top obviously, I'll pay cash today.

http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=80155-AH003&Category_Code=Honda_S2000_Suspension

eglove

06-08-2011, 03:02 PM

I'm running buddyclub n+'s and I'm quite happy with them

shadowz

06-08-2011, 03:36 PM

Dimi if you want I can probably get you a deal on some T1R B-52 pm me if youd like

A2VR6

06-09-2011, 12:36 AM

I got my KW V3's from Gruppe-S in the states for $1745 shipped last year.

drifttube123

06-10-2011, 09:08 AM

Hi all,

I am running a Berk HFC (63.5mm) but cannot seem to get the proper seal from the stock manifold to the HFC. I first reinstalled with the original gasket, then I bought an after market donut which looks like a bunch of steel wool formed together (slightly bigger than stock). Regardless both attempts failed. I then took the aftermarket gasket and spread high temperature silicon on and into it. I reinstalled it last night and took a quick drive; the problem seem to be fixed. This morning I opened the car up to 8K and now I the exhaust leaks again.

The install was according to the procedure below.

Any suggestions? Solutions?

Thanks in adance.

Originally posted by xviper

They both seal equally well. The OEM ring is integral with the tail end of the stock cat and can't be removed to be installed onto a test pipe or HFC. The only deficiency with the aftermarket triangular gasket is that in time, they corrode away. The trick in installing one is to leave the front spring bolts very loose while you are tightening up the rear 3 bolts. If you don't loosen the front 2 spring bolts, it can be difficult to hold the rear mating surfaces flush while the 3 bolts are tightened. The mating surface between the back of the aftermarket cat (or pipe) assembly must be completely flush with the flange on the front end of the cat-back exhaust. Once those 3 nuts and bolts are done up with the gasket in the middle, there is absolutely no leak. Then you do up the front spring bolts. The metal donut gasket at the front end is designed to take the shape of whatever angle of connection there may be.
If you are using the stock cat on an aftermarket cat-back exhaust, you must get that triangular gasket anyway since the stock ring will not generally seal with an aftermarket system. Only the stock cat-back has the proper groove for the ring to seat into.

Here's some pictures:
The silver triangular gasket is on the left:
http://inlinethumb60.webshots.com/46011/2841255390025981935S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2841255390025981935CvGHGZ)

Here's what it looks like on the back end of the stock cat, ready to be mated with an aftermarket cat-back:
http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/47601/2604950260025981935S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2604950260025981935hQUxVn)

Here is with the cat-back just about to be bolted tight against the cat:
http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/47446/2630270170025981935S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2630270170025981935ZmiANs)

Here's that metal ring at the front of the cat, but if you do the install right, you shouldn't need a new one:
http://inlinethumb14.webshots.com/41805/2786813670025981935S600x600Q85.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2786813670025981935QfhzAg)

shadowz

06-10-2011, 09:12 AM

So it is leaking between the header and cat? You had just mentioned the aftermarket donut is larger than oem, if that is the case run over the honda and grab a oem donut for 20 dollars

drifttube123

06-10-2011, 09:45 AM

The gasket has the right ID size (2.5inches, I think it is OEM equivalent for CRV), but the OD size is slightly beefier (So I thought better seal. ).

Which dealer sells the OEM gasket for $20, I called CF Honda they wanted $55? Thats why I went after market.

xviper

06-10-2011, 10:23 AM

I also have the Berk HFC. What is the sign that it's leaking? Smell? Sound? If it's sound, then you can pin-point if it's from the front of the cat (donut) or the back of the cat (triangular gasket) if you jack up the car on the right and have a close listen with the engine running. If it's smell, then this could simply be a symptom of the HFC. It is known to smell a bit of sulfer when you get on it and due to the low pressure area behind the S, some of the smell can get into the cabin.
That donut is made of a softer metal and it conforms to the shape of the space it has to occupy. It's not just the diameter of the donut but the shape of it that is important. Also, those spring bolts should not be done up completely. There has to be some ability for the joint to move when the exhaust vibrates. If they are done up fully, one side of the connection can actually pull away from the donut. That's why those 2 bolts have springs on them. I recall mine were 3 to 4 turns away from full tight. It can also take some heat and time for the donut to take on the needed ridges for a good seal.

shadowz

06-10-2011, 10:37 AM

Originally posted by drifttube123
The gasket has the right ID size (2.5inches, I think it is OEM equivalent for CRV), but the OD size is slightly beefier (So I thought better seal. ).

Which dealer sells the OEM gasket for $20, I called CF Honda they wanted $55? Thats why I went after market.

As Xviper has mentioned regarding the scent of CAT it was quite common with the T1R units as well, but if you want a OEM donut pm me and I will get you one at a discounted rate

drifttube123

06-10-2011, 11:50 AM

Thanks for the input guys.

How I detected the leak was by spraying a mix of Tide and water onto the gasket joint, allowing it to soak and then throtteling. The donut joint foamed up, so that's when I took it apart and used silicon.

I will take Xviper's advise and loosen the spring bolts as I have them all the way in.

Thanks for the offer Shadows, I will PM you if this doesn't work.

On another topic, is anyone going to Auto X at Deerfoot on Sunday. Me and my buddy will be there. This will be my first time in an S2k.

xviper

06-10-2011, 01:50 PM

Originally posted by drifttube123
How I detected the leak was by spraying a mix of Tide and water onto the gasket joint, allowing it to soak and then throtteling. The donut joint foamed up
Are you sure it's not boiling the fluid you spray on. That area gets really hot really fast.

drifttube123

06-10-2011, 02:35 PM

No, the system was cold. I drenched the joint and then turned the car on. No foaming at idle, but once I gassed it, it foamed up like a latte.

A2VR6

06-10-2011, 06:03 PM

Originally posted by drifttube123

On another topic, is anyone going to Auto X at Deerfoot on Sunday. Me and my buddy will be there. This will be my first time in an S2k.

I'll be there running timing come say hi!

jaylo

06-11-2011, 12:43 PM

Buyer beware on this one

http://bc.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-2001-Honda-S2000-Convertible-W0QQAdIdZ284436140

He drove in to Calgary Thursday night to show me the car. I took my time inspecting this car and found these:

PROS
-newer soft top
-all maintenance records
-CarProof came out clean

CONS
1. recent rear bumper accident
2. engine work done, seller would not explain what
3. transmission whining (you can feel it also on the shift knob, abnormal) on 1st, 2nd gear, and when off throttle
4. Florida lease car, then purchased from CA dealership
5. musty smell inside the car, windshield fogs at night, possibly flood damaged
6. looks like car bottomed out, hopped a curb denting the underside of the passenger door. Seller had "no idea" what happened
7. brakes spongy

Quite a fixer-upper but not worth $12,500 firm.

Jay

importracer

06-22-2011, 10:31 PM

Anyone have a stock silverstone driver side fender for sale?

someone hit and ran me in a parking lot so need a replacement.

Thanks

Errol.

06-27-2011, 02:37 AM

Hit the wall in my car at the last track day.
Looking for JDM AP1 or usdm ap2 headlights, ap2 front bumper, driver side fender and side strake or j's side skirts. (Perferably sebring silver)

Does anyone know if the j's side skirts cover the hole left from the oem side strake?

Also has anyone done engine mounts on their s2000? Mine are done and cant find much on how to get to the driver side mount

navdeep

06-27-2011, 01:20 PM

does anyone no how to reprogram the honda key fob for the s2000 i tired searching it up on google but it's not working for me .

has anyone done it before?

xviper

06-27-2011, 01:55 PM

Originally posted by navdeep
does anyone no how to reprogram the honda key fob for the s2000 i tired searching it up on google but it's not working for me .

has anyone done it before?
http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=12142&highlight=keyfob+program

navdeep

06-27-2011, 02:15 PM

i tired that wont work for me.. i dont hear door lock actuators

is it worth taken it to the dealership ?

or is there some things i can check to make sure is notting else

PandaKing

07-03-2011, 02:13 PM

any one have a haynes manual i could borrow or buy ? My Car recently stalled out going up nose hill !! wont start sounded like the chain tensor but i wanna lift the head to see if any more damage was caused !!

xviper

07-03-2011, 03:13 PM

Originally posted by navdeep
i tired that wont work for me.. i dont hear door lock actuators

is it worth taken it to the dealership ?

or is there some things i can check to make sure is notting else
Check your fuses. Your keyless remote receiver module fuse may have blown. Do you have other remotes you can try?

xviper

07-03-2011, 03:16 PM

Originally posted by PandaKing
any one have a haynes manual i could borrow or buy ? My Car recently stalled out going up nose hill !! wont start sounded like the chain tensor but i wanna lift the head to see if any more damage was caused !!
One doesn't generally pull the head just because the engine stalled. One would look elsewhere before concluding that the head has to come off. Unless there's something about your engine that you haven't disclosed.

PandaKing

07-03-2011, 03:35 PM

well i was going to check the chain and tensor first just preparing for the worst

xviper

07-03-2011, 04:44 PM

Originally posted by PandaKing
well i was going to check the chain and tensor first just preparing for the worst
The S2000 TCT is not known to fail with sudden onset. There's usually weeks and months of ticking before anything bad happens and even then, nothing happens. The chain can't be checked without exposing the front of the engine. If the chain has jumped a few teeth, that can be inspected with the valve cover off. Unless the chain, cams and guides have been messed with, there's small chance that it would have jumped any teeth. It just has not been known to happen.
If the engine suddenly stops and can't be started, check fuel and ignition first. Make sure there's fuel pressure and then make sure there's spark. Timing would be one of the last things to check on an S2K engine on sudden failure. Unless it's been over-revved really bad in the past, in which case, you would do compression and leakdown, with a close inspection of all valve retainers.

drifttube123

07-07-2011, 05:56 PM

Ok, so I bought a set of ap2 rims and on the rears are tires called Federal Super Steel 595. I took the S auto crossing last Sunday and thought I lacked grip so I took at look and saw that they were only v rated. However driving the car normally on the street my car feels like a boat. Can a set of crappy tires in the rear do this to my car?(the front are stock).

A2VR6

07-08-2011, 12:36 AM

Originally posted by drifttube123
Ok, so I bought a set of ap2 rims and on the rears are tires called Federal Super Steel 595. I took the S auto crossing last Sunday and thought I lacked grip so I took at look and saw that they were only v rated. However driving the car normally on the street my car feels like a boat. Can a set of crappy tires in the rear do this to my car?(the front are stock).

Yes... Tires can do ALOT. Those Federals you had this past weekend are imho worse than the other ones on your AP1 rims you had.

My suggestion... if you can, grab a set of Hankook RS3's or Dunlop Star Spec's and you'll notice a world of difference grip wise :)

drifttube123

07-08-2011, 11:21 AM

Originally posted by A2VR6

Yes... Tires can do ALOT. Those Federals you had this past weekend are imho worse than the other ones on your AP1 rims you had.

My suggestion... if you can, grab a set of Hankook RS3's or Dunlop Star Spec's and you'll notice a world of difference grip wise :)

I was wondering why I felt fast and furious as I plowed through the cones!

I'll be shopping for new tires after my holidays. Thanks.

Skyline_Addict

07-08-2011, 12:11 PM

Originally posted by drifttube123
Ok, so I bought a set of ap2 rims and on the rears are tires called Federal Super Steel 595. I took the S auto crossing last Sunday and thought I lacked grip so I took at look and saw that they were only v rated. However driving the car normally on the street my car feels like a boat. Can a set of crappy tires in the rear do this to my car?(the front are stock).

Good tires are the most important modification to a car. Star specs definetely seem to be the popular choice amongst avid autcrossers.

2000rs

07-09-2011, 09:44 PM

Hey guys,

Got a question for you regarding the OEM alarm system. There is a LED alarm indicator behind the handbrake in my 2003 S2000. When the alarm is set, the LED will blink once every couple seconds. When the alarm is disarmed, the LED will not blink at all. However, when I tried to unlock the car with my key fob today, the alarm was set off immediately when I opened the door. I can't stop the alarm no matter which button I press in the key fob. It finally stopped after 30 seconds or so. The LED now blink twice every couple seconds. Can anyone tell me what is happening to my alarm? Is it the panic mode? The funny thing is, I can start my car, the alarm will then stop for awhile, then the alarm will set off again while the car is running. Does anyone know what's going on?

Thanks!

euro_racer

07-10-2011, 01:55 AM

i bet it has been most likely discussed on here once before but, what is my best option to go with when it comes to a ripped soft top?

it is a bit sketchy for me buying the ebay tops, i am able to find used oem tops usually in the states but most people do not want to ship. is there someone locally who can repair soft tops? ...or maybe even does anyone on here know of someone selling a top locally/close by? it is for an ap2

jaylo

07-11-2011, 03:10 PM

Originally posted by 2000rs
Hey guys,

Got a question for you regarding the OEM alarm system. There is a LED alarm indicator behind the handbrake in my 2003 S2000. When the alarm is set, the LED will blink once every couple seconds. When the alarm is disarmed, the LED will not blink at all. However, when I tried to unlock the car with my key fob today, the alarm was set off immediately when I opened the door. I can't stop the alarm no matter which button I press in the key fob. It finally stopped after 30 seconds or so. The LED now blink twice every couple seconds. Can anyone tell me what is happening to my alarm? Is it the panic mode? The funny thing is, I can start my car, the alarm will then stop for awhile, then the alarm will set off again while the car is running. Does anyone know what's going on?

Thanks!

Reprogram your Remote Transmitter or you can just get a Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter and call it a day

euro_racer

07-21-2011, 07:53 PM

does anyone have a front bumper rebar laying around? if so shoot me a pm with your number i need one asap

navdeep

07-25-2011, 12:00 AM

hey any body want T1R Hyper Silicon Radiator Hose Set mine are blue never used $120

Ek9Max

07-25-2011, 02:03 AM

Selling a complete T1R Big brake kit. Comes with Stainless lines too.

Retail on these items is about $2800+

Selling for $2000 for everything.

BRAND NEW, NEVER INSTALLED>

Skyline_Addict

07-30-2011, 06:40 PM

Hey guys. Selling the following.

OEM Leather Tonneau Cover $100
OEM Passenger Side Door w/ all AP1 Interior Panels (Silverstone) $250
OEM Passenger Side Fender (Rio Yellow, rolled) $175
OEM AP2 Rear Bumper (Rio Yellow, needs small repairs) $100
OEM AP1 wheels (Spray painted black, no center caps, tires are bald) $ 350
OEM Driver Side Door AP1 Interior Panels $75.
OEM "s2000" Fender Emblems (set of 2) $50
OEM Fender Sidemarkers (set of 2, amber) $20

PM me for more details. Thanks.

OEM AP2 Front Lip (Rio Yellow, needs small repairs) $75 - SOLD

Ek9Max

07-31-2011, 07:52 PM

Selling a complete T1R Big brake kit. Comes with Stainless lines too.

Retail on these items is about $2800+

Selling for $1500 FIRM now for everything.

BRAND NEW, NEVER INSTALLED>

eglove

07-31-2011, 09:17 PM

Originally posted by Skyline_Addict
Hey guys. Selling the following.

OEM Leather Tonneau Cover $100
OEM Passenger Side Door w/ all AP1 Interior Panels (Silverstone) $250
OEM Passenger Side Fender (Rio Yellow, rolled) $175
OEM AP2 Rear Bumper (Rio Yellow, needs small repairs) $100
OEM AP2 Front Lip (Rio Yellow, needs small repairs) $75
OEM AP1 wheels (Spray painted black, no center caps, tires are bald) $ 350

PM me for more details. Thanks.

pm'd you terrence

Ek9Max

08-01-2011, 09:16 PM

Also have a few parts leftover from my s2000

Passenger fender in white $100
Both mirrors in white $100
Stock exhaust manifold $50
Stock cat $25

Errol.

08-02-2011, 12:28 AM

Jeeze whats with everyone selling passenger fenders! I need a driver side one.

Has anyone have experience with a leaking intake manifold gasket spitting out coolant on a s2?

Skyline_Addict

08-02-2011, 09:13 AM

dimi

08-04-2011, 09:37 AM

^^

Are you making a track car or something? lol

Skyline_Addict

08-04-2011, 09:52 AM

nope, just some minor changes. selling the parts I don't need!

snow_daniel

08-04-2011, 10:36 AM

^ hey T is your S2 done yet? I want to go for a criuse anyone interested? well not today maybe saturday evening?

Skyline_Addict

08-04-2011, 11:00 AM

Gangster D, it should be done sometime next week. So next weekend could work for me.

4doorj

08-04-2011, 11:16 AM

Originally posted by snow_daniel
^ hey T is your S2 done yet? I want to go for a criuse anyone interested? well not today maybe saturday evening?
Id be interested depending on when. I can't drive this week cause I twisted right ankle. So maybe sometime next week.

snow_daniel

08-05-2011, 12:23 PM

Originally posted by 4doorj

Id be interested depending on when. I can't drive this week cause I twisted right ankle. So maybe sometime next week.
^ Hey J, good that you back to the S2 family :) hoep you recover soon

Let plan something out...however I am not good @ planning...any Volunteer?

Skyline_Addict

08-05-2011, 01:13 PM

I volunteer not to plan

hachiroku

08-05-2011, 04:40 PM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Skyline_Addict
[B]

New parts added:

OEM Driver Side Door AP1 Interior Panels $75.

Is it a complete black panel?

EDIT:

Also looking for Mugen MF10's locally if anyone actually has a set for sale.

Skyline_Addict

08-08-2011, 02:11 PM

Originally posted by hachiroku
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Skyline_Addict
[B]

New parts added:

OEM Driver Side Door AP1 Interior Panels $75.

Is it a complete black panel?

EDIT:

Also looking for Mugen MF10's locally if anyone actually has a set for sale.

Yes, it is completely black.

hachiroku

08-15-2011, 09:46 AM

Dammit, I should have checked this thread before I was down in Calgary. I would have bought the panel off you.

Skyline_Addict

08-15-2011, 10:01 AM

Originally posted by hachiroku
Dammit, I should have checked this thread before I was down in Calgary. I would have bought the panel off you.

It'll probably still be here for you when you drop by next.

hachiroku

08-15-2011, 08:50 PM

It will be a while before i'm in Calgary again. On a side note you don't know anyone with PSS9 coilovers and how they are compared to KW3's?

A2VR6

08-15-2011, 10:29 PM

Originally posted by hachiroku
It will be a while before i'm in Calgary again. On a side note you don't know anyone with PSS9 coilovers and how they are compared to KW3's?

You might want to ask coldrsx (from Edmonton) on S2Ki about PSS9's as I belive he runs them.

What are you looking for in a coilover? Are you tracking it or is it mainly street?

hachiroku

08-16-2011, 02:17 PM

I would say more for street with light track duty.

A2VR6

08-16-2011, 03:00 PM

PSS9's come with a lower spring rate than V3's. I would probably say based on that, they would be more comfortable for the street vs. the V3's.

Both coilovers are great and are excellent quality with the PSS9's being a bit cheaper. That being said, the V3's ride quite comfortably on the street with the rebound being in the middle/soft side. I usually stiffen the fronts up for auto-x however and the ride gets fairly harsh.

shadowz

08-16-2011, 03:12 PM

I would recommend the KW's ride quality is pretty excellent for Calgary streets and can easily whip you through the corners at the track. From my friends car with PSS9's is it very soft compared

hachiroku

08-18-2011, 09:47 AM

Hmm interesting, how are KW's for shock matching and rebuilding? I have heard and seen Bilstein is "fairly" consistent for most kits and are very simple to get them to change the piston to different specs.

Skyline_Addict

08-18-2011, 09:54 AM

I would also recommend the KWV3s. For what you are looking to use them for, I'd say they are the best choice in the market.

A2VR6

08-18-2011, 11:21 AM

Originally posted by hachiroku
Hmm interesting, how are KW's for shock matching and rebuilding? I have heard and seen Bilstein is "fairly" consistent for most kits and are very simple to get them to change the piston to different specs.

The KW V3's are known to be very consistant from what people have said and posted after putting them on a shock dyno.

There are several places that can rebuilding/revalve KW's for around 150 bucks in the states. I believe KW will also do it for you as well for around 125 but I hear it takes a while for them to do it.

What spring rates are you thinking of running? You can run springs +/- 200 lb/in of what is supplied with the coilovers (so up to 715) without the need to revalve (although the closer you get to the higher end they do reccomend to revalve).

Im probably going to change out the fronts on mine to 750 lb/in springs in the winter and im on the fence on sending em in for a revalve.

shadowz

08-18-2011, 11:59 AM

For most of the people I have seen and heard running V3's, out of the box form is typically the most well rounded. Unless your car is going to be seeing a lot of track time that is when I would probably go with something like 12-14K front and rear

dimi

08-23-2011, 11:38 AM

Anything worth replacing while the tranny is our for a clutch job?

xviper

08-23-2011, 12:14 PM

Originally posted by dimi
Anything worth replacing while the tranny is our for a clutch job?
Engine rear main seal.
Clutch job should include new TO bearing, new pilot bearing in the flywheel and the proper greasing of all pertinent parts. Failure to do so will lead to yanking the tranny off again in a few months. If the knock sensor gets busted, you'll need a new one of those.

dimi

08-23-2011, 12:55 PM

Thx viper,

I'll be careful of the knock sensor, a few people mentioned they broke theirs when dropping the tranny.

Also what is the best service manual for the S2K. Helms? I checked their website and they have like 10 different manuals for the S2000.

xviper

08-23-2011, 05:14 PM

Where the knock sensor gets snapped off is from trying to remove the upper starter bolt using a very long extension. Due to the angle of attack on that bolt, the extension bows badly and it's when it bows that the knock sensor gets hit. If you take an extra hour (15 minutes if you're good) to disassemble the intake manifold brace, this will give the extension a straigher shot at the bolt and it won't bow hardly at all. Use a sudden sharp snap to get the bolt started.

Helm now has about 7 service manuals now for the S2000. Get the one that includes your year but also as many of the later years since yours so as to get the most up to date information. There is only a slight difference between AP1 and AP2 anyway in terms ways to do things, so there's a lot of duplication of information from one service manual to the other. The one for $125.00 seems like a bit of a rip off considering any of the others will give you most of what you need. If it were me, I'd now get the 2000 - 2006 one for $56.50 (unless you have the CR in which case, you'll probably need the big buck one). That'll give you all AP1 and AP2, including all the DBW stuff of the '06.