Official AP1/AP2 Thread

[Onassis]

Apex blue, I just couldn't find a decent GPW or BB one anywhere that had AC and radio. The black one that keeps on getting listed on eBay has a accident history (flooding from what the peeps on S2Ki say).

Unfortunately mine has a accident history as well but the 1 owner showed me pictures of the rear bumper damage and all documentation in regards to getting it fixed. It's getting shipped up from Arizona at the beginning of September, can't wait !

[eglove]

i think i saw you the other day going northbound on harvest hills blvd towards stoney

[Jlude]

Nice. Miss my AB CR.

Think I'm gonna get into a S2K again... if I can find a clean one ffs. Everything posted on s2ki is junk

[euro_racer]

Is anyone looking to trade exhausts? I have a t1r dual exhaust and it is a bit too loud for my (and my neighbors) likes... Sounds amazing though at WOT

[eglove]

hmm, i have single exit spoon n1 if you're interested

[Onassis]

Originally posted by eglove
i think i saw you the other day going northbound on harvest hills blvd towards stoney

Me ? Couldn't have because mine is in transit lol. We should have a meet in the fall before the snowfall.

Jlude you got any old pictures of your CR ? This is my first time owning a car with such a 'loud' colour, how much attention does the AB get ?

[drifttube123]

Would +44, 17 inch rims with 235, 45, 17s (non staggered) work on a stock s2k?

[Skyline_Addict]

how wide are the wheels?

[drifttube123]

They are 8 inches wide.

[dimi]

Easily, without rubbing too.

I would say my favorite s2k setup is 17x9 w/ 255 non stagger. A little roll on the front and back and relocate that tab in the back. European alignment, or something more aggressive for track. Oh yes and a stiffer sway bar up front to reduce oversteer as you are adding a lot of tire up front. Totally different handling car after that.

[dimi]

Originally posted by Jlude
Nice. Miss my AB CR.

Think I'm gonna get into a S2K again... if I can find a clean one ffs. Everything posted on s2ki is junk

Don't get a CR imo. The lack of the softop is just not worth it. I miss my softop sooooooo much. Drop top is money, especially on the highway!

[JAARemedy]

I have an ap2 front bumper for sale! $150 PM me if your interested :) Thanks!

[Skyline_Addict]

Originally posted by dimi
Easily, without rubbing too.

I would say my favorite s2k setup is 17x9 w/ 255 non stagger. A little roll on the front and back and relocate that tab in the back. European alignment, or something more aggressive for track. Oh yes and a stiffer sway bar up front to reduce oversteer as you are adding a lot of tire up front. Totally different handling car after that.

yes. 17x9 with 255/40 is the accepted standard for the street-able track warrior s2000 without having to heavily modify the fenders. front swaybar and/or rear aero becomes necessary due to new front grip bias.

[Jlude]

Originally posted by dimi


Don't get a CR imo. The lack of the softop is just not worth it. I miss my softop sooooooo much. Drop top is money, especially on the highway!

Bought a M3 coupe instead. Couldn't find an S2K that I wanted to buy.

[Cos]

So I test drove one I want to buy next week. It is an AP1. A little tired but nothing I dont think I can take care of. It has just north of 150,000km on it and I have one concern.

The clutch seems to engage a little late. There is no slipping and no problem getting it into gear. It just feels like you have to let a lot of your leg out before the clutch catches. It almost reminds me of a Mini Cooper. Is that normal for an AP1?

Anything to really look for on this car? I only got to see it in the dark although it was fairly well lit when we were looking at it. Runs nice. Pulls hard. Electrics all seem to work. Nothing to really worry me that I can tell.

[4doorj]

One important thing that I always check for are rips in the top.

[Cos]

Originally posted by 4doorj
One important thing that I always check for are rips in the top.

Thanks, there are a couple wear marks at the joins of the roof frame but I didnt see any tears. Ill make sure I give it a real good look though. Why is that exactly? Are they expensive?


Also it seems that the AP1 clutch engages at a weird spot normally:

http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=29076

[dimi]

^^ Check the clutch fluid. If its low there is air inside the system and a weird engagement point. Though what you describe sounds about right. If its dirty/black it needs to be replaced! Also pay attention to the clutch itself and make sure it doesn't slip. Its a lot of labor to change an S2000 clutch.

I actually patched my softop from the inside on the "critical areas where the frame folds and it was starting to wear. Definitely helps.

What year is it anyway? If I was buying an S2000 I would do a compression check, especially an AP1, and with that kind of mileage. AP1s tend to burn oil, so checking your oil every fill up or two is a must. A good synthetic is also a must. Some of the earlier ones 00-01 had cylinder scoring issues, due to a different design oil bolt(02+). The 00-01 also got a not so well tuned ECU. Very rich and very little timing advance so 1000-5000 is sluggish. The retainers on the valves tend to break if you mechanically over rev (miss a shift) vs AP2 retainers which don't. I have upgraded all of these items, so to be honest you're better off starting out with a 02-03.

However if the owner has maintained the car well, they are reliable cars and a lot of fun!

Good Luck

[Cos]

Originally posted by dimi
^^ Check the clutch fluid. If its low there is air inside the system and a weird engagement point. Though what you describe sounds about right. If its dirty/black it needs to be replaced! Also pay attention to the clutch itself and make sure it doesn't slip. Its a lot of labor to change an S2000 clutch.



I actually mentioned it to the guy when I drove it and he said his brother (or buddy cant remember) had an AP1. He said it felt the same way. Just wanted to make sure that was reality.


Originally posted by dimi


What year is it anyway?

2001


Originally posted by dimi
If I was buying an S2000 I would do a compression check, especially an AP1, and with that kind of mileage. AP1s tend to burn oil, so checking your oil every fill up or two is a must. A good synthetic is also a must. Some of the earlier ones 00-01 had cylinder scoring issues, due to a different design oil bolt(02+). The 00-01 also got a not so well tuned ECU. Very rich and very little timing advance so 1000-5000 is sluggish. The retainers on the valves tend to break if you mechanically over rev (miss a shift) vs AP2 retainers which don't. I have upgraded all of these items, so to be honest you're better off starting out with a 02-03.


I will check the oil and do oil changes often. This will be a strictly fun car. I also asked the guy to get an inspection done so I will make sure to include a compression check. He said he had some Mobil1 synth still in his garage he could give me for it.

I could do a tune, it wont hurt my feelings. :D I didnt notice it being too bad below 5,000 but this is my first time ever driving one.

The things seems to be in pretty good shape. I cant personally crawl underneath it to take a look hence why I asked for the inspection from the dealer. The biggest wear items are:

- The seat has a wear spot in it.
- The drivers side carpet is worn.
- The roof has discolouration (wear spots) where the joins are.
- The body isnt in great shape but it isnt too bad.

Mechanically it seemed fine. He did say it was hard to get it into reverse sometimes but he said that was why the changed they syncro types on the AP2.



Originally posted by dimi

However if the owner has maintained the car well, they are reliable cars and a lot of fun!

Good Luck

It came out of the US so this would be its 3 or 4th owner so I dont know how many records I could get. That being said it really seemed alright just worn out and being 10 years old didnt seem that bad.

[jaylo]

Sounds like this ap1 has some issues (bagged) and I would stay far away.
I would be happy to show you mine and what a 10 year old car should look and feel like - all stock

Don't have clutch or reverse issues and 190psi across the board

[Cos]

Originally posted by jaylo
Sounds like this ap1 has some issues (bagged) and I would stay far away.
I would be happy to show you mine and what a 10 year old car should look and feel like - all stock

Don't have clutch or reverse issues and 190psi across the board

Why does it sound bagged? It seems to be actual good shape. He was the one who said something about reverse. I didnt notice any problems with the tranny. The clutch does feel strange but I also noticed on a mini cooper that you have to let the clutch out quite a bit.

I would be interesting in checking it out though to see. Ill send you my number.

thanks!

[drifttube123]

Originally posted by Cos


Thanks, there are a couple wear marks at the joins of the roof frame but I didnt see any tears. Ill make sure I give it a real good look though. Why is that exactly? Are they expensive?


Also it seems that the AP1 clutch engages at a weird spot normally:

http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=29076

When I bought my AP1, the clutch engagement was super high but no slippage. Honda said it was worn out and needed replacement. They wanted over $2000 to replace it. FYI, I have since put in an ACT HD clutch and now the friction point is lowered about 2 inches and a bit heavier.

[xviper]

Originally posted by Cos
He did say it was hard to get it into reverse sometimes but he said that was why the changed they syncro types on the AP2.
They went away from brass syncros with the notion that they would be more durable. Has nothing to do with reverse. Reserve doesn't use syncros. Next time you put it into reverse, try doing it from neutral (clutch up), then quickly push clutch down and put it into reverse on any S2000. It'll grind like crazy, showing there are no syncros. Put it into a forward gear (with syncros) then put it into reverse. No grind.
Being hard to put into reverse (or first or any other gear from a dead stop is an indication that the clutch is unable to fully disengage. This is likely the clutch fluid needing to be flushed and changed and/or the pedal throw needing adjustment or a leaking master or slave cylinder. This is not unusual for a high mileage 2001 car. He's making excuses for something that's probably normal and just needs some maintenance done. However, if the maintenance has been ignored, this may be an indication of other issues that could appear later.

[Cos]

Originally posted by drifttube123


When I bought my AP1, the clutch engagement was super high but no slippage. Honda said it was worn out and needed replacement. They wanted over $2000 to replace it. FYI, I have since put in an ACT HD clutch and now the friction point is lowered about 2 inches and a bit heavier.

Good to know thanks. Where did you get the clutch done?


Originally posted by xviper

They went away from brass syncros with the notion that they would be more durable. Has nothing to do with reverse. Reserve doesn't use syncros. Next time you put it into reverse, try doing it from neutral (clutch up), then quickly push clutch down and put it into reverse on any S2000. It'll grind like crazy, showing there are no syncros. Put it into a forward gear (with syncros) then put it into reverse. No grind.
Being hard to put into reverse (or first or any other gear from a dead stop is an indication that the clutch is unable to fully disengage. This is likely the clutch fluid needing to be flushed and changed and/or the pedal throw needing adjustment or a leaking master or slave cylinder. This is not unusual for a high mileage 2001 car. He's making excuses for something that's probably normal and just needs some maintenance done. However, if the maintenance has been ignored, this may be an indication of other issues that could appear later.

I guess that is true, I never thought about it. Ill make sure I check the clutch fluid when I look at it again. Like I said I noticed nothing wrong with the clutch when I drove it for 15 minutes, just the strange engagement point, so I dont know if he is being a little over the top about it.

Is there anyway for Honda to check the life of the clutch when they do their inspection? I will make sure they do a 1xx point inspection + compression test but the clutch is the only other worry I have now.

[jaylo]

Originally posted by Cos


Why does it sound bagged? It seems to be actual good shape. He was the one who said something about reverse. I didnt notice any problems with the tranny. The clutch does feel strange but I also noticed on a mini cooper that you have to let the clutch out quite a bit.

I would be interesting in checking it out though to see. Ill send you my number.

thanks!

clutch engagement and reverse grind sounds like it has not been driven or maintained properly.

I test drove many ap1 before I bought mine and most of the not so good ones have chatter and grinding on the transmission driving. Some of them even have excessive vibration you can feel on the shifter and all of these issues seems to be on the higher mileage s2000's.

I would say past 100,000 km's you'll bound to have some clutch or transmission maintenance or issues that needs to be addressed

Pre purchase inspection from Honda is about $200 and you can ask them to check the clutch play and engagement

[Cos]

Fair enough that is the whole reason I asked the question. I appreciate your help guys. The guy actually works at honda as a service advisor so he said he would cover the inspection costs.

[xviper]

Originally posted by Cos
Is there anyway for Honda to check the life of the clutch when they do their inspection?


Originally posted by Cos
The guy actually works at honda as a service advisor so he said he would cover the inspection costs.

There is only one way to know for sure what condition the clutch is and that's to pull the tranny. However, a good mechanic who knows his cars can get a pretty good idea by doing certain routines on a test drive where you can load the clutch up and see if it slips. It's got 150,000 on the clock so you shouldn't expect any miracles or surprises. It's likely got 150K on the clutch. Why even wonder about it. Besides, if the guy who is selling the car also works at that dealer, can you really expect him to tell you the truth after an inspection is done? Do your inspection elsewhere.

[Cos]

Originally posted by xviper




There is only one way to know for sure what condition the clutch is and that's to pull the tranny. However, a good mechanic who knows his cars can get a pretty good idea by doing certain routines on a test drive where you can load the clutch up and see if it slips. It's got 150,000 on the clock so you shouldn't expect any miracles or surprises. It's likely got 150K on the clutch. Why even wonder about it. Besides, if the guy who is selling the car also works at that dealer, can you really expect him to tell you the truth after an inspection is done? Do your inspection elsewhere.

Agreed. I am not expecting perfection or even a vehicle that doesnt need work.

I figured the dealer couldnt afford to fake the inspection. That is a huge amount of liability on them. You think I should take it to a different dealer?

[xviper]

Originally posted by Cos


Agreed. I am not expecting perfection or even a vehicle that doesnt need work.

I figured the dealer couldnt afford to fake the inspection. That is a huge amount of liability on them. You think I should take it to a different dealer?
Don't know the dealer. Some, I would trust more than others. Some, I wouldn't put it past them to "stretch the truth" if the service advisor gave the mechanic a "wink, wink, nod, nod" (this isn't really "faking" it, just not full disclosure). Ordinarily, they got nothing to lose since they might even get the job if the inspection showed something wrong. In this case, somebody at that dealer can benefit by making a sale if the report comes back without anything really serious. A clutch is not necessarily a "safety" issue, so saying it's still good when it isn't won't likely kill anybody. It's not like a bad ball joint where if they lie and the car runs off the road and kills somebody, they could be liable. To say that a clutch is "still good" has many interpretations.
It's still considered a conflict of interest, so take that away from him and have it done somewhere else. T&T, Honda West and even Crowfoot Honda should be OK. Calgary Honda, I used to not trust with my Mattel Big Wheel.

[eglove]

If anyone's interested I have my spoon diffuser up for sale

[drifttube123]

Has anyone used the UK Spec alignment on their AP1? Since I need an alignment, I was thinking of trying it. Oh I plan to Auto X next year.

Factory specs for AP1:

Factory alignment spec
Front
Camber -0.5d +/- 0.17d
Caster +6.0d +/- 0.25d
Total Toe In 0+/- 2mm
Rear
Camber -1.5d +/- 0.17d
Total Toe In 6mm


Honda (UK) Recommended Optimum Specification

Front
Caster Left 6° 45"
Caster Right 6° 45"
Camber Left -1° 00"
Camber Right -1° 00"
Toe Left 0° 0"
Toe Right 0° 0"
Total Toe 0° 0"

Rear
Camber Left -2° 00"
Camber Right -2° 00"
Toe Left 0° 20"
Toe Right 0° 20"
Total Toe 0° 40"

Thanks.

[Skyline_Addict]

those are very moderate specs. good for daily driving. what're the specs of your wheels and tires? have a larger front swaybar? aftermarket suspension?

[drifttube123]

All stock, but tires will be +1 size all around.

[A2VR6]

Hmm that would be a decent street setup. I've heard good things about it. Plus with those specs the car will be reasonably neutral. Won't kill your tires either

[Errol.]

I ran the uk alignment last season with tein lowering springs and star specs. It was perfect for street driving and the odd track day.

Going back next season to close to those specs sicne theres no track.

[drifttube123]

Got the alignment yesterday and took her for a quick drive. It feels like the car is less twitchy, the back end seems more planted, but the turn in feels less quick.

[Skyline_Addict]

Hey Guys,

Have the following for sale:

OEM Leather Tonneau Cover $100
OEM Passenger Side Door w/ all AP1 Interior Panels (Silverstone) $250
OEM Passenger Side Fender (Rio Yellow, rolled) $100
OEM AP1 wheels (Spray painted black, no center caps, tires are bald) $ 275
OEM Driver Side Door AP1 Interior Panels $50.
OEM Side Strakes (one needs some repair) $30
OEM Front Hood (Rio Yellow, some rock chips) $300
OEM Trunk with OEM Spoiler (Rio Yellow) $300

[Errol.]

Is the driver side interior door panel the one with a tweeter?
Which side strake needs to be repaired?

[Skyline_Addict]

Mr Errol,

I don't believe it comes with the tweeter, but I can check.

drivers's side side strake needs to be repaired, but it isn't a big deal at all. assuming you're repainting the parts, the extra cost of repair isn't going to be substantial by any means.

PM me if you're interested.

[snow_daniel]

Originally posted by Skyline_Addict
Mr Errol,

I don't believe it comes with the tweeter, but I can check.

drivers's side side strake needs to be repaired, but it isn't a big deal at all. assuming you're repainting the parts, the extra cost of repair isn't going to be substantial by any means.

PM me if you're interested.

If you got the Door Panels with the Doors then NO it doesn't come with the Tweeter ...

[Skyline_Addict]

thanks daniel

[shadowz]

New Voltex kit race version, hmmmm


http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/Blogpics/slb2011/ap2-voltex06.jpg
http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/Blogpics/slb2011/ap2-voltex01.jpg
http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/Blogpics/slb2011/ap2-voltex02.jpg

[4doorj]

:drool:

[88CRX]

That front is crazy!

[simonseys]

I wonder what kind of fenders those are at the front, they seem a little wider than the stock :confused:

[euro_racer]

Anyone have a stock exhaust they wanna get rid of??

[shadowz]

Originally posted by simonseys
I wonder what kind of fenders those are at the front, they seem a little wider than the stock :confused:

Downforce carbon wide fenders

[v2kai]

Originally posted by euro_racer
Anyone have a stock exhaust they wanna get rid of??

Want a magnaflow setup instead?

[euro_racer]

Originally posted by v2kai


Want a magnaflow setup instead?

I'm looking to go quiet for at least the winter months and as far as I know magmaflow is pretty loud, is it not?

[euro_racer]

Ok I got a stock exhaust thanks to a friend... Does anyone have a stock header they wanna ditch or trade me? Tonight or tomm. After the stock exhaust is on, the header stays in the car for good.

[shadowz]

I have a stock header PM me if you're interested

[dimi]

What header is it anyway? I've got a stock one too.

[Skyline_Addict]

Hey Guys,

I'm also selling my seats. Price includes Bride FO Rails for each seat for the s2000.


Bride Vios III Lo-max - retail brand new @ ~$900 USD + shipping
http://www.risingsunperformance.nl/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/d/_/d_f42ssf.gif


Spoon Reclinable - retail brand new @ ~$500 USD + shipping
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/3054/image1jpg.jpg


Bride FO Rail for s2000 - retail brand new @ ~$275 USD + shipping
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/berlinas2k2/new%20pix/e1a58b24.jpg

Selling Bride Vios III Lo-max with Bride FO Rail for $850
Selling Spoon + Bride FO Rail for $450

Buy both together for $1200!

Seats are in gently used condition. No burns, stains, fading, etc.

[ekguy]

Those are some of the sickest side skirts I've ever seen. Minus the wing that car would be flawless.

[v2kai]

Originally posted by euro_racer


I'm looking to go quiet for at least the winter months and as far as I know magmaflow is pretty loud, is it not?

Yea this one is on the louder side. I'm the same. lookin to go a little quieter... I'm gettin old:poosie:

[Chantastic]

Hey I was wondering if any of you could give me any input as to how big (or how small) an S2000 trunk is. I don't really understand the golf bag reference because I don't golf nor do I know the sizes. Would say a suitcase roughly a foot thick, about 2 feet long, and a foot and a half wide fit?

Thanks. If any of you even have pictures of items in the trunk to give me an idea of space that would be great. I tried a lot of googling but I can't find anything good.

[eglove]

Yes, the suitcase will fit fine

[Chantastic]

how about a longer one, say 3 feet wide?

[xviper]

The S2000 trunk is deep but the bottom part is filled with the OEM foam tool tray and that is covered with an upholstered board. If you take out the board and put all the tools in a garbage bag and shove it above the spare tire, you'll have a trunk with a deep round space.
In the following picture, I've put all of this ........
http://inlinethumb64.webshots.com/48767/2913302360025981935S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2913302360025981935AvRLNG)

Into the trunk and this is what it looks like....
http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/48081/2155362260025981935S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2155362260025981935icLgvp)

You can kind of see the edge (or lip) where the board would normally go.

[Chantastic]

So in the picture you posted, the cover, foam tool tray, and spare have been removed right? Or is the spare sitting underneath all of that?

So the spare sits under this panel: http://www.burtmanindustries.com/s2000/s_trunk.jpg

[Joe-G]

The spare doesn't rest under the tool tray. It sits in between the passenger and the trunk. It hides behind that extruded cover you can see in the picture above.

[LUDELVR]

Originally posted by Chantastic
Hey I was wondering if any of you could give me any input as to how big (or how small) an S2000 trunk is. I don't really understand the golf bag reference because I don't golf nor do I know the sizes. Would say a suitcase roughly a foot thick, about 2 feet long, and a foot and a half wide fit?

Thanks. If any of you even have pictures of items in the trunk to give me an idea of space that would be great. I tried a lot of googling but I can't find anything good.

I can fit two acoustic guitars in their cases in the boot of the S but it's tight...and there's still space in that little divet where the tool tray goes.

[xviper]

Originally posted by Chantastic
So in the picture you posted, the cover, foam tool tray, and spare have been removed right? Or is the spare sitting underneath all of that?

So the spare sits under this panel: http://www.burtmanindustries.com/s2000/s_trunk.jpg
In the picture, the cover and the foam tool tray has been removed. The spare is behind that bulge you see (that looks like the outline of a compact spare) by the roll of paper towels.
When you have a flat tire, you put the OEM tool tray where the spare was and the flat goes vertically in the trunk in the hollow left when the tool tray is removed. If you are carrying your golf clubs or that large brief case and you have a passenger, you are screwed.
Later years of S2000s (like the CR) don't have a spare, only a tire repair kit. The ones with a spare, the spare goes ONLY on the front axle. If you have a flat on the rear, you put the spare on the front and the good front tire on the back. The spare on the rear will destroy the diff.

[Chantastic]

Good to know about the later models.

Thanks guys I really appreciate your help. I figured that buldge may have been the spare but I wasn't sure, I've never seen a setup like that, having never owned a 2 seater.

I am debating picking up a AP1 if I can find one for the right price, or a JDM vehicle. I had to ask about the trunk because I am used to having an S13 hatch, which can easily swallow up a adult bicycle if you have no passengers (not that I carry around bikes that often). I didn't think there was a chance of fitting in 2 guitars, it's bigger than I thought.

Thanks again, if I have any more questions I'll ask them here as you guys (or gals) are quick to reply!

[Chantastic]

Now I know some of you guys daily drive your cars, as in full year DD. How is it in winter? I am used to a lowered S13 on so-so winters and it's fine 95% of the time, the other 5% of the time it's ridiculously fun! As far as tire set up goes, are any of you guys running winters on the oem AP1 wheels? I saw a Best Motoring vid where they compared an AP1 to an AP2 on the track (dry), and the AP2 had 2 seconds on the AP1. Then they switched the AP2 wheels onto the AP1, and it shaved 2 seconds of time off. Would larger (and maybe wider) AP2 rims be better suited for winter?

And how about coilovers. Anyone run the same coils year round with no problems (leaking, clunking, squeaking, etc.)?

Any trouble spots I should look out for, particularly for rust?

Last question (for now): I am having a hard time finding an AP1 that isn't silver, yellow, or black. Are red and white generally a lot more rare?

Thanks. Sorry for so many questions.

[eglove]

I run all year round in mine. I have winters on my stock ap1's. I ran those last year no problem. This year though I stuck with my 17x9's and ran blizzaks all around. Drove around during the "big" snow this year. Never got stuck no problems. Just lots of thumbs up from
People. Lol.

My s2 is slammed on buddy club n+'s I've had no issues with than at all. They've been amazing. Even in the winter.

I have no rust on my from dd'ing all year. The only thing is surface rust on the a arms. And some slight surface rust from pulling my fenders/rolling.

[Chantastic]

I have become paranoid of rust ever since owning an S13 lol. I don't plan on slamming the car (if I pick one up) nor pulling fender liners or rolling, so by the sounds of it I should be fine.

Thanks for the info!

[PandaKing]

You will be great ! I love my s for the winter she was the funnest I've ever had. I'm lowered on just tein springs and it was great ! Only got stuck once wasn't to serious ! I ran wth my cf also and it held up fantastic !

[Errol.]

Anyone know if the CR has the hump for the spare tire?

[Jlude]

it doesn't

[stellerGT]

Hey guys, sorry, yet another will it fit question.

I'm looking at getting wheels that are:
Front 18x7.5 +48 on 225/40-18 tires
Rear 18x8.5 +46 on 255/35-18 tires

I will be on stock height with stock suspension. Do you guys think I will be rubbing much?

I was on another s2000 forum and I discovered that a member with a 9" width wheel wrapped in 255 rubber wih a +42 offset in the rear will rub on dips with stock suspension and height. I'm hoping a slightly higher offset and half an inch thinner wheel will keep me from rubbing.

For the rears, I seem to fall into the acceptable range in s2ki’s wheel fitment guide, however for the fronts I may need to get a 215 instead of 225?



For the front:
Offsets lower than +43 are not recommended on the front because a very narrow tire would need to be used to avoid rubbing.
+43 to +47 offset: 205 tires, 6.5" - 7.5" wide wheel
+48 to +52 offset: 215 tires, 7.0" - 8.0" wide wheel
+53 to +57 offset: 225 tires, 7.0" - 8.0" wide wheel
+58 to +62 offset: 235 tires, 7.5" - 8.5" wide wheel
+63 or higher offset: 245 tires, 7.5" - 8.5" wide wheel

For the rear:
Offsets below 40 are not recommended for the rear because a tire narrower than the stock tire would need to be used to avoid rubbing.
+40 to +44 offset: 235 tires, 7.5" - 8.5" wide wheel
+45 to +49 offset: 245 tires, 7.5" - 9.0" wide wheel
+50 to +54 offset: 255 tires, 8.0" - 9.5" wide wheel
+55 to +59 offset: 265 tires, 8.5" - 9.5" wide wheel
+60 to +64 offset: 275 tires, 9.0" - 10.0" wide wheel
+65 or higher offset: 285 tires, 9.0" - 10.0" wide wheel


Anyways, I’m hoping you gurus can chime in and let me know what you think of this setup, or what I can change to get the most optimal setup. Ideally I don’t want to roll my fenders, but I will if I must.

I’m pretty new to S2000s and I’m doing research as I go along. Thanks guys, appreciate the help!

[xviper]

The generic answer is ................... yes, those will work. However, in the real world, this will depend on the brand of tires you select. Some tires will have a more "blocky" sidewall to tread transition (eg. Bridgestone, Goodrich) while others will have a fairly round transition (eg. Michelin, Goodyear). If you get one with a round transition, you shouldn't have any problems. If you get tires that are quite blocky, then they could rub when the suspension is compressed heavily.
This has been most evident whenever an S2000 has 225 tires up front (on OEM rim sizing) and proceeding through a sharp right turn with an increase in elevation. The left front corner is the most likely to compress the most, causing that corner to rub.
With the offsets and widths you posted, there is a small chance that rubbing may occur on any of the car's 4 corners, depending on tire choice.

[Errol.]

http://blog.evasivemotorsports.com/?p=433

[stellerGT]

Originally posted by xviper
The generic answer is ................... yes, those will work. However, in the real world, this will depend on the brand of tires you select. Some tires will have a more "blocky" sidewall to tread transition (eg. Bridgestone, Goodrich) while others will have a fairly round transition (eg. Michelin, Goodyear). If you get one with a round transition, you shouldn't have any problems. If you get tires that are quite blocky, then they could rub when the suspension is compressed heavily.
This has been most evident whenever an S2000 has 225 tires up front (on OEM rim sizing) and proceeding through a sharp right turn with an increase in elevation. The left front corner is the most likely to compress the most, causing that corner to rub.
With the offsets and widths you posted, there is a small chance that rubbing may occur on any of the car's 4 corners, depending on tire choice.

Thanks for chiming in xviper, appreciate it. I took the plunge and bought a set of wheels in those specs I posted earlier. As for tires I'll have to do some more research. I've heard good things about Dunlop Star Specs. Do you know if they have a rounder transition like the Michelin and the Goodyears?

[xviper]

Originally posted by stellerGT


Thanks for chiming in xviper, appreciate it. I took the plunge and bought a set of wheels in those specs I posted earlier. As for tires I'll have to do some more research. I've heard good things about Dunlop Star Specs. Do you know if they have a rounder transition like the Michelin and the Goodyears?
I'm currently running Dunlop StarSpecs (265 X 17") on the back of mine for summer. They are of the "blocky" sidewall, like Bridgestone Potenzas. However, I'm using Volk rims with very high offsets (similar to OEM) and I have plenty of space under the wheel well for them. Even with the lower offset of the rims you have, if you stick with 225 and 255 combo, you should be fine except for those very rare occasions that you might completely compress your suspension. If you drive that aggressively, then you'll grind off one or two of the front fender liner holding pinheads. These are easily replaced. The rear has no liner so you'd touch the fender arch. In that event, increasing camber another degree should take care of it. A few guys do that anyway for more cornering performance.

[LUDELVR]

What's needed to swap in ap2 head lights into an ap1? Do the bumpers need to go too?

[xviper]

Originally posted by LUDELVR
What's needed to swap in ap2 head lights into an ap1? Do the bumpers need to go too?
Bumper comes off to get the headlights out but stay the same. AP2 lites need a bit of modification to the wiring since the harnesses are not quite the same. AP2 ballasts are a bit smaller.

[Chantastic]

You guys that run in winter, what do you do about the canvas top? A good protective coat of something? Or do you run hardtops? I'd imagine a hardtop would be a real paint to take on and off for winter/summer

[4doorj]

Originally posted by Chantastic
You guys that run in winter, what do you do about the canvas top? A good protective coat of something? Or do you run hardtops? I'd imagine a hardtop would be a real paint to take on and off for winter/summer
I use 303 spray for the top

[eglove]

Anyone want a spoon single exit for your stock exhaust + cash on your end?

[xviper]

Originally posted by Chantastic
You guys that run in winter, what do you do about the canvas top? A good protective coat of something? Or do you run hardtops? I'd imagine a hardtop would be a real paint to take on and off for winter/summer
Hardtop here. I have a winch system for lifting it and for hanging it during storage. You do it twice a year - no big deal.
BTW, the top is not canvass. It's PVC plastic. Treat it a couple times a winter. Don't use the top when it's cold or it'll crack.

[Errol.]

I use autoglym for my top. I don't drive my car in winter though. Put it on once in the spring and its good for the summer

[Chantastic]

How about with winter car washes? Should you dry it off before it freezes on it?

[eglove]

I've always wiped mine down right away afterwards, never had a problem.

Anyways, you've probably seen it in the marketplace already. But I really need to clear up some debt and sell my s2 :( I hate to do it. But if you guys know ANYONE interested please let me know.

http://forums.beyond.ca/showthread.php?s=&threadid=335791

[Chantastic]

Kind of a long shot, but is there a member here with a black S2 (dunno if it was an AP1 or an AP2), with dark colored rims (possibly bronze), blueish hid, a bunch of digital a-pillar gauges (probably AEM), and a GT style wing that sits super super low on the trunk? Like a carbon wing that is barely even lifted off of the trunk at all, kinda like this one, but even shorter: http://www.risingsunperformance.nl/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/w/r/writeimg100516345.jpg

[EM1FTW]

Sounds like Clayton's car. Did it have a fmic and cf front end?

[Chantastic]

It was at night so it was too hard to see (flew up behind me really quick). Saw it on country hills, last summer.

edit: caucasian guy driving it from what I remember

[Errol.]

Yeah that is probably Clayton. His username on here is PandaKing i think.

(That was me posting on EM1FTW's account)

[Chantastic]

Do you know what turbo kit he is running?

[Errol.]

It has a kraftwerks supercharger

[Chantastic]

ahhh, thanks

[2Legit2Quit]

Not sure if it's been covered in this thread already yet or not but since it's so long I don't really want to go digging through 100 pages....so all y'all s2k owners, are any of you overly tall?

I want to buy for in the next couple months but I've only sat in the passenger seat of a s2k almost 2 years ago to which I recall it not being too bad but it was still a while ago. I'm about 6'4ish so I'm fairly tall. I know you can buy the Backyard Special seat rail to drop the seat about an inch or so, but just wondering if any of you can give me any input in regards to leg room, head to windshield level, etc. Yeah ideally I'd just go sit in one but I'm in Red Deer and don't know anyone who owns one.

Thanks

[eglove]

Be a tight fit for you with stock setup. You can come sit in mine with a spoon bucket and Alex low rail. I'm far nw Calgary which would be close-ish if you come into town.

[Errol.]

My friends about your height and decided to sit in my car without a seat when i was putting my bucket in. He said that was the perfect height for him haha. Everyones different though. With the top down i've seen people drive s2 with their hair sticking above the windshield.

[kobe tai]

So I'm looking for a decent priced 02+ s2000. If anyone is selling please pm me the details.

[Skyline_Addict]

pm'ed

[4doorj]

Originally posted by kobe tai
So I'm looking for a decent priced 02+ s2000. If anyone is selling please pm me the details.
I'm not selling, but just curious how much are you looking to spend?

[kobe tai]

really depends but would like to stay under $20k.

[2Legit2Quit]

I'm also looking now, conditionally sold my car tonight without even listing it for sale so I'm ready to buy a bit earlier than expected. 2003 preferably but send me any info obvs. Looking to spend under 20k as well. Thx

[v2kai]

anyone have a CR front sway for sale?