Please Read: Imported Rx7's

[Honda_002]

I am posting this as a cautionary warning for others and I hope that this thread is in the right place first of all, and that perhaps the mods will sticky this because it sickens me to see it happening to more and more people.

First of all I would like to start off by saying that I purchased an FD3S from an importer. The car had 112, xxx kilometers and upon inspection it occured to me that the car was in perfect running condition. I will leave the importers name unmentioned for the simple fact that not doing your homework on cars will get you in a pile of trouble, especially this one, so in a sense the importer was innocent to an externt. Regardless the importer acknowledged the fact that granted I did a tune up (plugs, plug wires, fuel filter) the car would run perfectly, although it already had a seemingly perfect idle, and it drove well too.

3 Months later I was in the car wash washing my car, and when I went to start it, it ran like shit, it basically sounded like a bridgeported car. I blew an apex seal and lost all my power from my rear housing. I paid a decent penny for this car and it was to be sold in "good running condition," which it was AT THE TIME.

So the moral of the story is that JDM FD's are often bagged hard, and put away wet. Maitenance is often abused and the conclusion I have come to is that there is a myth that apex seals (the lifeline of any rotary motor) usually go around 120 000 kilometers if the car has been used and abused. Hence these japanese cars are diagnosed with low compression which basically means the owner of the car has knowledge that the apex seals are about to go. So the car is shipped to canada and like suckers we buy the car thinking it runs great, and boom 3 months later you are left with a broken FD.

Now this obviously isnt a problem with some people because they will just rebuild the engine and its good again BUT dont kid yourself this is no little b16 engine rebuild. Rotaries cost ALOT, re mans from mazda cost around 4900 (let alone the money to pull the old motor, and put the new one in), and rebuilds cost at least 5500 for a bare bone rebuild, at a reputable shop, let alone the fact that lots of times there are extra's like needing a new wiring harness (1800$ alone), new motor mounts, coolant lines, vaccum lines ( theres at least 30 feet of them) solenoids, turbo's ect ect. So case and point dont buy FD's unless they are compression tested ect, ect

I am taking the plunge in a rebuild and I am paying up the a$$ for it and I am seeing it occur more and more often, such as the yellow FD that is for sale right now. So go ahead and buy one, they are lovely cars, but be prepared to turn at least 6000 on a minimal rebuild let alone the fact that few people do it.

Bash me if you want for diving in without compression testing the car, but I think that its a little shady that importers are selling these cars to us, and of course we get suckered in because everyone dreams of having skylines, 3000gt's ect.

Anyways thats my heads up and I hope some people read this and really dig deep before they cut checks for a never ending money pit.

Mark:closed:

[Honda_002]

example:
http://forums.beyond.ca/st/188221/fs-jdm-fd/

[QuasarCav]

I don't consider myself a genius but this is common sense.

[Honda_002]

well good for you, heres a cookie. Some people dont think of that hence why I posted this thread.

[Crymson]

Hey Mark. Sorry for the rough luck! You're not the only person this has happened to, if you makes you feel any better. I know of 2 others. Alot of people are going to say "I told you so", and if if you dig back through the old threads, there was a thread last year where a fellow beyonder who spends a significant ammount of time working on RX-7s IN JAPAN said this was going to happen.

There have been a few pleasant surprises where people have gotten good JDM FD's but it seems to be the rare case.

Let me know if i can help.

[finboy]

maxt on here knows his rotaries, or swap an ls1, either way you cut it, ANY car that you buy sight unseen can have issues like this

[Toms-SC]

No, really?

[pulse_crx]

Any car you import from japan can have unseen problems. Even thought I went with a private source importing my sw20 myself and they told me the condition of the car, 3kms, actually 3 kms, from when I picked it up my clutch went. I cant really blame it on the exporters or the shippers or whoever, but thats the risk when you import a car from another country.

Either way you look at it, its not like they purposly meant to do it to you, these cars arent worth very much at all in Japan, and thats why we see sooo many of them here now!

Talk to the guys at rx7 spec, my buddy works there and they do some really good work, or just get a new JDM motor from a sponser here and skip the rebuild.

[slammed_cb7]

Perhaps we should just outlaw rotaries all together:dunno:

[Honda_002]

yeah Im balls deep in a new motor at rx7 specialties, should have some nice little goodies when its all done, ill post when I get it back, and for anyone saying no shit, told you so, I personally knew it was going to happen soon, Crymson can attest to that im sure, but regardless shit happens and not everyone thinks of these things so I thought I would post a little heads up and save some people money.

[Honda_002]

thanks for the concerns too guys, and knock it off with the useless fucking posts, not everyone lives eats and breaths cars, so if you have a stupid comment to post, post it somewhere else, because this thread wasnt started so you guys can look like know it alls, it was started as a warning

thanks.

[CivicTunr]

Originally posted by Honda_002
yeah Im balls deep in a new motor at rx7 specialties, should have some nice little goodies when its all done, ill post when I get it back, and for anyone saying no shit, told you so, I personally knew it was going to happen soon, Crymson can attest to that im sure, but regardless shit happens and not everyone thinks of these things so I thought I would post a little heads up and save some people money.


doesnt everyone always say stay away from rx7 specialties, cause its a hack job, and the guys a idiot, and his work sucks? :dunno: thats what ive read before, about rotaries.

[gram]

Why don't people realise that there is a reason the Km's are low on JDM cars. Japan is an island and most of the cars sit in rush hour traffic 90% of their lives...this is why most of the engines are dead or dying at 120kms. Their Km's are a lot different than ours.

[ken-gsr]

Well I appreciate the warning. I have always wanted a FD and seriously considered purchasing one. I have heard some horror stories, but thought they were all a little far fetched. After seeing this post and the FD for sale right now, I will definitely think twice and do some DD if I ever decide to buy one.

I hope everything goes well for your rebuild.

[Honda_002]

I actually went to his shop, looked at his products, some of his work, and from my prespective, and a couple other RESPECTABLE people's opinions he does good work. He takes time to show you everything, the processes, all that and I spent at least an hour in his shop chatting before price or anything was negotiated, and he warranties his work so I am not worried at all.

[ca18det240sx]

Actually, word to the wise, about 100,000km + or - 20,000km is the time that 13brew normally blow up. When i worked at rx7, most fd that i saw come in had 100,000km on them, or close to that number. Thats why i dont consider an rx7 coming from japan with 100,000km, worth while. If you DO want a rhd fd3s, i would reccomend pulling apart the engine and rebuilding it BEFORE an apex seal blows, thusly saving you an iron, a rotor, a housing, and possibly a pair of turbos.

[Honda_002]

Originally posted by ken-gsr
Well I appreciate the warning. I have always wanted a FD and seriously considered purchasing one. I have heard some horror stories, but thought they were all a little far fetched. After seeing this post and the FD for sale right now, I will definitely think twice and do some DD if I ever decide to buy one.

I hope everything goes well for your rebuild.
glad to hear that my post isn't completley fucking useless, good luck in your search, and honestly try to get a hold of a low kd LHD fd.

cheers

[b_t]

So, Mark... what you are going to need is an aggressive street port and a T04E ;)

[Honda_002]

^street port is on the way, and the turbo's are in the future, lol spending all my money on new ceramic coated housings and porting and exhuast and blah blah, but im super stoked to get it back, ill have to take you for a rip

[Team_Mclaren]

Its the same with used car, but you seem surprised (since you actually made this thread)? why?

My friend (CSMRX7) has had his jdm FD for 3 months, the car sees more track millage than street and its running perfectly fine. Everyone knows that the apex seal can blow so whats new? What im trying to get at, is that people dig themselves a hole by buying one of these MYTH jdm FDs, has no idea about the car history, and expect it to be "mint".

you drove the car for 3 months, its made in 1992. Like you said, the car was running good when you bought it. How much K have you put in it? how is it shady that the importer sold you the car. Can you prove that the car was abused, and that the importer knows about it? There are importers out there that import shitty condition vehicles, i wouldnt doubt it, just like many used car lots here in calgary. But the fact that you have had it for 3 months means anything can change. You bought a USED car, I thought it was common sense that a 15 year old car would suffer mechanical failures, let along a RX7

you bought an FD and expected it to be cheap to maintain? Heres a tip, theres a brand new civic at a honda dealership near you. Comes with warranty as well.

[Honda_002]

I thought I would add one more thing, when you purchase the car dont let them take it to THEIR mechanic for the oop. My horn isnt working and it HAS to for it to pass inspection, so watch for corrupt mechanics passing inspections for the importer.

[dimi]

Are 20b's any more reliable than 13b's?

[crazydave]

hmmm that sucks. glad you are taking care of it and not getting rid of it... i bought a FD from japan,that looked like it had the piss beaten out of it, 133k...i have been driving it since febuary and it has been perfectly fine.runs perfect,boosts fine,did i get lucky? it was mostly stock accept for a tuned ecu and wires and exhaust with boost controller.so dont consider every FD with 100k on it a write off... keeping on top of proper maintaince (like any car!) is a must.but maybe a little more attention is needed for this wonderful cars.

[ca18det240sx]

Most 20b that you bring here have ZERO compression anyways, so you need to tear them apart and rebuild.

adam had 5 of them at rx7, and not one of them tested above 10 psi on any of the chambers. And every one of them, the oil looked like tar, that they would use to make hiways, disgusting.


all rotaries are pretty well the same, in that the weakest link is the apex seal. Always has been the rotary's biggest weakness, always will be.

[JAYMEZ]

Ugh not another one of these threads... Seems like everyone that buys an FD always thinks nothing is going to go wrong and its an easy car to maintain.. ITS NOT! Its a sweet ass car , but you better have money to spend on this puppy and a second car.

[Honda_002]

Originally posted by Team_Mclaren
Its the same with used car, but you seem surprised (since you actually made this thread)? why?

My friend (CSMRX7) has had his jdm FD for 3 months, the car sees more track millage than street and its running perfectly fine. Everyone knows that the apex seal can blow so whats new? What im trying to get at, is that people dig themselves a hole by buying one of these MYTH jdm FDs, has no idea about the car history, and expect it to be "mint".

you drove the car for 3 months, its made in 1992. Like you said, the car was running good when you bought it. How much K have you put in it? how is it shady that the importer sold you the car. Can you prove that the car was abused, and that the importer knows about it? There are importers out there that import shitty condition vehicles, i wouldnt doubt it, just like many used car lots here in calgary. But the fact that you have had it for 3 months means anything can change. You bought a USED car, I thought it was common sense that a 15 year old car would suffer mechanical failures, let along a RX7

you bought an FD and expected it to be cheap to maintain? Heres a tip, theres a brand new civic at a honda dealership near you. Comes with warranty as well.
Apparently you are unclear on what was posted. I purchased the car with the intention of rebuilding it. I knew the car was expensive to maintain, this thread was simply made to warn people such as the guy selling his yellow FD. Also if you look at the end plates and the housings you can usually get an idea of wether the car was maintained or not. Anyone else care to add useless shit :dunno:

[01RedDX]

Another rotary deja-vu lol. The funny thing is I will still consider buying another rotary in the future, but a) I will have a budget set aside for a rebuild and b) I will have the compression test done in front of me. This rules out imports. Lesson learned. Also, the rebuild costs you mentioned sound a little steep. Where are you getting the work done?

[braden883314]

Originally posted by Honda_002
Now this obviously isnt a problem with some people because they will just rebuild the engine and its good again BUT dont kid yourself this is no little b16 engine rebuild. Rotaries cost ALOT, re mans from mazda cost around 4900 (let alone the money to pull the old motor, and put the new one in), and rebuilds cost at least 5500 for a bare bone rebuild, at a reputable shop, let alone the fact that lots of times there are extra's like needing a new wiring harness (1800$ alone), new motor mounts, coolant lines, vaccum lines ( theres at least 30 feet of them) solenoids, turbo's ect ect. So case and point dont buy FD's unless they are compression tested ect, ect

I am taking the plunge in a rebuild and I am paying up the a$$ for it and I am seeing it occur more and more often, such as the yellow FD that is for sale right now. So go ahead and buy one, they are lovely cars, but be prepared to turn at least 6000 on a minimal rebuild let alone the fact that few people do it.

you said your car was running perfectly when u bought it. A compression is unlikely to foreshadow a apex seal blowing in 3 months time.

Sure it'll cost you that much if you take it to rx7 specialties, There are other rotary builders out there. Rotary forums are your friend. He'll change what he knows he can get. You'll get a good result none the less. But your making it sound like this price is written in stone. You can pull a motor yourself.

And why do you NEED a new wiring harness? whats wrong with the old one? fuck i have a complete RHD FC3S harness in a LHD chassis. Buy a used one. Or you can even repair the old one if you have patience. New stock anything cost a arm and a leg. If there's nothing wrong with stuff why fix it? Your making it be that expensive.

Rebuild could be had for under $2000 if your smart about it.

Without a doubt its to bad. But you even said it yourself, lack of research in the beginning and you also failed at it now to.

I'd had no problems with my imported rotary engine.

[gpomp]

a rotary with problems?

http://www.unsanity.org/images/Orly.jpg

[Honda_002]

first of all a lower compression could be hinting in the fact that your seals are going soon but regardless it happened and now its going to be fixed. As for rx7 specialties I am more than happy paying money for new parts good work and of course I can pull the motor, but as for putting it back in I wouldnt, because if for some reason something goes wrong he can point out the fact that the failure was largely due to the fact that the motor was installed incorrectly. As for the wiring harness, alot of them are shot by that time and sure you can repair them but why take a risk? Sure you fix something, but its likely that it will fail later and you should know that removing the harness from that car isnt a cheap repair. Regardless it happened and hopefully people will gain some knowledge from this thread besides all the useless bull shit that people are posting.

congratulations on finding a strong running fd. Im glad:thumbsup: take car of it, there awsome cars.

[ca18det240sx]

Originally posted by gpomp
a rotary with problems?

http://www.unsanity.org/images/Orly.jpg


ROFL.

[Honda_002]

Originally posted by gpomp
a rotary with problems?

http://www.unsanity.org/images/Orly.jpg
lol :rofl:

[jdmakkord]

People fail to realize, auction cars are exactly what they are....auction cars. People unload shit cars here at auctions...it happens in Japan too.

[pattyt]

Originally posted by gpomp
a rotary with problems?

http://www.unsanity.org/images/Orly.jpg


i think that picture made my day LOLLL :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

[\JCAR/]

Originally posted by CivicTunr



doesnt everyone always say stay away from rx7 specialties, cause its a hack job, and the guys a idiot, and his work sucks? :dunno: thats what ive read before, about rotaries.
well i for one would say rx-7 specalties yes they have had done some things in the past that has given them a bad reputation, thats hard to shake it truly is but why rx-7 specialties does re-builds cheap is most of the external parts are used ie blocks an such but the customer is known of what used parts are going to be used.

but when something goes wrong with one of there motors that had used parts that they knew of goes wrong they get mad and go back on the company that did the work..

[Team_Mclaren]

Originally posted by Honda_002

Apparently you are unclear on what was posted. I purchased the car with the intention of rebuilding it. I knew the car was expensive to maintain, this thread was simply made to warn people such as the guy selling his yellow FD. Also if you look at the end plates and the housings you can usually get an idea of wether the car was maintained or not. Anyone else care to add useless shit :dunno:

So you had the intention of rebuilding it eh, or are you just upset, which is understandable, but then trys to blame it on the importer, the old japanese owner blah blah blah

Then why make this thread at all?
Thats with any USED car, do even need a thread on this? how about:
"how to cross the street, cars can hit you."
"caution, you can choked if you eat."
"hookers have aids, beware"

I think this thread is pretty useless. Because you are obviously just bitter

[ca18det240sx]

Originally posted by Team_Mclaren


So you had the intention of rebuilding it eh, or are you just upset, which is understandable, but then trys to blame it on the importer, the old japanese owner blah blah blah

Then why make this thread at all?
Thats with any USED car, do even need a thread on this? how about:
"how to cross the street, cars can hit you."
"caution, you can choked if you eat."
"hookers have aids, beware"

I think this thread is pretty useless. Because you are obviously just bitter

not all hookers have aids....some have herpes, or crabs, or a variety of others, sometimes in interesting conversations

:rolleyes:

[Honda_002]

lol, just leave my thread alone, fuck:rofl:

[Honda_002]

Originally posted by Team_Mclaren


So you had the intention of rebuilding it eh, or are you just upset, which is understandable, but then trys to blame it on the importer, the old japanese owner blah blah blah

Then why make this thread at all?
Thats with any USED car, do even need a thread on this? how about:
"how to cross the street, cars can hit you."
"caution, you can choked if you eat."
"hookers have aids, beware"

I think this thread is pretty useless. Because you are obviously just bitter
and if you would like to question me in terms of rebuilding you can ask crymson, I think i recall telling him im going to drive it till it blows and then rebuild it

now go and bastardize someone else's thread:closed:

[Lex350]

Originally posted by slammed_cb7
Perhaps we should just outlaw rotaries all together:dunno:




right...like there aren't any bagged Skylines out there either.:dunno: :rolleyes:

[Crymson]

Originally posted by Honda_002

and if you would like to question me in terms of rebuilding you can ask crymson, I think i recall telling him im going to drive it till it blows and then rebuild it

Well, TECHNICALLY, that's what every rotary owner does.

[CSMRX7]

I don't know if I should bother replying to this thread but if you already know the car had poor compression you probably shouldn't have been driving it if you wanted to save money on the build.

The easiest way to save money on a rebuild is to do it BEFORE the engine blows!!

[canadianskyline]

So wait a second.

1. Everyone and their dog knows rotories are "tempermental" to say the least. Obviously you knew this at the time of purchase if you had "planned on rebuilding it".

2. The car was sold to you in perfect running condition. There is 0 blame on the importer.

3. How would you not check if the horn works when you bought the car? If I'm looking at buying a car I check out EVERYTHING and make sure it's working so it can either be fixed, or i can ask for money off and then fix it myself.

4. You bought a high mileage rx7.

5. Funny story, I'd rather have a heavily modified FD that I KNOW has been abused. At least you know the thing can/has taken a beating in japan. It is common knowledge that rotory engines need to be "put through their paces" once in a while instead of just being putted around building up carbon and crap. It could be argued that these rotories are blowing up because they haven't been abused in Japan, and then Joe Idiot ZOMG I just got an FD goes around banging it off the rev limiter til it blows up. The other thing is that modified rotories in general have been taken care of as far as oil changes and replacing vaccuum lines and making sure it stays cool and etc. Guys who mod cars in general know their shit and take care of reliability things as well as modify, especially with a rotory otherwise it will end up blown up very quickly.

6. You dont buy a rotory unless you know your shit, or you have enough money to just shell out on a rebuild at a shop and you dont care. If you're penny pinching just to buy the car then it was a dumb move to start with.

7. So, in closing, I guess what I'm saying is that you are being a whiny baby and this thread is stupid. Of course people know that a 15 year old car is gonna have issues, especially a rotory.

Oh, and whoever sold you the car deserves no part of the blame for this, the second you drove it off the lot they are not liable.....

[Honda_002]

for the last fucking time, this thread isnt about me or my car, I just thought I would post this as a warning for like the 900th time. I was simply using my car as an EXAMPLE!

thankyou

[Honda_002]

Chris are you mad because you got beat by an FD in drifting? just curious, I might has well say it one more time, I am not bitching about my car or the importer, and I even left the importers name out of it, out of respect of course, this thread in no way has anything to do with my car, it was simply started to give people a warning because most are lacking in common knowledge of the car

[Honda_002]

Originally posted by CSMRX7
I don't know if I should bother replying to this thread but if you already know the car had poor compression you probably shouldn't have been driving it if you wanted to save money on the build.

The easiest way to save money on a rebuild is to do it BEFORE the engine blows!!
yeah but it didnt really matter because I planned on going with new rotors, cermaic coated housings ect ect, I will basically just be reusing the intake manifold turbo's and so on

[ca18det240sx]

Originally posted by Honda_002
Chris are you mad because you got beat by an FD in drifting? just curious, I might has well say it one more time, I am not bitching about my car or the importer, and I even left the importers name out of it, out of respect of course, this thread in no way has anything to do with my car, it was simply started to give people a warning because most are lacking in common knowledge of the car

No, i think hes just mad in general, loves to run his mouth.

:thumbsup:

[Honda_002]

^no kidding he comes into every fucking thread yapping about shit

[b_t]

Originally posted by canadianskyline
snip for stupidity

It was not sold to him in perfect running condition. The horn was inoperable - but inexplicably, it passed the inspection anyway. So obviously the mechanic is not doing things by the book, and it would be easy to come to the conclusion that he is in bed with the importer to get otherwise substandard vehicles onto our roads. If the horn - a cheap electrical fix - passed, imagine what major mechanical problems were ignored. So he is justified in calling the importer shady.

70,000 miles is not high mileage. Not even remotely close. How many miles does your POS have on it? Last I saw it, it looked like about 290,000. If you would rather have an abused RX-7, you are an even bigger dumbass then I thought. There is a difference between "heavily abused" and "driven hard" in my book. Look up "abused" in the dictionary. If you are arguing that a car needs abuse to run well, please, turn in your forum membership with a PM to a mod with ban powers.

This thread was pretty stupid starting after the initial post (which is to be expected), but your post really takes the cake.

[Honda_002]

thankyou cody, that seems to take car of mr. fucking drift skyline, now if we could close this thread because I am sick of defending myself from these fucking morons, and this thread has turned into absolute shit.

thanks.

[ca18det240sx]

Like all other threads on beyond after about 5 posts, this one has gone down teh crapper


:closed:

[2000impreza]

I bought a Nissan S13 Silvia a few years back. The motor had to be replaced shortly after I took ownership of the car. Thats just how it is sometimes with imported cars. I would almost expect having to replace/rebuild the motor of any imported JDM vehicle.

[ca18det240sx]

The one biggest thing i have with alot of car owners in japan....THEY DONT CHANGE THEIR GODDAMN OIL. I had my ca18det in for 2 months, spun a bearing, took it apart...man it was sludge city, i couldnt tell my bolts from my bearing caps.

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

Originally posted by Team_Mclaren


So you had the intention of rebuilding it eh, or are you just upset, which is understandable, but then trys to blame it on the importer, the old japanese owner blah blah blah

Then why make this thread at all?
Thats with any USED car, do even need a thread on this? how about:
"how to cross the street, cars can hit you."
"caution, you can choked if you eat."
"hookers have aids, beware"

I think this thread is pretty useless. Because you are obviously just bitter

I dunno about you, but when I cross the road, I'm tall enough to be seen? :dunno:

[JCX]

Originally posted by finboy
maxt on here knows his rotaries, or swap an ls1, either way you cut it, ANY car that you buy sight unseen can have issues like this

I'm thinking the same. A blown engine in an FD is just a good opportunity to drop in an LS1. The weight balance won't be altered and you'll be able to make 300 WHP stock, 400 WHP with heads and a cam or even more if you add forced induction. Not to mention an LS1's are quite stout.

[CSMRX7]

Originally posted by JCX


The weight balance won't be altered

Completely false, but thanks for comin out!

[Honda_002]

Originally posted by LilDrunkenSmurf


I dunno about you, but when I cross the road, I'm tall enough to be seen? :dunno:
OOOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!

lmfao:rofl:

[teggypimp95]

Alot of people can say " you would of, should of, could of" when it comes to an issue like this. But its alot differnt when its your car and your in the hot seat.

Thanks for the heads up on importing cars. I guess even though going the extra mile when buying one to get it checked out is worth it even though its a pain becuase your just to damn excited to drive it! lol.

If thats your car in your sig it looks mighty fine, sorry for your bad luck. Maybe Its worth posting the importer u used. Some do the home work for you and some just bring over any car they can. Hope your engine rebuild goes well. Im sure it will be worth it in the long run.

[b_t]

Originally posted by CSMRX7


Completely false, but thanks for comin out!

Actually you are wrong, so nice try. Heavy ass rotary motor + twin turbos + cast exhaust manifold = all aluminum V8 with tube headers. They weigh almost exactly the same, except the LS1 makes more power with less frustration, and better mileage ahahah
Not to mention the center of gravity drops a little bit when you change the motor for the LS1 and add the slightly heavier Tremec T-56 six speed to the car.

[Maxt]

Heavy ass rotary motor.. Hmm 214 lbs....I've brought them home in my luggage..

[canadianskyline]

Originally posted by b_t


It was not sold to him in perfect running condition. The horn was inoperable - but inexplicably, it passed the inspection anyway. So obviously the mechanic is not doing things by the book, and it would be easy to come to the conclusion that he is in bed with the importer to get otherwise substandard vehicles onto our roads. If the horn - a cheap electrical fix - passed, imagine what major mechanical problems were ignored. So he is justified in calling the importer shady.

70,000 miles is not high mileage. Not even remotely close. How many miles does your POS have on it? Last I saw it, it looked like about 290,000. If you would rather have an abused RX-7, you are an even bigger dumbass then I thought. There is a difference between "heavily abused" and "driven hard" in my book. Look up "abused" in the dictionary. If you are arguing that a car needs abuse to run well, please, turn in your forum membership with a PM to a mod with ban powers.

This thread was pretty stupid starting after the initial post (which is to be expected), but your post really takes the cake.

Lol, i dont really give a shit what you think about my car, lol. It's got like 90 000 k on it by now, and it's a TRACK CAR. I own it to race it, it takes a beating, i keep it mechanically sound, but drifting is hard on shit. I cant believe the motor hasnt let go or i havent crashed it into the wall yet. It's fuckin set up to drift well, and it does exactly that, i dont give a shit if you dont think it should win a car show...lol.....it's a fucking track car....

As far as what i said about well used rotories. I guess i dont mean "abused", cause that's what the kids do with them here when they get them here bouncing them off the rev limiter without even doing an oil change or plugs. I just mean cars that have been driven to redline now and then, not some car a 50 year old lady has that never see's more than 3000 rpm. AFAIK I've always heard that rotories will last longer when they are at least put through their paces sometimes, like I said, they run really rich (in general) and build up carbon, running them somewhat hard helps to get rid of the carbon build up.

I dont have anything against rotories, I just think this thread is stupid....if you're buying a rotory you should damn well know you need to be educated, it's like buddie is coming on here saying some revolutionary shit about "watch out for those 15 year old rx7's.....they can break down and shit"....like omg really?

Just seems he was totally uneducated (bought car without working horn, then bitches about it later?) to buy this car and he probably drove the piss out of it while he had it.

Anyway, whatever, i never claimed im the best drifter out there.....w/e....i got beat by an fd, that's cool, conroy is a good guy, you guys are just reaching for shit to say about me...it's all good though, aren't u that douche bag who had that boosted NA talon or some shit? Last i checked you like to cause a lot of unneeded drama...pot meet kettle.....

[CSMRX7]

Originally posted by b_t


Actually you are wrong, so nice try. Heavy ass rotary motor + twin turbos + cast exhaust manifold = all aluminum V8 with tube headers. They weigh almost exactly the same, except the LS1 makes more power with less frustration, and better mileage ahahah
Not to mention the center of gravity drops a little bit when you change the motor for the LS1 and add the slightly heavier Tremec T-56 six speed to the car.

You might want to get your facts straight.

The LSX motors do only add a small about of weight to the front of the car, but the also mount higher in the engine bay. The rx7 has amazing agility and turn in due to the low mount of the engine (and the lowered overall center of gravity). An equally equiped rotary car will always walk circles around an LS RX7 in cornering and braking due to the lower mounting position. It has been proven time and time again.

[canadianskyline]

From what I've read, the LSX motors are in actuality heavier, because everyone usually deletes their air conditioning at the same time as doing the swap.

So if you tried to install the LSx with A/C it would be I'd imagine another 50 or 100 pounds heavier than what people say it is (and all that weight is in front of the front wheels).

[Honda_002]

Once again douchebag drifter rears his ugly head

1) This thread wasnt started because my apex seals went, it was to inform people of these cars, because I have personally seen at least 4 occurences of people buying FD's, and having them break down shortly after. If you have common sense this MIGHT lead you to the conclusion that people should be informed of such an issue, its kind of a head scratcher isnt it? Apparently so, a couple people have troubles grasping this concept:rolleyes:

2) I was in no way bitching about my horn not working, once again it simply points out the fact that these cars can possibly be unsafe, and due to the fact that my horn doesnt work, I wonder what else was overlooked, but once again thats not me bitching, thats me giving people a heads - up.

3) If you would like to start a thread about swapping in a v8 then please feel free to do so.

4) I didnt drive the piss out of my car, but regardless of what i tell you facts show that you have a narrow mind and struggle grasping simple tasks such as reading comprehension, and general common sense.

5) This thread, as I have stressed multiple times, was created in the hope that people would become more educated when making their purchases on imported rx-7's, but like every other thread on this forum it went to shit, thanks to slow witted rectal belches like yourself

I am sorry this thread came to this but its becoming increasingly obvious to me that this forum has a downside to it, morons with time on their hands, and a keyboard at their finger tips.

Thanks for destroying another perfectly good thread. Have a nice day:thumbsup:

[canadianskyline]

All im saying is that it is no surprise to anyone that knows anything about cars that there are a lot of these FD's blowing up.

It doesnt take a rocket scientist to figure out that cars with a "15 year old, 100 000 km + rotory engine that has been primarily driven in stop and go traffic, in a humid climate, where oil is expensive and people don't necessarily change their oil regularly" are going to blow up more often than a 2001 chev cavalier.

You seem to be the one with reading comprehension problems, but keep going with the drifter fag thing, i dont really give a shit, it is what it is, drifting has nothing to do with what we are talking about.

What I'm saying is that this is not some revolutionary shit you're talking about.

IT'S COMMON SENSE THAT THESE THINGS ARE GOING TO BLOW UP!!!!

If you didnt realize that then you were either very uneducated about the car, or a complete idiot.

Anyway, I'm done here.

Take a step back and look at what I'm saying, this thread is like a public service anouncement telling people red lights mean stop......it's common sense and someone who would come up with the idea to do it is probably a moron.

Anyway.....have fun with your $$ rebuild.....if you knew your shit you could probably save half that money (not to mention any shop is going to take a guy like you for a big ride the second you walk in the door not knowing shit)....but u dont.....oh well.


:rofl: :rofl:

[zieg]

Well, I am reminded of someone on here with the following in his or her signature:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/firebirdman1987/rotarywh6.jpg

[b_t]

Originally posted by CSMRX7


You might want to get your facts straight.

The LSX motors do only add a small about of weight to the front of the car, but the also mount higher in the engine bay. The rx7 has amazing agility and turn in due to the low mount of the engine (and the lowered overall center of gravity). An equally equiped rotary car will always walk circles around an LS RX7 in cornering and braking due to the lower mounting position. It has been proven time and time again.

Its pretty obvious you are in that "firmly rotary" club and staunchly defend "your" engine to the bitter end. I don't think you have ever actually seen where the rotary engine sits, do you? The equally equipped rotary will never walk circles around the LS. Even if the weight distro slips to 51-49 the LS will still win, just on the sheer torque available with a big motor and a 6 speed. Also remember that BMW M3s have higher centers of gravity then RX-7s but they seem to be a world class car. The car is still just as drivable afterwards, it just handles differently - not worse.

[01RedDX]

Originally posted by ZiG-87
Well, I am reminded of someone on here with the following in his or her signature:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/firebirdman1987/rotarywh6.jpg

:rofl::rofl: :rofl:

[Maxt]

He's owned 2 FD's , he probably knows where the engine sits, behind the centreline of the front wheels, making it a mid engine car.. That sig pic is from the North American guide to rotary engine tuning, its not the engine, its the people tuning them and attempting to make parts for them that are substandard in nature to circumvent mazda's parts pricing....Thats why the V8 into rotary cars gets so heated, alot of those guys turn the blame solely on the motor rather than their lack of knowledge of the powerplant, its easier to say the motor sucks rather than their ability to tune it,or build a whole pictured performance working system around it. And yes its a hard motor to tune, it follows very little of the conventions of typical tuning, and there are pretty much no English language books that address the tuning needs of a rotary accurately. Once you get them working well though, even though really I have a v8 background, the noise,power and powerband of a rotary is highly addictive..
Anyway back the original, I think it would pay to get a 15 year old car independently inspected before buying it, and driving it..

[CSMRX7]

Originally posted by b_t


Its pretty obvious you are in that "firmly rotary" club and staunchly defend "your" engine to the bitter end. I don't think you have ever actually seen where the rotary engine sits, do you? The equally equipped rotary will never walk circles around the LS. Even if the weight distro slips to 51-49 the LS will still win, just on the sheer torque available with a big motor and a 6 speed. Also remember that BMW M3s have higher centers of gravity then RX-7s but they seem to be a world class car. The car is still just as drivable afterwards, it just handles differently - not worse.

Your skiils of persuation are somewhat interesting. I am unclear as to what the M3 has to do with the conversation. Yes the M3 has a higher center of gravity, but the whole car was designed around it. The RX7 wasn't. Additionally go read up on how ceter of gravity affects car dynamics, and you will understand why mounting the engine so low and far back is a huge advantage!

[ninjak84]

Originally posted by canadianskyline
Oh, and whoever sold you the car deserves no part of the blame for this, the second you drove it off the lot they are not liable.....

I laughed at you pretty hard for being such a retard :rofl:

Of course, you're probably a used car salesman ...

The morals and ethics you're displaying belong in a 3rd world country.
How appropriate that you live in Lethbridge :rofl:
I bet you're the type of person who curbs a car, then laughs with his farmboys over it at the Duke.

[SHO]

Not to be a bastard, and I mean this in the kindest way but...

1. Japanese import cars have almost always had the odometes rolled back. If you are looking for a low kms car better to base everything with a visual inspection of the chassis.

2. This next one is my personnel opinion. I figure that the Japanese FD3S's coming out of japan are set up beautifully for Higher octane fuel than is available from the average street pumps in Alberta. This in itself is not a problem unless you get one that has modifications on it (especially a f-con or apex'i fuel management system) that has been tuned to use higher octane.
Even intake, exhaust and downpipe mods can really open up any rx-7 and cause lean issues. Let us also not forget Calgary is at an altitude of 1049 meters and Tokyo is between 30-45 meters. While this does not attribute a large change in atmospheric pressure maybe Calgary is approx 14.3-14.5psi, when coupled with moisture of the air in Japan ie. reletive humidity 75-90 while Calgary 45-55 typically you see a large deviance in Thermodynamic efficiencies.

So what I am saying is if you buy a Japanese car , Especially a rx-7 you should save some money to get it properly tuned to your new climate. (Not to mention change the plugs oil and coils to start with.)

Just a fellows opinion.

[Ekliptix]

I didn't read all the arguing, but here are some facts about FD LS1 cars, including the weight question.
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/faqFD.htm

[b_t]

Originally posted by CSMRX7


Your skiils of persuation are somewhat interesting. I am unclear as to what the M3 has to do with the conversation. Yes the M3 has a higher center of gravity, but the whole car was designed around it. The RX7 wasn't. Additionally go read up on how ceter of gravity affects car dynamics, and you will understand why mounting the engine so low and far back is a huge advantage!

To me, it looks like the LS is definitely lower...
http://www.hpsalvage.com/rx10.jpg

http://rlinney.users.btopenworld.com/RX7engine2.jpg

And there are numerous LSx RX-7 drivers who have Actually Weighed their cars on the scales and have observed the weight distro only changes to something like 50.3/49.7 (hardly the end of the world) and can be maintained at 50/50 easily enough (like if you flare out the rear of the car and put 345 series tires on it). The LS1 weighs 450 pounds fully dressed (with stock cast iron exhaust manifolds). The only site I could find with the 13B engine weight says 315 pounds for the engine, but then add a twin turbo setup and the associated plumbing and I would bet money there is only a 30-40 pound difference at the most between the twin turbo 13B-REW and a LSx with tube headers.

You also are ignoring the fact the T-56, having an extra gear and being built to hold far more power, is heavier then the stock RX-7 transmission but since it sits at the very bottom of the car and along the center, it doesn't mess with the weight distribution and actually helps lower the center of gravity. So if the LS motor does anything the raise it, the T-56 does everything needed to lower it again.

You have no argument here - the RX-7 is a car that is simply better with a V8 in it.

[Team_Mclaren]

Originally posted by LilDrunkenSmurf


I dunno about you, but when I cross the road, I'm tall enough to be seen? :dunno:

hmm... i didnt know height has anything to do with intelligent and common sense? Your logic is obviously flawed cause its not working for you. Do you actually know anything about this topic? or do you just feel left out?


Originally posted by Maxt
I think it would pay to get a 15 year old car independently inspected before buying it, and driving it..

guess its not common sense to do that, hence why you'll need a warning thread to let everyone know...

[Maxt]

A 13b does not weigh 315 lbs, your facts are wrong.

[A790]

Originally posted by b_t


To me, it looks like the LS is definitely lower...
http://www.hpsalvage.com/rx10.jpg

http://rlinney.users.btopenworld.com/RX7engine2.jpg

And there are numerous LSx RX-7 drivers who have Actually Weighed their cars on the scales and have observed the weight distro only changes to something like 50.3/49.7 (hardly the end of the world) and can be maintained at 50/50 easily enough (like if you flare out the rear of the car and put 345 series tires on it). The LS1 weighs 450 pounds fully dressed (with stock cast iron exhaust manifolds). The only site I could find with the 13B engine weight says 315 pounds for the engine, but then add a twin turbo setup and the associated plumbing and I would bet money there is only a 30-40 pound difference at the most between the twin turbo 13B-REW and a LSx with tube headers.

You also are ignoring the fact the T-56, having an extra gear and being built to hold far more power, is heavier then the stock RX-7 transmission but since it sits at the very bottom of the car and along the center, it doesn't mess with the weight distribution and actually helps lower the center of gravity. So if the LS motor does anything the raise it, the T-56 does everything needed to lower it again.

You have no argument here - the RX-7 is a car that is simply better with a V8 in it.

You can't simply negate the weight inclusion or position in a vehicle by offsetting it with a transmission. The RX7 handles as well as it does because of the engine that's in it and the weight/location of it. The vast majority of RX7 problems come from people who don't know how to properly maintain them or who perform modifications without proper preparation.

So yes, he does have an argument here, and you can beat the V8 horse until it dies- your opinion. I'd rather have a rotary RX7 than a V8 RX7.

[Ekliptix]

Originally posted by A790
I'd rather have a rotary RX7 than a V8 RX7.
Right. Some people are die hard rotary fans and others are not.

[b_t]

Originally posted by Maxt
A 13b does not weigh 315 lbs, your facts are wrong.

Then prove me wrong. Every source I've found so far says about 145kg for the 13B. Toss a COMPLETE 13B-REW (with everything right up to the turbo outlet) on a scale and tell me how much it weighs - most definitely more then 145kg.

I don't know why you are standing up for the rotary here. Last I heard, all your rotaries were either slow or broken.

[CSMRX7]

Originally posted by b_t




I don't know why you are standing up for the rotary here. Last I heard, all your rotaries were either slow or broken.


This is a funny statement. Maxt may have the highest hp rx7 in the province!!!

But besides this your arguement is a little scewed. To properly fit an LSX in an FD is going to cost around 15k (with labor). You compare the weight of an LSX with headers, no ac, no p/s to a stock FD.

The other miss conception is the FD stock does not have 50/50 distribution, it has about 48/52, more in the back. thisis because the entire engine is behind the front axel. Ever wonder why the rx7 has one of the best turn in feels of any car ever made. It is that distribution combined with the center of gravidy(part of the argument you seemed to have now ommited now).

You move that distribution forward, with a significant amount of the weight now in front of the wheels and the car completely looses this agile feel and begins to plow. Addid big rear tires like you claim will help makes it much much worse as the understeer only increases.

[CSMRX7]

Originally posted by Ekliptix
I didn't read all the arguing, but here are some facts about FD LS1 cars, including the weight question.
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/faqFD.htm

I don't know if I would call a site that is dedicated to making money by converting rx7s to V8s as an unbiased source.

[b_t]

I wouldn't call a guy who has spent tens of thousands on rotaries (Maxt) or yourself unbiased sources either. You can't even argue that... Maxt definitely has the most undrivable RX-7 in the province, but God knows if its actually fast. I have never seen him actually substantiate his so-called "expert" credentials anywhere. I have only ever seen two videos of his cars - one of the bridgeported one idling, and then one of a stock one being driven slowly on the track.

And now you are saying a weight distribution skewed to the back is actually desirable? Well, shit, if that was the case then why do Porsches only have 50/50 weight distributions? It'd be really easy for them to put the weight on the back wheels. The best handling cars in the world are all 50/50. The car may not be set up for 50/50 weight, but coilovers and sway bars can solve that. Then you get a faster, better handling car when you are done! I would bet that all the fast racing RX-7s have been tweaked to be 50/50. What would happen when you do this, is the car would be neutral all the way through a turn... if the weight is biased towards the back, the car would be neutral braking into the turn, but then understeer badly at the exit.

You have no argument! On one hand, you have a novelty engine (rotary) and then on the other, an engine with a tried tested and proven history of making big power, now in a lightweight, fuel injected, all aluminum package. Rotaries are still damn cool, and I appreciate a nicely built one, but if I owned Mark's car, I would be ditching the rotary, giving a big F U to the mega high labor rate at RX-7 Specialties and drop in a LS1/6 speed.

[soloracer]

Originally posted by b_t
I wouldn't call a guy who has spent tens of thousands on rotaries (Maxt) or yourself unbiased sources either. You can't even argue that... Maxt definitely has the most undrivable RX-7 in the province, but God knows if its actually fast. I have never seen him actually substantiate his so-called "expert" credentials anywhere. I have only ever seen two videos of his cars - one of the bridgeported one idling, and then one of a stock one being driven slowly on the track.

And now you are saying a weight distribution skewed to the back is actually desirable? Well, shit, if that was the case then why do Porsches only have 50/50 weight distributions? It'd be really easy for them to put the weight on the back wheels. The best handling cars in the world are all 50/50. The car may not be set up for 50/50 weight, but coilovers and sway bars can solve that. Then you get a faster, better handling car when you are done! I would bet that all the fast racing RX-7s have been tweaked to be 50/50. What would happen when you do this, is the car would be neutral all the way through a turn... if the weight is biased towards the back, the car would be neutral braking into the turn, but then understeer badly at the exit.

You have no argument! On one hand, you have a novelty engine (rotary) and then on the other, an engine with a tried tested and proven history of making big power, now in a lightweight, fuel injected, all aluminum package. Rotaries are still damn cool, and I appreciate a nicely built one, but if I owned Mark's car, I would be ditching the rotary, giving a big F U to the mega high labor rate at RX-7 Specialties and drop in a LS1/6 speed.

b_t: In regards to Maxt's credentials.....does being the canadian arm of a respected Japanese tuner shop (KKM) where he trained with guys who have spent more time on rotary engines than you likely have spent making use of inhaled oxygen count for anything?

[Team_Mclaren]

Originally posted by b_t
I wouldn't call a guy who has spent tens of thousands on rotaries (Maxt) or yourself unbiased sources either. You can't even argue that... Maxt definitely has the most undrivable RX-7 in the province, but God knows if its actually fast. I have never seen him actually substantiate his so-called "expert" credentials anywhere. I have only ever seen two videos of his cars - one of the bridgeported one idling, and then one of a stock one being driven slowly on the track.


just because you havent seem it... doesnt mean it doesnt exist.. or that its not true.
last i heard you had a NA then turboed dsm.. how did that go?

[CSMRX7]

Originally posted by b_t
I wouldn't call a guy who has spent tens of thousands on rotaries (Maxt) or yourself unbiased sources either. You can't even argue that... Maxt definitely has the most undrivable RX-7 in the province, but God knows if its actually fast. I have never seen him actually substantiate his so-called "expert" credentials anywhere. I have only ever seen two videos of his cars - one of the bridgeported one idling, and then one of a stock one being driven slowly on the track.

And now you are saying a weight distribution skewed to the back is actually desirable? Well, shit, if that was the case then why do Porsches only have 50/50 weight distributions? It'd be really easy for them to put the weight on the back wheels. The best handling cars in the world are all 50/50. The car may not be set up for 50/50 weight, but coilovers and sway bars can solve that. Then you get a faster, better handling car when you are done! I would bet that all the fast racing RX-7s have been tweaked to be 50/50. What would happen when you do this, is the car would be neutral all the way through a turn... if the weight is biased towards the back, the car would be neutral braking into the turn, but then understeer badly at the exit.

You have no argument! On one hand, you have a novelty engine (rotary) and then on the other, an engine with a tried tested and proven history of making big power, now in a lightweight, fuel injected, all aluminum package. Rotaries are still damn cool, and I appreciate a nicely built one, but if I owned Mark's car, I would be ditching the rotary, giving a big F U to the mega high labor rate at RX-7 Specialties and drop in a LS1/6 speed.

We got off on the weight distribution tangent but I am not to sure we covered the center of gravity. The reason for the slightly uneven weight distribution in the rx7 was to place the center of gravity in a position for ultimate drivability. If the weight in the front is highed than the weight in the back then there can be more weight in the rear to balance the center of gravity.

That being said I am not 100% sure you understand the dynamics of cornering. Either you don't understand how weight distribution affects over/understeer, or don't know what they are.

Can you explain to me why a car with more weight in the rear would understeer exiting a turn obviously you have advance knowledge I can't comprehend?

[Honda_002]

Originally posted by canadianskyline
All im saying is that it is no surprise to anyone that knows anything about cars that there are a lot of these FD's blowing up.

It doesnt take a rocket scientist to figure out that cars with a "15 year old, 100 000 km + rotory engine that has been primarily driven in stop and go traffic, in a humid climate, where oil is expensive and people don't necessarily change their oil regularly" are going to blow up more often than a 2001 chev cavalier.

You seem to be the one with reading comprehension problems, but keep going with the drifter fag thing, i dont really give a shit, it is what it is, drifting has nothing to do with what we are talking about.

What I'm saying is that this is not some revolutionary shit you're talking about.

IT'S COMMON SENSE THAT THESE THINGS ARE GOING TO BLOW UP!!!!

If you didnt realize that then you were either very uneducated about the car, or a complete idiot.

Anyway, I'm done here.

Take a step back and look at what I'm saying, this thread is like a public service anouncement telling people red lights mean stop......it's common sense and someone who would come up with the idea to do it is probably a moron.

Anyway.....have fun with your $$ rebuild.....if you knew your shit you could probably save half that money (not to mention any shop is going to take a guy like you for a big ride the second you walk in the door not knowing shit)....but u dont.....oh well.


:rofl: :rofl:
alright chris I will try my best to make this simple for you. I bought the car with knowledge of its background, BUT its obviously NOT common sense for SOME people because I HAVE PERSONALLY seen at least 4 issues of people buying FD's and having them break down weeks later. I simply used my car as an example

This is the reason this thread was created.

If you cant understand that then I give up, I honestly dont know how simple I can get, and I really dont understand how other people somehow lost the general message of this thread, it blow my mind.

Anywho we might as well turn this thread into an LS1 thread because my info is useless to people like you

[Team_Mclaren]

Originally posted by Honda_002

alright chris I will try my best to make this simple for you. I bought the car with knowledge of its background, BUT its obviously NOT common sense for SOME people because I HAVE PERSONALLY seen at least 4 issues of people buying FD's and having them break down weeks later. I simply used my car as an example



people taller than me are getting hit by cars everyday...so may be you are right its not common sense. Since there are idiots out there like the OP who expects otherwise and feel the need to bitch about it, then go on to make a "warning" (:cry: ) thread...:dunno:

btw: may be i should take your advice and make a thread about "how to cross the street too", since there are so many short asians on board. But then again, i doubt they are that stupid...:nut:

[b_t]

Originally posted by CSMRX7


We got off on the weight distribution tangent but I am not to sure we covered the center of gravity. The reason for the slightly uneven weight distribution in the rx7 was to place the center of gravity in a position for ultimate drivability. If the weight in the front is highed than the weight in the back then there can be more weight in the rear to balance the center of gravity.

That being said I am not 100% sure you understand the dynamics of cornering. Either you don't understand how weight distribution affects over/understeer, or don't know what they are.

Can you explain to me why a car with more weight in the rear would understeer exiting a turn obviously you have advance knowledge I can't comprehend?

:banghead: Keep going man, this is funny shit.

[b_t]

Originally posted by Team_Mclaren


last i heard you had a NA then turboed dsm.. how did that go?

I sold it and got a brand new truck that is worth more then all your vehicles put together :thumbsup:

[Team_Mclaren]

Originally posted by b_t


I sold it and got a brand new truck that is worth more then all your vehicles put together :thumbsup:

lol, we/re comparing car value now arent we? whats next? Whos family makes more money? :rofl: :rofl:

[b_t]

Originally posted by Team_Mclaren


lol, we/re comparing car value now arent we? whats next? Whos family makes more money? :rofl: :rofl:

We could compare spelling instead. I win.

[Team_Mclaren]

Originally posted by b_t


We could compare spelling instead. I win.

really?


Originally posted by b_t


I sold it and got a brand new truck that is worth more then all your vehicles put together :thumbsup:

"Than" not then... im sure you know the rest.:rofl: :rofl:

[gpomp]

Originally posted by b_t


We could compare spelling instead. I win.
you're comparing your spelling to the biggest fob in the world. even a 8 year old could beat him in a spelling contest, good job.

[b_t]

Originally posted by Team_Mclaren


lol, we/re comparing car value now arent we? whats next? Whos family makes more money? :rofl: :rofl:

we/re instead of we're, lol is not a valid contraction, arent instead of aren't, whats instead of what's, whos instead of whose... so like I said, I win.

[Team_Mclaren]

and lol is a word?

man this is the most entertaining late night thread ever:rofl: :rofl: thank you for educating me spelling police, can you fix everyone else's spelling too? Man you are almost as efficient as the spell check that i ignore.


Originally posted by gpomp

you're comparing your spelling to the biggest fob in the world. even a 8 year old could beat him in a spelling contest, good job.

thanks mainlander

[Maxt]

Originally posted by b_t


Then prove me wrong. Every source I've found so far says about 145kg for the 13B. Toss a COMPLETE 13B-REW (with everything right up to the turbo outlet) on a scale and tell me how much it weighs - most definitely more then 145kg.

I don't know why you are standing up for the rotary here. Last I heard, all your rotaries were either slow or broken.

First you said this :


Originally posted by b_t


The only site I could find with the 13B engine weight says 315 pounds for the engine, but then add a twin turbo setup and the associated plumbing.

And that is wrong, a 13b base engine wet as I said before is 214 lbs. Now add the rest of your hardware.. It isnt going to add up to alot more, around 300 lbs , and every engine has plumbing to add..
As far as to how much it all weighs together, there are about 4 people on this board that watched me pickup a complete 13b, with turbo and manifolds off the floor by hand, and I am no hercules..

And nice try at insulting me, my non turbo car makes more rear wheel horsepower than most peoples turbo cars, rotary or not.. There is a difference between a broken car and one that is being assembled as well..

[A790]

Originally posted by b_t


we/re instead of we're, lol is not a valid contraction, arent instead of aren't, whats instead of what's, whos instead of whose... so like I said, I win.

Once you realized that your arguments were going nowhere and are based on theory not fact (hopes and dreams) you resort to insulting the other parties. That's a sign of ignorance and stupidity, not intelligence.

Congratulations on your expensive truck. I'll be sure to wave as I blow past you, stop, wait for you to pass, and then blow past you again.

It's very obvious that you've never driven an FD. If you had you wouldn't be saying a word- the acceleration, handling, and driving dynamics of the car are second to none.

Why don't you stop trying to start a flame war in every thread you've ever posted in and just go away?

[soloracer]

Originally posted by b_t


I sold it and got a brand new truck that is worth more then all your vehicles put together :thumbsup:

Blew your wad on one vehicle, eh? Keep making those payments and eventually you might be able to catch up to the rest of us who have both a daily driver and a few other toys. Spending lots of money on a vehicle doesn't make you any smarter or any better than anyone else. From your condescending attitude you think it does.


P.S. Just read through the Hinson site and one thing you forgot was cost. They say the conversion will cost $8,656.72 and then you have to buy the engine and transmission. By the time you are done I don't doubt that you are looking at $20K Canadian......which is more than enough to buy another complete FD. Conversions are never cheap. I know a guy with an LS1 BMW and the car is a screamer but even he won't say it could be done properly cheaper than it would to rebuild the stock engine to similar performance levels.

[soloracer]

Originally posted by b_t


:banghead: Keep going man, this is funny shit.

Seeing as how CSMRX7 is an engineer by trade and is one the faster autocross drivers here I fail to see the humour.

Just for thought - early 911's had a high rear weight bias. And we all know how badly they understeered. ;)

[b_t]

Originally posted by A790


Once you realized that your arguments were going nowhere and are based on theory not fact (hopes and dreams) you resort to insulting the other parties. That's a sign of ignorance and stupidity, not intelligence.

Congratulations on your expensive truck. I'll be sure to wave as I blow past you, stop, wait for you to pass, and then blow past you again.

It's very obvious that you've never driven an FD. If you had you wouldn't be saying a word- the acceleration, handling, and driving dynamics of the car are second to none.

Why don't you stop trying to start a flame war in every thread you've ever posted in and just go away?

Actually, once again it came down to import vs. domestic and that just never ends well on this forum. Team McLaren begs to be insulted. And once again, everyone is standing up for a car that was So Great they stopped making it in 1994 and only made 13,879 of them for the north american market. That sounds like an absolutely gigantic success to me! If the car was as good as everyone here is saying, then you would think they would have continued making it, because then people would have bought it.

As far as the whole blow past me thing - go ahead and do that, it doesn't bother me. That's why I bought a truck :nut:

And then your little paragraph about the FD... second to none eh? That is blatantly false. And then the flame war comment! Its not ever my intention, and also remember, it is a team effort.


Originally posted by soloracer


Seeing as how CSMRX7 is an engineer by trade and is one the faster autocross drivers here I fail to see the humour.

Just for thought - early 911's had a high rear weight bias. And we all know how badly they understeered. ;)

I've heard a lot of people say they understeer. That is right in line with what physics says they will do. With a car like the RX-7 a rearward bias makes the car safer to driver because it is easier to deal with understeer then oversteer in a car with such a low center of gravity.

The Hinson kit is also the most expensive by far. You can get it done for much less. Having more then one vehicle doesn't make sense, but when I do get my fun car, it is going to be a new Camaro. I have sat in a few RX-7s and the FC isn't bad but the FD is too small and very uncomfortable. And it doesn't matter that he is an engineer - he can still be stupid.