TOYOTA GUYS!! 2JZ turbo options

[DonJuan]

long story short...
I'm pretty sure the turbo seals on my Aristo are old and they are starting leak when the car has been sitting for a while, so the usual smoke at startup, but it goes away almost immediately, and doesn't happen at all if the car hasn't been sitting less than a week.

So I'm wondering if I should just pay to rebuild the ceramic CT12's that are in it now, or maybe upgrade to 2 CT20's?
Is such an upgrade even possible?

I'm kina new to this whole Toyota turbo thing. What would I have to change other than the turbo's? Would they bolt on in the same location? and maybe an injector upgrade? I don't wanna go to the steel turbo's as it will add lag and this car will never see more than 350-400 hp.

It is going to be just a daily driver (I have a toy already), but a little more power is always nice. May just tune the ECU for a little more boost.

This is ultra budget, like I wanna spend $500 total. I can get the turbo's rebuilt for about $250.

Any info or opinions you have please post them up. Especially any better ideas.

BTW: My car is exactly as it rolled off the assembly line, and I kina want to keep it looking that way. So no big single turbo upgrades.

[stevo 27]

if you can get both turbos rebuilt for 250 why dont you just do that and turn up the boost to 15psi ??

and cut your cats

easy said and done youll have more power

your fuel system should be able to habdle anything the ct26's should be able to throw out allthough the jdm 2jz's came with smaller injecters i dont know exactly how much smaller

[DonJuan]

I think they have 440cc injectors and the USDM has the 550cc.

[talonboi]

i dont think the CT12s can handle anything over 13psi, as recommenced by reg reimer. get the ct20s install and you should be happy

[Annoyingrob]

Originally posted by talonboi
i dont think the CT12s can handle anything over 13psi, as recommenced by reg reimer. get the ct20s install and you should be happy
I'm almost certain Aristo motors already come with CT20s. Supra motors come with CT12Bs. And Reg is just over-cautious when it comes to boost on them. Granted, he HAS destroyed more than a few sets of ceramic CT12Bs on one of his Supras, but then again, it's rally driven......

I ran 17psi on my CT12As FWIW, and never had problems.

If you don't want to spend money, or make a lot of power, stock replacement turbos would be your best bet. Hell, I have a set of Aristo turbos I could sell you for $200 if you wanted them.

The problem you're going to face though, it's a PAIN IN THE ASS to get the turbos off. If I were you, I would spend a grand, get a cheap manifold, and a GT30, and put it on while you have the old turbos off.

[JAYMEZ]

Originally posted by Annoyingrob


The problem you're going to face though, it's a PAIN IN THE ASS to get the turbos off. If I were you, I would spend a grand, get a cheap manifold, and a GT30, and put it on while you have the old turbos off.


So true , what a pain in the fuckin ass!

[Annoyingrob]

Actually, now that I think about it, if you're going to pull the turbos off, save yourself the headache, and pull the motor first. It will take you less time to pull the motor, THEN pull the turbos, as it would to just pull the turbos off in the engine bay.

It takes me about 10 hours to pull 1JZ turbos off, and put them back on in an engine bay, whereas I can pull the motor in 3 hours, swap the turbos in an hour, then put the motor back in in 3, and it's a lot less of a PITA.

That's for a 1JZ. 2JZ is longer, as the turbocharger set up is WAY more complex.

(or I can pull my GT40 in the engine bay in about 20 minutes ;))

[DonJuan]

Kewl Thanks for the info guys. It looks like I'm just gonna use some stock turbo's then. (I'll be in touch Rob)

17psi is a little high. I was thinking 14psi or so would be plenty.

You think I should get Reg to reprogram the ECU for the extra boost etc, or just run an Emanage or Power FC? Or (shudder) one of those manual boost controllers.

[hellraiser456]

if you are just turning up the boost...you won't need any fuel control. the ecu will know what to do.

just find a nice electronic boost controller. manual ones suck.

[Annoyingrob]

Originally posted by DonJuan
You think I should get Reg to reprogram the ECU for the extra boost etc, or just run an Emanage or Power FC? Or (shudder) one of those manual boost controllers.
Toyota turbo cars run rich from the factory for safety. REALLY rich. Upping the boost from stock to 14psi is not going to require any sort of fuel management. Seriously. It's a set and forget sort of thing. For example: my 1JZ on stock ECU ran 10:1@14psi.

All your'e going to need is a boost controller. Manual boost controllers ARE cheap, and DO work, but save yourself the headache and get an electronic one. It's a lot easier to adjust the EBC in your cabin than it is to pull over, and crank a knob under your hood. I had a MBC on my car, but I threw it out and bought a Profec B for convenience.

[heavyD]

Originally posted by JAYMEZ



So true , what a pain in the fuckin ass!

Why are you selling? Didn't you finally get the Supra running?

[DonJuan]

So lets say just for future reference, what the PSI limit I should stay away from? The upper limit of the fuel management I mean.

Cuz the reason I don't like boost controllers is the temptation for one or 2 more PSI, and then KABOOM! you have a new project.

So lets say on a really hot, dry summer day in Calgary, what would probably be safe? 18ish?

LOL, you guys have NO IDEA how bad I DONT want this to turn into a project.

[DC2]

sure you dont.... thats what i said but look how it turned out for me!!

since we are on the topic.. buy my boost controller/gauge!

[SR240SX]

Originally posted by DonJuan
So lets say just for future reference, what the PSI limit I should stay away from? The upper limit of the fuel management I mean.

Cuz the reason I don't like boost controllers is the temptation for one or 2 more PSI, and then KABOOM! you have a new project.

So lets say on a really hot, dry summer day in Calgary, what would probably be safe? 18ish?

LOL, you guys have NO IDEA how bad I DONT want this to turn into a project.

Haha thats what happend to me..turned the boost on my car up only 3psi..(was running 7 went up to 10) and boom =(..Now even with my big turbo i only run 10psi..which isnt much at all but i know it wont blow anything up with my new setup.

[DonJuan]

Originally posted by DC2
sure you dont.... thats what i said but look how it turned out for me!!

since we are on the topic.. buy my boost controller/gauge!

LOL Kev, No guages! guages imply project car. then again, Profec B's have built in guages, hmmm I'll have to hide it somewhere in the car... under the seat or sumthin.

And yeah, for some reason my S14 when I dropped the stock SR in it was boosting as 12-13 PSI. I figured it was just the FMIC setup and then after a 6 weeks Kaboom! well not kaboom just a broken/melted ring but still. Another huge wad of cash later, there is no way that it's gonna break again! And now my tranny doesn't like all the power and is trying to die.

[JAYMEZ]

Originally posted by heavyD


Why are you selling? Didn't you finally get the Supra running?


I want to go down South and buy a boat :thumbsup:

[Annoyingrob]

Originally posted by DonJuan
So lets say just for future reference, what the PSI limit I should stay away from? The upper limit of the fuel management I mean.
The ECU won't let you past about 14psi. It has a fuel cut built in.
If you have that solved, don't go past 17psi. At that pressure, you're reaching the upper limit of the MAP sensor. It won't be able to read more boost.

With that being said, you're going to be making the most power around 14psi on the stock twins. Any more, and you're just blowing hot air.

So, simply put.... 14.

[DonJuan]

Kewl, so 14 PSI with a Profec B. And it should haul more ass than before. Wait, that means it'll be faster than my S14... hmm

For sale: 1992 Toyota Aristo V

LOL just kidding!

[CelicaST-162]

Kevin, the JDM 2JZ-GTE's especially the Aristo tend to have the valve seals dry up on them. It's probably not your turbo's that are at fault. Our cars as well as other JDM cars don't get driven a lot hence our low mileage which reeks havoc on the seals. With that said, I would not condemn the turbos just yet. For example, my car is a little worse than yours, it smokes every morning when you start the thing.
Weather it's my car or your car, you park it oil trickles past the valve seals as it hardens up and cools down, when you start it up it burns it off and the heat makes the seal more pliable thus sealing it better until you shut it off for a while.

[DonJuan]

^Hmm I had heard of that happening as well, I though it was the turbo seals hardening up or something not the valve seals. How do we fix that without tearing into the head? and without using that "RESTORE" garbage.

[CelicaST-162]

Originally posted by DonJuan
^Hmm I had heard of that happening as well, I though it was the turbo seals hardening up or something not the valve seals. How do we fix that without tearing into the head? and without using that "RESTORE" garbage.

The valve seals are usually the ones that harden up. No fluid additive will do, the only way is to replace them. It's always best to have the head off the car when doing this, it would suck to drop a valve inside the engine by accident and if I remember correctly the valves may have to be removed to replace them. I might be doing the valve seals myself this winter, the easy way is to yank out the engine.

[DonJuan]

hmm, how bad is it if I leave em alone, and just make sure my oil is topped up. LOL! I really dont wanna pull this engine if I dont have to. Maybe if I run some BG seal conditioner in it? and run Mobil 15w40 in the summer?

[whatthe]

Turbo seals should smoke more regularly. Valve stem seals is fairly common as Supras/Aristos get older.

There's a Supra FAQ on changing the valve stem seals with the head on. Do a search and you should find it.

Put a rope into the cylinder, bring the piston up... this keeps the valves in place. Use some special tools from Snap-on, and hope it works out. I find doing it with the motor together a little frustrating, but other guys might have better experience. I much prefer to take it apart.

There was at least one of the older Lambos and some race engines that didn't even come with valve stem seals. Mechanically the engine is likely still sound. I've heard stories of guys running Supras for 7+ years with the problem.

[whatthe]

I should add that you will hit fuel cut at 15psi.

If you remove cats and put a free flowing intake and exhaust boost will likely go over 15psi without a boost controller (that EBC wouldn't be helpful). Hence why a lot of JDM guys put on restrictor rings. I would highly recommend removing/upgrading the two cats as they create a lot of backpressure on increased boost and tend to keep heat that much closer to your turbos/valves etc. and shorten life.

I just used dual 'economy' mufflers as they were cheaper than a restrictor ring and a good muffler for this year. Now, I can at least turn boost down to a reasonable level when it snows/rains/etc.

15-16psi should be fine on stock fuel system in Calgary. Over that, you'll want a better intercooler and/or good gas for a track day.

[CelicaST-162]

Originally posted by DonJuan
hmm, how bad is it if I leave em alone, and just make sure my oil is topped up. LOL! I really dont wanna pull this engine if I dont have to. Maybe if I run some BG seal conditioner in it? and run Mobil 15w40 in the summer?

I purchased my Aristo at 90K and now it has 112K on it right now, it still smokes the same since the day I bought it...So for now, I am not too worried about it. Since it's your winter car (tsk tsk Kevin) You might find that it **might** smoke a little more or more often due to the cold contracting the seal a little bit more. You can try the BG addtive, as long as it's for engine oil. ( BTW BG is good shit, we use it too!). I would not use 15w40, wayyy to thick...10W30 or 10W40 is fine. You might want to switch to 5w30 or 5W20 for winter....makes life a little easier for the turbos during the -30 startups!