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lianli
01-15-2008, 03:55 PM
So i bought some of this Turtle Wax on impulse, it came with an applicator pad and I think its a paste. It was only 3 bucks. After I bought the wax I started thinking, 3 bucks is pretty damn cheap. Should I even bother usiing this wax on my car? I've never waxed my car before so I want to wax it soon.

Ferio_vti
01-15-2008, 04:07 PM
Too cold outside to bother waxing right now. Wait til it's at least 10 degrees outside.

sneek
01-15-2008, 04:40 PM
Well if your car has no wax on it something is better than nothing. As Ferio said it is not the idea temperature to apply wax, but it will give you some protection.

$3 isn't bad. If it sucks then use it on your wheels to slow down the build up of brake dust.

lianli
01-15-2008, 04:42 PM
Originally posted by Ferio_vti
Too cold outside to bother waxing right now. Wait til it's at least 10 degrees outside.

Hmmm okay. What if I did the cleaning/waxing in a heated garage? Or will the cold temperature outside wear the wax quicker?
I didn't want to start a new thread so , new question.
I just bought the mothers' clay bar kit and it comes with a bottle of "carnauba cleaner wax". What's the difference between their "cleaner" wax and just their wax? Is it like a prewax application?
Is it bad to mix companies? Like, I wash the car, use mothers' clay bar then the "cleaner wax" then the turtle wax I have also?

Yah, obiously I'm a noob. :)

Graham_A_M
01-15-2008, 10:58 PM
^ The heated garage will work. Its so that the moisture in the wax evaporates rather then freezes. To wax your car on a hot sunny day (in the sun I mean) is equally as harsh.... or shall I say "stupid".

"Cleaner" waxes actually remove the contaminents or older waxes (from previous applications) on your finish while your applying the new stuff, regular waxes just add to whatevers there, being contaminents or previous wax.

BTW, "cold temperature" doesnt "wear" wax, its friction that does that; as in LOTS of car washes. I wash my car weekly in the summer so I wax it every second or third wash (mind you my summer car is black) The more often you wax your car, or the more you drive it; the more you'll need to wax it. The temp at the wax application only matter in terms of how well the wax adheres INTO the paint of the car. (as on a microscopic level... the paint on your car looks like carpet... with an almost infinate amount of microscopic pores in it. The wax needs to dry naturally, in the manner of filling these cracks with the chemicals within the wax. If the wax drys in the sunlight, obviously it can't do that as it'll dry before its fully adhered to the paint. :thumbsup:

Do not use the clay kit, as it can leave some disasterous 'stains' on your finish of where you'd need to use some *viciously* harsh chemicals to remove them. That clay bar is for this yellowish spray called "fall out" that new cars typically come with... as well as deep routed contaminents. Dont use it sparingly.... only as a last resort to tree sap and such. And use it with TONS of water or you may streak/stain the paint finish... water is absolutely MANDITORY for these clay bars.... trust me on that one. I found out the hard way more then a few times :banghead:

Impreza
01-16-2008, 12:13 AM
Too cold as previous posters have said. I tried polishing my car with Menzerna a few months back, and it was like 5-6C, but it just didn't work. I was just excited to use my new porter cable.. but the polish just wouldn't spread properly. You would prolly experience the same thing with wax

lianli
01-16-2008, 11:17 AM
Originally posted by Graham_A_M
^ The heated garage will work. Its so that the moisture in the wax evaporates rather then freezes. To wax your car on a hot sunny day (in the sun I mean) is equally as harsh.... or shall I say "stupid".

Do not use the clay kit, as it can leave some disasterous 'stains' on your finish of where you'd need to use some *viciously* harsh chemicals to remove them. That clay bar is for this yellowish spray called "fall out" that new cars typically come with... as well as deep routed contaminents. Dont use it sparingly.... only as a last resort to tree sap and such. And use it with TONS of water or you may streak/stain the paint finish... water is absolutely MANDITORY for these clay bars.... trust me on that one. I found out the hard way more then a few times :banghead:

Thanks for the info. I clayed and waxed my car last night so I'm a bit late reading your post. From what I could tell, the bar hasn't left any stains (..yet!). If the bar does stain, from my understanding, the wax will just seal the stain in right? Mmm.... What brand of clay do you recommend? Where can I get it? Also, how many layers of wax do you usually apply at a time? I did two coats.

2.0turbo
01-16-2008, 01:17 PM
I came across this one day.


http://www.wnetwork.com/tv_shows/shows/The_Shopping_Bags/ViewProduct.asp?ID=226

Its a review and test on car waxes. Basically the higher the carnuba wax content, the better protection and longevity. Some don't protect for longer than one car wash.

Graham_A_M
01-16-2008, 08:01 PM
Wax doesn't "seal" anything in, its not a laquer that you have to apply as what you seem to understand it as. It doesn't matter how many layers of wax there are on the stain or anywhere else on the car, all can be removed using the right chemicals. Abiet on certain materials as used on bumpers & mudflaps, they may be bloody hell to try to get out (never accidently get wax on newer black Mercedes textured mud-guards :banghead: :banghead: )

Wax acts like a thin protective layer, but one that definately isn't at all perminant.
Although there is one wax that needs to be applied, and then left for a LONG time (meaning weeks or months), as it'll basically bond with the paint, but its commercially available.... meaning there is one retailer in Calgary that sells that stuff, but even that stuff is removable.
If you haven't left any streaks, dont worry. Even if you do, a medium strength to strong cleaner will remove them on a terry-cloth etc.

I remember some costly mistakes with using this "Car brite" clay bar. As careful as you had to be with it, you could remove anything, it was just awesome.

2skys1imit3
01-29-2008, 10:29 AM
waxing is better than not waxing :)

next time i'd recommend going w/a three step brand or more from one of a different number of companies

Jed Bouscal
02-01-2008, 01:04 PM
I'd recommend a good acryllic/polymer paint sealant over a wax anyday, but especially in the winter if protection's your main concern.

I'll mention here that washing your car carefully will preserve your finish far better than waxing regularily and washing & drying without quality microfiber products.


Originally posted by Graham_A_M
Abiet on certain materials as used on bumpers & mudflaps, they may be bloody hell to try to get out (never accidently get wax on newer black Mercedes textured mud-guards :banghead: :banghead: )

Another reason why sealants are great - they generally stain trim less, or not at all. Try using a citrus detergent to get the wax off of your trim.



I remember some costly mistakes with using this "Car brite" clay bar. As careful as you had to be with it, you could remove anything, it was just awesome.

I've never heard of a claybar permenantly staining paint. They must always be used with a lubricant (quick detail spray, or water with a drop of carwash soap). I'd stay away from the terry-cloth to avoid marring! Microfiber is the way to go!

Tik-Tok
02-01-2008, 01:11 PM
Originally posted by Jed Bouscal
I'd recommend a good acryllic/polymer paint sealant over a wax anyday, but especially in the winter if protection's your main concern.


I was gonna mention that too. I'm using RejeX, and loving it. Not as glossy as wax, but so far it's surviving longer than the Mcquire's (as a test, I did half my hood with Rejex, and half with McQuire's)

Graham_A_M
02-01-2008, 09:01 PM
Originally posted by Jed Bouscal

I've never heard of a claybar permenantly staining paint. They must always be used with a lubricant (quick detail spray, or water with a drop of carwash soap). I'd stay away from the terry-cloth to avoid marring! Microfiber is the way to go!

your right it doesn't but most people use these wicked chemicals to remove the stains, and its that that scars the paint.
I should have said microfiber, your right. :dunno: But I figured this guy wouldn't know what that is, so I thought a terry-cloth would be the next best thing.

lianli
02-27-2008, 12:12 PM
Originally posted by Graham_A_M


your right it doesn't but most people use these wicked chemicals to remove the stains, and its that that scars the paint.
I should have said microfiber, your right. :dunno: But I figured this guy wouldn't know what that is, so I thought a terry-cloth would be the next best thing.

Haha excuse my foreign, I know what a microfiber cloth is (i have a bunch) but I don't know what a terry cloth is... :burnout:

Does anyone apply wax/sealant to thier windows? I'm ordering a whole bunch of detailing supplies soon and I was thinking up ways to use up my turtle wax. So I was thinking, why not use it on my windows and head/tail lights. I won't be applying to my front wind shield, just my sides and rear. Anyone think it'll make my windows more glossy?