Do you NEED a block heater?

[Neil4Speed]

I did a search.

So, Its getting pretty fucking cold outside. I was looking through the Canadian Tire flyer today, and came across block heaters, and offhand mentioned that my car didn't have one. He was totally blown away and told me to get one right away.

Now, my car was originally from BC, so didn't have one when new. I park in an attatched garage overnight, where really it doesn't get much colder than -10 to -15, even on the coldest night. I drive to school, where I don't have the option of a plug-in. Lastly, my car is 14 years old - and gone this long without one, why do I need one now? I use a winter synthetic in the Winter, which provides good protection (Supposedly), for when the temperatures get really cold.

[962 kid]

Don't need one as long as your charging and starting systems are in good condition

[Weapon_R]

If your car is reliable, you don't need one. The guys at Canadian tire are idiots.

I've never used one before, probably never will.

[LUCKYSTRIKE]

In serious weather conditions like tonight, if your running synthetic oil I don't see any harm trying to start up your car but I wouldn't try and start up my car tomorrow morning without a blocker heater and running dinosaur oil (just becuase it turns to wax).

[962 kid]

Originally posted by LUCKYSTRIKE
In serious weather conditions like tonight, if your running synthetic oil I don't see any harm trying to start up your car but I wouldn't try and start up my car tomorrow morning without a blocker heater and running dinosaur oil (just becuase it turns to wax).

Care to provide some proof for that last statement?

[LUCKYSTRIKE]

I dont mean to solid wax, but waxy.

http://www.toyotatundraforum.com/techno-world/567-motor-oil-101-a.html

[Redlyne_mr2]

Ive frozen oil before... it was -49 in northern ontario.. seized up my 4age, 20 hours away from my destination.... best time of my life..i even made a thread about it

[Cowtown_Raider]

My previous car (a 93 Mazda 323) snapped a camshaft when I went to start it after work a few years ago...I think it was even a tad colder than now. Didn't have it plugged in :(

[max_boost]

Never used it but I've never owned an older car before :dunno:

[G-ZUS]

My car's got 5w30 in it, sat all day today(dont have a block heater), went and started it in the evening, gave me no problems

[JAYMEZ]

Never had one in any of my cars... I remember starting my FD in minus 30+ ... it started fine.. Blockheater could be great for older cars I supose.

[GTS Jeff]

Originally posted by 962 kid
Don't need one as long as your charging and starting systems are in good condition :werd: A good engine being cranked by a starter operating at full capacity will never have trouble starting.

My old AE86 didn't have a block heater and even on the coldest days it would start after 5-6 cranks. Instead of spending your money on a shitty block heater, get the engine running well. An Optima Redtop is always nice too.

[old&slow]

Originally posted by Redlyne_mr2
Ive frozen oil before... it was -49 in northern ontario.. seized up my 4age, 20 hours away from my destination.... best time of my life..i even made a thread about it

I also lived out there back in the mid 80's.
Had a ford with a 302 freeze up.
When it finally fired, after a lot of effort, it let go with a bang and lots of white smoke. Car ran for years after that. In fact it ran till it was T-boned in a collision!~

[Neil4Speed]

Ok, well, I will give it a pass then for now, I am planning on swapping the motor in May anyways!

The car will be outside for 8 hours tommorow, so I figure I will remote start it at one or two points just to be safe.

[sr20s14zenki]

Originally posted by JAYMEZ
Never had one in any of my cars... I remember starting my FD in minus 30+ ... it started fine.. Blockheater could be great for older cars I supose.


Wow....you actually got your FD to start in that cold? I had a new battery in mine as well as a chamber warmer, and i had to pulse on my fuel cutoff switch to even get it to run at all. it would idle at about 150 rpm for the first minute :D I learned that rotarys dont like winter that day.

[heavyD]

My last four cars haven't had block heaters but I always use synthetic oil. Mind you it rarely gets this cold. I changed the plugs, ignition wires, distributor, etc when I got the car in the fall since it was a California car. This isn't great weather for a deuce though.

[sr20s14zenki]

Its -31, and my car is in the wind right now, they say -47 with the windchill, so, lets say -40, and my car started, altho it realllllly didnt want to, will be plugging in tnite. s14, ka24de, 10w30 dino oil.


brrrrrrrrrrr

[BokCh0y]

The only reason I really plug my car in is so it warms up faster :D

[TurboZombie]

Originally posted by sr20s14zenki
Its -31, and my car is in the wind right now, they say -47 with the windchill, so, lets say -40, and my car started, altho it realllllly didnt want to, will be plugging in tnite. s14, ka24de, 10w30 dino oil.


brrrrrrrrrrr

Windchill only affects the living, not machines.:bigpimp:

[sr20s14zenki]

^^^ would it not lower the ambient temperature around the car to a lower temperature?

[adam c]

^^ so they say...

i find that hard to believe


car starter didn't like the cold that much, had to manually start it :thumbsdow but it started fine

[blueToy]

Originally posted by Neil4Speed
I did a search.

So, Its getting pretty fucking cold outside. I was looking through the Canadian Tire flyer today, and came across block heaters, and offhand mentioned that my car didn't have one. He was totally blown away and told me to get one right away.

Now, my car was originally from BC, so didn't have one when new. I park in an attatched garage overnight, where really it doesn't get much colder than -10 to -15, even on the coldest night. I drive to school, where I don't have the option of a plug-in. Lastly, my car is 14 years old - and gone this long without one, why do I need one now? I use a winter synthetic in the Winter, which provides good protection (Supposedly), for when the temperatures get really cold.



No one really needs a block heater . Chances are most newer vehicles , properly maintaned , will start in this cold weather . BUT , it's physics , pure and simple . Starting up in -30c means all those fine tolerances are even a little tighter now , and upon start up , before the oil has a chance to lubricate them , it's metal against metal , and you can get some serious friction and or scoring happening . It's usually not enough to do immediate serious damage , but over a period of time it can and will lead to premature wear and tear .

So , if you want to keep your ride for a long time without having to do rebuilds and such , it's probably best to take precautions like running synth and plugging them in when it's cold ( personally , anything colder then -17c ) . Or better yet , build a heated garage and get a parking stall with a plug in for work .

[blueToy]

Originally posted by TurboZombie


Windchill only affects the living, not machines.:bigpimp:


I too beg to differ .

I've had very tempermental equipment not start if they were parked facing a certain way . Yet , park them facing another way out of the wind and they'd start .
Not very scientific I know , but a lesson learned along the way . On a site with lots of diesel equipment I put a lot of thinking into setting up a system to have the motors facing away from the wind . Kinda like ass-end to the wind . It really does help , especially on the old iron .

[kevie88]

Windchill has no effect on cold objects like metal because windchill is a measurement of the ability of the air to strip heat out of a warm object. In reality, 100KPH wind in minus 30c is really only minus 30 with much more ability to strip heat away from you, making it "seem" colder than it is.

When you park your warm car in the wind today, it will cool down much faster than it would in the garage, but it will not cool down lower than ambient temp.

[Redlyne_mr2]

Originally posted by blueToy




No one really needs a block heater . Chances are most newer vehicles , properly maintaned , will start in this cold weather . BUT , it's physics , pure and simple . Starting up in -30c means all those fine tolerances are even a little tighter now , and upon start up , before the oil has a chance to lubricate them , it's metal against metal , and you can get some serious friction and or scoring happening . It's usually not enough to do immediate serious damage , but over a period of time it can and will lead to premature wear and tear .

So , if you want to keep your ride for a long time without having to do rebuilds and such , it's probably best to take precautions like running synth and plugging them in when it's cold ( personally , anything colder then -17c ) . Or better yet , build a heated garage and get a parking stall with a plug in for work .

Great post... I've got all my vehicles plugged in other than the Sera because it's not going anywhere in the Winter. My brand new Toyota is plugged in and my 20 year old Toyota is plugged in. A reliable car will start in this weather but if you want your engine to last then plugging it in greatly improves it's longevity.

[sr20s14zenki]

Originally posted by kevie88
Windchill has no effect on cold objects like metal because windchill is a measurement the ability of the air to strip heat out of a warm object. In reality, 100KPH wind in minus 30c is really only minus 30 with much more ability to strip heat away from you, making it "seem" colder than it is.

When you park your warm car in the wind today, it will cool down much faster than it would in the garage, but it will not cool down lower than ambient temp.

Makes sense, thanks for clearing that up :D

[TegLover]

Originally posted by kevie88
Windchill has no effect on cold objects like metal because windchill is a measurement the ability of the air to strip heat out of a warm object. In reality, 100KPH wind in minus 30c is really only minus 30 with much more ability to strip heat away from you, making it "seem" colder than it is.

When you park your warm car in the wind today, it will cool down much faster than it would in the garage, but it will not cool down lower than ambient temp.

and thats is why your electronic thermometer in your car (if you have one) still shows -30 degrees Celsius no matter how fast you are going, instead of what the temperature "feels like" with the wind.

[heavyD]

Originally posted by blueToy

No one really needs a block heater . Chances are most newer vehicles , properly maintaned , will start in this cold weather . BUT , it's physics , pure and simple . Starting up in -30c means all those fine tolerances are even a little tighter now , and upon start up , before the oil has a chance to lubricate them , it's metal against metal , and you can get some serious friction and or scoring happening . It's usually not enough to do immediate serious damage , but over a period of time it can and will lead to premature wear and tear .


I'm not a physics major but at extreme cold tolerances will be at their highest not tighter.

[Iqoair]

Originally posted by heavyD


I'm not a physics major but at extreme cold tolerances will be at their highest not tighter.

Um, no. Heat expands. Cold shrinks. In the automotive world anyways.

[alloroc]

If you use synthetic or have your car parked where it is sheltered or heated you can probably do without the heater.

If you have Dino oil and park on the street. Get a block heater.

Your car may start with no issues but even 5-30 is extremely thick when it gets below -15. Oil that thick takes a few extra seconds to circulate (on some cars as much as 10 to 15). This is when you do the most damage to a modern engine ... at startup.

Treat your baby right ... plug it in.

[heavyD]

Originally posted by Iqoair


Um, no. Heat expands. Cold shrinks. In the automotive world anyways.

Umm yeah. That's my point. Clearances will be at their highest when the engine is cold. The other guy said clearences would be tighter in the cold which is the opposite.

[alloroc]

Originally posted by Iqoair


Um, no. Heat expands. Cold shrinks. In the automotive world anyways.

And usually the outer components get colder than the inner components. Decreasing tolerances.

[heavyD]

Originally posted by alloroc


And usually the outer components get colder than the inner components. Decreasing tolerances.

What are you talking about?

[sr20s14zenki]

he means that while the pistons, rings, etc etc shrink from the cold, the bores will also shrink, and most likely more, causing the tolerances to still be tight.

[LadyLuck]

I havent used one for the last 2 years, my car started fine every morning, except today..it turns over...but just wouldnt start.


anyone recommend a Good but Cheap block heater, and where to get it...i wouldnt have gotten one if I didnt have to call for a ride this morning.

[heavyD]

Originally posted by sr20s14zenki
he means that while the pistons, rings, etc etc shrink from the cold, the bores will also shrink, and most likely more, causing the tolerances to still be tight.

They never shrink past their formed or cast sizes. Tolerances at -30 will be the same as at 0. Only when subject to high temperatures will they expand. Sheesh there's too many shade tree engineers on these boards.

Are you trying to tell me your forged 17" wheels have shrunk to 16.8" in this weather?

[sr20s14zenki]

Originally posted by Princess*Precid
I havent used one for the last 2 years, my car started fine every morning, except today..it turns over...but just wouldnt start.


anyone recommend a Good but Cheap block heater, and where to get it...i wouldnt have gotten one if I didnt have to call for a ride this morning.


You can get a lower rad hose one you can install yourself, or you can get a frost plug one, like most cars have as they come. Are you sure you arent just missing your cord, all block heaters use the same cord, so maybe find your frost plugs, should be on the side of the block, if one of your frost plugs has a thing in the middle with 3 prongs on it, thats your block heater, get a cord. If not, it involves using a slide hammer to pull the old frost plug out, and then installing a block heater plug in its place. The frost plug version works the best, but a lower rad hose heater works pretty well too in my experience



Heavyd: true, forgot, cast.

[kevie88]

Originally posted by heavyD


What are you talking about?

They would initially. As the engine cools back down to ambient the outer components would cool first.. however once at ambient temp you should be back to normal clearances. When you start it again after it sits, the pistons will quickly return to their operating temp, but the cylinder walls being cooled by liquid take a while to 'catch back up' and expand back to their normal size.
Remember also that different materials have different rates of thermal expansion/contraction. In the 2-stroke snowmobile world you see a lot of 'cold seizures' resulting from people not warming machines up before bagging on it. The piston will expand and close up the piston-cylinder clearance down to near nil, and when you apply a load to the motor it'll smear the pistons all over the cylinder.. gets messy and expensive!

er.. I think i'm going off on a tangent here :whocares:

[LadyLuck]

Originally posted by sr20s14zenki



You can get a lower rad hose one you can install yourself, or you can get a frost plug one, like most cars have as they come. Are you sure you arent just missing your cord, all block heaters use the same cord, so maybe find your frost plugs, should be on the side of the block, if one of your frost plugs has a thing in the middle with 3 prongs on it, thats your block heater, get a cord. If not, it involves using a slide hammer to pull the old frost plug out, and then installing a block heater plug in its place. The frost plug version works the best, but a lower rad hose heater works pretty well too in my experience



Heavyd: true, forgot, cast.

its a 1993 mx3, i had it checked out by a mechanic and no it didnt come with one :(

[heavyD]

Originally posted by kevie88


They would initially. As the engine cools back down to ambient the outer components would cool first.. however once at ambient temp you should be back to normal clearances. When you start it again after it sits, the pistons will quickly return to their operating temp, but the cylinder walls being cooled by liquid take a while to 'catch back up' and expand back to their normal size.
Remember also that different materials have different rates of thermal expansion/contraction. In the 2-stroke snowmobile world you see a lot of 'cold seizures' resulting from people not warming machines up before bagging on it. The piston will expand and close up the piston-cylinder clearance down to near nil, and when you apply a load to the motor it'll smear the pistons all over the cylinder.. gets messy and expensive!

er.. I think i'm going off on a tangent here :whocares:

I know what you are talking about but the idea in this thread is that the engine is frigid cold which means that clearances are at their normal.

[kevie88]

Originally posted by heavyD


They never shrink past their formed or cast sizes. Tolerances at -30 will be the same as at 0. Only when subject to high temperatures will they expand. Sheesh there's too many shade tree engineers on these boards.

Are you trying to tell me your forged 17" wheels have shrunk to 16.8" in this weather?

Not true. There is a measurable (albiet extremely slight) change in demensions of an object due to cold. I remember seeing a movie in elementary school talking about how a standard meter stick was only truly a meter at a certain temperature.

I used to have some beat-up rims on an old 240z that would start to loose air pretty rapidly once the temp got down to -30. Would never do it in the heat.. but that first cold day of the year I'd come out in the morning to 2 flats haha. tried changing the air valve and the tires but still had the flats.. swapped to newer rims and was good from then on.

ok now I'm really going off on a tangent.. Back to the original topic!! haha

[heavyD]

Originally posted by kevie88


Not true. There is a measurable (albiet extremely slight) change in demensions of an object due to cold. I remember seeing a movie in elementary school talking about how a standard meter stick was only truly a meter at a certain temprature.

I used to have some beat-up rims on an old 240z that would start to loose air pretty rapidly once the temp got down to -30. Would never do it in the heat.. but that first cold day of the year I'd come out in the morning to 2 flats haha.

That probably had more to do with the condition of your rims and the hardening of the rubber.

[962 kid]

Originally posted by heavyD


That probably had more to do with the condition of your rims and the hardening of the rubber.

Why not just admit defeat instead of nitpicking? Cold engines have tighter tolerances, just ask any f1 team.

[eblend]

wish the lady that was supposed to hand my the keys to my new rental appartment (on my birthday, i was so excited) had a block heater. couldn't start the car so she moved the date to tomorrow! grr....ruin my birthday!!! when i was born it was -50, but this was in Siberia haha

[heavyD]

Originally posted by 962 kid


Why not just admit defeat instead of nitpicking? Cold engines have tighter tolerances, just ask any f1 team.

I'm right so why admit defeat? I'll ask an F1 team when they start racing in subzero temps.:rolleyes:

As for the wheels, the tires properties will change much more than the wheels at low temp.

[962 kid]

Originally posted by heavyD


I'm right so why admit defeat? I'll ask an F1 team when they start racing in subzero temps.:rolleyes:

As for the wheels, the tires properties will change much more than the wheels at low temp.

I agree on the wheel thing, but you're wrong about the engines. F1 engines are seized when cold, they need to have warm coolant and oil pumped in to start, this applies to any engine with fine enough tolerances. Pistons and cylinders have different shapes (pistons are tapered at the top), different expansion rates and different temperatures.

[Dave P]

My 92 legend had a block heater.


I rarley used it as she started like a champ in most conditions.

I could notice a differnce for plugged in vs non plugged in in anything colder then about -20

Just seemed to run smoother.

But then again, it was a legend, so i could been one of 100 things that day haha.

[Neil4Speed]

Originally posted by Dave P

But then again, it was a legend, so i could been one of 100 things that day haha.

I don't understand what you mean.

Yeah my car was outside for about 4 hours today started fine. I mean really its only two more days of this and it will start to warm up.

thanks for the input.

[alloroc]

Originally posted by 962 kid


I agree on the wheel thing, but you're wrong about the engines. F1 engines are seized when cold, they need to have warm coolant and oil pumped in to start, this applies to any engine with fine enough tolerances. Pistons and cylinders have different shapes (pistons are tapered at the top), different expansion rates and different temperatures.

Pistons arn't the problem, they do have greater clearance cold vs hot, same as valves. Main bearings are another matter, ever wonder why failed (spun) main bearings almost always seem to spin on startup?

What this thread is really about is block heaters.
Yes your car will probably start without one.
Yes it will see more wear without one - especially with dino oil.

[zachattack54]

I dont have one so I have excepted that my car will not start this week and im not going to even try to start it.

[Dave P]

Originally posted by Neil4Speed


I don't understand what you mean.




My legend was quirky as hell. Lots of mysterious mechanics haha.

which is why i loved it.

[Neil4Speed]

Originally posted by Dave P



My legend was quirky as hell. Lots of mysterious mechanics haha.

which is why i loved it.

Ha ha, yes definitely, part of the charm I guess!

[arian_ma]

I don't know how credible this statement is, but I read somewhere that starting your car in -30ish weather is equivalent to something like 1500km worth of wear on the engine. Is this true?

[Janice]

My MX3 doesn't have a block heater and she starts just fine. She's seen worse weather - we're from Winnipeg.

[Chris Ng]

Originally posted by blueToy




No one really needs a block heater . Chances are most newer vehicles , properly maintaned , will start in this cold weather . BUT , it's physics , pure and simple . Starting up in -30c means all those fine tolerances are even a little tighter now , and upon start up , before the oil has a chance to lubricate them , it's metal against metal , and you can get some serious friction and or scoring happening . It's usually not enough to do immediate serious damage , but over a period of time it can and will lead to premature wear and tear .

.

the premature wear from a cold start is not due to tighter tolerances in your motor due to extreme cold, but because of the higher viscosity of the cold oil not getting to components as quickly to lubricate..

Metal shrinks in the cold, expands when it is heated .. this is elementary physics ....

When trying to press in metal bearings, people will often stick the bearings into the freezer overnight to make them easier to install.. this is a commonly used trick..

[Spoons]

How would I solve the problem with the dumbass person who owned the car before me cut the plug off on the block heater?

[sr20s14zenki]

go to canadian tire and get a block heater cord, they are all the same, should be brown at the end that goes into the car, with 3 connections.

http://www.autotrucktoys.com/jeep/images/m82203640.jpg

[Mibz]

I just started my car after it sat outside exposed between 9am and 5pm. It cried a little but was fine. I'd worry about your battery and starter than a block heater.

[03ozwhip]

in my 07 Outlander i think i have one, but i cant find it and i dont wanna stand outside freezing my ass off in the dark trying to. will i be ok? its been slower than usual starts but not too bad.

[Eken9]

All personal opinions I guess. Plugging in your car sure saves you more sleep in the morning though lol starts easier, warms up faster etc:dunno:

[GREENBOY]

My 2007 Ford Escape sounded like a light aircraft when it started this afternoon after being parked outside. It's meant to have a block heater but I can't find the fucking thing. I've been under the hood for 20 mins with a torch tonight and still none the wiser. Feel stupid. You don't think to ask when you buy it in the summer though.

[TVG]

Man, my car sure made bad noises starting this morning. Is there any point in actually warming up the car after it's started? I usually just drive right away. It took quite a bit more gas, but that was it.

[autosm]

To all the people advising to make sure the battery and starter are good before using /getting a block heater . You could not be more wrong. Synthetic oil helps but is not a replacement for a block heater.

[962 kid]

Originally posted by autosm
To all the people advising to make sure the battery and starter are good before using /getting a block heater . You could not be more wrong. Synthetic oil helps but is not a replacement for a block heater.

He asked if he needed one, for parking indoors (-15C). Having a proper oil weight, synthetic and a good battery and starter is all he needs. Also, if it makes you feel any better, block heaters won't warm up your oil either, you'd need an oilpan or inline coolant heater.

[gpomp]

Originally posted by arian_ma
I don't know how credible this statement is, but I read somewhere that starting your car in -30ish weather is equivalent to something like 1500km worth of wear on the engine. Is this true? yes

[forced_eg]

Originally posted by 962 kid


Why not just admit defeat instead of nitpicking? Cold engines have tighter tolerances, just ask any f1 team.

your an idiot... and where the hell are we gonna find an f1 team up here

i dont plug in my truck because i have a heated garage, but i would because i run dinosaur oil that'll thicken up and wont flow as freely through the heads and oil passages and bearings... it'll be metal on metal, which causes your motor to fail sooner... plus i dont like idling my truck for too long

[forced_eg]

Originally posted by 962 kid
Also, if it makes you feel any better, block heaters won't warm up your oil either, you'd need an oilpan or inline coolant heater.

listen to yourself...

what is a coolant gallary linked to, coolant, where does coolant surround, the engine block and head... whats in direct contact with that crap?? ENGINE OIL

what a genius

[962 kid]

Originally posted by forced_eg


listen to yourself...

what is a coolant gallary linked to, coolant, where does coolant surround, the engine block and head... whats in direct contact with that crap?? ENGINE OIL

what a genius

Engine oil is stored in the block and head? My bad, I thought it falls into the oilpan after you shut off an engine :rolleyes: I could further explain why cold engines have tight tolerances, but it would be a waste because there are a select few on beyond that have the intelligence to understand (not pointing at you heavyD)

[BerserkerCatSplat]

Originally posted by heavyD

the engine is frigid cold which means that clearances are at their normal.

This would be true if engines were assembled in -35 temperatures, but they're not. That's because an engine and it's components are made up of many various metals and alloys, which all have different rates & percentages of contraction. At any place in the engine where dissimilar metals meet, clearances will either widen or contract in the cold, depending on how the materials are situated in relation to one another. (ie a low-contaction metal surrounded by a high-contraction metal will cause the clearances to shrink, while the reverse causes the clearances to increase.)

[forced_eg]

Originally posted by 962 kid


Engine oil is stored in the block and head? My bad, I thought it falls into the oilpan after you shut off an engine :rolleyes: I could further explain why cold engines have tight tolerances, but it would be a waste because there are a select few on beyond that have the intelligence to understand (not pointing at you heavyD)

no id really like to hear this...

i wanna know what kind of bullshit your high school auto teacher if feeding you

[Redlyne_mr2]

Originally posted by forced_eg


no id really like to hear this...

i wanna know what kind of bullshit your high school auto teacher if feeding you

umm his dad builds race cars and fixes Countachs for a living.

[autosm]

Originally posted by 962 kid


He asked if he needed one, for parking indoors (-15C). Having a proper oil weight, synthetic and a good battery and starter is all he needs. Also, if it makes you feel any better, block heaters won't warm up your oil either, you'd need an oilpan or inline coolant heater.


A block heater will warm up the engine oil. Not a lot but the enough to make a difference.

Its a lot colder than -15 in my attached insulated non heated garage.

-37 tonight,that's camshaft snapping cold.

[eblend]

Originally posted by eblend
wish the lady that was supposed to hand my the keys to my new rental appartment (on my birthday, i was so excited) had a block heater. couldn't start the car so she moved the date to tomorrow! grr....ruin my birthday!!! when i was born it was -50, but this was in Siberia haha

wow i can't believe i am quoting myself. went to start the car today to go shopping for some stuff with my girlfriend since its my day off (was supposed to get keys) and sure enough, my car didn't start! haha, cranked, started for split second and shut off. tried again and that was it. shitty luck haha, glad i found someone to boost me

[Supa Dexta]

this thread: :cry:

"oh yeah my car starts no problem"... but, theres no question any sort of heater is going to be easier on it.. I'd just leave it run all night though if I were you guy's...

[BokCh0y]

So i went out at about 445 yesterday to start the car and warm it before i went home. Car started fine. I walk inside and mention to a co-worker he should fire up his car and let it warm up....his response - "oh there's no need, in weather like this you'd have to keep the rpm's very high in order for it to make adifference...." i just gave him the "you're a fucking idiot" look....and walked off.

:guns: :guns: :guns: to idiots.

[D. Dub]

Originally posted by Chris Ng


the premature wear from a cold start is not due to tighter tolerances in your motor due to extreme cold, but because of the higher viscosity of the cold oil not getting to components as quickly to lubricate..

..

Give that man a cigar.

Why is everyone arguing about silly tolerances when this is the crux of the issue.

Block heaters prevent initial engine wear, plain and simple, because they allow the oil to pump through the engine faster.

[Spoons]

If I was to look for a block heater on my car where would it be? Can I see it in plain sight? Would I need to jack it up to see it? I am just trying to figure out if the damn thing even has one... it is a 1991 Honda Accord EX-R if that helps.

I can't find a plug in ANYWHERE but I am hoping there is block heater but just need a plug in!

[GQBalla]

maybe there is no block heater ^^


yesterday i left my car at brent wooh for about 8 hours - no shelter no pluggin in but i use synthetic

car started first crank no problem BUT it sounded pretty bad - wasn't normal sounding at all - after about 3 minutes it went back to normal.

[btown]

the skyrine started up with a boost...hadn't started it in a week...no block heater just needed a little extra to get her goin...no weird noises tho... lol :dunno:

[Spoons]

Yeah I have to boost it and it cranks, but won't start. The oil in it is pretty bad, need a changing....

Think this magnetized oil pan heater thing will work?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441888979&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672419&bmUID=1201643102989&deptid=null&ctgrid=null&subctgrid=null

I just really need this car for tomorrow...

[Neil4Speed]

Originally posted by BokCh0y
So i went out at about 445 yesterday to start the car and warm it before i went home. Car started fine. I walk inside and mention to a co-worker he should fire up his car and let it warm up....his response - "oh there's no need, in weather like this you'd have to keep the rpm's very high in order for it to make adifference...." i just gave him the "you're a fucking idiot" look....and walked off.

:guns: :guns: :guns: to idiots.

Well, heres the thing. Warming up your car is a good thing in cold weather, however, anything over 30 seconds is unnecessary and a waste of gas, especially these guys who let it warm up for ten minutes.

Modern ECU's are able to accommodate for the low temperature and adjust appropriately. The best way to warm up your car is to drive it gently until it reaches operating temperature.

I warm up my car for about 2-3 minutes in this weather just because its pretty fucking cold to sit in otherwise.

[5hift]

^^

In 30 seconds, the car may be drivable. But if parked outside overnight, you wont be able to see shit because all the windows will not have had time to defrost because the vents will still be blowing cold.

[Cowtown_Raider]

Agreed ^^

I find that even if the windshield is somewhat clear in the morning, as soon as my daughter and I get in the car, the moisture from breathing quickly condenses into a thin icy layer on the windshield. Let the car warm up for about 5 minutes and it's good to go.

[stardotstar]

Started my car once in this weather when parked outside did not sound pretty! I also had to do a throttle body bypass for my s/c or else there's a chance that coolant would leak into the manifold. Oh well, there's no harm in plugging your car in. I'd be worried about the battery crapping out in this weather.

[HondaRice]

Originally posted by Neil4Speed


Well, heres the thing. Warming up your car is a good thing in cold weather, however, anything over 30 seconds is unnecessary and a waste of gas, especially these guys who let it warm up for ten minutes.

Modern ECU's are able to accommodate for the low temperature and adjust appropriately. The best way to warm up your car is to drive it gently until it reaches operating temperature.

I warm up my car for about 2-3 minutes in this weather just because its pretty fucking cold to sit in otherwise.


30 seconds? the gear shift hardly even shifts when is its minus 30, its not cheao gear oil.

i will leave it running atleast 10 minutes. even the door jam says avoid accleration or racing when starting cold engine!! TURBO!!

[A790]

Hahaha, bet everyone who opted not to get a block heater sure regrets it now! :banghead:

[Euro_Trash]

Originally posted by HondaRice


i will leave it running atleast 10 minutes. even the door jam says avoid accleration or racing when starting cold engine!! TURBO!!




Originally posted by Neil4Speed


The best way to warm up your car is to drive it gently until it reaches operating temperature.

[Supa Dexta]

It doesn't take much to figure out that weather is hard on shit, when the car creaks and moans, and just sounds hurtin' until it gets warm..

[LilDrunkenSmurf]

Originally posted by Spoons
Yeah I have to boost it and it cranks, but won't start. The oil in it is pretty bad, need a changing....

Think this magnetized oil pan heater thing will work?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441888979&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672419&bmUID=1201643102989&deptid=null&ctgrid=null&subctgrid=null

I just really need this car for tomorrow...

It'll help.

I have an oil line heater I installed last winter, but it doesn't do shit. Luckily the new house we moved into has a heated garage (altho not attached) and I work at market, so I drive around till I find underground parking... The most it sits outside for it 2 hours... 6 on sundays, and it seems to start ok.. 5w30 synth