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View Full Version : ROYAL PURPLE - **gotta check it out**



b18cr
09-11-2008, 09:56 PM
**SORRY IF THIS IS SOME SORT OF RE-POST**

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

discuss..

b18cr
09-11-2008, 10:15 PM
kkk..

i will assure u 110% that this is no virus.. the link looks funny but its not a virus or some bs..

jswankster
09-11-2008, 10:23 PM
thats pretty impressive! im going royal purple next change...

Zero102
09-11-2008, 10:26 PM
Seen it before. And there are other comparisons showing higher wear numbers with royal purple. The problem with them seems to be consistency. I can't find any links right now but I'm sure it's come up on BITOG at least a hundred times.

riced
09-11-2008, 10:27 PM
Interesting, I've been using it ever since the dealer has switched the first oil change.
Good stuff though

Senseiz
09-11-2008, 10:29 PM
EC2snrIAU2w

962 kid
09-11-2008, 10:32 PM
Massive, massive, massive pile of shit. That same "test" can be used to prove that oil is not required for an engine. It's the same trick that snake oil salesmen would use to try and get shops to buy their additives... it is not a proper test for the lubrication required inside an engine. If it were, we would all be using gear oil inside our engines.

heavyD
09-12-2008, 07:18 AM
Royal Purple is dicey oil IMO. Of all the oils out there I've never seen one that has more varied succes & horror stories. These designer oils are overrated anyways which is why I just use plain Moble 1. I don't know anyone that's ever had an engine failure that a fancy oil could have prevented.

Eibbus
09-12-2008, 07:47 AM
Originally posted by heavyD
Royal Purple is dicey oil IMO. Of all the oils out there I've never seen one that has more varied succes & horror stories. These designer oils are overrated anyways which is why I just use plain Moble 1. I don't know anyone that's ever had an engine failure that a fancy oil could have prevented.

You dont use Mitsubishi Oil? Suprising! :D i keed i keed

heavyD
09-12-2008, 08:34 AM
Originally posted by Eibbus


You dont use Mitsubishi Oil? Suprising! :D i keed i keed

Why would I put Mitsubishi oil in a Toyota?

g-m
09-12-2008, 08:40 AM
yea that comment left me scratching my head too

EvolutionI
09-12-2008, 08:53 AM
I use Mitsubishi oil:drama:

just kidding. Royal Purple for me next time.

Eleanor
09-12-2008, 08:58 AM
Originally posted by heavyD
Why would I put Mitsubishi oil in a Toyota?
People use honda fluids in their nissans. I know tons of people using sychromesh in their non-GM cars.

heavyD
09-12-2008, 09:01 AM
Originally posted by Eleanor

People use honda fluids in their nissans. I know tons of people using sychromesh in their non-GM cars.

Synchromesh is made by a variety of companies (BG, Pennzoil, GM) but the GM version is the cheapest that's why.

TorqueDog
09-12-2008, 09:12 AM
Castrol TWS 10w60 for me.

Always thought about running Royal Purple, but considering that PartSource used to want me to buy it by the case, I decided it was easier to just stick to readily available oils.

teggypimp95
09-12-2008, 11:27 AM
Originally posted by heavyD
Royal Purple is dicey oil IMO. Of all the oils out there I've never seen one that has more varied succes & horror stories. These designer oils are overrated anyways which is why I just use plain Moble 1. I don't know anyone that's ever had an engine failure that a fancy oil could have prevented.

yeah i agree. I will be sticking with castrol like i always have. Never had a problem with it. Plus its aproved by VW for their turbo engines. (even says on the bottle).

inline6turbo
09-12-2008, 11:45 AM
I used Royal Purple in the 7 at first, but I found after about 3000kms the oil pressure warning light would come on and stay on while I was driving. So for shits and giggles I put Pennzoil 10-40 mineral oil in on the next change, and have noticed a huge difference, and the light has not returned. I know every engine is different, but I still don't know why one kind of oil to another would affect my oil pressure sensor?

heavyD
09-12-2008, 02:19 PM
Originally posted by inline6turbo
I used Royal Purple in the 7 at first, but I found after about 3000kms the oil pressure warning light would come on and stay on while I was driving. So for shits and giggles I put Pennzoil 10-40 mineral oil in on the next change, and have noticed a huge difference, and the light has not returned. I know every engine is different, but I still don't know why one kind of oil to another would affect my oil pressure sensor?

I've heard of alot of people have blow-by issues with Royal purple. Blow-by will reduce your oil pressure as well as other factors such as viscosity, film thickness, etc.

tsi_neal
09-12-2008, 04:13 PM
FYI thats an oil level light, not pressure, in your 7, oil just needed to be topped up.

Im not gonna bother to look for it but i read a study a while back that tested ALOT of available oils in real world conditions (NYC cab's with rebuilt & bluprinted motors. The shocker (not really) was when the motors were torn down there was no real difference between any of the oils in the test.

I use royal purple race oil in my race car, but i do that because it sees oil temps of 240 degrees F sustained for 30 mins at a time. That said id use any high grade synthetic with a low ash point... In my street car whatever brand name 5-20 is on sale.

old&slow
09-12-2008, 05:12 PM
I was under the impression that moving engine parts don't ever make contact. Therefore oil breakdown becomes more important than whether or not it has a wear resistance.
I'm sticking with Amsoil!

SNAATCH
09-12-2008, 05:35 PM
Originally posted by old&slow
I was under the impression that moving engine parts don't ever make contact. Therefore oil breakdown becomes more important than whether or not it has a wear resistance.
I'm sticking with Amsoil!

You don't think the piston rings make contact with the cylinder sleeves? Or the bearings with the rods? Tons of the moving parts make contact.

Proboscis
09-13-2008, 12:13 AM
Where did you get that shit JDK?

g-m
09-13-2008, 01:26 PM
Originally posted by SNAATCH


You don't think the piston rings make contact with the cylinder sleeves? Or the bearings with the rods? Tons of the moving parts make contact. they shouldn't I think thats the whole point of hydrodynamic lubrication

They DO but its not supposed to happen. Thats what those oil squirters are for and oil channels on the pisons. They're to hold oil so theres no contact. Pistons are BIGGER than the cylinder bore so without oil they really don't slide

tsi_neal
09-13-2008, 02:38 PM
Originally posted by g-m
they shouldn't I think thats the whole point of hydrodynamic lubrication

They DO but its not supposed to happen. Thats what those oil squirters are for and oil channels on the pisons. They're to hold oil so theres no contact. Pistons are BIGGER than the cylinder bore so without oil they really don't slide

What??? you dont make a lick of sense. pistons are most definatly smaller than the bore. The rings have some spring in them and are designed to contact the bore. Your top ring should see no oil as the oil control rings are inbetween the top and bottom rings and the bottom ring does see oil, which does help lubricate everything. the idea behind oil squirters is more for cooling than lubrication...

b18cr
09-14-2008, 12:15 PM
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a6/4-Stroke-Engine.gif

the cams open and close the exhaust and intake valves.

YamahaV8
09-14-2008, 12:58 PM
Originally posted by g-m
they shouldn't I think thats the whole point of hydrodynamic lubrication

They DO but its not supposed to happen. Thats what those oil squirters are for and oil channels on the pisons. They're to hold oil so theres no contact. Pistons are BIGGER than the cylinder bore so without oil they really don't slide

Pistons are not bigger than the bore. The piston rings do physically slide on the bore as they are designed to do so. Crank and rod bearings are not supposed to make contact once oil pressure is present but they can and that is why bearings are soft and crank and rods are hard (natural metal to metal lubrication). Oil jets (squiters) are there mostly to help in cooling the piston as they hit the base of the piston and not the bore. Oil flying off the crank and rods are what lubricate the cylinder bore as it has done since the invention of the internal combustion engine and that oil is there to lubricate the piston skirt mostly. There will be a little bit of oil that makes it to the compression rings for lubrication but nothing significant. The oil ring's job is to scrape oil from the bore to keep excess oil from the compression rings and combustion chamber and to channel some oil to the piston pin.

tabouli
09-14-2008, 04:45 PM
So how much more evidence do we need that Motul is over-priced bullshit?

Funny how some people are so proud to pay for less of a product.

inline6turbo
09-14-2008, 06:51 PM
Originally posted by tsi_neal
FYI thats an oil level light, not pressure, in your 7, oil just needed to be topped up.



The first thing I did was check my level. :thumbsup:
And the light first started coming on after I had been driving for a considerable length of time at high speeds, ie: went down to lethbridge, once I hit Claresholm it came on, and would go away if i let off the trottle for a couple mins. Then a week or so later it would just stay on constantly. Rx7 specialties said that on JDM rx-7s it's either a pressure light or a temperature light, and since switching from Royal Purple, it hasn't returned.

ShiDave
09-15-2008, 09:03 AM
That test doesn't prove a thing about how an oil will perform in an engine. Where is the extreme heat and cold? What happens when gas and water get into the oil? How does it protect with acids and combustion by-products in the oil?
What a waste of time. I hope people don't actually buy into bullshit like this.

tsi_neal
09-15-2008, 11:34 AM
Originally posted by inline6turbo


The first thing I did was check my level. :thumbsup:
And the light first started coming on after I had been driving for a considerable length of time at high speeds, ie: went down to lethbridge, once I hit Claresholm it came on, and would go away if i let off the trottle for a couple mins. Then a week or so later it would just stay on constantly. Rx7 specialties said that on JDM rx-7s it's either a pressure light or a temperature light, and since switching from Royal Purple, it hasn't returned.

Would it come on as soon as you started the car or only after it warmed up? Sounds kinda like a temp light to me, i would have figured that light to be the same function in the JDM cars...

inline6turbo
09-15-2008, 02:19 PM
Originally posted by tsi_neal


Would it come on as soon as you started the car or only after it warmed up? Sounds kinda like a temp light to me, i would have figured that light to be the same function in the JDM cars...

Initially it only came on after hard driving, suggesting temperature, but later on it would come on right at start up and stay on all the time, suggesting pressure or level, but I checked my level multiple times :dunno:

b18cr
09-15-2008, 09:16 PM
Originally posted by ShiDave
That test doesn't prove a thing about how an oil will perform in an engine. Where is the extreme heat and cold? What happens when gas and water get into the oil? How does it protect with acids and combustion by-products in the oil?
What a waste of time. I hope people don't actually buy into bullshit like this.

wtf are you talking about no0b?

this test shows you how good a synthetic oil is at lubricating.

the air/fuel comes into the intake chamber.
the sides of the engine block contain the water/coolant

what kinds of acids,water,gas get into the oil?

962 kid
09-15-2008, 10:46 PM
Originally posted by b18cr


wtf are you talking about no0b?

this test shows you how good a synthetic oil is at lubricating.

the air/fuel comes into the intake chamber.
the sides of the engine block contain the water/coolant

what kinds of acids,water,gas get into the oil?

wtf are you talking about no0b :rolleyes:? The felix lubricity tester is completely useless for testing motor oils - it is usually used for grease and gear oil testing. Almost every motor oil you can buy today, synthetic or not, will lubricate the cylinder walls pretty much the same. The reason you pay the big bucks for synthetic is superior detergent action, the ability to cover wider temp ranges with a single formula, breakdown resistance at high temps and lots of other reasons.

As for the second retarded part of your post, oil can break down into acid, so that's where that comes from. Water and gas can get in on older engines past the rings.

So please, next time sit down, stfu, and think before you post.

ShiDave
09-16-2008, 06:45 AM
Originally posted by b18cr


wtf are you talking about no0b?

this test shows you how good a synthetic oil is at lubricating.

the air/fuel comes into the intake chamber.
the sides of the engine block contain the water/coolant

what kinds of acids,water,gas get into the oil?

:rofl:

I needed a laugh this morning.

ENJOY YOUR ROYAL PURPLE BRO!!!!

Sorath
09-16-2008, 07:55 AM
i use lubro moly or ams oil

89s1
09-16-2008, 08:25 AM
Originally posted by b18cr


wtf are you talking about no0b?

this test shows you how good a synthetic oil is at lubricating.

the air/fuel comes into the intake chamber.
the sides of the engine block contain the water/coolant

what kinds of acids,water,gas get into the oil?

Just b/c his user ID number is higher than yours doesnt mean his IQ is not.

Pwned. :guns:

KRZY403
09-16-2008, 01:55 PM
from what i've heard, RP isn't any more special than much of the synthetics out there, but i've read pretty good things about pennzoil platinum and castrol syntec. anyone have anything to say about those two?

Eleanor
09-16-2008, 01:58 PM
Originally posted by g-m
Pistons are BIGGER than the cylinder bore so without oil they really don't slide
Sigged :rofl:

ga16i
09-16-2008, 04:47 PM
Originally posted by g-m
Pistons are BIGGER than the cylinder bore so without oil they really don't slide

Wow... just plain wow... some body obviously didn't pass the insert block into hole test.

YamahaV8
09-16-2008, 05:30 PM
Originally posted by b18cr


wtf are you talking about no0b?

this test shows you how good a synthetic oil is at lubricating.

the air/fuel comes into the intake chamber.
the sides of the engine block contain the water/coolant

what kinds of acids,water,gas get into the oil?

Your post just dropped my IQ 10 points. Do some research noob.

g-m
09-26-2008, 09:56 AM
Originally posted by ga16i


Wow... just plain wow... some body obviously didn't pass the insert block into hole test. hey thats what they told us in machine component design? I'm just repeating what I distinctly remember hearing in lecture
I guess the prof was wrong?

g-m
09-26-2008, 10:14 AM
http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/761857/hmmmm-your-questions-concern-me.html

apparently he was wrong
Thats what they told us though, he said almost word for word that the pistons were very slightly larger diameter than the cylinder bore and therefore required oil to move at all. Which apparently is wrong.

speedracer
09-26-2008, 11:04 AM
Seems like a lot of marketing brain wash.. I mean Duralube does the same thing why not use that? :nut:

Eleanor
09-26-2008, 11:08 AM
Originally posted by g-m
Thats what they told us though, he said almost word for word that the pistons were very slightly larger diameter than the cylinder bore and therefore required oil to move at all. Which apparently is wrong.
You mean stuff posted on the internet isn't always true? :eek:

g-m
09-26-2008, 12:07 PM
no I distinctly remember sitting in Park's lecture and he said that. And I remember it because I was thinking wtf how do you get it in there in the first place. But I didn't care enough to research it so I just believed him.


my bad, manufacturing products and processes not machine component design. That guy couldn't speak english anyway

Eleanor
09-26-2008, 03:29 PM
So you assumed everything Park said is true too?!?!?! :rofl: