View Full Version : FS: 1991 H22 Accord

09-20-2008, 03:37 PM
Ok. It's hard for me to part with this car.

Before you read on, you should know that this car is in need of a complete overhaul. It does not currently run. It has been parked for 3 years. To pick up this car, you will need to tow it.

The chassis is a 1991, two door Honda Accord EXR in dark blue. The body needs significant work - peeling paint on the roof and trunk, rust on the rear quarter panels and the hood is a write-off. Getcha some carbon fibre hood and you're golden. Because of the rust on the rear quarter panels, the rear bumper is slightly ajar.

The engine is a 1996 JDM H22 with its 5-speed manual transmission. The CV joints are custom, from Raxles.com in Florida. The clutch and pressure plate are an ACT HDSS unit. They had about 1.5 years' worth of service before the car was parked.

**The engine seized, which is why I parked the car. The timing belt broke in 2004 and I didn't have the money up front to re-build it. Best case scenario, you will need to rebuild the engine to make this car work.

The front brakes are completely custom. Stock Honda Accords have hub-over-rotors, meaning you have to pop off the hub to change the rotor. The stock rotors are 10". The brakes on this car are rotor-over-hub, and come from a 1999 Acura 3.0CL. They are 11" discs, with upgraded brake calipers from a 3.0CL, purchased brand new about a year before the car was parked. I have brand new Brembo drilled 11" rotors in a box that you also get. I have braided stainless Neuspeed brake lines. The brake pads are Hawk HP+. I used DOT5.1 Motul Brake Fluid.

The rear brakes are currently stock, BUT I have a rear disc brake conversion from a 1993 Accord Wagon sitting in a box, sent to me from Honda Acura Parts in Cali, waiting to go in. Also in the box is the proportioning valve from a 1990 Acura Integra RS; this increases the bias towards the rear brakes by 5% or so over the stock proportioning valve, to increase the benefit of having rear discs beyond looks.

The suspension. The car is sitting on Koni Yellow Adjustable shocks and an Eibach Pro-kit springs. They are -1.5" in ride height. I have a set of Prothane urethane suspension bushings in the car, as well as a DC Sports front upper strut brace. There's a Progress rear sway (22mm I think) as well as a Vibrant rear upper strut brace also in the car.

The exhaust was/is a custom 2.5" with a modestly-sized two-tube-tip.

Also included: a Koyo aluminum radiator, new in box. DC Sports ceramic 4-2-1 headers, but the segment of pipe where it's 2-pipes is slightly damaged; thanks AMA tow truck. That may be repairable.

So there you have it. Heavily modified car all said and done, but much of it needs so much more TLC than I have time/energy or money for right now. I'm a full time student and will be for another three years or so. The longer I keep that car sitting there the longer I'll just feel badly that I'm not doing anything with it. The car is so much fun to drive and it was pretty quick too - I went out once to the drag track at Race City and got low 15's on my first try. No Corvette, but the engine has a lot of potential - especially since you need to rebuild it and can therefore go forced induction or NA.

If I had the money, I'd be cruising around town in it right now. I just don't.

Serious inquiries only. $1,000 I feel is quite fair considering that you don't need to order anything *new*, except in the case of where the age of it sitting there has worn something out.

The engine does need to be rebuilt, but consider this; if you were doing up a H22 CB7 on your own and wanted to go turbo, you'd need to rebuild the engine any way in most cases. (The stock ringlands on the H22 aren't very good past 8-10psi, or so I've heard)

You're also getting a brand new set of rotors and an aluminum radiator, new in box. Those two parts alone cost $1,000.

Lots of work, but if you've got the time, it will be lots of fun too.

Thanks for reading.