Basement Room building

[Latino21]

Just a quick question for all the members here, my dad was just wondering if u need a permit to enclose the furnace room, since it's in the open in the basement. From what I know I don't think u need a permit to build a room where it's not liveable, correct me if I'm wrong. He was also wondering in order to get the permit to build a bedroom on the unfinished basement area if a city worker person comes to inspect the whole house in order to build the room. I said that they will most likely send a city worker to see the area where the room is to be built and see if you can open a window to the outside in the zone and check the foundation that's all, I might be wrong. I only ask this because he's sort of paranoid that a city worker will see the mess he has on the backyard and get a fine. Let me know wise people of beyond :thumbsup: Also anybody know the fee to get the permit to build a room and do u need an electrical permit as well? Thank you :banghead:

[TACO.VIDAL]

call 311 for a definite answer.

[dropdat]

If he's building it himself then why is he even getting a permit in the first place? Not a single person that I know, that finished their own basement got one, me included.

[Tik-Tok]

http://www.calgary.ca/portal/server.pt/gateway/PTARGS_0_0_766_241_0_43/http%3B/content.calgary.ca/CCA/City+Living/Residential+Resource/Home+Building+and+Renovations/I+Want+to+Build/Basement+Development/Basement+Development.htm


The inspectors don't care about anything but the thing their inspecting.

[barmanjay]

Unless you are changing the teleposts or any of the main structure, adding/changing electrical or plumbing,.. I wouldn't worry about permits for boxing in a furnace room.

I would make sure you have at least 12-18" of clearance on the backside of the furnace (incase you have to squeeze in behind ). Should make sure you have access to change out the furnace or anything else.

and a minimum 32" door into that room (I always use 36" door - better than code)


If you are adding/changing electrical or plumbing

you will need a permit for each,.. rough cost used to be around $150ish)

Doesn't sound like you are developing your basement so a building permit wont be required.

[Latino21]

Originally posted by barmanjay
Unless you are changing the teleposts or any of the main structure, adding/changing electrical or plumbing,.. I wouldn't worry about permits for boxing in a furnace room.

I would make sure you have at least 12-18" of clearance on the backside of the furnace (incase you have to squeeze in behind ). Should make sure you have access to change out the furnace or anything else.

and a minimum 32" door into that room (I always use 36" door - better than code)


If you are adding/changing electrical or plumbing

you will need a permit for each,.. rough cost used to be around $150ish)

Doesn't sound like you are developing your basement so a building permit wont be required.


So I was right for the furnace room :clap:
Now for adding a liveable room (a dwelling unit) u do need a permit just to be on the safe side cause I've heard that u get a hefty fine when u sell the house and that new dwelling unit wasn't registered, plus I know for sure u need a permit to do the wiring as well (we'll do the wiring just for 2 electrical plugs and light). I know for a fact that the inspectors have to see the wiring before putting up the drywall to see if it's safe and see the window are to see if it's big enough. So I'm guessing my dad will need a permit to build the dwelling unit and the electrical permit. As TACO.VIDAL said I'll call 311 just to see what they say. I'll post what they say just in case. Thanks for the responses :)
:goflames: :goflames: :goflames:

[barmanjay]

simple,.. get a building permit,.. you will need drawing/plans that are as close to scale as possible,.. must include window placement and dimensions.

bring it to the city and pay for a building permit

then get an electrical permit

To make a bedroom there is a minimum size required for a window,.. better ask when you 311

[Latino21]

Well I talked to the Building developtments person and he said exactly what u guys said, the only thing he couldn't tell me was if the inspector comes to check the area for the room before or once u have the frame or body of the room up to check the window and wiring. I told my dad that they check it after the body of the room is up and the window and electrical wiring has been done, am I right? What's gonna happen is that I'll say just forget the whole thing since he's being to paranoid about the inspector. Thanks for the responses once again:thumbsup:

:goflames: :goflames: :goflames:

[msommers]

Originally posted by dropdat
If he's building it himself then why is he even getting a permit in the first place? Not a single person that I know, that finished their own basement got one, me included.

Isn't there an issue with home insurance covering said area if you did renos without a permit? And yes I know there is a line between "hey I put in this receptable" and "hey I just redid my entire basement."

[Latino21]

Has anyone here ever heard of Doncore Concrete Cutting & Coring, are they good at opening window areas, recommended? here's their site
http://www.doncore.com/contactus/

And if anyone has heard of them or used their service do you know the charging price for a window opening??Thanks

[barmanjay]

Originally posted by Latino21
Well I talked to the Building developtments person and he said exactly what u guys said, the only thing he couldn't tell me was if the inspector comes to check the area for the room before or once u have the frame or body of the room up to check the window and wiring. I told my dad that they check it after the body of the room is up and the window and electrical wiring has been done, am I right? What's gonna happen is that I'll say just forget the whole thing since he's being to paranoid about the inspector. Thanks for the responses once again:thumbsup:

:goflames: :goflames: :goflames:


There will be a framing inspector after the framing is done

then electrical rough-in after the basic wiring is done (no need to hook up to fuse panel yet)

no plumbing I'm gathering

once all finished is electrical final inspection

For framing - don't make your studs any more than 24" apart on centers (I always do 16" centers as habit - for the extra $20 in wood, it's worth it),.. rough opening for furnace room (jackstuds and crown), I would make about 34 to 34.5" wide.

These days some contractors are using pressure treated for bottom plate of stud walls.

Edit: my text drawings suck
Edit again: made new pics

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a304/barmanjay/studwall.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a304/barmanjay/studwalldoor.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a304/barmanjay/studwallwindow.jpg


Hope that helps

For outside walls, you should lay down 1" wide 6mil poly under the bottom plate and wrap up the bottom part of the stud wall - incase there ever is seepage from the outside concrete, yout studs won't soak in too much water and no mould or rot.




Originally posted by Latino21
Has anyone here ever heard of Doncore Concrete Cutting & Coring, are they good at opening window areas, recommended? here's their site
http://www.doncore.com/contactus/

And if anyone has heard of them or used their service do you know the charging price for a window opening??Thanks

I've used A1 concrete cutting and coring, pretty quick


Hope that helps

If anyone else see's fault please post up

aside from that you can call me if you like

889-4747
Jay

[Zero102]

For a bedroom you are required by code to use arc-fault breakers, they are rather expensive for a breaker (in the neighborhood of $100/piece) and the inspectors are supposed to be VERY strict on this one as it is a life safety device.


If you do renos without inspections and permits, and anything ever goes wrong, expect your house insurance company to dump you on your ass.

[Latino21]

Ok for fault breakers I have no idea what that's suppose to mean, since I know nothing about breakers but my dad knows all about that since he worked in a electric plant back home. The house was built in may 1999, not sure if that helps, I included links to what the breaker box (fuse box) looks like, maybe u can tell if it's the correct breakers. Thanks for the info barmanjay. My dad allready drywalled the furnace wall so I'm guessing the inpector will most likely want the drywall removed to see the frame?? Once again thanks for all the help and responses :thumbsup:
If it's not the correct breaker does it mean I have to buy just the breaker and one of those plugs that have 2 buttons on the middle (resets the plug) GFCI plugs I think they're called.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/Latino22/DSCF1469.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/Latino22/DSCF1470.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/Latino22/DSCF1472.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/Latino22/yhst-37697109791737_2026_23917860.jpg

Thanks once again ;)

[barmanjay]

Just got to rona and ask for a 15 amp arc fault breaker,.. print off a pic of yoru fuse panel and bring it to them

if the inspector can't see the studs,.. he will make you remove all the drywall

[nonlinear]

yea man, IMO if you're just framing walls by yourself, don't get a permit. the only reason you would want one is to make sure you're not getting screwed by some piece of shit subcontractor

[barmanjay]

^^

What if his dad isn't much better than a POS contractor?

again if it falls apart and injures someone,.. then what?

permit is recommended

[510-Trevor]

One note for the furnace room. By code, the door must open INTO the furnace room.

[sillysod]

you do not need a permit...

my basement I did without one, my dads he got done with out one too.

He even had flooding and insurance covered everything he had pictures of no problem.


Only time you are going to get yourself in trouble is if you do electrical and burn your house down, then insurance will not pay for the basement, but it will still cover the rest of the house.

[Latino21]

Originally posted by barmanjay
^^

What if his dad isn't much better than a POS contractor?

again if it falls apart and injures someone,.. then what?

permit is recommended

Don't worry my dad built the house we lived in El Salvador and he did the plumbing and wiring and they lived there for a full 15 years before my brothers, sister and I were born. So it won't fall :D , the reason I want him to get a permit is because that room will need a window to the outside so there's fresh air going in the room, instead of opening a window facing the inside of the basement. The other reason is because I don't want him to get a fine for building that room and opening that window without a permit, just to be on the safe side. He's qualified to build houses,do plumbing,electrical wiring back at home, but u all know how it is for an immigrant when they move to a diff country, all the certificates u have to be a certified person don't mean squat here. As for the breaker if I do go get the permit should I wait for the inspector to see if we need it or not or should I just purchase it to be on the safe side? Again you guys are really helping me out here, thank you :thumbsup:

[Latino21]

Ok I thought I would post exactly what we're trying to do,here goes. The half side of the basement that's not finished we put up drywall, we enclosed the furnace in a room as shown on the floor plan (yellow) and now we want to build a room on the blue section shown on the plan paper, the reason I want to get a permit is to safely register this room so when my parents sell this house they won't get a fine for building without a permit. The room has to have a window to point outside (red section), now the window frame was done by the builders but when they went to cityhall they denied them opening that other window for fears it would shutt off the pilot on the hot water tank. By building this room and enclosing the furnace they should allow the window to be opened correct??, for the wiring I'll go to rona as sugested and buy the breaker. The window is going in the liveable room not the furnace area, just to clarify that. Can the building developtment people deny the building of the room yes or no? I apologize for all this crap I've written but like I said,I don't want my dad to end up with a fine when he sells the house. Thanks for the info u guys are giving me :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Here's the floor plan and what we're trying to do

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/Latino22/Scan10001.jpg

[frozenrice]

Some of you say that you don't need a permit for basement development. Isn't that kind of like saying you don't need a driver's license to drive? Sure people are capable (well most are) of driving but does that mean they can just hop in a car legally drive?
What happens if you get into a car accident while driving without a driver's? You're S.O.L. if you get caught.

The main thing the city is looking for is that you're not building something in which a person can get trapped in the event of a fire.
I'm not sure on how it works with resale, but it may also prevent potential buyers from being able to buy if there is a finished basement that doesn't have proper permits (barman- correct me if I'm wrong).

That's just my .02

BTW, I went to city hall today and got a permit for my basement. In and out in 40 minutes. If you have good trades they'll have no problem pulling the permits for you too. If they know what they're doing, they'll have no problem doing it on your behalf. If they resist, I'd think twice about using them. Good way to weed out the hacks.

[Zero102]

Originally posted by sillysod
you do not need a permit...

my basement I did without one, my dads he got done with out one too.

Seriously guy, you are wrong. Seriously.

Permits are important for resale value (To some, but it seems some people will live in any pile of shit in this city), but they are also important for a stack of legal reasons. There are a number of consequences for building without a permit
1) your house insurance can drop you (and obviously keep your premiums) if they find out
2) you can get BIG fines for building without a permit if a neighbor turns you in (hmm... why is he bringing all that drywall into his house?!)
3) It is possible to get nailed for it at a future date, the fines are just as big, you have to produce prints and open everything back up

Anybody on here saying you don't need permits for a basement development needs their head checked. Just because you did it and got away with it, is no reason to put somebody else in a compromising position over your lack of judgment.


Good plan on getting the correct breaker type, they are expensive but they are a life safety device. Not somewhere you ever want to skimp. Permits aren't that expensive and it sounds like you are doing more than enough work to warrant one. Post back if you have any more questions about the process and I'm sure somebody who knows what they are talking about will be glad to help.

[barmanjay]

Working in the industry,.. developing a basement without a permit can be a huge negative for resale

especially when you have a realtor that has good construction background (ahem),.. in that light, even if there is a client with a construction background.

no permits becomes a possible material latent defect of the house,.. it is possible that the cost of demo and rebuild will be negotiated off the asking price.

If the question is asked about permits and you lie,.. you can get sued and in the end it would cost to rectify the situation.

Think of permits as a safety - back-door

if it has passed,.. it now is a city inspector issue if something is wrong, not yours.


Don't take this lightly,.. please

A permit must be displayed in your front window during construction.

[Latino21]

Ey barmanjay thanks for all the info but now I have another question for you, since u said u have used the services of Doncore Concrete Cutting, on their add it says Basement windows & doors cut/supplied/installed. I guess it means they supply the window as well as opening the hole for the window. Question is how big was the window u opened and how much did they charge you? Anyone know where u can get a sliding window size 48"x36". I called a company that custom makes windows to the desired size and they told me it would cost $989.57 for that window size, so I'll ask arround here to see if anyone knows where to purchase one for a cheaper price. I found one sliding window on Kijiji for $100 but all the seller put for size was 2.5 x 3.5 (guessing he means 2.5 ft x3.5 ft = 33"Lx42"H or 42"Lx33"H)<<I might be wrong but maybe close to it. If it's close to the size I posted then I guess instead of buying a 48"x36" I will purchase this one and have the hole opened for it. Once again thanks for all the tips and help and I will get a permit to avoid any trouble :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

frozenrice you said u went to get the permit for your basement did u take the following like it says on the brochure online. The main floor layout paper, the basement layout paper, the drawings of the project (room) dimensions of it (length,height,width),wiring plan,window size and position, am I missing anything???Not going to install a heating vent since the unfinished area has 2 air ducts and it gets the area warm really fast when the furnace is turned on. Thanks for the info.

As for the Arc circuit breaker, rona has one made by Siemens which says fits all Siemens load centres which is perfect since the fuse box we have is also manufactured by Siemens and they not expensive, they're only worth $69.98 which is fine with me (safety of the home and family), not sure if my dad will be willing to install it but I'll ask him and see what he says.
http://www.rona.ca/shop/~arc-circuit-breaker-siemens-electric-61714_!arc-fault-breaker_shop

The door to the furnace does open to the inside (we've never put a door opening outwards).
Thanks for all the help guys, I'll see if I can go get the permit next week and hopefully they'll approve it :thumbsup:

[frozenrice]

I marked up a copy of the orignal basement floor plan for the house. The windows were already on the plan and I had them enlarged when we orignally built the house in preperation for future development, so that was a non issue. For the drawing itself, I showed the new walls, door locations (with door sizes), and dimensioned the locations of the new walls. I didn't show a whole lot of electrical since my electrician will pull the permit for me. No elevations were required since I'm not changing any windows or anything.

For windows, go and see if places like Rona or Home Depot can get you a vinyl slider in a size that is close to what you're looking for. You shouldn't have any problems getting one as it's pretty much a standard size and will meet egress. $989 is a ripoff.

[barmanjay]

You better ask them what they supply last time I had concrete cutting and coring was a long while ago.

[Latino21]

Originally posted by barmanjay
Unless you are changing the teleposts or any of the main structure, adding/changing electrical or plumbing,.. I wouldn't worry about permits for boxing in a furnace room.

I would make sure you have at least 12-18&quot; of clearance on the backside of the furnace (incase you have to squeeze in behind ). Should make sure you have access to change out the furnace or anything else.

and a minimum 32&quot; door into that room (I always use 36&quot; door - better than code)


If you are adding/changing electrical or plumbing

you will need a permit for each,.. rough cost used to be around $150ish)

Doesn't sound like you are developing your basement so a building permit wont be required.

The size of the room for the enclosed furnace is as follow
Leght -101.5" Width - 86" Height - 81" we didn't put drywall on the top we just left it open (if u know what I mean), as for the door he had a 30" door, all I could find at rona was a folding door that measured 36"(w) for $75, so we installed the door he had lying arround the basement. The furnace distance from the wall is 44", as for the side of the furnace it's at 26", as for the permit I might not get it since my dad is being paranoid about it thinking he will be fined for enclosing the furnace, I said there's no fine since all he did was enclose the furnace, no pipe or electrical work was done, but he's still paranoid. I'll report back to see if he decides to go for the permit and build the room. Thanks once again for all the help I appreciate it :thumbsup:

[codetrap]

I just had my "pre" final electrical inspection, and I didn't pass due to the fact that I didn't have an isolated plug to the furnace room.

Apparently, I have to run a plug to its own breaker.

As to the people saying don't need an permit? Talk to your insurance company and see what they say. Or find out how many sales fell through when the seller couldn't produce a permit, or proof of valid inspection.

Considering that the proper permits will cost like $200 for everything, and it's sooo easy to do, it's a complete no brainer to pull permits for your work and cover your ass.

[frozenrice]

Went to Rona today. Happened to walk by the stock windows so I went and had a look. An off-the-shelf vinyl slider window 47 1/2" x 35 1/2" (48"x36") was $219 (or was it $290?). Anyways, WAY less than $989. Hope that helps.

BTW, if you're going to close off the furnace room, building code calls for a 2'8" (32") wide door. If you're going to apply for a permit and get an inspection done, you'll need to redo that door.

[Latino21]

Originally posted by codetrap
I just had my &quot;pre&quot; final electrical inspection, and I didn't pass due to the fact that I didn't have an isolated plug to the furnace room.

Apparently, I have to run a plug to its own breaker.

As to the people saying don't need an permit? Talk to your insurance company and see what they say. Or find out how many sales fell through when the seller couldn't produce a permit, or proof of valid inspection.

Considering that the proper permits will cost like $200 for everything, and it's sooo easy to do, it's a complete no brainer to pull permits for your work and cover your ass.

I guess this is what Zero102 meant by when u build a room you have to have an arc fault breaker installed (individual line+breaker for the room) Good luck on the inspection next time u have it done :thumbsup:



Originally posted by frozenrice
Went to Rona today. Happened to walk by the stock windows so I went and had a look. An off-the-shelf vinyl slider window 47 1/2&quot; x 35 1/2&quot; (48&quot;x36&quot;) was $219 (or was it $290?). Anyways, WAY less than $989. Hope that helps.

BTW, if you're going to close off the furnace room, building code calls for a 2'8&quot; (32&quot;) wide door. If you're going to apply for a permit and get an inspection done, you'll need to redo that door.

Thanks frozenrice for taking time on checking out the windows at rona and letting me know I really appreciate that. For the price it might be $219 since on their site they have a 45 1/2x45 1/2 going for $238 I believe, not too sure since rona site is being a b@$*! giving me an error when I click on anything
We are sorry, an error has occurred. To go to the home page, click here. To return to the page you were reading, use the “Back” button of your browser (you may have to refresh the page afterwards).
I'll check it out later or will see if I might be able to stop by rona and have a look, as for the furnace room we're not getting a permit since I was told no permit was needed, if my dad decides to build the room and we get the permit and we get the frame up I'll tell the inspector that the furnace was enclosed about 4yrs ago and I talked to one of those building people on the phone from city hall :rolleyes: and if he wants to inspect it I can take off the drywall, as for the door I allready told them about it and also found a lady selling one new interior door (80"Hx32"L) but not sure if they'll listen to me that he has to change the door. Again thanks for all the info and thanks once again frozenrice for taking the time to check the window prices for me. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[Latino21]

Does anyone know where to get window film(s) in Calgary for cheap. It's to put it up on the living room windows to keep the living room cooler. I've found 2 companys that sell them but no prices were posted. I will try wallmart I guess to see if the sell the frost type tint for home windows (not car), thank you.

[Greek Wizard]

Originally posted by 510-Trevor
One note for the furnace room. By code, the door must open INTO the furnace room.

Are you sure on this?

I know it has to be 34", but I was not aware it has to open into it.

[barmanjay]

Originally posted by Greek Wizard


Are you sure on this?

I know it has to be 34&quot;, but I was not aware it has to open into it.

32" (34" rough opening maybe)

used to be 36" due to sheer size of the beastly furnaces,.. but since furnaces and hotwater tanks are now becoming smaller and more efficient, 32" is now minimuum


Most rooms require their doors to open in, except in the case for closets and small storage rooms

[Heff]

Per the City of Calgary website,

You need homeowners permits for changes to the following:

Electrical
Plumbing
HVAC
Structural Finishing Changes (Including Framing, Drywall, Concrete Changes, support changes, etc.

They also have some pretty specific guidelines for insulation methods and damp-proofing requirements for below grade finished spaces, as well as egress window requirement for bedroom and dwelling units.

[Latino21]

Hey codetrap, when the city inspector went to check your dwelling unit that u built did the inspector look at just that or was he looking arround the house as well, only asking since my pops is being paranoid that the inspector(s) will check the whole house inside and outside, in other words the inspector(s) will be picky and stuff. From all the info the loyal users of beyond have posted are that the inspector(s) will only check the frame of the room once it's up, then the wiring and final the completetition of the room, have to add an individual breaker for the room to pass the electric inspection since u said u failed urs by not doing this. Thanks for the info:thumbsup:

[frozenrice]

I just had the framing inspection done for my basement and the only thing that I didn't pass was my carbon monoxide detector wasn't mechanically fastened. It's just one of those plug in types. I guess with the latest release of the Alberta Building Code there is something in there about carbon monoxide detectors.

[codetrap]

Originally posted by Latino21
Hey codetrap, when the city inspector went to check your dwelling unit that u built did the inspector look at just that or was he looking arround the house as well, only asking since my pops is being paranoid that the inspector(s) will check the whole house inside and outside, in other words the inspector(s) will be picky and stuff. From all the info the loyal users of beyond have posted are that the inspector(s) will only check the frame of the room once it's up, then the wiring and final the completetition of the room, have to add an individual breaker for the room to pass the electric inspection since u said u failed urs by not doing this. Thanks for the info:thumbsup:

They only inspected the stuff that I had on file for construction.

[Latino21]

Originally posted by frozenrice
I just had the framing inspection done for my basement and the only thing that I didn't pass was my carbon monoxide detector wasn't mechanically fastened. It's just one of those plug in types. I guess with the latest release of the Alberta Building Code there is something in there about carbon monoxide detectors.

So I guess I better buy one as well for the basement and also a fire alarm just to put it in the empty area just to be safe.



Originally posted by codetrap


They only inspected the stuff that I had on file for construction.


Thanks for the quick response :thumbsup:

[nusneak]

Originally posted by Latino21
Has anyone here ever heard of Doncore Concrete Cutting &amp; Coring, are they good at opening window areas, recommended? here's their site
http://www.doncore.com/contactus/

And if anyone has heard of them or used their service do you know the charging price for a window opening??Thanks
I've heard of 'em, lol. It's my brothers company, AFAIK 1 window will cost roughly $500 cut, knocked out of place, broken up and removed. Pricing depends on lots of factors; who you are, what you are getting, and what exactly you want done.
I don't do the billing, so I'm not 100% sure on the price.

As far as the cut/supply/install goes, we use contractors if your looking to have everything done.
They will come in, give you a price and prep the area.
Call us when it is ready to cut, after cutting and cleaning up they will complete the job.

You can get people to 'cut your foundation' for cheaper... If it will be done properly, be square, or where you want it will be another thing. There is some examples of damaged foundation on the site, we haven't had time to update it much and YellowPages sucks.

This is definitely one of the things where doing it once costs less then re-doing it or having to fix structure.

[Latino21]

Originally posted by nusneak

I've heard of 'em, lol. It's my brothers company, AFAIK 1 window will cost roughly $500 cut, knocked out of place, broken up and removed. Pricing depends on lots of factors; who you are, what you are getting, and what exactly you want done.
I don't do the billing, so I'm not 100% sure on the price.

As far as the cut/supply/install goes, we use contractors if your looking to have everything done.
They will come in, give you a price and prep the area.
Call us when it is ready to cut, after cutting and cleaning up they will complete the job.

You can get people to 'cut your foundation' for cheaper... If it will be done properly, be square, or where you want it will be another thing. There is some examples of damaged foundation on the site, we haven't had time to update it much and YellowPages sucks.

This is definitely one of the things where doing it once costs less then re-doing it or having to fix structure.

Upon further investigation of the house plans I decided to remove a little square of the drywall to see if the window was made before and I found out that they cut the window hole allready and it's also framed but when the city inspector showed up (this is according to them) they told the builders to close that window hole because there's too many windows in the house allready so what they did was cover the hole from the outside with a plywood and nailed it to the frame of the window, and put insulation on the inside and then put a thin layer of concrete outside ontop of the plywood (I can post a pic if u want), which means I saved $500 :bigpimp: now I just need to see how much it would cost to install a window (or might do it myself).

[nusneak]

Originally posted by Latino21


Upon further investigation of the house plans I decided to remove a little square of the drywall to see if the window was made before and I found out that they cut the window hole allready and it's also framed but when the city inspector showed up (this is according to them) they told the builders to close that window hole because there's too many windows in the house allready so what they did was cover the hole from the outside with a plywood and nailed it to the frame of the window, and put insulation on the inside and then put a thin layer of concrete outside ontop of the plywood (I can post a pic if u want), which means I saved $500 :bigpimp: now I just need to see how much it would cost to install a window (or might do it myself).
Very nice! If your not interested in installing the window, call in our office on Monday and ask for a number of a contractor to do the install.

Just make sure any other windows in the basement rooms you might be having someone living in are big enough to escape out if there is a fire. Enlarging a current window is less then cutting in a new window, but like I mentioned, I'm not 100% on the pricing.

[Latino21]

Originally posted by nusneak

Very nice! If your not interested in installing the window, call in our office on Monday and ask for a number of a contractor to do the install.

Just make sure any other windows in the basement rooms you might be having someone living in are big enough to escape out if there is a fire. Enlarging a current window is less then cutting in a new window, but like I mentioned, I'm not 100% on the pricing.

Yeah they're big windows. On the house plan sheet it says the basement window sizes are 48"x36", but when I measured the window on the other side it was 45 1/2" x 33 1/2", so it's big enough :thumbsup: