Anyone know much about Mitsubishi 3000GT's?

[mrcoolawesome]

A while back a saw one on auto trader for $4500. Has anyone here had/have one? Are they good cars?

[shin0bi]

Seems like a good price for the performance. So I'd ask myself what's wrong with it, and how hard (read expensive) will it be to fix?

I've never owned one so I can't really give you any advice. HOWEVER... I recommend you read some user reviews. Just google it. The internet is good for more than forum trolling and porn, ya know! ;)

I do that with every car I buy, to assess whether or not a vehicle is worth my time.

[mrcoolawesome]

Yeah, I have done a little research I was just wondering if anyone here has owned one and experienced it first hand. I really like the styling of them but if they are prone to problems, they aren't worth it. Thanks though.

[Isaiah]

PM Mitsu3000gt.

[2EFNFAST]

- they still look bad-ass today

- they will bankrupt you to maintain

- they're pretty dog sloooooow if they arn't a vr-4. Even then, a vr-4 (stock) is quite slow, especially by today's standards, because they weigh so much (I think almost 4,000lbs....)

This is what I came to when I was looking at a TT stealth a loooong time ago (and my understanding is the stealth and mitsu. are almost identical)

[badatusrnames]

^^Yeah plus a lot of power gets lost in the AWD drivetrain...

[Deetz]

They are very known for tranny issues with the 6sp

[C4S]

Well .. GTO is nice, but like any 20 yr old car .. flip a coin!


If it is a clean LHD .. then not bad .. if it is a RHD ? :facepalm:

Non turbo is slow .. and heavy .. turbo one is a bit faster .. then then expect BIG BILLS all the time ... they are just not as reliable as a civic or prelude ...

$4,500 or $10,000 or even $450 ... is not the main concern .. how much do you need on it for the next 2 or 3 year is what you should worry about.

[HillBilly]

Well, having owned one for 5 years, I can tell you that my experience was great. I spent $600 on a water pump in 5 years... thats it.

The things you do need to watch out for are....

1. Turbos are very small (TD04-9G) and tend to fail at about 140,000km
a good upgrade is to the TD04-13B's

2. Second gear syncros are a weak spot. Make sure second gear is working 100% before you buy. (this is on a manual 5 or 6)

3. Timing belt should be replaced every 80,000. Make sure its done.

4. Make sure the transfer case recall has been addressed. Leaks are the telltale sign.

5. They do not weigh 4000lbs.... mine tipped the scale at 4750lbs. This is an extremely heavy car, and the handling suffers because of it.

6. The 6G72 engine is quite strong. It can handle stock boost pressure of 15psi. Any more than that, and you will need a fuel upgrade. The stock turbos spool fast, but can't maintain pressure very long. 3000-4000rpm boost will be at 15psi. 4000-7000 boost fluctuates from 9psi to 12psi.

here was mine
http://forums.beyond.ca/st/21548/1995-dodge-stealth-r-t-twin-turbo/

[tentacles]

5. They do not weigh 4000lbs.... mine tipped the scale at 4750lbs.

Says here the TT weighs 3671 lbs

http://www.team3s.com/FAQ-Specs1.htm

Did your strut tower brace and wing add 1,000 lbs?

[HillBilly]

Originally posted by tentacles


Says here the TT weighs 3671 lbs

http://www.team3s.com/FAQ-Specs1.htm

Did your strut tower brace and wing add 1,000 lbs?

that spec is horseshit... I weighed mine on an industrial scale.. twice.

Mine was a 95, and it speced at 3792 dry. (no fluids, no battery)

Mine did have 3 amps, and two 12" JL W6's in a plexiglass box adding a bit of weight

[tentacles]

Huh. Guess I learn something new every day. :nut:

[HillBilly]

Originally posted by tentacles
Huh. Guess I learn something new every day. :nut:

well, maybe you did... dry weight is a useless number.

My Hayabusa was supposed to weigh just under 400lbs from the factory. I weighed it with my riding gear, and a full tank of fuel, and it was closer to 500lbs.

add me on top (190lbs), and you still have 3.96lbs per hp. Fun shit.

[Kloubek]

Originally posted by 2EFNFAST


- they're pretty dog sloooooow if they arn't a vr-4. Even then, a vr-4 (stock) is quite slow, especially by today's standards



You consider 0-60 in 5.5 seconds slow? I don't. You can also upgrade the power on these with fair ease to make them even faster.

OP: I have researched these cars a fair amount. Here's what I found:
Power: Very good, as mentioned above.
Handling: High weight DOES hamper handling, but it's still pretty good.
Syblings: The Dodge Stealth is almost identical, but does not include the auto-aero spoilers (but is slightly lighter.)
AWD: Great to have if you're going to drive in adverse conditions.
Quality: Generally quite good. 91 Trannys are very problematic. 92+ are better, but still can have problems. Turbos wear after time. Engine rebuilds not uncommon, but not chronic.
Non-turbo versions: Not much point. 222 hp (I believe) is nothing spectacular. They still look nice though.

If you can get a TT in good shape for 4500, that's a steal and I'd jump on it right away. A non-tt is nothing special, and are easy to find for 4500.

[HillBilly]

Originally posted by Kloubek


You consider 0-60 in 5.5 seconds slow?

kinda....

once I was done with a few light mods, mine ran a 13.791@106 mph at RCMP. A boost increase helped a lot. Before that, it was low 14's. 60ft times were in the 1.5 - 1.6 area.

[Eleanor]

Originally posted by HillBilly
mine tipped the scale at 4750lbs
:eek:

[mrcoolawesome]

Thanks for the info everyone, and very nice car HillBilly.

[CLiVE]

Originally posted by HillBilly


that spec is horseshit... I weighed mine on an industrial scale.. twice.

Mine was a 95, and it speced at 3792 dry. (no fluids, no battery)

Mine did have 3 amps, and two 12" JL W6's in a plexiglass box adding a bit of weight

Complete BS. Guess your memory fails you.

I will try to find the pics of my old stealth on the scale. I weighed mine and it came in at 3710lbs. I was with another friend in his stealth, and his came in at a similar weight.

So much bad information in this thread.
Here's the thread that talks about when we weighed them.http://forum.canada3si.org/showthread.php?t=1748&highlight=scale

Isn't your username AutoCadguy on Canada3si....so that was your post on Canada3si stating the weight of your car was 4060?

From this thread...

http://forums.beyond.ca/st/64990/fs-stealth/


Originally posted by HillBilly
Now that the 95 is in your garage its time to move the 1st gen eh??

good luck with the sale:thumbsup:



Stealth R/T a.k.a. AutoCAD Guy on www.Canada3si.org

I'm not going to waste my time in this thread. Go to a forum where they know what they're talking about. Check 3si.org, or canada3si.org

Bottomline is that the car is over-engineered by mitsu. 'high-performance' car, and with that in mind will require maintenance, unlike other daily drivers (civics, etc. that I've heard mentioned in this thread). If you are willing to maintain it yourself, then you'll be fine, if you take it to a dealer be prepared to bend over.

[GT.....O?]

last time i checked 0-60 at 5.5 seconds was pretty good for a 17 year old car

2003 Nissan 350z 5.4 14.1
2004 Nissan 350z Roadster 5.7 14.3
2004 Nissan 350Z 5.3 13.77 (M.T. Mar '04)

http://www.albeedigital.com/supercoupe/articles/0-60_Quarter_Mile_Times/N_O_0-60times.html

i wouldnt exactly call a 350z slow either, nor would i a porsche, back then it was right in line with 0-60 times for porsches,

you cant compare a 17 year old sports car to the supercars of today,

i could say that 5.5 is so much slower then a 3.5 second car, but that 3.5 second car has 600 horsepower and probably weight half of the 3000gt

i think for a 17 year old car to be comparable to 3 year old 350z is pretty good in my books,

[mrcoolawesome]

I don't think I will find one '95 and up that isn't RHD or loaded with miles anyway.

[CLiVE]

Personally I would pay more for one that has been maintained, and has lower miles. Rather than picking one up for $4500.

'95 was the last year the stealth was offered in Canada.

If it isn't a VR4, or Stealth RT/TT don't bother.

[mrcoolawesome]

Well I have heard the VR4's are more prone to problems than the SL so I would rather have an SL because I don't care much for power, I just like the looks and styling plus 222hp is plenty enough for me.

[yue]

Originally posted by CLiVE

If you are willing to maintain it yourself, then you'll be fine, if you take it to a dealer be prepared to bend over.
in full agreement, especially at platinum mitsubishi. the service manager said he quoted a tranny replacement for a customer at $6,000. what a ripoff

[CLiVE]

Originally posted by mrcoolawesome
Well I have heard the VR4's are more prone to problems than the SL so I would rather have an SL because I don't care much for power, I just like the looks and styling plus 222hp is plenty enough for me.

You also lose the AWD.

[semograd]

Originally posted by C4S
Well .. GTO is nice, but like any 20 yr old car .. flip a coin!


If it is a clean LHD .. then not bad .. if it is a RHD ? :facepalm:

Non turbo is slow .. and heavy .. turbo one is a bit faster .. then then expect BIG BILLS all the time ... they are just not as reliable as a civic or prelude ...

$4,500 or $10,000 or even $450 ... is not the main concern .. how much do you need on it for the next 2 or 3 year is what you should worry about.

Both my rhd gto's were in better condition than my buddy's 3000gt from the us, I find that I don't even have 1/10 of the problems that the 3000gt/stealth owners have on 3si.org and misubishi-forums. Where are you getting this info ??

N/A is nothing special agreed, just awd, TT is MUCH quicker, youtube up awd launch or vr4 launch third gear on a TT tops out at 200 km/h

please watch this video a factory 3000gt vs a viper, the viper messes up a bit, but you get a good idea of what is a awd launch

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y7YbL7s5jBI


and lastly, whether you beat on it or not will decide how much $ you are going to spend on it in the future

[semograd]

Originally posted by CLiVE


You also lose the AWD.


GTO's/3000gt's came with awd in both turbo and N/A
Stealths only came with awd in a TT

[kylejw]

Originally posted by semograd



GTO's/3000gt's came with awd in both turbo and N/A
Stealths only came with awd in a TT

GTO's are all AWD

3000GT's and Stealths were FWD for N/A, and AWD for TT


The tranny's are rock solid except for the 91's and some 92s. There is a huge misconception there. Just make sure your tcase doesn't leak (there's a recall on it so it's free if it does).
The problem is finding parts for the AWD trannys. But that is getting better as shops are finding suppliers these days.


If you buy one make sure the oil pan is not dented. This is a common problem as the service manual states to support the engine's weight on the pan (!!) when doing the 60k service, however denting the pan is the biggest cause of engine failures for this car.


I would not buy a TT/VR4 for $4500, that is someone's nightmare and will be yours too. If you're fine with FWD on a kind of slow car, a $4500 SL or base will be a good choice. The N/A's are generally very reliable.


Reliability is hit and miss on TT's since it's an old sports car. If it was treated nice it will be problem free, if not it can be very pricey. Do not buy a VR4/TT if you don't like working on cars.

[semograd]

Originally posted by kylejw


GTO's are all AWD

3000GT's and Stealths were FWD for N/A, and AWD for TT


The tranny's are rock solid except for the 91's and some 92s. There is a huge misconception there. Just make sure your tcase doesn't leak (there's a recall on it so it's free if it does).
The problem is finding parts for the AWD trannys. But that is getting better as shops are finding suppliers these days.


If you buy one make sure the oil pan is not dented. This is a common problem as the service manual states to support the engine's weight on the pan (!!) when doing the 60k service, however denting the pan is the biggest cause of engine failures for this car.


I would not buy a TT/VR4 for $4500, that is someone's nightmare and will be yours too. If you're fine with FWD on a kind of slow car, a $4500 SL or base will be a good choice. The N/A's are generally very reliable.


Reliability is hit and miss on TT's since it's an old sports car. If it was treated nice it will be problem free, if not it can be very pricey. Do not buy a VR4/TT if you don't like working on cars.

A VR4 for 4500 sounds like there is something terribly wrong with it, thats way too low of a price for a vr4

Yes in general a N/A is more reliable than a TT, however I've never had any problems with both of my TT's, but I've read a lot of different stories from all sorts of people on the 3si.org/mits-forums.

If you want a better/more answers goto www.mitsubishi-forums.com and pm EMC

[psycoticclown]

My friend has a VR-4 for sale, but probably a bit out of your price range. White '99 VR-4 with 30k kms. http://lethbridge.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-Mitsubishi-1999-Mitsubishi-3000GT-VR-4-W0QQAdIdZ95196529

:burnout:

[s3v3n]

Originally posted by CLiVE
So much bad information in this thread.
:werd:

i wasnt gonna post, but i thought that id toss in my 2c ...

-3000gt + stealth never came n/a awd, but the jdm gto (sr?) did
-they are a little heavy, but only a little more than cars like the mk4 supra or the genesis coupe etc
-stock for stock, they are faster than cars like the rx7, 300zx, supra, etc
-with boltons, its not unusual for them to run low 13s/high12s (vr4/tt obviously)
-the transmissions are fine, its the 1st gen t-cases that may break
-the tt can be reliable, but requires you to keep on top of maintenance... just like most older sports cars.

the 3s has been discussed several times already on beyond. if you do a little searching theres lots of good info.

[StreetRacerX]

Originally posted by s3v3n

:werd:

i wasnt gonna post, but i thought that id toss in my 2c ...

-3000gt + stealth never came n/a awd, but the jdm gto (sr?) did
-they are a little heavy, but only a little more than cars like the mk4 supra or the genesis coupe etc
-stock for stock, they are faster than cars like the rx7, 300zx, supra, etc
-with boltons, its not unusual for them to run low 13s/high12s (vr4/tt obviously)
-the transmissions are fine, its the 1st gen t-cases that may break
-the tt can be reliable, but requires you to keep on top of maintenance... just like most older sports cars.

the 3s has been discussed several times already on beyond. if you do a little searching theres lots of good info.

Couldn't have said it better myself, except I'd like to add that whether or not the car is reliable depends heavily on the past owners maintenance of it. If you are like me and go for the cheap one you can expect to pay for the past owners mistakes and neglect, as aforementioned make sure there are NO dents in the oil pan, since the oil pick up sits near the bottom of the oil pan even the smallest dent could cause a blockage in the pick up preventing your engine from receiving sufficient oil lubrication. IF YOU SEE A DENT DON'T WAIT TILL YOUR NEXT OIL CHANGE TO TAKE THE PAN OFF AND REMOVE THE DENTS, FIX IT NOW!

I had plans to do a purdy build up on the car when I bought it, but I would much rather have still been able to drive it until it was read for its new hardware, I would have rather brought it on our cruise in the summer than my Sebring.

Buy the $4500 one and put 4-8 grand into it so it can run good or buy one a 10-14k and only worry about basic maintenance on it(assuming they were maintained of course).

If I were to buy a N/A it would definitely be the SOHC, a SOLID MACHINE.