k20 swap on an ek

[civic_EK]

just a question for those knowledgable once out there,,,im thinkin of doing a k series swap on my ek and im just wondering what i need for a complete swap????..

[Mr_ET]

You need the search button on Honda-Tech.com

No one on any car forum is gonna take the time to babysit you through the whole process man, show us you're willing to search and put in the effort and we'll help you out!

[EK 2.0]

Here you go...taken from another thread....



ENGINE/TRANNY (All gaskets/seals are considered "known to be needed" items)
----------------
K-series engine(K24/K20)
K-series tranny(Type-R/RSX-S/RSX Base)
K-series engine harness(RSX-S 02-04)
K-series charging harness(RSX-S 02-04)
K-series Alternator(For Engine of Choice)
K-series Starter(For Engine of Choice)
K-series ECU(RSX PRB 02-04) Plus Hondata K-Pro(Or JDM K-series ECU)
CRV Passenger side engine mount(needed for non-CRV K24 swaps)
Header(R-crew/DC/SSR)
Clutch/Flywheel(RSX-S)
RSX Type-S Oxygen Sensor(Primary)
RSX Type-S Knock Sensor(Only if not using RSX-S engine, Or repin stock Knock sensor)
RSX Type-S Clutch Slave Cylinder
RSX Type-S Halfshaft
RSX BASE Axles(For EG only, Swap inner joints) Or...
RSX-S Axles w/ B-series Outers(For EG again, Also rec. swapping inner joints)
RSX Type-S Throttle Body(Or Accord throttle body, depending on engine/intake)
RSX-S Intake Manifold(Or RBC/TSX/Accord)
Karcepts Throttle Body Adapter(only if using RBC)
Engine Mounts(Hybrid/Avid/Hasport)
Harness Conversion(Hybrid/Hasport/Sparkks)
Clutch Line(Hybrid Racing)

RADIATOR/COOLING (This is for using stock radiator)
-----------
Hasport Billet Hose Adapter(For Stock B/D series Fan switch/coolant temp sensor)
Perma-Cool PRM-19120 11"x10" Fan
TOP Rad Hose - RSX Type-S Top Hose(for EK/EG)
BOTTOM Rad Hose - 99-00 Civic Si Top Hose(for EK/EG)

SHIFTER PARTS
-----------
Karcepts Shifter mounting kit
RSX Type-S Shifter Box
RSX-S 02-04 Shifter Cables
Shift Parts to Connect Cables (OEM, easy)

EXHAUST PARTS (Must be custom welded, Can substitute for 2.5")
-----------
Kteller 3" Stainless Piping
3" in/out Muffler
Catalytic Converter if you choose to use one.

FUEL SYSTEM PARTS (Using stock fuel rail, minimum costs)
------------
(www.summitracing.com)
EAR-991945ERL - Converts OEM fuel filter to -6 AN fitting
EAR-165056ERL - Converts OEM fuel rail to -6 AN fitting
RUS-610020 x 4 - Straight -6 AN Hose couplers
SUM-220166N x 3 - Straight cut -6 AN to -6 An hose, Ports on FPR.
RUS-610160 - 90 Degree -6 AN Coupler from fuel filter to FPR.
RUS-632070 - 10 feet -6 AN Hose
AEI-13109 - Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Walbro 190/255lph Fuel Pump(It's cheap, and worth it - http://www.hybrid-performance.com)

IF REMOVING POWER STEERING(with no A/C)
-------------
EP3 Idler pulley/bracket
Manual Steering rack, Or Loop P/S rack
K24 = 52" Serpentine Belt(works perfectly on mine)
K20 = 50.5" Serpentine Belt

IF KEEPING POWER STEERING (No A/C - With a current P/S rack)
-------------
K20 PS Pump
Jackson Racing Pulley - P/N: 052-154 (This will clear an EG hood with K20 swap, no hole...only cutting.)
52" Serpentine Belt(only for K20 - K24 = Unknown?)
02-04 RSX High pressure hose
3/8" I.D. hose
Oil cooler from Perma-Cool Industries P/N:1007 (for P/S fluid return line)

Fluid NEEDS:
-------
POWER STEERING FLUID - 2 Bottles
DOT3 Brake fluid - 2 Bottles
Coolant 50/50 Mix - 2 Bottles(3 to be safe/cover leaking or spillage)
MTF - 3 Bottles
OIL - 6 Quarts

RANDOM HOSES (Not totaly acurate for ALL swap configurations, keep in mind O.D. and I.D. measurements)
-------
10' 3/16" I.D. Hose (possibly not all swaps)
10' 1/4" I.D. Hose
10' 3/8" I.D. Hose
5' 3/4" O.D. Hose
5' 1" O.D. Hose (possibly not all swaps)

MISC BOLTS/Parts (This is mainly used if you buy Engine/Trans apart from one another)
-------
90034-P10-A01 X 6 clutch bolts
90011-PNA-B00 x 8 flywheel bolts
22103-PNA-003 pilot bearing
95701-12060-08 x4 tranny bolts
95701-12085-08 x 2 starter bolts
90027-PND-A00 starter bolt long
90025-PNA-000 bolt
95701-08055-08 x 2
90008-PNA-000 x 2 alternator bolts
90008-PPA-000 bolt
21351-PNB-000 cover for tranny to connect k24a with k20a2 type s tranny(only K24)
95701-06012-08 x 3 bolts


There are a few things on there that can be substituted for other things...exhausts, header, the list of bolts might not be needed as you might purchase an egine and tranny together versus already separated......But for the most part a list of everything you will need...

An EG subframe will also help the motor sit further back in the bay...but not totally required...


Have fun.

[Deetz]

As mentioned, its not a typical swap, and will set you back some $$
If done right, you can have a pretty nice ride.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg215/dagreenek/IMG_0184-1.jpg

[civic_EK]

thx guys!!!

[403ep3]

I would love an a2 swapped eg..too bad it costs a shit load of money.

Good luck with your swap. Time to lower your bank account :angel:

[EK 2.0]

Also, i don't know the current status of your car as it sits right now...

but it's not just about a K...then you gotta do the suspension and brakes to be able to keep up with your new chassis' capabilities...

Depending on the motor you opt to go for in the end it can run you upwards of 10 G's...

[Redlyne_mr2]

Wow you really have to love your EK to go that route.

[EK 2.0]

You have to also remember the K swap is still kind of in its infancy.

Remember when peeps first started dropping in ITR's wayyyy back when, it wasn't cheap either...but just a LOT less involved...

K swap is something I really want to do...the issue lies...do it now, be a big time :bigpimp:...or wait till prices drop huge and do it then hahaha...and be far less a big time :bigpimp:

[1-Bar]

Or wait for the next big thing......I still say swap in the s2k motor and call it a day..... :D

[403ep3]

Yeah, don't swap in an engine if you aren't/haven't already changed your brakes, suspension, and other important stuff.

My next car will either be a project eg or a brand new car..hmmm

[quincyb11]

If you're gonna do a k20 swap into your EK, there are a few things you should know.

The custom parts you're going to need and is a must because OEM or aftermarket parts won't fit exactly are:

AXLES - Like Ek.20 mentioned you can use RSX-S inner shafts and B-series outer CV joints, but will still come up short on the passengers side so you can use an RSX-S inner and 92+prelude Shaft with b-series outer CV joints. IMO you should't screw around with that. Buy new STRONGER axles. Hasport, Karcepts, Hybrid, The Driveshaft shop all sell axles specifically designed for your k-swap. If you are gonna be dumping a k20a(Type R) into your ek then I would recommend you go with something a little bit more stronger, something that will be able to withstand 300-400hp "just to be one the safe side".

EXHAUST HEADERS - The EK has a different cross member so using any aftermarket header will probably interfere with the crossmember. You have to use headers designed for the k20 EK swap. Again Hasport, Hybrid Racing, Karcepts all sell that. I've also heard good things about R.Crew headers!!

ENGINE MOUNTS - You are going to need custom engine mounts. All of the shops mentioned above sell these mounts. Hasport and Hybrid are the top sellers for k-series swap mounts. I would go with Hybrid!!:thumbsup:

WIRING - Oh boy! If you are gonna be doing this yourself or with some friends, be prepared cuz its a nightmare. Instead of scewing around with the key, transponder and crap, I would recommend spending $400-$500 dollars and send your EK engine harness and the K engine and charging harness to Hasport and they will create a plug n play version for you. This will definitely save you alot of time.

ECU - If you buy a USDM k20a2(Type S) or the base model, I think you're going to need a Hondata K-pro or any other aftermarket supporting ECU, unless you can get your hands on a JDM Dc5R ECU. The reason for this is because the USDM ECU's immobilizer won't let you run the car... somebody correct me if I'm wrong. However if you buy a JDM DC5R(K20a) ECU then you won't need to purchase an aftermarket ECU. IMO K-pro is always the better route to go because it has many tuning features which can give you great numbers if tuned properly. An expensive option though. I think if you have a JDM DC5R ECU you can send it to Hondata and they will give you the K-pro ECU for a bit cheaper.

HOSES - I think you're going to need custom hoses. I can't remember what my buddy used but I think you can use GSR hoses not sure though.

FUEL RAIL & PRESSURE REGULATOR - You will need both of these. Again all of the shops mentioned carry these parts. AEM & Golden Eagle makes good fuel rails as well.

SHIFTING - Your EK shift linkage is different from the K-series shift linkage. The EK uses Rods under the car and the K uses cables.

I'm kinda tired of typing so can somebody else shed some light on the shifter for the OP???

[EK 2.0]

Originally posted by 1-Bar

I still say swap in the s2k motor and call it a day..... :D



I already have an F20...;)

[kolumbo69]

k20a.org is the place for all your needs, The k20 isnt a swap in its infancy as some may think. Imho i think that its the best bang for buck swap into any honda as it can make huge n/a whp with few upgrades. I would stick with hybrid racing for all your swap parts. good luck have fun.:thumbsup:

[civic_EK]

this is great guys....ive been saving for a while for this swap..i hope everything goes well...thx

[quincyb11]

Originally posted by kolumbo69
k20a.org is the place for all your needs, The k20 isnt a swap in its infancy as some may think. Imho i think that its the best bang for buck swap into any honda as it can make huge n/a whp with few upgrades. I would stick with hybrid racing for all your swap parts. good luck have fun.:thumbsup:

Yeah K-swaps have been around for a while but they're still expensive as hell. And its gonna be a long while before prices go down considerably.

I wouldn't say best bang for the buck, but definitely worth the money you invest into it.

HYBRID RACING FTMFW!!!

Hey did you know they designed a new bolt it shift kit for the K-swap??? I think its coming out really soon and alot of people are pre-ordering theirs. No more Karcepts bullshit cutting. The stick shift on the new hybrid shift kits has 432 different configurations...lol... thats crazy!!!

[quincyb11]

Originally posted by civic_EK
this is great guys....ive been saving for a while for this swap..i hope everything goes well...thx

Just make sure you have over 10G's saved up!!!!

3500-3900 for a K20a2(Type S)
5700-6000 for a k20a(DC5R)
3000-3500 for K24(TSX or Accord) Very torquey!!

3-4G's for parts

900-1000 for labour

Prices for motor and parts in US.

K20a2 head with a k24 block and you'll have a MF BEAST!!!

[GQBalla]

how much is a k20 swap anyways roughly?

[quincyb11]

Originally posted by GQBalla
how much is a k20 swap anyways roughly?

It all depends on which K motor you're swapping and what you want to do with it.

But roughly I'd say a good 8k to 12-13k depending on what you wanna do.

Edit: With our dollar being crap right now expect to spend a little bit more.

[GQBalla]

Originally posted by quincyb11


It all depends on which K motor you're swapping and what you want to do with it.

But roughly I'd say a good 8k to 12-13k depending on what you wanna do.

Edit: With our dollar being crap right now expect to spend a little bit more.

mm i see - thats pretty much what speedtech quoted me too -

[quincyb11]

Originally posted by GQBalla


mm i see - thats pretty much what speedtech quoted me too -

I wish I still lived in Toronto. My buddy's had their swaps done for cheap, well cheaper than here.

One of my buddy's picked up a k20a2 for 2500, parts 3500 and installed for 600.

[GQBalla]

Originally posted by quincyb11


I wish I still lived in Toronto. My buddy's had their swaps done for cheap, well cheaper than here.

One of my buddy's picked up a k20a2 for 2500, parts 3500 and installed for 600.

wow are you serious?

damn, im just wondering do you have a k20 in your EK?

did you install everything yourself?

[quincyb11]

Originally posted by GQBalla


wow are you serious?

damn, im just wondering do you have a k20 in your EK?

did you install everything yourself?

Don't have in my EK yet, and not sure if I want to do that swap anymore. When I was living in Toronto I've watched and helped my buds do their swaps. That and lots of reading up on it.

Yeah its ridiculous how many people have K motors in Toronto. When I left TO in 2005 lots of peeps had k-swaps... now its just insane.

[GQBalla]

Originally posted by quincyb11


Don't have in my EK yet, and not sure if I want to do that swap anymore. When I was living in Toronto I've watched and helped my buds do their swaps. That and lots of reading up on it.

Yeah its ridiculous how many people have K motors in Toronto. When I left TO in 2005 lots of peeps had k-swaps... now its just insane.

ah i see, yeah my friend says out in toronto his cousin can get me the engine cheap, less than half over here, but than i dunno how much for shipping and everything would be more of a hassle.

[JordanEG6]

Karcepts is a great name in K-swaps. Here's a few more other things you should know:

- I used a Karcepts kit, I thought it was great and it looked clean, if you wanna buy parts right away and don't mind the labor, get one. Like, quincy said, there is a kit coming out that is supposed to eliminate ANY cutting whatsoever, but I don't know when it's releasing. But I can vouche for the Karcepts kit. Cutting would suck, but at the end it looks great.

- Not sure how it will work on the EK, but for the EG, I had to move the radiator from the passenger side to the drivers side to make clearance for the intake manifold. If you're using a full rad, I'd switch to a dual core half to make some space. Just drill the welds on the rad supports and weld them on the opposite side. Karcepts and Hybrid Racing also have a mounting kit for this for a cleaner look.

- +1 for R-Crew, they make AWESOME headers. I had one on mine. Best bang for your buck in terms of exhaust. I think it was about $1000. It's probably cheaper by now.

- Don't buy Hybrid Racing steel mesh hose kits. It's a rip off. Go to Mopac on 16th and buy the hoses there to save money. Hybrid Racing can also e-mail you the Goodf Year part numbers of the rad hoses so you can order them at your local parts store.

- You have to cut some mounts off in order for the new mounts to fit. Not sure how it is for EK, but the passenger mount had to be cut off for my EG.

I think that's it. The rest have been covered already. For a few minor upgrades, I would suggest getting an RBC intake mani, I've heard nothing but good on torgue gains.





Originally posted by EK 2.0
Also, i don't know the current status of your car as it sits right now...

but it's not just about a K...then you gotta do the suspension and brakes to be able to keep up with your new chassis' capabilities...

Depending on the motor you opt to go for in the end it can run you upwards of 10 G's...

Yes this is true. I'm not sure how much the K-swap is now, but it costed me around the 10G mark to get it to crank and start up. There are short cuts of course, but if you plan on dropping a K-series into the car, why not go big? Haha.

[quincyb11]

Originally posted by JordanEG6
Karcepts is a great name in K-swaps. Here's a few more other things you should know:

- I used a Karcepts kit, I thought it was great and it looked clean, if you wanna buy parts right away and don't mind the labor, get one. Like, quincy said, there is a kit coming out that is supposed to eliminate ANY cutting whatsoever, but I don't know when it's releasing. But I can vouche for the Karcepts kit. Cutting would suck, but at the end it looks great.

- Not sure how it will work on the EK, but for the EG, I had to move the radiator from the passenger side to the drivers side to make clearance for the intake manifold. If you're using a full rad, I'd switch to a dual core half to make some space. Just drill the welds on the rad supports and weld them on the opposite side. Karcepts and Hybrid Racing also have a mounting kit for this for a cleaner look.

- +1 for R-Crew, they make AWESOME headers. I had one on mine. Best bang for your buck in terms of exhaust. I think it was about $1000. It's probably cheaper by now.

- Don't buy Hybrid Racing steel mesh hose kits. It's a rip off. Go to Mopac on 16th and buy the hoses there to save money. Hybrid Racing can also e-mail you the Goodf Year part numbers of the rad hoses so you can order them at your local parts store.

- You have to cut some mounts off in order for the new mounts to fit. Not sure how it is for EK, but the passenger mount had to be cut off for my EG.

I think that's it. The rest have been covered already. For a few minor upgrades, I would suggest getting an RBC intake mani, I've heard nothing but good on torgue gains.



Oh the Karcepts kit is a great product, makes the stick shift look nice and stock, plus its much cheaper. The only thing is the cutting, it's kinda like you have to butcher your car in way, but not really. I would just feel better if I didn't have to cut anything and try to keep everything in its original state. Thats just me being anal I guess. The good thing about the hybrid racing shift kit is that it allows you to adjust the throw of the shift 3 ways. Plus 432 possible configurations, thats crazy!!

+2 for the RBC intake manifold from what I heard as well.

and +2 for the hybrid racing radiator re-locating kit!!

Oh and hybrid racing now has a power steering kit for the 96-00 civic's, came out a few months ago!! Awesome!!!

Hybrid racing FTW!!!

[kolumbo69]

While you doing the swap you might as well do the s2000 gauge cluster I believe someone makes a plug and play kit on k20a.org somewhere. It looks so hot.

I would do the k24 either with the k20a2 head or on its own. Huge tq numbers and with porting, cams and such the k24 will flow just as well as the k20, that and u can bore and stroke the k24 to 2.6L and make 350whp easily with 11:1 pistons cams and can run it all day on 91.

Im very envious right now as if it wasn't for school, the wife wanting a house this would be my next project!