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CopCarDriver
12-29-2008, 12:10 PM
I'm trying to run my newest car (an 85 Crown Vic) with an amplified sound system, as there was no sound in the car since the rebuild.

I've ran my 12v w/fuse from the battery, to the trunk where the amp is. I've got a working ground, and a working 12v remote from the ignition. I have a sony xplod 55watt deck installed and working.

My amp is a TIS 750watt 4 channel, plus one sub channel. I want to run two 6x9 pioneer 3 ways, (POSSIBLY) two DUB 2ways, and a 10" sub. (i have 2, but dont know if its possible to run)

I had it all hooked up, and "sort of" working. I got really quiet, distorted sound. re did all connections, nothing. I point the blame at my deck, because i had to run off the HIGH LEVEL inputs, as it doesn't have low level RCA out. my amp HAS a high level input, but on a cheap amp, I'm not sure how well it was supposed to work. I've tested all the equipment separate, and it works as its supposed to.

My question is, how can i test the amp out of the car to make sure it works proper, and how can i get low level to my amp from my deck? anyone know if those converters work, let alone are safe?

Thanks in advance, i'm not an audio guy, but i have electronic and electrical knowledge.

Graham_A_M
12-30-2008, 11:06 AM
Hi,
Just a bit of a "tip"; you should spend a fair bit more on higher end audio, sounds like you're using the worst of the worst.
In terms of audio, you get what you pay for. At best It'll sound mediocre. So with that in mind, lets get started.

To convert your speaker level outputs, to something the amp can properly use in the format of RCA line voltage (Which is .2 to 5volts RMS typically), down significantly from speaker level power, and at a very different ohmage: you'll need this.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=267-766
Lots of companies make them, they're called Line converters.
There is a member here that has one in Calgary, for sale. Just PM this person.
http://forums.beyond.ca/member.php?s=&action=getinfo&userid=50826
-From there you input two of the speaker level outputs coming from the CD player, into its high level input terminals.
-Next up is powering the line converter. You can hook it up much like you would an amp, with the (solid) blue wire coming from the deck, to be connected to the remote input. The remote wire will have to be split/"daisy linked" between the amp and the this line converter as it'll need to signal both devices.
-Connect the +12 volt input to the power wire you have coming from the battery ( 8 gauge should be good for the main primary power wire, you'll only need a very thin wire going to this actual device however, as in 14 gauge).
-Connect a 14 gauge wire to the chassis, and connect that into its -12V input.
You are now ready to go with the line converter, and connect the RCA's from the output of the converter to the RCA inputs of the amp. I'd set the adjustable gain controls on the line converter to half way, and turn any gain controls on the amp to half way as well. They can be fine tuned later.
Next up is the amp. Hook it up the same way as you would the line converter. However this time using the 8 gauge power wire (+12V) feeding into the amp, and connect the negative (-12V) to the chassis ground, also using the 8 guage wire.

Alright to continue on, You might want to use some RCA splitters. They take a given RCA line (as in one that would be red or white in color) and multiply it by two. YOu can get these at Circuit city/Source or any car audio place such as visions.
SInce you'll be splitting the TWO RCA's basically three ways, two to the speakers, the other one to the sub. Even with another two if you plan on adding those other speakers potentially, although there are many other ways of getting around that taking into account the wiring options, but I wont digress into that now.

Next you can use the "Y splitter" on any of the two RCA's available. Now use two of three available RCA outputs to two of the channels you plan on using for the 4 channel section of the amp. Then use the remaining RCA you still have available to be fed into the RCA input of the subwoofer channel. You should now have power going to all the required channels, including the core wiring.
Hopefully your amp should have a low pass/high pass filter (or even a crossover) for all the channels. If you do, set the speaker high pass filter/crossover down to 60-120hz, or somewhere around there. Then set the low pass filter/crossover for the subwoofer to be at 60-100hz or below.
Now you should have low frequencies going to the sub, and high frequencies going to the speakers. I'd suggest using 14 gauge speaker wire, or heavier throughout. Even 12 gauge for the subwoofer.
IF anything is unclear, or if I'm missing any info, or if there is anything you'd like to add for me to better help you, just ask.
-Good luck.

CopCarDriver
12-31-2008, 08:37 AM
thanks for the advice. I just scrapped the gear and went with a new amp, and new speakers (kept the pioneers). I need the converter still, cause the deck doesnt do low output. Thanks again.

Graham_A_M
12-31-2008, 10:40 AM
No problem, with the new amp and speakers, if there are any diffrentiated wiring set-ups you need help with, just ask.
There a lot of different speaker/subwoofer wiring set-ups you can do. :thumbsup:

CopCarDriver
12-31-2008, 11:46 AM
Yeah, at first i though wiring up a car couldnt be toooo difficult, but it seems there is ALOT i dont know.