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Toma
02-07-2009, 12:07 AM
Parts are rolling in soooo.....

Thanks to JDM Motor Imports for the car :thumbsup:
http://www.dynomotive.ca/RX7black.jpg

Just a little single turbo
http://www.dynomotive.ca/rx7turbo.jpg

A Haltech E8.... gonna rewire engine
http://www.dynomotive.ca/rxthal.jpg

Air to Water Intercooler.

Gonna try the motor that is in it, and in the meantime build the spare one :thumbsup:

badatusrnames
02-07-2009, 12:18 AM
Sexytime :thumbsup:

dj_rice
02-07-2009, 12:22 AM
With your tuning knowledge, I anticipate a monster in the making

Toma
02-07-2009, 12:30 AM
Originally posted by dj_rice
With your tuning knowledge, I anticipate a monster in the making

Nah, nothing too crazy..... Just something fun. Got the axle upgrade ordered as well in case it sees drag radials.....

Gabe182
02-07-2009, 12:35 AM
are you getting new rims? if you are, i wouldent mind taking those off your hands.

That thing is sex :thumbsup:

Supa Dexta
02-07-2009, 12:36 AM
Is that a borg?

dj_rice
02-07-2009, 12:38 AM
Are you gonna keep the popup headlights look or go with the flush ones

Toma
02-07-2009, 09:44 PM
Originally posted by dj_rice
Are you gonna keep the popup headlights look or go with the flush ones
Didn't know there were flush... probably just leave them alone.

ryanallan
02-07-2009, 09:48 PM
looking forward to this build :thumbsup:

there was a good post on rx7club the other day about building a reliable and powerful rotary.
the guy says cooling the intake charge is the answer. he uses alcohol injection .

Trini
02-07-2009, 10:25 PM
sweet
looking forward to the finished build

R154
02-10-2009, 02:04 PM
Looks like an SPA.

Noremac
02-13-2009, 01:19 AM
Is that a Master Power turbo I spy?

If so Which Model?

top_speed
02-13-2009, 01:22 AM
wow :drool:

mazda_maniac
02-13-2009, 07:37 AM
FD's are heaven sent!

Toma
05-26-2010, 03:15 AM
Holy crap batman.... Been busy, so time for an update...

It runs, drives, and makes 406 rwhp at 19 pounds on pump gas.

Finally put her on the rollers yesterday, got it upto 300 rwhp, but the stock fuel pump was out of jamb.

Today, slapped in a Walboro 255, and started making some boost. This car has a goofy "Spec 92dB" muffler on it at the back, but the rest of the system is 3".. we hit 335 rwhp, but the boost would no longer go up (maxed at about 14 to 15 psi).

Sooo... I uncorked the exhaust, and WHAMO, 25 psi! Oops!!

After a few puls she was doing 390 at 18 psi, then I upped the boost to 19, and she caughed out the 406.

Getting greedy, I upped the boost another 4 clicks, she went to 21 psi, It was 2am, I was high on Mohawk 94 octane, and was excited to see the wicked power curve developing, and completely ignored the WideBand!!! What do you know, we maxed the Walboro 255, it leaned to 13.7:1, and she coughed a seal!

LOL....

It was VERY fun though, and I am very happy that it made over 400 to the wheels on pump gas, on my dyno. My other car made 404 on mine, and 441 Dynojet, and ran 120 mph at 3600 pounds!!

This little car is gonna be a rocket ship. Lucky I have a spare motor ;)

Toma
05-26-2010, 03:16 AM
Stock engine, LS1 coils, Hatlech Sport1000 ecu. 80/160 injectors

Toma
05-26-2010, 03:17 AM
Big front mount, MaterPower T70

Sentry
05-26-2010, 03:35 AM
Nothing like a big assed front mount to get the job done.

sr20s14zenki
05-26-2010, 05:18 AM
I wish i could have been there to see the runs :(

rotaries are my secret love, i just cant afford them anymore haha.

Mr_ET
05-26-2010, 06:31 AM
Was this why I ended up with a Wednesday appointment, so you could blow up a rotary ?:poosie:

Why not do an LS1 swap and make 406 whp and equal torque all day every day reliably?

badatusrnames
05-26-2010, 06:42 AM
Originally posted by Mr_ET
Why not do an LS1 swap and make 406 whp and equal torque all day every day reliably?

What does this do to the balance of the car though?

Kloubek
05-26-2010, 08:48 AM
Funny Toma... I was reading what you were doing with the engine, and I told myself... "this guy is gonna break a seal".

Guess what? :)

No, an LS1 barely effects the balance actually. It's weird, as the rotary is so small. I think it only weighs something like 100 pounds less.

People are mixed on putting in a V8. The purists say you ruin the car and what it was made to be. Personally, I think it is a very interesting project, and you do end up with a car that is easier to maintain. I'm NOT going to say it is techically more reliable though - since (contrary to what the non-owners think), the rotary is extremely reliable IF you take good care of it.

Should be an interesting project. Shame it's a RHD. ;)

05-26-2010, 08:58 AM
Damn, you got that car together quick!

JfuckinC
05-26-2010, 09:14 AM
Do an LS swap, my friend has an LS6 FD and it's carazzzyyyyyy

Mr_ET
05-26-2010, 09:21 AM
Originally posted by badatusrnames


What does this do to the balance of the car though?

The difference in weight is less than 100 pounds and springs can take care of that.

You are then left with a car that handles as well as before with a much more potent and reliable powerplant.

I love the FD but the rotary is the least reliable engine I have ever experienced.

We blew one engine at the track last year, that includes all makes and models, some stock, some heavily modified making over 600whp.

The only engine that blew up was a turbo rotary. It blew a seal so it was back up quick but no one else had issues.

This includes my 280000km 106hp D16y7 motor that was going through a litre of oil every race and I kept revving it between 5 and 7200rpms lol.

Toma
05-26-2010, 10:26 AM
Originally posted by Mr_ET
Was this why I ended up with a Wednesday appointment, so you could blow up a rotary ?:poosie:

Why not do an LS1 swap and make 406 whp and equal torque all day every day reliably?

LOL.... no.... but it is why I have to wait to 11 or midnight to dyno my own shit lol.

LS1's dont make 400 rwhp "all day". They make 280, 300 with some bolt ons.

400 takes a very expensive head/cam package or forced induction.

Mr_ET
05-26-2010, 10:30 AM
you already have a turbo :P

Toma
05-26-2010, 10:45 AM
Originally posted by sr20s14zenki
I wish i could have been there to see the runs :(

rotaries are my secret love, i just cant afford them anymore haha.

I don't think they are that expensive. Getting 400+ hp was a breeze!

Stock motor, Ebay Front mount, MasterPower T70, Used Injectors, Professional Prdocuts EFI regulator, Walboro pump, Haltech, Ebay Radiator, Ebay manifold, ebay wastegate and BOV.

You have to understand how I work on my own shit....

I load it hard on the dyno, I tweek EVERY aspect. I do stuff that all the internet experts claim I shouldn't.

This was an "R&D" effort for me, I needed to know for myself how far I could push the tune, I ran timing, split, and AF ratios everyone said you could not, and I made LOADED runs with 12+ second run durations.... SIXTY runs

In the end, being tired fucked me up, and not the tune... that, and I expected the Walboro to carry me to 450 rwhp lol....

Toma
05-26-2010, 10:53 AM
Here are a couple of the 400hp runs...

Notice she was over 375rwhp for almost 3000 rpm! (5500 to 8500, top graph).

And I lied.... just shy of 18 psi... fuck...I'm STILL tired lol.

http://www.dynomotive.ca/rx7400hp.jpg

Toma
05-26-2010, 10:58 AM
Originally posted by Mr_ET
you already have a turbo :P

Yeah, but I gotta be honest...

replacing a rotary with and LS1 that ONLY makes 450 is pretty gay IMO.

It's the old school thinking... "oh shit, I'm too stupid to make a Ford Engine work, better put a small block Chevy in it" lol/

I understand why other people do it... they are on a budget, dont have a dyno, or resources etc, or are scared to experiment and push the limit.... or they just take internet lore as gospel. I'm not like that, I need to know for myself.

If I was gonna do a swap, it better make 800hp or so.

Pretty sure I woulda hit 450 on pump gas had I not been a cheapskate and used a used walboro 255, but bought a Bosch 044 instead.

dj_honda
05-26-2010, 11:20 AM
who's building the spare motor? specifically the machine work?

Toma
05-26-2010, 11:35 AM
Originally posted by dj_honda
who's building the spare motor? specifically the machine work?
Nobody. It's another stocker....

I WAS going to "build" it, port it, put seals in it etc... but why? 400 whp is more than enough for me for now.

Toma
05-26-2010, 09:59 PM
Video of a couple runs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_sjRYysYro

Redlyne_jr
05-26-2010, 11:50 PM
awesome numbers toma!!

soloracer
05-27-2010, 07:39 PM
http://thumb7.shutterstock.com.edgesuite.net/display_pic_with_logo/69661/69661,1205012705,2/stock-photo-hand-grenade-with-pin-pulled-floating-over-a-white-background-10168426.jpg



:devil:

m10-power
05-27-2010, 08:32 PM
Originally posted by Toma


LOL.... no.... but it is why I have to wait to 11 or midnight to dyno my own shit lol.

LS1's dont make 400 rwhp "all day". They make 280, 300 with some bolt ons.

400 takes a very expensive head/cam package or forced induction.

My stock bottom ls1 made 421rwhp on factory heads and a smallish cam

lots of 400rwhp ls1s around with only a cam and exhaust, hardly expensive

sr20s14zenki
05-27-2010, 08:41 PM
Originally posted by m10-power


My stock bottom ls1 made 421rwhp on factory heads and a smallish cam

lots of 400rwhp ls1s around with only a cam and exhaust, hardly expensive

what dyno was that on? A dynojet?

Toma
05-27-2010, 08:44 PM
Originally posted by m10-power


My stock bottom ls1 made 421rwhp on factory heads and a smallish cam

lots of 400rwhp ls1s around with only a cam and exhaust, hardly expensive
Not on my dyno it won't.

To hit over 400 rwhp on my dyno with an LS1 will take $3000 in CNC ported heads, a very good cam, possibly an intake.

Mr_ET
05-27-2010, 08:55 PM
That's pretty cheap lol :p

So you wana redyno my car with no cat and the cam gear where it should be on the exhaust?

8 degrees advance on the exhaust is no good :P

m10-power
05-27-2010, 09:07 PM
Originally posted by Toma

Not on my dyno it won't.

To hit over 400 rwhp on my dyno with an LS1 will take $3000 in CNC ported heads, a very good cam, possibly an intake.

Something wrong with your dyno? Go over to ls1tech look in the dyno section and find all the 400whp mustang dyno near stock ls1s, nothing special

Ekliptix
05-27-2010, 09:20 PM
Originally posted by m10-power


My stock bottom ls1 made 421rwhp on factory heads and a smallish cam

lots of 400rwhp ls1s around with only a cam and exhaust, hardly expensive
I don't buy this. My LS6 with headers and a small cam made 406whp on a dynojet. Do you have and 1/4mi times? IMO those are more telling then dyno #s.


Nice work Toma, can't wait to see it at the track with the other engine.

Sentry
05-27-2010, 09:26 PM
Yeah, the top end MPH tells all.

Toma
05-27-2010, 09:28 PM
Originally posted by Ekliptix

I don't buy this. My LS6 with headers and a small cam made 406whp on a dynojet. Do you have and 1/4mi times? IMO those are more telling then dyno #s.


Nice work Toma, can't wait to see it at the track with the other engine.

Yep. I have seen SO many supposedly "400 hp" LS1's, and my exhaust/tune/lid '02 Camaro SS outruns them :dunno:

My other 404 rwhp car made 441 Dynojet.
A customer of mine made 580 on mine, and 710 Dynojet. Yet, the MPH at the track?? Says "580" :thumbsup:

m10-power
05-27-2010, 09:54 PM
Deleted to stop the highjacking

rx7_turbo2
05-29-2010, 10:38 AM
380-400rwhp @ 18+psi seems a bit wacky, I would have expected those numbers at lower psi, but some of that could be the ebay parts, the dyno etc etc. :thumbsup:

None the less a fun car at 400rwhp!

I've said this about a zillion times now but its worth repeating. Most of the "good" info regarding rotaries stayed in Japan. It never migrated here. That's why people get frustrated here with them.

I've been running close to 400rwhp for nearly 4 years now, stock seals, S4 block, just porting and big turbo. No issues. You need two things.

The first is someone who knows how to build a rotary properly! Yes I know we have a "specialist" :facepalm:lol in town, but seriously unless you know someone who has spent extensive time in Japan building motors, they just simply don't know the "keys" and "tricks" to a reliable rotary. The Japanese whether by design or not havent shared their knowledge with North American builders. Really besides a couple of things there not secrets, you need to be meticulous, measure everything twice, it's time consuming, if your local rotary builder is builidng multiple engines a day he's missing something.

The second is someone who knows how to tune a rotary. Again not many in North America. Most of the tuning info here is 10 years old. Especially when it comes to timing. Lots of tuners hunt for HP and Tq in timing advance and split, and they end up blowing shit up.

I don't want to rip on anyone who says "the rotary is the least relaible motor I've ever owned" But the reality is that the reason they feel that way has nothing to do with the motor and everything to do with who built it and tuned it.

sr20s14zenki
05-29-2010, 10:53 AM
Originally posted by rx7_turbo2
380-400rwhp @ 18+psi seems a bit wacky, I would have expected those numbers at lower psi, but some of that could be the ebay parts, the dyno etc etc. :thumbsup:

None the less a fun car at 400rwhp!

I've said this about a zillion times now but its worth repeating. Most of the "good" info regarding rotaries stayed in Japan. It never migrated here. That's why people get frustrated here with them.

I've been running close to 400rwhp for nearly 4 years now, stock seals, S4 block, just porting and big turbo. No issues. You need two things.

The first is someone who knows how to build a rotary properly! Yes I know we have a "specialist" :facepalm:lol in town, but seriously unless you know someone who has spent extensive time in Japan building motors, they just simply don't know the "keys" and "tricks" to a reliable rotary. The Japanese whether by design or not havent shared their knowledge with North American builders. Really besides a couple of things there not secrets, you need to be meticulous, measure everything twice, it's time consuming, if your local rotary builder is builidng multiple engines a day he's missing something.

The second is someone who knows how to tune a rotary. Again not many in North America. Most of the tuning info here is 10 years old. Especially when it comes to timing. Lots of tuners hunt for HP and Tq in timing advance and split, and they end up blowing shit up.

I don't want to rip on anyone who says "the rotary is the least relaible motor I've ever owned" But the reality is that the reason they feel that way has nothing to do with the motor and everything to do with who built it and tuned it.


I worked for a local "specialist" at one time. I saw him assemble an engine in 20 minutes (from pre-prepped parts of course) and god knows how long that one lasted ;)

My turboII was very reliable, i put my one s4 engine thru soooo much shit before it finally died, and it didnt even really die, it just lost a chunk of side seal and it went thru the oil viton, making it gobble oil at an alarming rate. It was still fast as hell, just left a white cloud behind it and actually dribbled oil out of the exhaust. The sound of a rotary.....oh my god, so great :D

rx7_turbo2
05-29-2010, 12:19 PM
Originally posted by sr20s14zenki



I worked for a local "specialist" at one time. I saw him assemble an engine in 20 minutes (from pre-prepped parts of course) and god knows how long that one lasted ;)


Ya I know, I've heard that from a few people working there, and I've seen the evidence of it in motors he's built that I've seen disassembled. Of the one's I've seen they reek of "whipped" together quickly without care.

You have to ask yourself this. For a city that has a shop calling themselves a "specialist" why are there so many people who own or have owned rotaries that harbor so much animosity for the engine? You'd think the opposite would be true. Most peoples experiences with rotary's is short in this city, and end in anger towards the motor. If we had a decent shop to bring them I don't think that would be the case. Of the guys I know who have owned rotaries for years we all do our own work, and work on eachothers cars, and we're satisfied with the rotary as a power plant. So what does that tell you.

Anyways threads getting off topic lol.

Toma
05-29-2010, 07:48 PM
Shit, my spare motor was no good...

So now I have to "build" one.

Fawk.

Ordered 2 "how to" videos... let the games begin lol!

Hoping between the 3 engines I have, I have 2 good housings lol.

My first "build" will be a "'el cheapo" just to gain some experience.

sr20s14zenki
05-29-2010, 07:58 PM
Originally posted by Toma
Shit, my spare motor was no good...

So now I have to "build" one.

Fawk.

Ordered 2 "how to" videos... let the games begin lol!

Hoping between the 3 engines I have, I have 2 good housings lol.

My first "build" will be a "'el cheapo" just to gain some experience.

Yep just pay attention to the videos and youll be fine. ALOT of the build process is making sure all of the parts you are putting in are to spec. Toma, why dont you order the Rotary Aviation rebuild kit, ive heard nothing but good about them, and they use a MUCH better seal than the stock mazda seals. Maybe worth checking out? Some guys swear by stock seals, and some really like to use the aftermarket ones, i sppose ultimately its up to you

http://rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_kits.htm

you can change to the EVEN better seals for like 75$ i think.:D

Toma
05-29-2010, 08:10 PM
$1000!!!

Cant I just use all used parts? :eek: :nut:

sr20s14zenki
05-29-2010, 08:16 PM
Originally posted by Toma
$1000!!!

Cant I just use all used parts? :eek: :nut:

Haha this is where the expensive part i was talking about comes in ;)

really tho, thats not bad, if i think about what i would pay for a set of rods and pistons, it would be around 1000$, and then theres machining, blah blah blah. Then TUNING!!!!!!!!:banghead:

i think rx7 specialties charges big bucks for just their seals, like 400$.

also, i can hook you up with the guy that can corner clearance your rotors, helps with wobble at higher revs and what not.

tsi_neal
05-29-2010, 08:33 PM
You can use used parts if things are in spec, I wouldnt reuse apex seals if you want the motor to last at all. Given that you have 3 blown motors of likely unknown use and mileage all new hard seals are probably best. genuine mazda pieces are best.

FSM is your best bet for info on rebuilding, mazda knows mazda motors best, the videos arent really needed... my advice is clean everything untill its spotless and then clean it again, and when setting your clearances measure everything and then measure it again.

soloracer
05-29-2010, 09:40 PM
Originally posted by Toma
$1000!!!

Cant I just use all used parts? :eek: :nut:

Sure, if you want a motor that runs like crap. Anyone thinking of rebuilding a rotary with used parts (seals, etc.) should be shot. Here lies the difference between Japan and North America. In Japan they don't even "think" of using used parts in an engine build. It seems like in North America everyone is a bunch of cheapskates buying crap parts, horrible quality knockoffs and reusing old stuff to try and save a buck. As a result we get the "rotary engines are unreliable" and "japanese body kits fit like crap" reputations. What is so wrong with doing something right the first time? :banghead:

P.S. I would avoid the aftermarket seals - they have been proven to warp and not seal as good as the factory units. Stock Mazda seals have tons of development in them and are used in racing applications by the factory for years (think 787B for example). Another prime example of people here trying to save a buck and getting exactly what they pay for.

rx7_turbo2
05-29-2010, 10:00 PM
Originally posted by sr20s14zenki


Toma, why dont you order the Rotary Aviation rebuild kit, ive heard nothing but good about them, and they use a MUCH better seal than the stock mazda seals. Maybe worth checking out? Some guys swear by stock seals, and some really like to use the aftermarket ones, i sppose ultimately its up to you

http://rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_kits.htm

you can change to the EVEN better seals for like 75$ i think.:D

RA stuff is junk. Stock is best. Use stock seals, use stock gaskets including o rings. Don't mess with any of the aftermarket crap, don't let anyone tell you it's better than stock its not. Mazda has far more money into R&D than any of these rinky dink aftermarket companys in North America. Using all this aftermarket junk is just one more reason the rotary has gotten a bad rap here, stay away from it at all cost.

You can build a motor with used parts. If the used parts all check out within spec you can use them. Is new better? Yup. But a decent build can be done with used housings and rotors provided they check out. Again my motor was built with used rotors and housings and ALL stock parts, seals, gaskets etc, and it's held up fine for years now with decent HP numbers. Shit my Apex seals are the old 3 piece ones.

The best advice you've gotten is to measure everything then measure it again, build it slowly step by step. The Mazda factory service manual is good, but if you compare the english FSM to the japanese FSM you'll find there are differences;) Almost like the english version was "dumbed" down a bit, more likey some things didnt translate properly so they were omitted lol.

The first question to ask is how do I avoid blowing another motor once it's built. Clearly something in the tuning is gone wonky.

sr20s14zenki
05-29-2010, 10:04 PM
Originally posted by rx7_turbo2


RA stuff is junk. Stock is best. Use stock seals, use stock gaskets including o rings. Don't mess with any of the aftermarket crap, don't let anyone tell you it's better than stock its not. Mazda has far more money into R&D than any of these rinky dink aftermarket companys in North America. Using all this aftermarket junk is just one more reason the rotary has gotten a bad rap here, stay away from it at all cost.

You can build a motor with used parts. If the used parts all check out within spec you can use them. Is new better? Yup. But a decent build can be done with used housings and rotors provided they check out. Again my motor was built with used rotors and housings and ALL stock parts, seals, gaskets etc, and it's held up fine for years now with decent HP numbers. Shit my Apex seals are the old 3 piece ones.

The best advice you've gotten is to measure everything then measure it again, build it slowly step by step. The Mazda factory service manual is good, but if you compare the english FSM to the japanese FSM you'll find there are differences;) Almost like the english version was "dumbed" down a bit, more likey some things didnt translate properly so they were omitted lol.

The first question to ask is how do I avoid blowing another motor once it's built. Clearly something in the tuning is gone wonky. Good to know, i didnt realize the factory stuff was so robust. Ive read alot of good about RA on the forums, but i dont have personal experience with them, im sure you do, so im going to believe you over anybody else haha. Anyhoo, ill just bow out of this one as i clearly dont know what im talking about :nut: :D

soloracer
05-29-2010, 10:08 PM
Originally posted by Toma
$1000!!!

Cant I just use all used parts? :eek: :nut:

Sure, just hang a bucket from the tailpipe at the next dyno pull. :devil:

rx7_turbo2
05-29-2010, 11:45 PM
Originally posted by soloracer


Sure, just hang a bucket from the tailpipe at the next dyno pull. :devil:


Hahaha that was good!

rx7_turbo2
05-30-2010, 12:04 AM
Originally posted by sr20s14zenki
Good to know, i didnt realize the factory stuff was so robust. Ive read alot of good about RA on the forums, but i dont have personal experience with them, im sure you do, so im going to believe you over anybody else haha. Anyhoo, ill just bow out of this one as i clearly dont know what im talking about :nut: :D

It kind of all goes back to that thing about info and technique not migrating from Japan. It seems to be that the prevailing understanding in Japan is that the motor as Mazda has designed it is a very capable and robust mill. Tuners there when faced with an issue looked upon tuning technique, and have developed a system that works reliably. North American's with the lack of knowledge went the other way and decided the problem wasnt their tuning, but instead was the stock rotary internals, and started making all these "patches" to fix problems that really werent engine problems in the first place. Take 3mm seals for instance. The notion of milling out a stock 2mm hardened edge for a non precise 3mm slot that is now unhardened seems completely retarded, yet every engine builder here for as long as I can remember has been forcing 3mm seals down everyone's throat claiming their the solution to all. Nonsense.

I'm no tuning guru nor am I any kind of rotary engine building expert. My experience has been that tuning a rotary is like building it. Meticulous. There's no room to play around. If you know your at the limits of your fuel pump, you can't play there, shut it down till a new pump arrives. You start seeing anything funny with your fuel delivery you shut it down, till you solve it. There is just no room to goof around, no "gee I hear some detonation I'll back off" its too late by then.

Toma
05-30-2010, 12:26 PM
Originally posted by rx7_turbo2




The first question to ask is how do I avoid blowing another motor once it's built. Clearly something in the tuning is gone wonky.

To be honest, I meant to push it right to the edge... Fidel that wired the EFI/LS1 coils and helped with the rest of the install, and was driving the car was shocked I was willing to push it right to the extreme. Everytime I upped timing, or pushed the split, or leaned it out he got nervous.

I did this with my old 5.0's. I pushed mine to the breaking point so I would know the limit for myself, and not have read it on some forum... hell, there were no forums back them lol. People can give me advice till they are blue in the face, and I may take their advice to heart, but in the end, if something does not makes sense to me, I will TRY IT anyway.... Ended up with the fastest stock shortblock 5.0 in North America.

The rotary/// We were cranking on it with af's into the 12's to see if it would blow.....

In the end, it did lose the rear seal, but I think only cause I fell asleep and didn't notice the fuel pump stopped keeping up when I turned the boost to 21 :thumbsup:

Funny, that's the only reason I lost the 5.0 in the Mustang... pump at the track lol.

In the end... did I learn anything?

A little... conventional rotary tuning wisdom is crap, and most of them know less than North American V8 tuners....

But I am sad that it failed not from too much power, boost, or a bad tune... but my own stupidity and lapse in attention as the fuel pump found its limit.

So in the end... what's gonna happen now? I'm gonna slap together a cheap motor, and push it till it fails from power or tune, and not something stupid.

Then I will build a 'good' motor, aim for 500 rwhp and 130+ mph trap speed, and I am good.

soloracer
05-30-2010, 06:01 PM
Originally posted by Toma


In the end... did I learn anything?

A little... conventional rotary tuning wisdom is crap, and most of them know less than North American V8 tuners....



What specifically is there in conventional rotary tuning wisdom that you consider to be crap?

tsi_neal
05-30-2010, 08:38 PM
Toma, care to share the timing and AFR values you were running?

Also when you load a car on the dyno for a 12 second pull its way different then loading it for a 20minute lapping session do you alter your tunes depending on use?

djfob
05-30-2010, 10:02 PM
curious which ebay WG did you use?

Toma
05-31-2010, 01:51 AM
Originally posted by djfob
curious which ebay WG did you use?

I have no idea, it was a 38mm or something with a BOV for like $80

Toma
05-31-2010, 01:55 AM
Originally posted by tsi_neal
Toma, care to share the timing and AFR values you were running?

Also when you load a car on the dyno for a 12 second pull its way different then loading it for a 20minute lapping session do you alter your tunes depending on use?

1) Not yet... maybe once I know what I am doing.

2) Not really. Generally, the tunes are similar, with compensations in place for ACT and ECT. However, if I know a customer wants every last bit out of it, and it's a drag race deal, then I may give her a little more of a ragged tune.

In my opinion, when I started this "build", there was one major flaw I saw in almost every rx7 I have ever looked at, and I rectified it. Whether it made a difference or not is yet to be seen.

Curious to see how far real pump gas will go. :thumbsup:

rx7_turbo2
06-24-2010, 03:54 PM
Updates?