View Full Version : 11:5:1 Comp. Type S Prelude Build

02-15-2009, 03:47 PM
Hey Beyond, I am a new member here and am currently building/restoring a 4th gen Prelude. I have posted this build on other websites but figure i would bring the build to this site as well. Here is what this build consists of -

Motor work:

.25 overbore H22a4
New OEM Type S 11:1 comp OS pistons
Balanced pistons/rods/crank/pressure plate/flywheel
New OEM OS rings
New OEM bearings
New OEM gaskets/seals/belts
New OEM water pump/ oil pump
KS balance shaft delete kit
Rebuilt H22a4 head (milled) .030
Ported, Polished, Deshrouded
5 angle valve job
New OEM valve seals/guides
New OEM valve train

Intake/Exhaust system:

Custom CAI with k&n filter
Skunk2 Pro series IM port matched to head and TB
Holley 68mm TB
Hytech Replica Header
3" full exhaust, no cat, no res, magnaflow highflow stealth muffler

Fuel Delievery:

Walbro 255 High flow fuel pump
RC 440cc injectors
Summit racing fuel filter kit
Marshall liquid filled FP gauge


Zex 35-100 shot Wet kit


eCtune or Hondata s300 (depends who tunes the car)

I am most likely flying Blake Barr from BBmoto Tuning (florida) to come tune the car. He specializes in H series tuning and is one of the moderators of Honda-tech. Very reputable guy, and has a great resume.

Alot more will be happening to the car including a full wire tuck, an engine bay shave, full repaint, some custom interior work, along with countless other things. The motor is just about to go to the machine shop for its work and then i will be assembling it shortly after.

I am in university so i don't have the most time in the world but try to keep updates coming. The car is currently just needing prep work before it is sent off to the body shop but seeing as it is way to cold to actually do any prep work i have to wait until spring for the weather to warm up. That or buy some space heaters, which i might do.

A final note, i know that this build could really use some cams and upgraded valvetrain but i do not have the funds for that just yet. Next winter the head will get a full upgrade and i'll be able to see what this motor can really produce.

Pictures will be in the next post.

02-15-2009, 03:57 PM
Pictures of the block when i first picked it up


The Cylinder wall turned out to be scarred :thumbsdow I originally intended to just do a stock block with cams but since i need to rebuild the block cams are now out of the question like i previously said (until next year)


The block being unassembled (i have an engine stand but did not use it at the time)



The Car itself



The engine bay


Starting the strip down





Starting the sanding down to shave the un-needed holes





02-15-2009, 04:06 PM
Damn Pruden, what is this your third lude now.

02-15-2009, 04:09 PM
Some rims i picked up off import concern



And some nice new tires to wrap them in


The head i will be using for this build.







More pictures and updates to come but thats all i feel like posting for now

02-15-2009, 04:10 PM
Originally posted by drsomebody
Damn Pruden, what is this your third lude now.

my 4th, 4th gen :thumbsup: freaking love these cars. Who is this?

02-15-2009, 04:49 PM
Yeah no kidding, your first one was clean. Angie told me you were about to sell it then some dude hit it. Any ideas what cams you are gonna go with.

02-15-2009, 05:03 PM
Oh shit, Andy?

Yah someone wrote it off the same hour i was driving to meet the guy with the money. As far as cams, i am going to either use Skunk2 pro 1's or pro 2's matched with skunk2 valvetrain. Like i said, can't afford it this spring since i am not working full-time but i will be picking them up in fall or winter.

02-15-2009, 05:08 PM
Nice project, I love 4th gens! Can't wait to see this come along..

02-15-2009, 06:30 PM
wow......looks great, its been awhile since someone has modded one of these in a while on beyond....

02-15-2009, 06:57 PM
looks great, keep it clean!

02-15-2009, 07:10 PM
Thanks guys, I know these builds are rare. Most likely due to the fact the second you want to work on the internals of these motors you start paying redic amounts of cash. The finished product should come out very nice and when on nitrous i should be able to dip into the mid 12's with some slicks.

02-15-2009, 07:20 PM
The Skunk2 pro2 will be a good choice especially with the high comp and a good tune:thumbsup:

02-15-2009, 07:23 PM
Yah with that high of compression, the head work, the complete intake and exhaust covered i will be able have very high (high for H series) N/A motor. It would be nice to have more displacement and stroke but i don't have the money to sleeve the block.

02-15-2009, 07:36 PM
Nice man, I love the 4th gen's..look SOOOO clean when done nicely:thumbsup:

02-15-2009, 09:22 PM
where did you get your tires.. Falken RT615?? i need some haha:D

02-15-2009, 10:20 PM
That they are, bought them off a friend.

02-15-2009, 10:45 PM
nice can't wait to see more progress, i've got a 4th gen myself so this will be interesting to see how your project goes, I might go the same way but like you I don't have the cash lol btw what color you have in mind for her?

02-15-2009, 11:12 PM
^ Good to hear, hopefully this inspires some people to make some more clean preludes. I am going to paint it that Lexus 350 dark grey. I still need to see look up the paint code.

02-15-2009, 11:28 PM
where did you get your machine work done? what were prices like?

02-15-2009, 11:40 PM
The head work was done by a shop in the states. I bought the bare head with the port and polish work already done off a senior member on honda-tech. As far as machine work for the block, that will be done by The Block Shop. Great guys there who know H22's. All the machine work (balancing/bore/jet washing etc) will be probably around $500-600. I am just waiting for my Type S pistons to arrive in the mail before i take it down to the shop. That will be sometime next week :)

02-15-2009, 11:59 PM
Great build, I can't wait to see the updates and ultimately the finished product!

02-16-2009, 01:11 AM
Originally posted by prudzzz
The head work was done by a shop in the states. I bought the bare head with the port and polish work already done off a senior member on honda-tech. As far as machine work for the block, that will be done by The Block Shop. Great guys there who know H22's. All the machine work (balancing/bore/jet washing etc) will be probably around $500-600. I am just waiting for my Type S pistons to arrive in the mail before i take it down to the shop. That will be sometime next week :)

cool, let me know how it goes...i have a couple b series that need some work

02-16-2009, 03:39 AM
Will do, it should go very well. The guy who is doing the machine work for me built my friends v8 and it is flawless. What really sold me over all the other shops is when i asked him about boreing a H22 he instantly knew that they required a special stone due to the FRM material and knew that they needed to be bored at a 60 degree angle in a cross pattern in a specific timing process. That is the first shop i have spoken to in all of Alberta that knew all of this information without me having to tell them. I'll definately be letting everyone know about them if everything turns out well.

02-16-2009, 02:06 PM
I did some port work the other day. My intake ports are ported to the exact size as the IM gasket. Just so you guys understand a bit better the stock IM gaskets are actually larger than the actual ports. Since the intake ports were matched to the oem gasket it it saved me a headache of having to match the gasket.

I had no screws to hold the gasket in place so i thought of a better idea. Since i am not using my pencils this week for school (reading week) i figured i would use them for something else haha.

Picture of me lining the gasket up


It turned out the pencils held the gasket in the perfect position and had zero play with the gasket. I was then able to use a welding pen to color the extra metal that i need to trim off.


A couple shots of the excess metal (it was like this on every runner of the Skunk2 IM)



Really bad quality but you get the idea of what needs to come off.


I managed to finish up 2 runners so far. The other 2 will be done later but it is really cold outside so i did not want to do anymore.

I finished the throttle body as well. I still need to do a slight touch up. I measured the port work to insure that it was 68mm all around and there was only on part that is still 67mm. I don't want any turbulance whatsoever coming from the intake side of things so measuring is important. Also for those curious the head was flow tested and the graph proved that it will show gains. However, i deleted my graph while cleaning photobucket a while ago so i don't have it to show you guys :(. I need to clean the part of the IM that is at 67mm but the battery was low and like i said, it is really cold.

here are some pictures for you guys of the port work for the throttle body. As you can see in the picture with the butterfly open there is small lip still (67mm area).




02-16-2009, 02:16 PM
I also did this a couple weeks ago. I picked up these JDM 1 piece chrome headlights that were beat to hell for $50 shipped from someone in the US. I was going to do a retro fit with TSX projectors but since i want to get the car running first i will do that in summer or fall.

Here is what i did with them.

JDM 1 pieces in chrome


Look how fucked those are!! Covered in tape residue and scratches, mostly scratches though. The guy must have cleaned his car with sandpaper.


Baked the headlights in the oven (375F for 5 min)


Taped off the reflector


First Coat


Second Coat



Lens Before


Lens During (sanded down with 1000 grit then 1200 grit under running water)


Lens After



Finished Product



Not bad for only $50 plus $20 for the wax, towel, paint, and sandpaper.

02-16-2009, 02:21 PM
looks fantastic man I might steal that technique to do my headlights soon!

02-16-2009, 02:29 PM
Thanks and feel free to. This thread is going to include some great Tech so that everyone who likes preludes or H22's can take something useful from it. There is only one thing i am not going to explain how to make and thats because i want it to be a custom piece only i have :thumbsup:

02-16-2009, 02:36 PM
wow man really good work on the lights, and the wire tuck is forsure a nice mod on a prelude, my parents have one and man, is it ever cluttered in there. keep the updates commin!

02-16-2009, 02:54 PM
Yah, it will kick some serious ass in a prelude. There are only a handful that even have wire tucks done to them. Even fewer that have actual engine bay shaves done to them. I can think of only 3 (2 5th gens, 1 4th gen) with actual shaves and less than ten with actual harness tucks. Thats all i can think of off honda-tech, preludepower, preludeonline, socalprelude and absoluteprelude. Pretty much the majority of prelude sites and thats how few there are.

The engine bay on these cars are brutal but with my abs deleted (meaning custom hardlines), the evap and egr, cruise control, power steering, resistor box, air conditioning all deleted, the battery and fusebox relocated, my front motor mount removed (i have upgraded 75a mounts), and a civic half rad, this engine bay is going to be empty!

02-17-2009, 08:41 PM
Looking damn good Adam!! I am glad to see it coming along, even though I was still hoping for the mild turbo build! Makes me wanna get working on my second set of jdm's as well! I just wish I could drive the car too, but damn snow and crappy roads up here!

02-17-2009, 11:39 PM
^ Thanks, i would have enjoyed the turbo build as well but i think this will be alot better for daily driving and will get me better times at the track as well.

A little update for you guys. My day was going good and got alot better when the mail man showed up. Got my Hytech Replica header in the mail today. Sexyyyyyy




02-21-2009, 10:45 PM
I never got around to tearing apart the suspension like i originally planned mainly due to wanting to get as many hours in at my job while on my break. Most nights i was to tired to work on the car and to top it off my friend did not want to go to his shop so i pretty much just focused on smaller tasks.

I got the a bit more done on the engine bay. Just need to take the clutch master out and cut the fuel filter off.


One of the big things i was happy about with this car was not having to deal with the wiring mess like my last shell....after i took the dash apart i soon realized it was way worse than my last one. An alarm, aftermarket sound wiring, sat. radio and countless zip ties and so much electrical tape everywhere made me suddenly hate this car lol. I got most of it taken care of though. Onces every wire is seperated i'll clean it up and make a proper harness for them.


Finally got my motor on the engine stand


Started taking it apart



02-22-2009, 12:50 AM
so what progress did you make after i left your house today man?

02-22-2009, 01:26 AM
All the above progress, you made me stop with your lack of help.

02-23-2009, 11:39 PM
Finished up stripping the motor down tonight. It's finally ready for the machine shop. I'll probably drop it off some time next week. New bearings and rings still need to be ordered but i am not sure when that will be happening. I stumbled upon a great deal on a set of JDM ITR DC2 recaros at a nearby shop and i really want to get them so we will see which comes first lol.

Bearing cap popped off


A shot of a few of the bearings


I forgot to snap a picture after i took the cap off of the motor. After the cap was off i took a 13mm socket wrench and removed the rod bolts. After i did that i removed the bolts holding the balance shafts in place. A 12mm and 10mm socket was required.


Once i lifted the crank out i had to remove 14 of these little 8mm bolts and then i slid the pistons out.


Shot of all the little pieces, crank, rod/pistons etc.


Shot of the block after everything was removed (still need to remove the bearings :p)


And the final shot of the night :)


More to come guys!

02-24-2009, 05:16 AM
Looking great! nice job on those head lights! I did the same thing with my old DSM

02-24-2009, 04:27 PM
Thanks, it was a pain in the ass imo and i almost would have preferred to just spend the extra $200 for ones already done.

02-25-2009, 07:40 PM
Called up my machine shop today and discussed prices. It turns out i need to save a bit more money for my work to be done. The guy who is building my motor built my friends motor and it runs flawless so i completely trust him, as well he knew every answer (correct ones at that) about the H22 motors which only made me that much more content.

Anyway, we discussed the pricing and these are what i am looking at

$400 for balancing (pistons, rods, crank, flywheel and some other stuff)
$150-200 for the over bore
$95 for a helicoil on a broken bolt, vac test on the head, measurement on the mill.
$25 for jet washing the block
$25 per rod for shotpeening (he said something else but i missed it)
$150 for a crank regrind, polish etc
$XXX cost of bearings (he will order them for me based on measurements during this work)

I am looking at about $1200 so i won't be dropping it off for about a month. It was a little bit more than i expected but i am not worried about it. I don't want to do this wrong. I questioned him about the balancing being $400 since i have been told $150-200 and he explained that alot of shops do incorrect balancing and throughly explained what happens at some shops that charge less and why it costs more at his shop. For the amount of time it takes it does seem fair. Like i said, he did amazing work on my friends motor and my friends dad is actually this guys good friend so i do trust him.

I'll keep you guys posted but i think this will be the last update for a while.

03-04-2009, 05:22 PM
Last night i picked up a new tool from Canadian Tire and an accessorie kit from Sears. $50 for the Dremel and $25 for the kit, not to bad if you ask me.



After i got back from my friends i started getting the runners finished up. They came out great! A perfect port match to the gasket which means a perfect port match to the head. I am going to take the intake manifold to the machine shop and have them bore out the throttle body port so that it is perfectly smooth and matched to the nearest mm of the throttle body.





Moar to come guys.

03-16-2009, 10:42 PM
Today after a long day of studying i decided that the few hours i had to rest i would put towards my wiring harnesses. I started doing my headlight harnesses today. Stopped by a Princess Auto to look for wire loom, heat shrink, zip ties, and a few other misc things. Sadly, they did not have the wire loom i was looking for so i did not purchase anything yet.

Tonight i unplugged the passanger and driver side headlight harnesses and started pulling the old wire loom and electrical tape mess apart. I just used a knife too cut everything apart (carefully) and then some painters tape to temporarly label everything. my Helms did not really come in much use this time around like the last time i did the harnesses. I now do not remember what a couple of plugs are for and the Helms fails to have the wire colours for the plugs, just numbers and a picture that is difficult to read since not all harnesses (for example this one) were identical. By that, i mean that where the main harness would branch off into 3 sections lets say, and their lengths would be obvious to find the labelled numbers, this harness would brand off in 2 and have another single branch off. That probably made very little sense but whatever. If anybody knows of a file on the net floating around with the wire colour diagrams please let me know, i could really use it. Other wise i have to find someone with a lude to let me look at their harnesses.

Here are some pictures i took tonight. Once i figure out which connectors i can get rid of i'll show in detail how to remove the pins and properly remove the connector. At that point i'll go buy the heat shrink, loom etc and show once again in detail how to use the stuff to make a custom harness :)

Harnesses with all the old tape and loom


Both harnesses stripped


Passanger side


Driver side


More to come guys/girls!