Scuffs, swirls and more

[RecoilS14]

I just moved to calgary and want to get my truck detailed and the scuff/swirl/light scratches in the clear coat buffed out and fixed.

Can anyone recommend some good shops that dont charge out the ass? Im in the SW.

[2EFNFAST]

Just as a word of caution, a lot of times you do get what you pay for in detailing.

Most "professional" places will just wash it, apply some type of silicone glaze to hide the swirls, then wax it. Sure, shiney shiney now, but in a few weeks the swirls will come back as the glaze fades. ..... that's the reason I learned how to detail myself, didn't see any point in paying somebody $2-300 for a half-assed job.

Proper correction would be

wash
claybar
re-wash
aggressive polish
(milder polish depending on aggressive you had to go to remove scuffs&swirls)
seal
wax
(and then your interior detailing, windows, etc...)

Which is a good 10-30hrs of work depending on how bad the paint is.

[Ichigo]

Originally posted by 2EFNFAST
Just as a word of caution, a lot of times you do get what you pay for in detailing.

Most "professional" places will just wash it, apply some type of silicone glaze to hide the swirls, then wax it. Sure, shiney shiney now, but in a few weeks the swirls will come back as the glaze fades. ..... that's the reason I learned how to detail myself, didn't see any point in paying somebody $2-300 for a half-assed job.

Proper correction would be

wash
claybar
re-wash
aggressive polish
(milder polish depending on aggressive you had to go to remove scuffs&swirls)
seal
wax
(and then your interior detailing, windows, etc...)

Which is a good 10-30hrs of work depending on how bad the paint is.

Dont you usually wax before you seal?

[FishPoo]

I would probably do the sealant, then the wax.

[NewLextasy]

Originally posted by RecoilS14
I just moved to calgary and want to get my truck detailed and the scuff/swirl/light scratches in the clear coat buffed out and fixed.

Can anyone recommend some good shops that dont charge out the ass? Im in the SW.

CALL Refine Automotive
403-301-0222

BEST Polishers/detailers in the city and they charge a very very resonable rate.

Tell them SRauto sent you

[2EFNFAST]

Originally posted by Ichigo


Dont you usually wax before you seal?

I always seal w/ optimum poli-seal then wax with pinnacle sovereign w/ polycharger, since the sealer usually lasts longer.

[Eibbus]

I've just started doing my own polishing. The only products I've used so far is the meguiars claybar kit and the meguiars 3 step ( clean , polish, wax ).

I have a pretty decent orbital polisher already, but im wondering about this sealant stuff.

My first question is about the clay bar process.
How much spray do you need to use as you pass the claybar over an area? I always get a little worried when the clay starts to grab against the paint. Should the surface you are clay barring have a wet layer of spray on it so the clay glides across? and how hard should you be pressing on the clay?

Secondly is the meguiars 3 step a decent product to use to remove swirls on black paint? Do i need something with a better cut to it?

and thirdly
What brand sealant would you guys recommend? I've never used a sealant before. Is it best to seal before waxing?

Cheers.

[DonJuan]

Originally posted by 2EFNFAST
Just as a word of caution, a lot of times you do get what you pay for in detailing.

Most "professional" places will just wash it, apply some type of silicone glaze to hide the swirls, then wax it. Sure, shiney shiney now, but in a few weeks the swirls will come back as the glaze fades. ..... that's the reason I learned how to detail myself, didn't see any point in paying somebody $2-300 for a half-assed job.

Proper correction would be

wash
claybar
re-wash
aggressive polish
(milder polish depending on aggressive you had to go to remove scuffs&swirls)
seal
wax
(and then your interior detailing, windows, etc...)

Which is a good 10-30hrs of work depending on how bad the paint is.

Which Products do you use? I usually just go buy whatever I've seen on TV. Or whatever has a cool bottle. Cuz I'm a lemming.

[2EFNFAST]

Originally posted by DonJuan


Which Products do you use? I usually just go buy whatever I've seen on TV. Or whatever has a cool bottle. Cuz I'm a lemming.

I buy all my stuff from autogeek.net

For really hardcore polishing I typically use either Meguiar's 105 or Menzerna PowerGloss

For slightly milder polishing I use Menzerna Super Intesive Polish

Then for lighter polishing either Menzerna 106 or 1z High Gloss

For sealant/bit of wax I like optimum poli-seal

And then for waxing liquid pinnacle soverign with polycharger (the polycharger extends the life of the wax from like 3weeks to 4 or 5months or so from what I've seen)

As an example (I like to grab used bumpers and polish them to test out my skills and different products), here's a taped off panel, half done. (hopefully you can see a) big difference.

Was done with a cyclo, orange pad/SIP, white/106, white/wax

before:
http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww89/efnfast/blue1.jpg

after:
http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww89/efnfast/blue2.jpg

50 done/50not done:

http://i708.photobucket.com/albums/ww89/efnfast/blue3.jpg


Originally posted by Eibbus
I've just started doing my own polishing. The only products I've used so far is the meguiars claybar kit and the meguiars 3 step ( clean , polish, wax ).

I have a pretty decent orbital polisher already, but im wondering about this sealant stuff.

My first question is about the clay bar process.
How much spray do you need to use as you pass the claybar over an area? I always get a little worried when the clay starts to grab against the paint. Should the surface you are clay barring have a wet layer of spray on it so the clay glides across?

Secondly is the meguiars 3 step a decent product to use to remove swirls on black paint? Do i need something with a better cut to it?

and thirdly
What brand sealant would you guys recommend? I've never used a sealant before. Is it best to seal before waxing?

Cheers.

be generous with the clay lube. once you've finished up the bottle (or come to 1/4 of it), add water to it to dilute what's left and extend its life. Can't really tell you how much to use, but there's nothign wrong to be generous with it.

When I clay, typically I'll wash the car, not dry it, and go right to claying (with lube)

The clay will glide across a clean surface (remember, no pressure!); on a contaminated surface it will catch and grab and pull out the particulates. If you've never clayed the vehicle before, you probably want to be constantly kneeding the clay; on a previously clayed one, probably only need to kneed it after every panel.

Being able to remove swirls will depend a lot on your buffer (not all are created equal), pad choice, and product choice.

i found that most o fthe stuff you find in the store isn't really all that great. If you do research on detailing sites like autopia.org, you can see all the other product lines out there, like Meguiars 80, 83, 95, 105, 205. (good luck finding those at canadian tire, heh!)

[Eibbus]

be generous with the clay lube. once you've finished up the bottle (or come to 1/4 of it), add water to it to dilute what's left and extend its life. Can't really tell you how much to use, but there's nothign wrong to be generous with it.

When I clay, typically I'll wash the car, not dry it, and go right to claying (with lube)

The clay will glide across a clean surface (remember, no pressure!); on a contaminated surface it will catch and grab and pull out the particulates. If you've never clayed the vehicle before, you probably want to be constantly kneeding the clay; on a previously clayed one, probably only need to kneed it after every panel.

Being able to remove swirls will depend a lot on your buffer (not all are created equal), pad choice, and product choice.

i found that most o fthe stuff you find in the store isn't really all that great. If you do research on detailing sites like autopia.org, you can see all the other product lines out there, like Meguiars 80, 83, 95, 105, 205. (good luck finding those at canadian tire, heh!) [/B]

Nice work on that bumper hehe!

I actually bought my polisher from autogeek last summer. A makita 9227 along with the pad set from them ( i think i have 2 orange, 2 blue, 2 white, a black and a grey ).

But as far as product went i cheaped out and just bought that meguairs set from crappy tire. Last year it did a pretty good job of removing the swirls i had, however my wax only lasted maybe a month or so. This polycharger stuff sounds interesting. Is it available locally?

Is a sealant applied with an orbital as well or by hand?

[Wraith]

Originally posted by Eibbus


Nice work on that bumper hehe!

I actually bought my polisher from autogeek last summer. A makita 9227 along with the pad set from them ( i think i have 2 orange, 2 blue, 2 white, a black and a grey ).

But as far as product went i cheaped out and just bought that meguairs set from crappy tire. Last year it did a pretty good job of removing the swirls i had, however my wax only lasted maybe a month or so. This polycharger stuff sounds interesting. Is it available locally?

Is a sealant applied with an orbital as well or by hand?

You're using a rotary and you're just starting out? :eek: I suppose if you had good results last time you have a decent handle over one.

I don't know of any local polycharger suppliers, it looks like its only online (autogeek, autopia).

A sealant is basically a wax but synthetic and lasts longer. Arguably, sealants leave a more "sterile" and shiny look to paint versus the deep, wet, warm glow of carnauba waxes, hence why many apply sealant first (protection) then top it off with a nuba wax for looks. Sealants can be applied by hand or machine, I prefer by hand as I find pads waste product.

[2EFNFAST]

Originally posted by Eibbus


Nice work on that bumper hehe!

I actually bought my polisher from autogeek last summer. A makita 9227 along with the pad set from them ( i think i have 2 orange, 2 blue, 2 white, a black and a grey ).

But as far as product went i cheaped out and just bought that meguairs set from crappy tire. Last year it did a pretty good job of removing the swirls i had, however my wax only lasted maybe a month or so. This polycharger stuff sounds interesting. Is it available locally?

Is a sealant applied with an orbital as well or by hand?

i apply everything (polish, wax, sealent) with my cyclo and buff off by hand.

I used to think polycharger was just a gimmick, but then I tried it. The regular pinnacle soverign lasted like 3-4weeks tops. Their newer version with the polyboost lasts several months. I was quite impressed.

You can add your own polycharger to your own waxes (I believe you can anyways since it's just another chemical compound) but I'm lazy and buy the ones with it already pre-mixed in.

[Eibbus]

Originally posted by Wraith


You're using a rotary and you're just starting out? :eek: I suppose if you had good results last time you have a decent handle over one.

I don't know of any local polycharger suppliers, it looks like its only online (autogeek, autopia).

A sealant is basically a wax but synthetic and lasts longer. Arguably, sealants leave a more "sterile" and shiny look to paint versus the deep, wet, warm glow of carnauba waxes, hence why many apply sealant first (protection) then top it off with a nuba wax for looks. Sealants can be applied by hand or machine, I prefer by hand as I find pads waste product.

lol. I made sure i did all the research on how to use it properly before doing it last year. I also practiced on our old car first. Its pretty dummy proof. The makita is really easy to use.

Thanks for the clarification on the sealant.