Mobil 1 extended performance 25000 km

[mugenmclude]

M1ep claims 25000km oil and filter changes.Anyone using this? Figured I'd try it soon. Opinions?

Update.

Me and a freind decided to try motomaster synthetic,after a week of researching sites like bob is the oil guy. Both will be using either champion,pure1,puralator or wix oil filters. . Wich for the price($20 for 4.4L) im sure its better than the drive through penz oil and quaker dino oil i put in.

I will still change my oil every 7000km as per the manual or when the oil gets dirty,wich ever comes 1st.

Same thing for him.

95 civic lx 284,xxxkm
05 civic Reverb 96,xxx km (will switch @ 100,000 km)

[Ven]

Yes, used for 1 year and 13,000+kms. Sample tested fine. Wouldn't recommend doing that on a FRAM or any other budget filter though.

[2BLUE]

Thats a long time...:(

[FiveFreshFish]

I'm running regular Mobil 0W40 to 10,000 km. I feel that's a bit too long.

[Ven]

If you're not sure about how far your oil change interval can go, then get a sample test done at http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ For years I've wasted tons of perfectly good synthetic oils that aren't even anywhere close to being depleted.

[sugoi240]

It sounds like Amsoil, 25,000 miles.
They have the same rating, but it is marked as for unmodified and regular running fueled cars.

I still change about 4000 regardless
Oil is cheap, engine rebuilds, not.

[bmeier]

IMO I personally think running to 25 000 km is a bit much but you can definitely go above 10 000 - 15 000 km.

It is a complete waste of oil to be changing it every 4000 km and it makes no sense.

[sugoi240]

I agree, you don't need to change that often.
I do change when it gets dirty which is about 4000-5000
for myself. Mind you I only do 2 oil changes a year on my car.

The key word is unmodified cars. 96 D21 truck 8,000km

[Alak]

I'll go until the colour starts to change, usually 6000-7000.



I used to run Shell Rotella T 15w-40 Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil, but I switched back to Mobil 1 10w30. It was a little hard on the starter in the colder mornings.

[alloroc]

Maybe when the warranty is up I might do that in my wife's Yaris but in the Subaru I think I will stay with the recommended intervals - even though I have had zero problems to date something about pistons with no piston skirts makes me nervous.

[Zero102]

I have always been an advocate of oil sampling and changes based on need, not always as a function of mileage. Another thing worth considering (and is usually more accurate than mileage) is to change your oil based on the number of hours the engine has been run.

On my last couple cars I have always run synthetic oil and it is amazing just how long good oils last. In the TDI I ran Elf (total quartz) 505.01 and 507.00 oils and I didn't do the first sampling until 16,000km. The earliest one I had to change was at 24,000km when it finally showed 70ppm of iron in the sample, but one went as long as 31,000km before showing 70ppm (which is still very low). Every oil change still showed a nice high TBN and the other wear metals were always low so I know the oil was still doing its job. I was going to add a bypass filter and see if I could go 50,000km on a change, but for the cost involved there would have been no return on the investment for 200,000km.

In my latest car I have only driven the car 6000km, but once the warranty is up I will be doing UOA and need-based oil changes again. I suspect 15,000-20,000km will be the optimal interval.

The mobil1 claim does not sound that unreasonable. Synthetic oils are capable of going 25,000km between changes under normal conditions, although it should be mentioned that Mobil 1 is a group III oil and may not be suitable for a full 25,000km. I would at least recommend sampling every 5000km starting at 10,000km for the first 2 OCI's.

Last but not least, don't use a fram filter if you are going longer than 5000km between changes, in fact, just don't use a fram filter at all.

[FiveFreshFish]

Originally posted by Zero102
I have always been an advocate of oil sampling and changes based on need, not always as a function of mileage.

Where do you get your oil sampled and how much does it cost?

[rc2002]

I clicked on that blackstone labs link and it's $22.50US for a standard analysis. Plus you have to ship the sample to them and wait.

I would rather put that money towards an oil change instead. Canadian Tire has Mobil 1 Extended Performance for less than $40/jug. Standard Mobil 1 5W30 is under $35/jug.

[GQBalla]

Originally posted by FiveFreshFish


Where do you get your oil sampled and how much does it cost?


Originally posted by Ven
If you're not sure about how far your oil change interval can go, then get a sample test done at http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ For years I've wasted tons of perfectly good synthetic oils that aren't even anywhere close to being depleted.

[Ven]

Originally posted by richardchan2002
I clicked on that blackstone labs link and it's $22.50US for a standard analysis. Plus you have to ship the sample to them and wait.

I would rather put that money towards an oil change instead. Canadian Tire has Mobil 1 Extended Performance for less than $40/jug. Standard Mobil 1 5W30 is under $35/jug.

You don't sample each time, only up until the point where the oil shows depletion or time interval expirey. For one of my cars I now know I can run 1 year or 13,000kms with a large safety margin included. Likely I can run quite a bit farther than 13,000kms but I follow the 1 year limit and change it every December.

So now I pay $47 a year for an oil change on this car using a top shelf filter and premium synthetic oil. Look at BMWs oil change service intervals. Do they have magic engines? 3 month /5000kms oil changes is the biggest farce rip off in the industry and the advertising further propagates the habit.

It's REALLY hard to convince people otherwise. Lots of push back about oil being cheaper than rebuilding, or how hard the car is run, or I love my car too much, or I'll void my warranty, etc, etc.

[Ven]

Originally posted by Zero102
The mobil1 claim does not sound that unreasonable. Synthetic oils are capable of going 25,000km between changes under normal conditions, although it should be mentioned that Mobil 1 is a group III oil and may not be suitable for a full 25,000km. I would at least recommend sampling every 5000km starting at 10,000km for the first 2 OCI's.

Last but not least, don't use a fram filter if you are going longer than 5000km between changes, in fact, just don't use a fram filter at all.

GIII shouldn't matter so long as the add pack is correct for the application. Still debatable on whether M1 and M1EP is GIII or GIV. Need an Exxon blending engineer to put that to rest once and for all haha.

100% on never using the Fram oil filters. Again, marketing at it best.

[rc2002]

Originally posted by Ven


You don't sample each time, only up until the point where the oil shows depletion or time interval expirey. For one of my cars I now know I can run 1 year or 13,000kms with a large safety margin included. Likely I can run quite a bit farther than 13,000kms but I follow the 1 year limit and change it every December.

So now I pay $47 a year for an oil change on this car using a top shelf filter and premium synthetic oil. Look at BMWs oil change service intervals. Do they have magic engines? 3 month /5000kms oil changes is the biggest farce rip off in the industry and the advertising further propagates the habit.

It's REALLY hard to convince people otherwise. Lots of push back about oil being cheaper than rebuilding, or how hard the car is run, or I love my car too much, or I'll void my warranty, etc, etc.

I don't think you can extrapolate that 13000km interval across the entire life of the vehicle. You will probably need more frequent oil changes as the engine gets older and more impurities show up in the oil from mileage related wear and tear.

[Ven]

Usually wear metals trace less and less the older an engine gets if consistantely maintained in the same fashion every time. Lots of 300k+ kms gas engines out there that sample the same each time. Regardless I'll be re-sampling this year (2nd) because I like to plot results.

[sugoi240]

For new car warranty purposes, do change at the intervals
listed, keep the receipts.

If any mechanical problems occur, you can prove you did
regular maintenance, if you don't change your oil at
the recommend times, you can void your car warranty.

You don't need to change oil at the dealership, just proof
you followed the manual. You can save money on oil after.

For most people, 1year and 25,000 are the same.
Most people put 25,000 on their car a year.

[Zero102]

Originally posted by FiveFreshFish


Where do you get your oil sampled and how much does it cost?

There is a company in the NE near the airport named Metro Tech, they do my sampling for me. It is nice to take it somewhere local (and not pay shipping) :)


As for the warranty comment, during the warranty period of ANY car, make sure you always change the oil at the specified interval and keep receipts, that is the first thing that will come in to question at any sign of engine troubles. After the warranty period is when my advice applies. And there is no set mileage number for any car out there, the only way to know for sure the best time to change your oil is by performing UOA.

[Inzane]

Originally posted by Zero102
although it should be mentioned that Mobil 1 is a group III oil

No, Mobil 1 is a group IV PAO basestock.

This has been verified by a fellow z club member here who works for a local company that does oil analysis.

[mugenmclude]

According to Bob is the oil guy. Mobil 1 switched it's formula last year. They are not a PAO base and are now a group 3 oil. I was all set to try it but seems like bs. Thay also use a dino crude oil as a carrier additive.

[Zero102]

Originally posted by Inzane


No, Mobil 1 is a group IV PAO basestock.

This has been verified by a fellow z club member here who works for a local company that does oil analysis.

Links?

[narou]

I have started using 15w50 Full Synthetic Mobil1 with a Wix filter. It says racing formula or for race bred motors i think on the bottle. Very impressed so far.. I checked my oil and it looked like it had gotten cleaner then when I put it in :P!

[heavyD]

Originally posted by mugenmclude
According to Bob is the oil guy. Mobil 1 switched it's formula last year. They are not a PAO base and are now a group 3 oil. I was all set to try it but seems like bs. Thay also use a dino crude oil as a carrier additive.

You mean Bob. The expert that works for a competitor of M1? Hell even Amsoil notes that M1 EP is PAO. Bottom line is that he and all the Amsoil Oil Bible thumpers are as credible as OJ Simpson. Unless the test is independant it's completely and totally useless to the consumer.

[alloroc]

Originally posted by mugenmclude
According to Bob is the oil guy. Mobil 1 switched it's formula last year. They are not a PAO base and are now a group 3 oil. I was all set to try it but seems like bs. Thay also use a dino crude oil as a carrier additive.

You have to be careful with his reviews. The air filter ones are pretty unbiased. His oil stuff is kinda slanted towards amsoil since he sells the stuff.

Edit ... doh: heavyD pretty much covered it.

[mugenmclude]

I just googled m 1 again and alot of threads about it's not a pao base stock and it uses a carrier oil.


Here is a big read. http://www.synlube.com/synthetic.htm

[heavyD]

Originally posted by mugenmclude
I just googled m 1 again and alot of threads about it's not a pao base stock and it uses a carrier oil.


Here is a big read. http://www.synlube.com/synthetic.htm

Again Synlube picks on mostly Mobil as everyone does because they are the top dog but you notice they also say Amsoil also isn't fully synthetic but their Synlube is. When you go to the Amsoil site they say they are not only 100% synthectic but the best you can buy. Who do you believe when everyone says everyone else is a liar? I believe independant testing and until a truly independant, reputable source shows some testing data to back up all these claims of who's the best and who's 100% synthetic I'll stick with the company that spends billions of dollars in research, facilities, and processing over the garage made synthetic brands such as Synlube, Royal Purple, Amsoil, etc.

People really have to stop thinking of synthetic motor oil as some miracle lubricant. Synthetic Oil doesn't prevent engine failure and it's been proven that properly maintained engines can run well over 500,000 miles on simple dyno oil.

[Xtrema]

Doesn't BMW's "free" schedule maintenance only replace oil every 20K?

[mugenmclude]

So Heavy D. Is your opinion that synthetic oil,either a blend or PAO based,is not better than a basic dino oil.

I was under the impression that as a lubricant synthetic is.

[heavyD]

Originally posted by mugenmclude
So Heavy D. Is your opinion that synthetic oil,either a blend or PAO based,is not better than a basic dino oil.

I was under the impression that as a lubricant synthetic is.

Synthetics have advantages such as better flow at lower temp, better protection at high engine temps, and protect for longer intervals. It's debateable whether a daily driven engine needs that extra degree of protection if you are sticking to recommended service intervals. I've never put synthetic oil in any of my wifes vehicles and we've never had any issues with her vehicles. One thing I've always found is that her vehicles never consume oil where I've tried various synthetics on all my vehicles over the years and have had consumption issues with brands such as Amsoil, Royal Purple, and on Honda engines much more consumption with any synthetic brand.

[alloroc]

Originally posted by heavyD


Synthetics have advantages such as better flow at lower temp, better protection at high engine temps, and protect for longer intervals. It's debateable whether a daily driven engine needs that extra degree of protection if you are sticking to recommended service intervals. I've never put synthetic oil in any of my wifes vehicles and we've never had any issues with her vehicles. One thing I've always found is that her vehicles never consume oil where I've tried various synthetics on all my vehicles over the years and have had consumption issues with brands such as Amsoil, Royal Purple, and on Honda engines much more consumption with any synthetic brand.

Honestly I have noticed the same thing. I don't think there are issues with protection - when I have pulled the bearing caps off the bearings looked perfect but I have had issues with egr's and blowby on some older 4 cyl engines on synthetic maybe it is a bit thinner at higher temps as well?

[Zero102]

When it comes to synthetics the one thing that would matter in a climate like ours is the lower pour point and better cold flow characteristics. I agree that basing your oil choice on additive packages over base stocks is a reasonable thing to do. I mean, compare a supermarket brand synthetic oil (even one that is PAO base) to castrol syntec (which is group III and has a wicked additive package) and it is clear, that simply choosing an oil on its base stock is not enough.

I was under the impression Mobil 1 went to a Group III base stock. That said, do I care? Not really, does it influence my choice? Not at all.
Mobil puts together an excellent additive package, so does Amsoil and so do many of the other leading oil manufacturers / distributors.

The biggest 2 things that limit an oil's service life are:
Viscosity
Total base number

If either of these is out of spec (too thin/thick or TBN is too low) then you will see wear rates accelerate. Obviously this is a bad thing. If both of these are kept in check an oil will continue to protect as well as when it is new (aside from wear metal accumulation or contamination such as soot, which will eventually become significant factors).

Mobil 1, Amsoil, and many others manage to keep both their viscosity in range and their TBN sufficiently high for distances approaching or exceeding 25,000km. It all depends on the engine and the driving however, and I can't say this enough, never run an oil for 25,000km without performing UOA.

[D. Dub]

Originally posted by Ven


3 month /5000kms oil changes is the biggest farce rip off in the industry and the advertising further propagates the habit.


:thumbsup: