head bolt tool

[Redlyne_jr]

Alright long story short my engine is disassembled i have ARP head studs and bolts anyone else have a similar setup as i don't have the right tool to get the head bolts out.. anyone else have this tool that i can borrow??

[stevo 27]

wait you lost me so are you trying to get the ARP studs out or are you trying to get the OE bolts out

OE bolts are a torxs head you can go to princess auto for cheap
for the studs double nut them and pull it out

[Redlyne_jr]

i already have a set of ARP headstuds installed.. trying to get the head off.. for some reason i cant get the nuts off.. or what size is the head nuts on the ARP set because my 12point 10mm and 12point 12mm wouldn't fit in because of the casting almost like i need a thin walled 12point 12mm or 10mm..

[legendboy]

deep 3/8" drive 12 point?

[Redlyne_jr]

tried it didnt fit..

[stevo 27]

grind down the wall of the socket?? sockets are cheap

sorry i thought you were trying to remove the studs from the block

[Redlyne_jr]

with some searching around i was able to get one off of our Snap-ON Rep :).. head came off today looks crazy to have such an empty engine bay.. pics to come ;)

[mr2mike]

Sorry, I didn't see this till now or I would have lent you mine. I had to go out and buy the right socket set for this when I ran into the same issue with headbolt retorquing. It's a job that you NEED the right tool or you'll regret it. With the torque you're puttin on those studs.

THis is worth reading while you're doing the head studs. People don't understand how important these headstuds are to the overall function of the engine.


http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/1126/perfect_engine_sealing_starts_with_proper_head_bolt_use.aspx

edit: changed link so you don't need to log on. Thanks for the heads up allroc.

[Redlyne_mr2]

Nice info Mike.

[alloroc]

you have to log in but that is a great website..

[Redlyne_jr]

awesome writeup mike, are you running arp studs than? Did you re-torque your arp studs after break in? How many km's did you wait/ put on the car? Would u recommend re-using my ARP headstuds?

[mr2mike]

Yes you can re-torque ARP's. OEM ones you can't retorque.

Yes I retorqued after engine break in at 500miles (about 1000kms) then again at 1,000miles (about 2000kms).

I need to do it again here. It's getting tiresome but I know it can prevent head lift and broken headgaskets.

I've got a metal headgasket in there too. When you do the retorque:
-I just back one stud off at a time. Not fully out but about 3 turn off. Do one at a time to prevent headgasket movement.

-Make sure the stud is still bottomed out into the block nothing too tight, I'm guessing 15ft/lbs or something really light. (hex tool needed) The stud doesn't hold it together but having it bottom out ensures that you're doing it per spec.

Then get the washer on, then the stud. Lubricate the whole area to make sure the torquing force isn't taken up in friction on the turning. Otherwise you get more twisting torque. Not good. Just keep oiling it up as you go, all around the washer, under it and over the stud. They suggest some sort of ARP moly lube. Basically you don't want to float the nut on a pool of oil or it doesn't torque to spec.

Torque it up to spec and then back the next one off. Try to do it in order that they say in the BGB in an alternating sides/top/bottom fashion.

[gregrego]

I also re torqued to 70 ft lbs after break in period (600km i went)

I use my 12 point Snapon 12 mm socket, all snapon sockets have very thin walls.

And the oem's are NOT torq. If you try a torq you will likely break the socket in the head of the stud, or round out the stud. There is a proper tool sold by snap on, and napa that will do the trick. All I had to say to my snapon dealer was "Toyota head stud socket" and he brought the exact one to my house for $35. It's a 12 point BI-HEX socket for future reference.

[Redlyne_mr2]

Any idea what the damage is Rhys?

[Redlyne_jr]

Originally posted by Redlyne_mr2
Any idea what the damage is Rhys?

haha you may laugh at this, anyways im under my car i have taken the timing belt cover off and a screw falls down and hits me in the face.. 10 seconds later a larger piece of metal does the same thing.. the timing belt tensioner.. LOL :cry: somehow it looks like the timing belt tensioner loosened itself and wasn't even held in place from what it looks like happened so my first guess is that the timing belt lost all tension and probably jumped a tooth or two, so anyways i dug a little deeper got the head off last night hit everything with brake clean and their are absolutely no marks in the piston at all from the valves their was a small amount of carbon scratched off the piston but their was also like 2mm of carbon on top of the pistons same thing with the intake valves small amount of carbon scratched off, so i pulled some strings this morning got my head off into a machine shop bright and early this morning they are going to do a check on the head make sure the valves really aren't bent.. leak down and than hot tank it clean everything up.. machine it if necessary.. the only shitty thing is i broke some other shit in the mean time getting everything off my fuel pressure gauge tapped into the wolfkatz rail snapped flush so i have to get it extracted out and or helicoiled.. :( other than that im just waiting on..

ATS we will see if express post is really worth the extra money:rolleyes:

the goal is to get her back together for Driven so we will see how it turns out..

[Redlyne_jr]

update all the intake valves are pooched so what i suspected but had to be sure..

[Redlyne_jr]

so just to confirm bottom the head stud out in the block.. 15ftlbs or so followed by 65Ftlbs and 70 after the break in period.. are these the torques specs with the ARP lube or is this with a 30 weight oil as i have heard you need to increase it if not using the ARP lube..
:dunno: