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copynpaste
07-25-2009, 07:11 PM
I have a bit of a problem - not sure if its a user (me) error or if I should get my new bike (just bought yesterday) looked at.

How long should it take for the gears to shift to the next gear after you switch?

I notice when I upshift it seems fine. 5 seconds if that. And this doesnt matter if I go right from the 1st gear to the highest
gear). It adjusts smoothly and quickly.

But when I downshift from say high and right away to low, it takes awhile to get adjusted. Sometimes I will be pedalling for like a full min and something still seems to be adjusting to something. Is this the gears?

I heard that shifting up from low right to high is ok, but downshifting from high right to low (within a second) is bad and wont give you a smooth prcoess in downshifting?

Grogador
07-25-2009, 07:15 PM
Some basic rules:

1) don't shift while applying (a lot of) torque to the pedals, try to shift "ahead" of hills, etc.
2) don't shift more than one or two gears at a time
3) don't shift into 'cross' gears, ie. smallest chainring to smallest cog

Can't quite follow what you're trying to explain, sorry.

Pollywog
07-25-2009, 07:16 PM
Took me a good minute to figure out you were talking about a BICYCLE. I was thinking "a motorcycle taking 5 seconds to get to the next gear?...". Anyways, i don't know how this fits with "proper" technique but I never do large downshifts on a bike in an effort to give the derailer an easier time.

Edit: guy above me knows what he's talking about.

copynpaste
07-25-2009, 07:39 PM
Originally posted by Grogador
Some basic rules:

1) don't shift while applying (a lot of) torque to the pedals, try to shift "ahead" of hills, etc.
2) don't shift more than one or two gears at a time
3) don't shift into 'cross' gears, ie. smallest chainring to smallest cog

Can't quite follow what you're trying to explain, sorry.

1) What do you mean a lot of torque? like going up hills?
2) Thought so, this could be my problem right here. Is it bad for the gears/chain or even derailer when you do this? Ill try to do one gear at a time, wait for it to finish then onto the next.
3) What do you mean? Not sure what chainring is or cog (sorry bike newbie here).

Its been years since ive had a bike, so i should probably take some 101 on shifting before I ruin my new $600 bike.

Also, when is the best times to downshift?

scary_perry
07-25-2009, 08:37 PM
Modern drivetrains can handle shifting under power - no problem. They have been that way since the early nineties. A shift up or down should be nearly instant.

Shifting down multiple gears is no problem either, although as you shift to easier gears you should be careful to keep any momentum you have - if you shift down a bunch of gears you will slow down quite a bit (because you will go from resistance to spinning like crazy).

Cross gearing is when you have the big chainring in front and big cog in back (or small front small back). It will wear out your chain, coggs and rings faster because it stretches and twists the chain. It also makes no sense because you use your big ring to go fast, and your big cogg to climb hills.

Your best bet is to keep the front in the middle ring until you get the hang of riding and just use the rear shifter for the first few weeks.

It sounds like your derailleur cables are not adjusted properly.

copynpaste
07-25-2009, 10:53 PM
Originally posted by scary_perry
Modern drivetrains can handle shifting under power - no problem. They have been that way since the early nineties. A shift up or down should be nearly instant.

Shifting down multiple gears is no problem either, although as you shift to easier gears you should be careful to keep any momentum you have - if you shift down a bunch of gears you will slow down quite a bit (because you will go from resistance to spinning like crazy).

Cross gearing is when you have the big chainring in front and big cog in back (or small front small back). It will wear out your chain, coggs and rings faster because it stretches and twists the chain. It also makes no sense because you use your big ring to go fast, and your big cogg to climb hills.

Your best bet is to keep the front in the middle ring until you get the hang of riding and just use the rear shifter for the first few weeks.

It sounds like your derailleur cables are not adjusted properly.

Which is the big chainring and big cog? Which gears on the handles controls which? On my left bar it has a high to low gauge with about 10 adjustable levels. On the right is gears 1-7 with 7 being the hardest. So not sure how these 2 gears on my bars relate to big chainring and big cog and which handles which?

About 50% of the time I ride on the hardest settings - 7 and at high. Is that bad? Im guessing that would be on the biggest chainring and big cog?

Otherwise I'm going from there to as low as 3 or 4 level with medium on the left bar.

I never ride on anything less. First I just need to figure out which gears (left and right) handles which, the cog or chainring,then ill have a much better understanding.

desto2para
07-25-2009, 11:07 PM
ohhh its a bicycle :nut:
yea what Grogador said

copynpaste
07-26-2009, 08:51 AM
Ok after some googling if im correct this is how it breaks down?

Left gear controls the front gear - which is the chainring
Right gear controls the back gear - which is the cog.

Big cog, little chainring - downhill
Big chainring, little cog - uphill

Harder the gear - bigger the cog/chainring gets?

Can anyone confirm this is 100% accurate?

5000Audi
07-26-2009, 08:56 AM
dood. to find out what side conrtols what gear.. go out to you bike.. look at the chain and turn the gears? you will see iether front of rear move.. simple

maybe give your chain some WD-40.. might free it up some.. as well as the gears

scary_perry
07-26-2009, 10:20 AM
Just ride your bike and stop being a nervous nelly.

copynpaste
07-26-2009, 10:57 AM
Originally posted by scary_perry
Just ride your bike and stop being a nervous nelly.

Well at least now I know not to run anymore big chainring + big cog together. Good thing you guys told me!

Pollywog
07-26-2009, 11:58 AM
Originally posted by copynpaste
Ok after some googling if im correct this is how it breaks down?

Left gear controls the front gear - which is the chainring
Right gear controls the back gear - which is the cog.

Big cog, little chainring - downhill
Big chainring, little cog - uphill

Harder the gear - bigger the cog/chainring gets?

Can anyone confirm this is 100% accurate?


Incorrect.

Small front Big rear = uphill
Big front Small rear = speed/DH

copynpaste
07-26-2009, 12:53 PM
Originally posted by Pollywog



Incorrect.

Small front Big rear = uphill
Big front Small rear = speed/DH

K thanks dog. Ive learned a lot in the past 24hrs. Just took the bike to the shop and got the derailer adjusted and both brakes tightened.

no_joke
07-27-2009, 08:58 AM
Just do a lot of riding around- you'll soon figure out what works and which gears make it easiest for you in any given situation. Start out in the middle gear and middle cog and adjust as per the terrain. Soon you'll be shifting on instinct w/o even thinking about it.

Grogador
08-04-2009, 12:45 PM
Originally posted by scary_perry
Modern drivetrains can handle shifting under power - no problem. They have been that way since the early nineties. A shift up or down should be nearly instant.

Ok, find a big hill, go stand on the pedals, then flail your shifters :) Maybe derailers can 'handle' it without twisting, snapping or dropping the chain, but it's unnecessary wear'n'tear and just shifts a lot smoother if you look ahead or just ease off for a second.


Originally posted by 5000Audi
maybe give your chain some WD-40.. might free it up some.. as well as the gears

Please don't, WD-40 is not a lubricant. Get some proper bike lube.

gretz
08-04-2009, 01:08 PM
Originally posted by no_joke
Soon you'll be shifting on instinct w/o even thinking about it.



:werd: Practice, practice, practice...... its like driving a car. you learn what it likes (there are "rules of thumb" but all bikes different)