2010 civic no heat.

[chadnixon]

-problem solved-:clap:

[chkolny541]

2010 and no warranty?

[LongCity]

In the weather that we've been having lately, I only get around 525 +/- 25 km on a tank before the light comes on. I drive an 07' LX.

[chadnixon]

Originally posted by chkolny541
2010 and no warranty?

:facepalm:

Sure do, loads of it. What do you want to warranty, mother nature? There is no problem with the car, the problem is that a 1.8 sohc engine can't create enough heat fast enough to stop the -30 air from cooling it back down again.

[Mibz]

Originally posted by chkolny541
2010 and no warranty?

[chkolny541]

Originally posted by chadnixon


:facepalm:

Sure do, loads of it. What do you want to warranty, mother nature? There is no problem with the car, the problem is that a 1.8 sohc engine can't create enough heat fast enough to stop the -30 air from cooling it back down again.

so then what the fuck is the point of the post? is it just a rant now?


i thought you were asking a question about why your car cant make heat. And also FYI i have an 01 civic and even in the cold snap a few weeks ago i had full heat in like 5 min in city driving. So if you cant get any engine warmth, thats kinda fucked.

[Team_Mclaren]

Originally posted by chadnixon


:facepalm:

Sure do, loads of it. What do you want to warranty, mother nature? There is no problem with the car, the problem is that a 1.8 sohc engine can't create enough heat fast enough to stop the -30 air from cooling it back down again.

sure if you are so sure that theres nothing wrong with the car, go move south then:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

[chadnixon]

Once again yes, I do have warranty. But I can only imagine the look on the guys face at honda when I tell him my 4cyl honda wont warm up at temps of -20 -40 with windchill. haha :banghead:

Im a mechanic, i've checked the thermostat operation many of times, closing and opening and closing at the proper temps.

There is no problem with the car. Im just wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a winter front since they are not common for cars.

[chadnixon]

Originally posted by chkolny541


so then what the fuck is the point of the post? is it just a rant now?


i thought you were asking a question about why your car cant make heat. And also FYI i have an 01 civic and even in the cold snap a few weeks ago i had full heat in like 5 min in city driving. So if you cant get any engine warmth, thats kinda fucked.

Im not asking why the car can't make heat, I know why it can't. Its a fucking 4 cylinder in -30, that isn't rocket science. Havn't you ever seen cars going up and down the roads with cardboard blocking the rads? Why do you think that is? All im saying (and like I said in my first post) is that isn't a option for me because the rad is too buried behind plastic and other junk in behind the front bumper. I was just wondering if anyone else out there has any other tricks then cardboard! :clap:

[Team_Mclaren]

we are not mechanics but you are, you must have a better idea than we do.

btw: everyone i know with a 1990+ civic can generate heat even when its -40.... but since theres absolutely nothing wrong with your car, maybe its the driver...:dunno:

[BrknFngrs]

This seems strange to me as well; my Civic has a 1.6l and I get full heat city driving for 5-10 minutes.

[chadnixon]

Aside from hanging somthing off the front of the car do block the rad im out of ideas. I see winter front's on the market for trucks and SUV's all the time..im just wondering if they are any made specifically for cars that might look alot nicer thats all.

And I only work on diesels, highway trucks. 15L's don't have a warming up issue.

[Disoblige]

From reading this thread, it seems like OP likes the room temperature a bit higher than we all do.

Because honestly if you're bundled up AND the heat is 100% working correctly, that is plenty toasty. Maybe get a second opinion from a passenger?

Not trying to be rude, but if the heat is working as it should being a 4 cylinder (I own a civic as well), then maybe... man up?

[Mibz]

If the engine isn't warming up then the thermostat won't be popping and your radiator isn't going to be doing anything. On top of that, if the car can't warm up while idling then you've effectively removed the radiator from the equation. The fact that you say it's not warming up because it's an I4 is silly as well.

My buddy drives an '07 or '08 LX and his car warms up just fine in shitty weather. Something tells me you -actually- have a problem.

EDIT: I just read the bolded part above. Now I don't understand this thread at all. What a waste.

[luxor]

Originally posted by chadnixon


Im not asking why the car can't make heat, I know why it can't. Its a fucking 4 cylinder in -30, that isn't rocket science. Havn't you ever seen cars going up and down the roads with cardboard blocking the rads? Why do you think that is? All im saying (and like I said in my first post) is that isn't a option for me because the rad is too buried behind plastic and other junk in behind the front bumper. I was just wondering if anyone else out there has any other tricks then cardboard! :clap:

The only trick is the cardboard way, to reduce the effects of windchill sucking heat away from your radiator and engine block. Get a Bra for the front that covers the air ducts. That way you will keep more heat inside the engine bay to transfer to your heater core.

[chadnixon]

Originally posted by Team_Mclaren
we are not mechanics but you are, you must have a better idea than we do.

btw: everyone i know with a 1990+ civic can generate heat even when its -40.... but since theres absolutely nothing wrong with your car, maybe its the driver...:dunno:


Maybe? I don't know how the driver can cause the car to run hot or cold. I do drive it easily, mostly because im not one to burn the shit out of a cold engine that's all. Let me say this again, the car can and will generate heat. On the highway, its fine. At any speed or long periods of higher RPM's, or when its working like climbing a long hill, or sitting inside by shop idling, inside my garage, or on days when it warms up a bit to -10. It will make heat just fine, but the huge rad on the front end of it cools it off faster then it makes heat. I've stuck a heat gun on the upper and lower rad hoses and even at a idle outside when its cold and not going down the highway most of the heat is lost out the rad. The coolant going back into the engine at the lower rad hose is virtually cold again. Then the thermostat closes, it heats up, opens, and the process repeats it's self.

[johnboy27]

Originally posted by chadnixon


:facepalm:

Sure do, loads of it. What do you want to warranty, mother nature? There is no problem with the car, the problem is that a 1.8 sohc engine can't create enough heat fast enough to stop the -30 air from cooling it back down again.
I have an 06 dx-g and have no problems what so ever with heat. Mine will onlyget up to a couple bars sitting there at idle but once you start driving it goes right up to 1/2 and never drops. I would take it in and have them look at it. You should not be having a problem with heat like that. Mine gets stupid hot inside if I leave the heat cranked.
As for doing a winter front, just pop out the two body clips(might be a bit different on 2010 model) on the shroud that goes from the grill to the top of the rad and you should be able to stick some card board down there.

This morning I warmed mine up for about 10 minutes and then ran up to Red Deer from Innisfail and by the time I hit penhold I was turning down the heat because I was burning up. Seriously I think there has to be something not functioning right. As for your mileage issues, is the car even broken in yet? If it isn't you will see an increase in MPG while you rack up km's.

[chadnixon]

Originally posted by Disoblige
From reading this thread, it seems like OP likes the room temperature a bit higher than we all do.

Because honestly if you're bundled up AND the heat is 100% working correctly, that is plenty toasty. Maybe get a second opinion from a passenger?

Not trying to be rude, but if the heat is working as it should being a 4 cylinder (I own a civic as well), then maybe... man up?

Your right, I do like it warmer then most. I think I might of not been clear when I said no heat. I didn't mean heat as in heater. That will get up really hot as the engine warms up. When i say no heat I mean as in the engine temp gauge. The gauge takes 10x longer to come up and doesn't come up all the way.

Problem has been solved though. luxor gave me a idea with the bra. I took a old shop blanket that I had in the garage and put it over the front of the car blocking the rad and the air dams. I pinched it down under the hood and then zip-tied it on the bottom. Took it for a quick ride around the block and I can already see the difference, huge decrease in warm up time, and comes right up to full temp and will maintain it. Now I just need to make somthing that looks a little better then a shop blanket. haha

:clap: :clap:

[signature7]

I used to have an 07 dx-g and it warmed up right away, maybe talk to Honda and at least see what they say. Even my little brothers Mazda 3 warms up quickly in the worst of weather and my older brother used it for a good while in Saskatoon, and what I've heard their winters are more intense than ours.

[chadnixon]

I did talk to honda a while back. They told me that a few people have experienced similar things. The problem is that the newer hondas have really efficient cooling systems, and can sometimes give off heat faster then the engine can make it in extreme temps. He suggested that keeping more heat inside the engine bay will do the trick, which led me on my quest for a winter front that isn't cardboard, thus this thread was born.

Like I said though, I've got it fugured, Im going to build a 'bra' type front end cover out of a truck one I have at work. It might not look the best, but will keep the heat in the engine bay and keep it running at optimum temp.:)

[chadnixon]

Originally posted by LongCity
In the weather that we've been having lately, I only get around 525 +/- 25 km on a tank before the light comes on. I drive an 07' LX.

If you don't mind me asking what were you getting in the summer? We just got the car late oct. It has 4000kms on it now and like I said we can average around 650 to the light in normal weather. Thats about 50/50 highway/city. Others have told me once they got to around the 10k mark they could push 800km but that is pretty much bone dry.

If we could hit 700km to the gas light on 40 bucks I'd be happy. This is the first car I've had in a while, so coming down from a 1 ton diesel I guess any increase in MPG will help, lol. :thumbsup:

[Mixalot27]

My mom has an 09 Civic and has been having the same problem with lack of heat. Last winter (when the car was only 2 months old) she had no heat at all. Honda installed a new thermostat and she now has some heat, but still not enough. She took it in again to Honda and they told here that's just the way the 09's are and that you can't have the fan on 100% or it won't warm up, rather keep it to 3/4 or less.

The funny thing is that myself and a good friend both have 08 Civics and we both have way more heat than her car. So it seems to be a problem relating specifically to 09+ models.

[chadnixon]

Thats what honda said. The 09's and newer are different then previous years. When its this cold outside (-20) and I have the car up to full temp I can leave it idle, crank the heater to max and watch the temp gauge fall to virtually nothing.

[LongCity]

Originally posted by chadnixon


If you don't mind me asking what were you getting in the summer? We just got the car late oct. It has 4000kms on it now and like I said we can average around 650 to the light in normal weather. Thats about 50/50 highway/city. Others have told me once they got to around the 10k mark they could push 800km but that is pretty much bone dry.

If we could hit 700km to the gas light on 40 bucks I'd be happy. This is the first car I've had in a while, so coming down from a 1 ton diesel I guess any increase in MPG will help, lol. :thumbsup:

Summer I get around 625 +/- 10/15 km. The only time I hit 700km was going to Edmonton and back, which essentially is all highway driving. Normal day to day doesn't include so much highway; the Deerfoot stretch from 16th ave to Glenmore and 16th ave from 68th street to 19th Street NE. I've never pushed it to bone dry but if I remember right, I've gotten around 670 or so driving for a bit on the last bar.

[chadnixon]

I drove about 35k without any bars, and when I filled up it was 47.5L (its a 50L tank.) lol :nut:

[methodicreign]

for any one interested I do the stoneshielding and tend to have lots of scrap pieces left around and could use it to cover your air dams and stuff, it won't last more than a 6-8weeks but that should be long enough by now, and except for any dirt or dust that gets in behind it you won't even see it. let me know and I'll start keeping scraps and bringing them home.

[Aleks]

Sounds like TDI cars that don't head up fast enough.

Honda's engines are becoming that efficient :burnout:

[GTS4tw]

Originally posted by chadnixon



Maybe? I don't know how the driver can cause the car to run hot or cold. I do drive it easily, mostly because im not one to burn the shit out of a cold engine that's all. Let me say this again, the car can and will generate heat. On the highway, its fine. At any speed or long periods of higher RPM's, or when its working like climbing a long hill, or ssitting inside by shop idling, inside my garage, , or on days when it warms up a bit to -10. It will make heat just fine, but the huge rad on the front end of it cools it off faster then it makes heat. I've stuck a heat gun on the upper and lower rad hoses and even at a idle outside when its cold and not going down the highway most of the heat is lost out the rad. The coolant going back into the engine at the lower rad hose is virtually cold again. Then the thermostat closes, it heats up, opens, and the process repeats it's self. sitting inside by shop idling, inside my garage,


Sounds to me like you warmed it up inside one too many times.

[chadnixon]

I spend 8 hours a day, 6 days a week inside a shop with running diesels. Im plenty aware of the effects of exhaust. :zzz:

[chadnixon]

Originally posted by Aleks
Sounds like TDI cars that don't head up fast enough.

Honda's engines are becoming that efficient :burnout:

We looked into a TDI before we bought the civic and that was one thing the salesman said to us. He said there was never any need to idle it because it could run all day and not warm up. When we test drove it, it was fairly cold outside. After the test drive we left it idle for 10 mins while we talked. It cooled it's self right off again and we even poped the hood and touching the block with your bare hands was hardly even hot anymore.

It heated up quick when we drove it, but leave it idle and it cools off faster, lol. I was use to my 6.0L, once it's hot, it stays hot.


It seems as far as the newer honda's, this is a common problem. I think the biggest problem is the jumbo aluminum rad on the front of the new civic's. It's size rivals that of my 1 ton. My old honda (99 hatch) just had a small 1/2 rad. It lost a bit of heat in the winter, but nothing that you would really notice.

http://www.civicforums.com/forums/181-8th-gen-honda-civic/323823-coolant-temperature.html

[chadnixon]

A little more digging on the internet sheads a little more light on the subject. The new i-vtec introduced in the SOHC 8th gen civic's is totally different then what most honda owners are used to. In light load, low RPM conditions the engine switches to a "economy cam" to increase MPG, efficiency, and pumping losses. Once the operator demands more power or the RPM's pass a pre-set point it switches back to normal function. To decrease pumping losses the intake valves are held open well into the compression stroke, thus making the combustion chamber smaller then it actually is, droping the actuall internal cc's of the engine. Essentially the engine is doing alot less work then it has to and is increasing it's efficiency while doing so. Combined with the low load, winter city driving, increased cooling system, and you've got yourself a bunch of frozen ass 8th gen civic owners.

And to think, GTS4tw almost had me thinking the fumes were starting to get to me. :nut:

[chadnixon]

Originally posted by chkolny541


FYI i have an 01 civic .

Mine has 9 years of efficiency over yours. Alot has changed under the hood. More efficiency = less wasted energy. Less energy waste = less heat. :dunno:

And with that, goodnight. We can continue this discussion in the morning. :banghead:

[johnboy27]

Originally posted by chadnixon
A little more digging on the internet sheads a little more light on the subject. The new i-vtec introduced in the SOHC 8th gen civic's is totally different then what most honda owners are used to. In light load, low RPM conditions the engine switches to a "economy cam" to increase MPG, efficiency, and pumping losses. Once the operator demands more power or the RPM's pass a pre-set point it switches back to normal function. To decrease pumping losses the intake valves are held open well into the compression stroke, thus making the combustion chamber smaller then it actually is, droping the actuall internal cc's of the engine. Essentially the engine is doing alot less work then it has to and is increasing it's efficiency while doing so. Combined with the low load, winter city driving, increased cooling system, and you've got yourself a bunch of frozen ass 8th gen civic owners.

And to think, GTS4tw almost had me thinking the fumes were starting to get to me. :nut:
Under 3500 rpm you in "economy" mode , after you go over 3500 you go into (lol) "power" mode and once you hit 5200 the dual stage intake takes effect and a slight bit more power is added. The torque curve for the R18 is actually pretty good and the engine is efficient enough that with adding a turbo kit to it you can bump the engine up to over 200 hp at the wheels.

[chadnixon]

I have heard that these engines respond good to boost, but for me it's just somthing to pick up the groceries, and get the family around. I don't have any need for boost. lol :)

[revelations]

Even my '03 hatchback (K20A3 engine) is prone to losing heat when idling - especially with the heaters on full blast.

Once youre moving and the car is in closed loop mode, its ok to crank the heat up.

[chadnixon]

Ya exactly..and in town there is alot of waiting at traffic lights. It's a decision. Keep the heat on and run the engine colder then it should be. Or keep the engine warm and freeze. When its this cold out I can't do both. Like I said, at a stop light if I crank the heater to the max I can have zero bars left on the temp gauge by the time the light turns green again. :facepalm:

[johnboy27]

Originally posted by chadnixon
Ya exactly..and in town there is alot of waiting at traffic lights. It's a decision. Keep the heat on and run the engine colder then it should be. Or keep the engine warm and freeze. When its this cold out I can't do both. Like I said, at a stop light if I crank the heater to the max I can have zero bars left on the temp gauge by the time the light turns green again. :facepalm:
It's strang that the 09-10 model has this problem yet the 06-08 models don't. It may have something to do with the new front bumper design. With mine I also installed a set of factory fog lights and that covers soem of the grill I suppose.

My best ever tank of gas was 900 km's to 45 litres, that was averaging 90 km/hr driving from Kenora Ontario to some small town to the east. An average tank for me in the summer with mostly highway(steel wheels with 195/65/15 tires) is about 650-700 to about 40-45 litres. I can usually run to the Calgary airport from Innisfail and back on about a 1/4 tank. Right now in the winter I am getting about 525-550 with a 50/50 mix of driving.
My trip from Innisfail to Halifax and back last summer cost me about 520 bucks for fuel and that is hauling myself, my wife and 3 kids and a trunk load of cloths etc.

[chadnixon]

Thats not too bad at all. I drove my H22 accord from halifax to red deer 3 summers ago, loaded with all my stuff for 440 bucks. It was just shy of 6000km's I think. Not to bad for a H series. :clap: