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JfuckinC
02-17-2010, 03:07 PM
Installing a sub on a friends '10 f-150.. i've done a sub on factory deck before, thats no problem, but i'll need to find something to replace the remote wire. Like an ACC that turns off when the truck isnt on.

Any suggestions on where to look? Or where i could find a wiring diagram for the truck? Thanks guys!

ercchry
02-17-2010, 03:08 PM
cig lighter? not sure if it comes on with ignition on a f150 though

JfuckinC
02-17-2010, 03:13 PM
I read on an f-150 forum they wedged them in with a 30amp fuse such as whipers lol... sounds way too sketchy for me..

03ozwhip
02-17-2010, 03:16 PM
i always put the remote wire in the radio fuse....

ercchry
02-17-2010, 03:18 PM
remote wire is not going to draw much, i normally just grab the old test light and check to see if i find something that goes on with ignition

JfuckinC
02-17-2010, 03:19 PM
Originally posted by 03ozwhip
i always put the remote wire in the radio fuse....



Originally posted by ercchry
remote wire is not going to draw much, i normally just grab the old test light and check to see if i find something that goes on with ignition


Yah i know its more of a signal than a power draw.. i'll give'r a try, cant see much harm being done right? It's the only thing i'm unsure of for this install lol..

spike98
02-17-2010, 03:22 PM
Just use the ACC wire for the deck. If your worried about current draw just throw in a relay using the ACC as a trigger with an output to the deck and amp.

03ozwhip
02-17-2010, 03:27 PM
^^^that means he has to tap into the wiring on the deck. the whole point is to not touch the factory deck. ive been doing the radio fuse for years with factory radios with no issues at all. it works perfect.

JfuckinC
02-17-2010, 03:30 PM
Ya i'm trying to avoid deck, the way im doing it is, power from battery to amp, then run a smaller wire from the amps + to a line converters +. Ground both to hopefully body/frame. Splice rear speaker wires to the line converter, which turns the signal to a lower singal via RCA outs. Then amp to sub, viola?

How am i looking boys? Did this before and it worked..

03ozwhip
02-17-2010, 03:32 PM
yep sounds perfect, but you forgot the remote wire lol

JfuckinC
02-17-2010, 03:34 PM
haha, shit, radio fuse to remote hookups on both amp and Line converter!
Thanks for the quick help guys. This is why i stay on beyond. :thumbsup:

03ozwhip
02-17-2010, 03:40 PM
glad to help, i love doing stereo shit even if im out of touch as to whats new out there, its fun to me to hear the end product.

spike98
02-17-2010, 04:00 PM
Originally posted by 03ozwhip
glad to help, i love doing stereo shit even if im out of touch as to whats new out there, its fun to me to hear the end product.

Reading owns me haha i didnt read that he didnt want to tie into the exsisting wiring.

Go to canadian tire and get the add a circut. Its cleaner and will provide some added protection. Especially since you are adding a LOC and amp.

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/Mini-Fuse-Add-A-Circuit_p_27-65.html

JfuckinC
02-17-2010, 04:06 PM
Originally posted by spike98


Reading owns me haha i didnt read that he didnt want to tie into the exsisting wiring.

Go to canadian tire and get the add a circut. Its cleaner and will provide some added protection. Especially since you are adding a LOC and amp.

http://store.42draftdesigns.com/Mini-Fuse-Add-A-Circuit_p_27-65.html

sweet man, i read about one of those. That pictures makes it alot more clear. I think that is a good plan!

Thanks!

JfuckinC
02-18-2010, 10:37 AM
shittt, radio is a relay not a fuse, and its under the hood haha

and i cant find a fucking wiring diagram for the truck so i didn't know which speaker wire was + and which was - anyone know where i could find one? Googles my ass off already.. ones brown with a blue stripe and the other is brown with a white stripe.. if it was my truck i would juts guess lol.. but its a friend 2010 so ya...

Will the remote to radio relay work? or should i choose a fuse. They're all the mini ones.. i ran the remote wire to the box just didn't hook it up yet.. any advice?

ercchry
02-18-2010, 11:01 AM
test light... touch ends where you need them... turn on truck... if it works... use it

Kloubek
02-18-2010, 11:08 AM
I have one if you want to pop over and use it. It is awesome for finding out what leads are hot under various conditions. (Switched, off, etc)

Or, just use the fuse box. It is totally getto, but it works.

JfuckinC
02-18-2010, 11:14 AM
I'm a tad confused, do you guys mean test empty fuse spots? i have a test light..
Electricity isn't really my thing lol.. the way i understand a fuse box is they all have the same current or whatever running through them, but each accessory or whatever has a diff draw and the fuse controls that from going over what it can handle?
So if i were to use an empty spot that is a 'switched' spot i would have to put a fuse in with it to complete the circuit and make the remote wire work?

Man i wish there was just a wire in the back i could hook into lol

Kloubek
02-18-2010, 11:32 AM
Not exactly.

What I've done in the past is to put it in WITH a fuse - on a circuit which is only on when the car is on. Because it just draws a signal rather than any reasonable amperage, you should be able to select any circuit you want. With no draw, it will not damage the remote wire - nor will it reduce any measurable power to that circuit.

If you don't want to screw with this mickey-mouse setup, then spike98 is right - you can draw from the switched power to the deck.

ercchry
02-18-2010, 11:42 AM
Originally posted by Kloubek
Not exactly.

What I've done in the past is to put it in WITH a fuse - on a circuit which is only on when the car is on. Because it just draws a signal rather than any reasonable amperage, you should be able to select any circuit you want. With no draw, it will not damage the remote wire - nor will it reduce any measurable power to that circuit.

If you don't want to screw with this mickey-mouse setup, then spike98 is right - you can draw from the switched power to the deck.

this is what i would do... pull out fuse, strip wire.... push fuse back in with wire wedged in there... done lol just remember its in there if you ever have to replace that fuse

Kloubek
02-18-2010, 11:47 AM
Originally posted by ercchry
just remember its in there if you ever have to replace that fuse

Kinda hard to miss an errant wire sticking out of your fuse box. :)

JfuckinC
02-19-2010, 06:46 PM
Mother fucker, everything is wired. Battery to amp, amp grounded, remote to a fuse with an add acircuit. amp turns on, green light for go. Stinger SALOC (line out converter) has a R and L channel, a G and the RCA output, but its not putting out a signal?

WTFFFFF.

JfuckinC
02-19-2010, 06:49 PM
The sub is dual voice coil, but i hooked it up according to the instructions. :banghead:

03ozwhip
02-19-2010, 07:12 PM
you have an R and L channel off of both rear speakers then into the line converter, no? usually on the line converter, there are some dials, make sure those are turned up....

JfuckinC
02-19-2010, 07:24 PM
it has 4 inputs, 2 for right, 2 for left, and then a ground.. i just double up the one signal from the one speaker into both r and l.. they're turned up. on the amp too..

im lost lol

Rat Fink
02-19-2010, 07:36 PM
.

03ozwhip
02-19-2010, 07:37 PM
use both speakers. im pretty sure that theres 5 input, 2 on the left im pretty sure is + - the middle is ground nad the right is + - from the other speaker. you should always use both speakers for both clarity and a better signal.

03ozwhip
02-19-2010, 07:40 PM
also if the light is on that means everything is hooked up properly so there are only a couple things it could be.

1) sub not hooked up
2)signal is incorrect
3)line converter isnt turned up
4)amp isnt turned up.

Cos
02-19-2010, 07:40 PM
tie into the drl's?

Rat Fink
02-19-2010, 07:42 PM
.

JfuckinC
02-19-2010, 08:04 PM
Yep rat fink thats what i used, luckily found it somewhere on the net. I hooked the fuse up to something, cant remember now, but it was 5 amp, and i put a 5 amp in the add a circuit and it works when the trucks on but not off.

I dunno, im meeting up with him at a party im going to double check everything.. i dont want to have to take the other door off and cut into that speaker too lol.. wouldnt it still work a little with only the one speaker connected?

03ozwhip
02-19-2010, 08:12 PM
it will work like shit. just sayin. also, you should use at least a 15 amp for a remote wire as thats what a radio uses. you should tie it right on the radio fuse....

JfuckinC
02-20-2010, 02:10 PM
Hmm I'm going to take another look at it today.. I hope I can get it figured out..

JfuckinC
02-21-2010, 01:35 PM
anyone know a decent audio forum i can trouble shoot this on?

Speed_69
02-21-2010, 02:00 PM
My remote wire is hooked up to my ignition fuse I believe. Works just fine.

JfuckinC
02-21-2010, 03:05 PM
Yah, the amps working, im just not getting any sound to the sub...

Speed_69
02-21-2010, 04:10 PM
Same thing happened to me when I had my amp/sub installed. Everything was powering on but no sound. Ended up being just the line converter wires were spliced incorrectly to the wrong rear speaker wires. They were crossed I believe. I was using a Peripheral Line Converter and the instructions were wrong.

JfuckinC
02-21-2010, 05:31 PM
Fuckin "saloc" is a piece of shit
Went and got and RE-Q 3 today, and its pumpin out the bass :D

Props to MTX, the RE-Q is a dream to install, and works amazing.