PDA

View Full Version : Fusebox Rellocation



Redlyne_jr
03-01-2010, 09:44 PM
So i officially started tucking my fuse box today im gonna relocate it into the trunk.. anyone done it? thinmyster hows your tuck going? got any pictures or new info.. im curious..

thinmyster
03-02-2010, 12:26 AM
nope just pulled the harness. Been too busy to do anything else. Maybe ill try and finish next week.

Redlyne_jr
03-02-2010, 12:33 AM
hmm yea i wouldnt mind seeing what you did..

Redlyne_mr2
03-03-2010, 05:01 PM
In on this.

Redlyne_jr
03-04-2010, 08:58 PM
Fuck i started it today, probably soldered 100 wires and had to do each of them 2x to get the extension harness together.. i know for a fact its gonna look good i just gotta figure it all outright now.. i got some pictures to come.. anyone removed their Charcoal cannister? steps of procedures behind it? some say that with a remove canister you build alot more pressure in the Gas tank.. Ideas thought suggestions?

dj_Twin_turbo
03-04-2010, 10:49 PM
Originally posted by ~Porsche~
Fuck i started it today, probably soldered 100 wires and had to do each of them 2x to get the extension harness together.. i know for a fact its gonna look good i just gotta figure it all outright now.. i got some pictures to come.. anyone removed their Charcoal cannister? steps of procedures behind it? some say that with a remove canister you build alot more pressure in the Gas tank.. Ideas thought suggestions?

You may want to reconsider your soldering job. As I understand it, electrical connectors in cars are crimped on because vibration and tension can cause breaks in the wiring where the soldering has been done. You'll notice there's nearly no soldering from the factory.

flopicok
03-04-2010, 10:54 PM
Originally posted by dj_Twin_turbo


You may want to reconsider your soldering job. As I understand it, electrical connectors in cars are crimped on because vibration and tension can cause breaks in the wiring where the soldering has been done. You'll notice there's nearly no soldering from the factory.


HA! Yeah, just use T Taps, thats much safer.

962 kid
03-04-2010, 11:05 PM
Crimp + a touch of solder would be best, unless you've dropped 100+ dollars on a crimp tool.


Originally posted by dj_Twin_turbo


You may want to reconsider your soldering job. As I understand it, electrical connectors in cars are crimped on because vibration and tension can cause breaks in the wiring where the soldering has been done. You'll notice there's nearly no soldering from the factory.

This is only true if you have a proper crimp tool + pins, which 99% of people don't. The crimping tools most people use are pretty junk, and usually require some solder to reinforce the connection.


Originally posted by flopicok



HA! Yeah, just use T Taps, thats much safer.

T taps are straight garbage, unless you make a living installing Sony Xplod decks at visions

red99600
03-04-2010, 11:16 PM
better paint that engine bay

gregrego
03-04-2010, 11:25 PM
I plan to do this next winter when I pull the engine out, should make it much easier.

Redlyne_mr2
03-04-2010, 11:35 PM
My engine is out right now, I'll report back once I decide to tackle this.

dj_Twin_turbo
03-05-2010, 12:35 AM
Originally posted by 962 kid
Crimp + a touch of solder would be best, unless you've dropped 100+ dollars on a crimp tool.


This is what I've done in the past, a touch of solder on the connector side of the crimp. This way it ensures the hold & contact, but is also supported.

Redlyne_jr
03-05-2010, 02:43 AM
Originally posted by dj_Twin_turbo


You may want to reconsider your soldering job. As I understand it, electrical connectors in cars are crimped on because vibration and tension can cause breaks in the wiring where the soldering has been done. You'll notice there's nearly no soldering from the factory.

So much of the stuff is Soldered what are you talking about? haha Crimp caps are cheap, everything is soldered heat shrinked and than electrical taped.. Guaranteed no issues..

dj_Twin_turbo
03-05-2010, 08:24 AM
Originally posted by ~Porsche~


So much of the stuff is Soldered what are you talking about? haha Crimp caps are cheap, everything is soldered heat shrinked and than electrical taped.. Guaranteed no issues..

You'll never find a wire spliced together with solder in a Toyota. I really don't care what you do, I'm just trying to give you some good advice. Not trying to rip on your work or anything, just help you out :dunno:

gregrego
03-05-2010, 06:36 PM
soldering works fine, as long as its done correctly.

red99600
03-05-2010, 09:00 PM
not when it's Rhys' soldering,
i'd go with twisting and electric taping

Redlyne_mr2
03-05-2010, 11:34 PM
Haha these threads always end up the same

thinmyster
03-08-2010, 09:05 PM
so whats the proper crimp tool look like?

962 kid
03-08-2010, 09:20 PM
http://www.shipstore.com/SS/HTML/ANC/ANC702015.html

http://www.deutschconnector.com/products/deutsch_connector_tools.html

futurecivic
03-08-2010, 09:24 PM
easy on the visions t-tapping we deffinetly dont stock or ever use t-taps

thinmyster
03-08-2010, 10:23 PM
Thanks 962

rhys how much did you extend your wires by?

thinmyster
03-14-2010, 06:44 PM
upppppppdatessssss? i need to put my car back together!

mr2mike
03-15-2010, 10:15 AM
Originally posted by gregrego
soldering works fine, as long as its done correctly.

I've never had a soldered wire come lose, stereo, alarm or otherwise. If done correctly. I can't believe you guys would consider leaving important electrical connections to the hopes of a quick crimp.

If you can't do it, pay a professional... having to rip back into all your harnesses to find the broken connection because your car sometimes starts, or turns off while driving, lights flicker or the Engine light comes on will be the mother of all jobs. Do it once or regret cleaning up the engine bay.

I had to fix the stereo my sister had soundsaround install with crimps, all the time. Finally went full solder.


Originally posted by red99600
not when it's Rhys' soldering,
i'd go with twisting and electric taping

I'll admit, I did the twist and elec. tape job to a friends stereo. He said, install as fast as possible. took 15min to mount it and wire install. He was leaving on a road trip to San Diego and didn't care.

Haha, Rhys and thinmyster should run a workshop on soldering.

Heat the wire, not the solder.

texasnick
03-15-2010, 10:24 AM
Originally posted by gregrego
soldering works fine, as long as its done correctly.

just wondering how soldering, no matter how it's done, could be worse than twisting wires together and taping them up. :dunno:

962 kid
03-15-2010, 08:49 PM
Originally posted by mr2mike
I've never had a soldered wire come lose, stereo, alarm or otherwise. If done correctly. I can't believe you guys would consider leaving important electrical connections to the hopes of a quick crimp.

If you can't do it, pay a professional... having to rip back into all your harnesses to find the broken connection because your car sometimes starts, or turns off while driving, lights flicker or the Engine light comes on will be the mother of all jobs. Do it once or regret cleaning up the engine bay.


I've seen "correct" solder joints break. Granted, it doesn't happen very often on street cars, but still a possibility. Like I said, a proper crimp is far stronger and more durable than any solder.


Originally posted by texasnick


just wondering how soldering, no matter how it's done, could be worse than twisting wires together and taping them up. :dunno:

Not worse than twist + tape, but definitely not good. Melted insulation, improper solder penetration or poor strain relief (adhesive shrink wrap) will all lead to premature failure, sometimes just as quickly as the twist and tape.

Redlyne_jr
03-16-2010, 01:04 AM
Originally posted by thinmyster
Thanks 962

rhys how much did you extend your wires by?

roughly a foot the tuck is done im probably gonna start the car tomorrow of attempt, ill get you some pics of my relocation tom :D