Bad engine tick on turbo eclipse

[Tampadsm]

I have lost almost all power. ticking is loud and constant. I am so lost. What is it, what do I do? Thanks in advance.

[CelicaST-162]

Is it a ticking or a loud knocking?

[EK 2.0]

How many miles do you have on your motor...DSM's in general do develop lifter tick...now how bad is the sound...is it something you "think" is bad or do people stop and ask if your engine is gonna blow...Without actually hearing the sound, or exactly where it is coming from its really hard to say "its this"...or "its that"...Could be anything from lifters...to valves smacking tops of pistions...to a worn out pulley...anything, i think you catch my drift...Take it into a local garage and see what they say Bro...That is all I can suggest...

[sandman]

im guessing cyclone AWD or illealge would hav a better idea, but is it ticking or knocking? knocking would b in my guess that ur jsu getting badly timed detonation, or maybe ur mistaking the sound for piston slap???
wat other symptioms are there? theres lots of really knowledgeable DSM tuners here
welcome to beyond :thumbsup:

[4wheeldrift]

Where under the hood is the noise coming from? Turbos can make some pretty brutal noises if the bearings get sloppy. How much mileage on the motor and turbo?

[sandman]

lol nvm in the while it took me to see ur msg n reply thinking id b the first one 3 ppl already did :rofl:, stupid slow computer
:banghead:

[4G63Power]

Uh oh!!! If you have a huge loss in power, it sounds like the timing belt may have skipped out of place. DO NOT DRIVE the car and get it checked out.

[4wheeldrift]

Originally posted by 4G63Power
Uh oh!!! If you have a huge loss in power, it sounds like the timing belt may have skipped out of place. DO NOT DRIVE the car and get it checked out. The 4G63 is an interference motor isn't it? Messed timing on interference motors is never a good thing.

[5.9 R/T]

Originally posted by 4wheeldrift
The 4G63 is an interference motor isn't it? Messed timing on interference motors is never a good thing.

Yup. It always amazes me that a manufacturer would put a timing belt as opposed to a chain on an interference motor.

[4wheeldrift]

Originally posted by 5.9 R/T


Yup. It always amazes me that a manufacturer would put a timing belt as opposed to a chain on an interference motor. Well, you can get a chain to skip, but you REALLY need to put some effort into it.

[CalgarySS]

If the sound is a gradually increasing light "tick" that increases in volume over the course of thousands of kilometers, it is probably valvetrain.

As was stated earlier, "Do not drive the car!"

If an engine develops a noise that appears suddenly AND drops in power. There is something VERY wrong.

[Tampadsm]

It is definetly a tick not a knock. And it is the valvetrain I am 99% certain and my mechanich said it was that just by hearing it and opening the oil cap and feeling the air just blowing outta there high force. I think it happend from pushing my limits with a boost controller and en evo turbo too far on a smic. However I procured a used head for $100 and plan to do a swap out. Before i put the new head on I am gonna make sure my entire bottom end is fine. I am then gonna rebuild my old head and hold onto it just incase. My guy told me what is broke is broke and that it was ok to drive it so I have been driving it from place to place to get second opinions. As far as I can tell the pistons are firing right it is just the compression is really bad in all of the cylinders.

[Tampadsm]

:english:

[CalgarySS]

Originally posted by Tampadsm
My guy told me what is broke is broke and that it was ok to drive it so I have been driving it from place to place to get second opinions. As far as I can tell the pistons are firing right it is just the compression is really bad in all of the cylinders.

All cylinders have poor compression and you are still driving it?
If the rings are toast or you have holed a piston, you can damage the cylinder wall beyond what a typical overbore can fix.

First step, get a new mechanic.

A valvetrain tick is not a big deal, it is just the clearances of the parts opening up slightly because of wear. This will have no noticable effect on horspower.

The problem that you are experiencing is much more then a valvetrain tick...

[Tampadsm]

damn, thats scary. I hope the pistons are alright although i have a feeling it is just my valves. have to take her apart to see myself.

[Davetronz]

Those timing belts are fuckers.
Worst experience of my life replacing those 2 bad boys.

[EK 2.0]

Hey TampaDsm...Take a look aaat all of the DSM sites around the net...I mean they can offer loads of advice for noob owners as well and veteran DSMer's...FAQ's (http://www.vfaq.com/FAQlocator-index.html) and...1000 AAQ (http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/) are 2 of the bigger ones...Have a look at them Bro...


Arif.

[Dr. Lightspeed]

Sounds like the timing belt has skipped and now the camshaft is rotating back against itself at TDC. This will give a ticking sound and is only miles away from snapping the belt. Get it serviced and make shure whoever does it also puts in a new tensioner.

[THEONE]

Originally posted by Tampadsm
damn, thats scary. I hope the pistons are alright although i have a feeling it is just my valves. have to take her apart to see myself.

Be smart and don't replace the B-Belt! Do a balance shaft eliminator kit and you well never look back!

[Moe Man]

check the timing belt if it is in the right position


and check spark plugs and wires see if they are firing in the right order

[Jasoncivic]

lifter tick sucks and its really annoying!! i can find out from mi friend how to get rid of it if u want me too. he owns a shop that specializes in DSM'S :thumbsup: :dunno:

[cablepower_9]

new head could mean great things. BUT


have a mechanic - CHECK TIMING BELT/CHAIN
diagnose the most serious areas of engine wear during along with timing belt/chain check/replace - ie: rings, seals, valves etc.

if the engine is good - no piston crank case or rod damage - AND THE HEAD IS BAD
then you should -
REPLACE THE head with your new reconditioned head, TIMING BELT/CHAIN if needed & AFTER Every 150K.
BUT - replacing the timing chain and head can be a bitch. better to give good parts to a good mechanic unless you are a reasnably equipped mechanic with a shop.

if you have a new head and are going to use it, might as well recondition it and port and polish it. machining may be needed for the seats, guides, ports and mating surfaces. new valvetrain parts (seals, guides, valves and valve keepers & springs) are nice but expensive. make sure to install it on a clean flat deck (top of block). replace/strengthen/clean/inspect everything you remove along the way.


TUNE THE ENGINE & adjust all settings to specifications-
NEW FILTERS, HOSES, WIRES, TIMING, FLUIDS, check the adjustment of the valves on your car. look on the internet for help too. your mechanic will do a lot of this too, just make sure to tell them.

and - adjust the valves again if necessary

last -

BUY A WORKSHOP REPAIR MANUAL