Tile Flooring

[bunzofsteel]

Hey Everyone,

Does anyone know a DIY Tile Flooring site/place? I looked at Home Depot and RONA, not working out for me.

Any input would be great, thanks! :)

[Kona9]

you can maybe get some ideas and tips if you PM C_Dave45.

Great tiler and long time Beyonder.

[C_Dave45]

If you're looking for DIY advice I can give you whatever advice you need. Otherwise a great forum for that is:
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php
of which I'm a member of as well. You'll find the information a little overwhelming though. Kinda like coming onto beyond.ca and asking whats the best import to buy and what mods to do to it.
But I'll give you any tips you need to do it yourself. Tile is a great DIY project if you have lots of time and for smaller projects. Large jobs, and technical applications, where your spending several thousand dollars on material...might want to re-think the DIY idea.

[broken_legs]

Heres some questions:

- Do I need a sub floor on 5/8" Fir from 1968?

- If I did already put in a 3/8" plywood sub floor (glued and screwed) is that enough?

- Is porcelain tile stronger (less likely to crack) than ceramic?

- Tiles before cabinets, or tiles after cabinets?

- Should I shim my cabinets if I install tiels afterwards?

- Will installing heat coils (layer of thinset & coils) in only one area cause the floor to be uneven? If so do i need to apply a layer of thin set everywerhe even where there's no coils?

- Can I apply thinset directly to plywood, or do I need to prime?


Sorry for asking so many questions, just everytime I get an answer it uncovers 5 more questions lol

[DENZILDON]

homedepot profile in youtube

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by broken_legs
Heres some questions:

- Do I need a sub floor on 5/8" Fir from 1968?....If I did already put in a 3/8" plywood sub floor (glued and screwed) is that enough?

Yes. A total of 1" of ply is what you want. 3/8 ply + the original 5/8 T&G is good enough

Originally posted by broken_legs

- Is porcelain tile stronger (less likely to crack) than ceramic?
yes its stronger, but any tile will crack if the substrate is not rigid enough.

Originally posted by broken_legs
- Tiles before cabinets, or tiles after cabinets?....
- Should I shim my cabinets if I install tiels afterwards?
99% of the time, cabinets before tile. Yes its easier to tile before cabinets...but then you have problems with any gables that have to sit on your tile...if the floor is not level you will see any shims that might be required



Originally posted by broken_legs
Will installing heat coils (layer of thinset & coils) in only one area cause the floor to be uneven? If so do i need to apply a layer of thin set everywerhe even where there's no coils? No, the transition is so minor, you will not see a difference. You can see in THESE PICS (http://s67.photobucket.com/albums/h313/Dave_n_Heather/Flooring%20progress%20Pics/) that I only heated certain portions of the floor. You can just "build up" the one or two tiles between the transition areas.


Originally posted by broken_legs
- Can I apply thinset directly to plywood, or do I need to prime? No, just use "modified" thinset. Or also referred to as "poly modified". It's about $20 for a 50lb bag at Home Depot. It's called Versabond (http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/ProductCatalog/SettingMaterials/LatexPortlandCementMortars/VersabondFlexFortifiedThinSet.aspx).

http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/images/VBFW25_web.jpg

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by DENZILDON
homedepot profile in youtube

Home Depot's tile advice is not the greatest..just an fyi.

[DENZILDON]

I know but it still gives you the basic on how to do it.

[broken_legs]

Thanks C_Dave45!

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by DENZILDON
I know but it still gives you the basic on how to do it. yes it does. Also good to see an actual video that shows consistency of your mixes (grout, thinset, etc). To get time-saving tips and find out what procedures aren't necessary, talk to a pro. I'm here if anyone has any questions.
And you're welcome BL. :)

[broken_legs]

wam bam - New questions...

Tile Floor in the Bathroom:

- Do I tile right up to the drain of the toilet - before the toilet is installed - or do I tile around the toilet?

Thanks!

[sputnik]

Originally posted by broken_legs
wam bam - New questions...

Tile Floor in the Bathroom:

- Do I tile right up to the drain of the toilet - before the toilet is installed - or do I tile around the toilet?

Thanks!

Tile right up to the drain of the toilet.

[rony_espana]

Also don't forget it really sucks to remove tile if you screw up.

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by sputnik


Tile right up to the drain of the toilet.

^ what he said. When you're putting in your toilet, because your new floor is a little higher...play it safe and use TWO wax rings instead of just one.
Ideally the "toilet drain" (the plastic 8" ring) should be sitting ABOVE the finished floor. No problem if its not...just use the extra wax.

[ALBERTA_IS]

Here are a few extra tips:

Make sure when you lay your subfloor you screw it down in a four inch square grid pattern. You can use 1" 5/8" coarse drywall screws. This will make your subfloor much stronger. I always recommend Schluter Ditra / Kerdi which is a membrane material that will allow for movement with your tile and will prevent cracks in the grout. I also very higly recommend Johnbridge.com it is a very huge wealth of information with lots of helpful installers. Check for the kerdi shower handbook which you can download for free. Plus there is tons of Schluter videos on youtube.com. Modified thinsets are definitely the way to go, mix it up to a peanut butter like consistency, remember it will thicken as you let it stand. I always mix it up just a tad bit runny and then let it sit for 15 minutes. Here is a pic of when I redid my bathroom floor. Sorry I wish I had more to help you out. Fell free to ask any questions.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b7cc31b3127ccec2802d4d0b0400000010O01AbNmzlm0cMQe3nww/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[C_Dave45]

Originally posted by ALBERTA_IS
Here are a few extra tips:

Modified thinsets are definitely the way to go, mix it up to a peanut butter like consistency, remember it will thicken as you let it stand. I always mix it up just a tad bit runny and then let it sit for 15 minutes.

Just to correct a couple of things you mentioned there.

First of all, if you're planning on using Schluter Ditra for the floor, then a layer of 3/8's plywood is not needed.

Secondly, when using Schluter Ditra or Schluter kerdi, you CANNOT use modified thinset...has to be NON modified, between the tile and the Schluter product. you can read the Schluter site to find out why. Using modified will also void the schluter warranty.

Thirdly...the reason your thinset thickens is because you're not letting it "slake". You mix it to the proper consistency, let it stand (or slake) for 15 minutes...then remix it. DO NOT re-add water to it...this will weaken the mix, as well as further delay the slake.

Also a time saving tip: using long screws every 4 inches is good...but also over kill and very time consuming.
3/8's ply, wood glue, and flooring staples (1/2' crown staples) at least an inch and a half in length will suffice. Takes a tenth of the time.