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View Full Version : Car lift and Eletrical question (Electricians please look)



00redLUDE
09-18-2010, 11:14 AM
Ok, I have a long question and hope someone can answer it as well as follow what I am trying to ask.

First, I am ready to purchase a car lift from carlift.ca. It will be the 4 post fortress lift. It will require a 110v 30amp outlet.

http://www.carlift.ca/carlift_fortress.php#specifications

Now my garage outlets run to the fuse box in the mechanical room and connects to a 15 amp fuse. I'm ok to change that to a 20amp fuse BUT I would be concerned to switch it to a 30amp fuse for risk of frying the wiring to the outlets in the garage.

My questions:
1. Based on the spec. sheet for the car lift, can I just leave the fuse at 15amps or should I change it to 20 amps? I have already pm 2 members that have the carlift lifts from previous threads that I have searched and would like to see what they did.

2. I was told by the person who will be installing my lift that all I would need would be to switch the fuse at a 20amp as the wiring to the garage is a GFI wiring and that that would negate the wiring from frying? I don't recall if our garage is a GFI wiring or not. Question is, is his statement correct? Would the garage have GFI wiring? Is so, would changing to a 20amp fuse NOT increase the risk of wiring frying in GFI wiring. If there is NO GFI wiring in the garage does that even matter?

The garage is a newer garage (built in 2008) so would be up to code for anything up to 2008 (if that matters)

So long winded question but I was very confused and wanted to get some other members opinion. I was literally on the phone with carlift.ca with my MC in my hand on Friday when the service advisor was playing it netural and just got me more confused. :dunno:

AndyL
09-18-2010, 11:19 AM
Oi... No you can't just replace the fuse - wires need to be sufficient to handle that load - likely minimum code and wouldn't stand a chance of carrying 30amps.

Second no - GFI is only going to save you from ground faults - not overheated wiring that catches fire...

redblack
09-18-2010, 12:17 PM
1. You cannot change the breaker/fuse to 20A. If you have a 15A breaker, you will have 14 gauge wire which is only rated for 15A. You will over heat the wiring and burn down your house.

2. If the hoist requires 120V and 30A, you need to either hire an electrician or run a new wire yourself. For 30A i believe you need to run 10 gauge wire (10/2 NMD90) new circuit breaker, 30A plug and plug box. I dont see why you would need a GFCI wiring if your hoist is in your garage. From what i remember its only required for bedrooms, bathrooms and outside plugs


This can easily be done in a few hours if you have an unfinished basement and the right tools.

00redLUDE
09-18-2010, 02:57 PM
^^^^ redblack. THANK YOU for your reply, very appreciated. I have two more questions please.

3. If i get the lift with the motor needing 110v 30amp and I just plug it into the current outlet with 15amps. will the motor still work? What would happen, if anything?

4. If I have to run new wiring for this lift which type of wiring would be better. The motor comes in a 110v 30amp or 220v 21amp power unit? Both are 3 hp.

Thanks

hellraiser456
09-18-2010, 03:10 PM
No. A 30 amp plug is not the same as a 15/20 amp plug. You will have to run new wire, get the proper plug, and buy a new breaker. There is likely a pvc pipe that.comes from the outside of you house to your garage.

Running too much current through small wire will cause a fire. Especially when electric motors are involved. It shouldnt be a hard job, but it is important that it is done right.

As for 120 or 240, since you have to run new wire, i would get the 240 volt model. However. It depends on what kind of panel you have. You should be able to run 240.

redblack
09-18-2010, 06:10 PM
3. i would think the inrush current from the motor wiil trip the breaker

4. i would go with the 220V unit. You will need to buy 10/3 NMD90 wire instead of the 10/2 and the correct plug and breaker

rx7_turbo2
09-18-2010, 07:31 PM
#12AWG copper conductors are good for usage upto 20a.
#10AWG are good for usage upto 30A.

If the lift specifications are 110v 30a, then that's what you go with. You'll need a 30a cord end (if not provided with the lift) you'll need a 30a receptacle, you'll need 2 conductor #10AWG wire run directy back to your breaker panel, and you'll need a single pole 30a breaker installed in your panel. Nothing else will work properly, or safely.

You can opt for a 240v unit but by the sounds of your specs there's not much point. You can't buy a 21a breaker, so you'd have to install a 30a breaker (it's the next size up) anyway. Which means #10AWG wire as well so.......Really six of one half dozen of the other.

rx7_turbo2
09-18-2010, 07:35 PM
Originally posted by redblack
3. i would think the inrush current from the motor wiil trip the breaker

4. i would go with the 220V unit. You will need to buy 10/3 NMD90 wire instead of the 10/2 and the correct plug and breaker

Whether you run it at 110v or 220v you only need 10/2NMD90.
110v-One "hot" wire, one neutral wire.
220v-Two "hot" wires, no neutral.

mobius
09-18-2010, 07:59 PM
Originally posted by rx7_turbo2


Whether you run it at 110v or 220v you only need 10/2NMD90.
110v-One "hot" wire, one neutral wire.
220v-Two "hot" wires, no neutral.

This is correct, although 240V would be slightly more expensive because you would need a 2 pole 30A breaker, as opposed to a single pole 30A breaker.

And just to reiterate to the OP, please have an electrician come and install the proper wiring for your lift. Your 15A receptacles are not sufficient, and the cost of the electrician is much less than:

a) Your garage burning down with all of your tools/parts/vehicles inside of it

b) having to have an electrician come afterward to troubleshoot/fix improper wiring if you have a non catastrophic failure.

rx7_turbo2
09-19-2010, 11:38 AM
Originally posted by mobius


This is correct, although 240V would be slightly more expensive because you would need a 2 pole 30A breaker, as opposed to a single pole 30A breaker.

And just to reiterate to the OP, please have an electrician come and install the proper wiring for your lift. Your 15A receptacles are not sufficient, and the cost of the electrician is much less than:

a) Your garage burning down with all of your tools/parts/vehicles inside of it

b) having to have an electrician come afterward to troubleshoot/fix improper wiring if you have a non catastrophic failure.

Agreed 100%