Oil type and change interval

[msommers]

After surfing around BITOG last night and a bit at lunch today, I'm curious what type of oil people are using and why.

C&P this format if you like.

Vehicle:
Oil type:
Oil filter:
Change interval:
Driving habits:
Comments:

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Vehicle: 2006 G35 6MT Coupe
Oil type: Motomaster Formula 1 regular 5W30
Oil filter: WIKs
Change interval: 5,000 km
Driving habits: Stop n go, highway and spirited
Comments:

[dj_rice]

Vehicle: 2002 Nissan Pathfinder LE
Oil Type: Mobil 1 5W30/Castrol Synthetic 5W30 (Whatever is on sale)
Oil Filter: Nissan OEM
Change Interval: 6000 KM
Driving Habits: City and occasional Calgary Road Trips


Vehicle: 1993 Nissan 240sx SE
Oil Type: Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W30/Castrol Synthetic 5W30 (Whatever is on sale)
Oil Filter: Nissan OEM
Change Interval: 6000 KM
Driving Habits: City/Spirited, occasional Calgary road trips


Why do I use full synthetic?In my opinion, better quality oil, more time between changes and I don't mind paying extra for it. Although I use premium fuel in my Pathy but regular in the 240.

[Tomaz]

Vehicle: 2009 Mazda 3 2.0L
Oil type: Regular 10W30
Oil filter: Mazda
Change interval: Every 8,000km
Driving habits: Bat out of hell
Comments: Not going to lie, I am cheap. It is an eco-car, with 130HP... My oil changes are free, which makes me happy. :D


Vehicle:1995 Volvo 850T
Oil type: Mobil 1 5W30 Synthetic
Oil filter: Volvo Performance
Change interval: 5,000km
Driving habits: full throttle, full boost :burnout:
Comments: Recommended setup by fellow Volvo enthusiasts. I change my oil often because of how much heat I produce, ultimately burning the oil (yeah, not good, i know). The more I change, the better I feel.

[nixrx8]

Vehicle:2003 Audi A4
Oil type: Some sort of synthetic the service department uses no idea..
Oil filter: Audi
Change interval: Every 7000km
Driving habits: City, spirited
Comments: Don't overly think about it too much! Just drop the keys when the mileage is due.

[n1zm0]

Vehicle: 92 Prelude (winter beater)
Oil type: try to Mobil 1 5W30 as much as possible (i bought cases of them from the wholesale on 58th when it was on some crazy sale)
Oil filter: anything except those white minute lube filters
Change interval:5k-6k depending on weekend laziness and if my ramps arent being borrowed by someone
Driving habits: almost strictly highway: Deep SW to CYBW (calaway park pretty much) everyday to and from

Vehicle: 240sx (SR20)
Oil type: Mobil 5W30 few months before storage, Mobil 1 0W-40 summer use
Oil filter: OEM Nissan
Change interval:4k-5k
Driving habits: No retarded 18 y/o first car RHD/RWD antics but spirited city use i'd say

[YamahaV8]

Vehicle: 2002 Civic SiR
Oil type: Amsoil Signature Series 0w-30
Oil filter: K&N
Change interval: 8-10K
Driving habits: 70% city, 30% highway. City includes occasional full throttle pulls.
Comments: Reduced my oil consumption compared to standard oil. Slight decrease in mileage due to the factory specs asking for 5w-20 but this car is also known for galling the cam lobes with lighter oil like 5w-20 which is why I went for the 30 weight. Engine noise is less and smoothness at idle and redline is improved. My valve-train is absolutely spotless.

[Aleks]

Vehicle:2006 BMW 325i
Oil type: Synthetic BMW
Oil filter: BMW
Change interval: Every 24,000km or once per year
Driving habits: City, spirited
Comments: as per manual

[Twin_Cam_Turbo]

Vehicle: 1992 Nissan 180SX
Oil type: Castrol 0W-30
Oil filter:OEM
Change interval: 3-5k
Driving habits: Always driven hard.

[texasnick]

Vehicle: 1994 Toyota GT-Four WRC

Oil type: Redline full synthetic 10w30 in summer....winter not sure yet.

Oil filter: YZZF1 Toyota OEM...anyone have another recommendation for an st205?

Change interval:5k or whenever I'm bored enough.

Driving habits: Generally taken pretty easy. No thrashing before warm, no shut down until cooled a bit. At full chat maybe once or twice per drive, and usually only in gears 1-3.

Other car's oil is still undecided, as the project is temporarily on hold until I get a handle on work travel a bit more.

[94boosted]

Vehicle: 09 Cobalt SS-Turbo
Oil type: Castrol Edge 5W-30
Oil filter: AC Delco
Change interval: 5-7k
Driving habits: DD, Occasional Roadtrip, Fair bit of spirited during summer (autocross)
Comments: This is prob the best oil that is approved by GM for my car

[RZRSHARP_SVX]

Vehicle: 1995 Subaru WRX
Oil type: Mobile 1 5W-30
Oil filter: OEM
Change interval: aprox 5000k
Driving habits: some boosting, mostly sane driving

Vehicle: 1992 240sx
Oil type: Mobile 1 5W-30
Oil filter: fram
Change interval: 3000k or less
Driving habits: extremely hard and lots of boost, driving the way its supposed to be driven, most insane driving

[Cos]

Vehicle: 2007 Ford F150 5.4L
Oil type: Ford 5w20
Oil filter: Ford Factory
Change interval: 5000km but am starting to think 10 is good for me
Driving habits: 80% highway and city. 15% back country gravel road 5% off roading
Comments: I am using the Ford stuff because of what the BITOG forums. I have heard that the ford oil is some of the best tested oil there has been on the site. Also I would get Pennzoil Platinum if I could find the god damned stuff.



Vehicle: 2009 Suzuki SVF650
Oil type: Shell Rotella T3
Oil filter: Suzuki Filter
Change interval: 3,000km
Driving habits: It is a street bike
Comments: Again using Rotella because of BITOG and CGP forums.

[msommers]

That's actually why I'm using Motomaster Formula 1. It's just re-branded Shell Rotella and goes on sale sometimes at $9/4.4litres. Additives in it are quite good too.

I'm actually surprised how many people dish out for synthetic.

Nissan guys using OEM filters, I'd really consider otherwise. I remember seeing someone had cut one open and they were using cardboard for some parts.

Look into NAPA Gold/K&N/WIKs filters. Solid construction, perforation count is high, and good back flow valves.

[Cos]

Originally posted by msommers
That's actually why I'm using Motomaster Formula 1. It's just re-branded Shell Rotella and goes on sale sometimes at $9/4.4litres. Additives in it are quite good too.

I'm actually surprised how many people dish out for synthetic.

Nissan guys using OEM filters, I'd really consider otherwise. I remember seeing someone had cut one open and they were using cardboard for some parts.

Look into NAPA Gold/K&N/WIKs filters. Solid construction, perforation count is high, and good back flow valves.

What is the Motomaster stuff, is the Rotella gas based or is it still diesel additives?

[dj_rice]

Originally posted by msommers
That's actually why I'm using Motomaster Formula 1. It's just re-branded Shell Rotella and goes on sale sometimes at $9/4.4litres. Additives in it are quite good too.

I'm actually surprised how many people dish out for synthetic.

Nissan guys using OEM filters, I'd really consider otherwise. I remember seeing someone had cut one open and they were using cardboard for some parts.

Look into NAPA Gold/K&N/WIKs filters. Solid construction, perforation count is high, and good back flow valves.


http://myg37.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction/175085-dont-use-nissan-oem-oil-filters-long-post-lotsa-pics.html

[Abeo]

Vehicle: 2008 Ranger 2.3
Oil type: Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec 5w20
Oil filter: Lately Mobil 1 'synthetic' filter from CT
Change interval: 6000 km
Driving habits: 60% rush hour deerfoot, 40% easy hwy
Comments: I feel that the engine deserves synthetic considering its beat on every time its driven

Vehicle: 2001 Honda CR250R
Oil type: 10W40 Genuine Honda GN4 (or whatever else is lying around, atf occasionally)
Oil filter: none
Change interval: the earliest of: every 3 rides, water crossing drowning, or repair
Driving habits: Beat the living piss out of it
Comments: It enjoys burning engine oil better than atf (fucking crank seal leaks)

[Cos]

Originally posted by Abeo
Vehicle: 2008 Ranger 2.3
Oil type: Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec 5w20


I am in no means telling you what to do but Ford oil is some of the best oil you can buy (based on BIGOT) it is Conoco rebranded up here. I buy it from the dealers when it goes on sale, last time I got it for $3.25 a liter. I worked out to two cases and 1 oil filter for $85.00

If you want to run Full Syn Ford also sells it. Universal has it for $60.00 for a case of 12. However it is 5W30. Ford normal oil is semi-syn.

Just a heads up.

[962 kid]

Vehicle: 1994 RX7
Oil type: Redline 10w40, LubroMoly MoS2 10w40
Oil filter: Denso
Change interval: 5000 km
Driving habits: 60% traffic, remainder is cruising or aggressive driving + monthly track day when it's running

[troyl]

Vehicle: 2010 Subaru WRX 265
Oil type: Mobil 1 5W-30
Oil filter:OEM
Change interval:5000 km's
Driving habits: Lots of boosting!

[msommers]

Originally posted by Cos


What is the Motomaster stuff, is the Rotella gas based or is it still diesel additives?

As far as I know, it is gas. I should double check.

[Abeo]

Originally posted by Cos


I am in no means telling you what to do but Ford oil is some of the best oil you can buy (based on BIGOT) it is Conoco rebranded up here. I buy it from the dealers when it goes on sale, last time I got it for $3.25 a liter. I worked out to two cases and 1 oil filter for $85.00

If you want to run Full Syn Ford also sells it. Universal has it for $60.00 for a case of 12. However it is 5W30. Ford normal oil is semi-syn.

Just a heads up.

Yeah, I know the oil is good stuff, but I like changing my own oil (how else would I know that the dealer oil changers over-tighten drain plugs to the point of almost cracking the pan...) Are you sure they only have 5W30 in synthetic, not 5w20?

If I could find a good parts guy I'd go there more often, but I've only encountered tools. I used to work in a shop, so I get really pissed off when they start blowing smoke up my ass ... I only go there when its a potential warranty issue.

[Cos]

Originally posted by Abeo


Yeah, I know the oil is good stuff, but I like changing my own oil (how else would I know that the dealer oil changers over-tighten drain plugs to the point of almost cracking the pan...) Are you sure they only have 5W30 in synthetic, not 5w20?

If I could find a good parts guy I'd go there more often, but I've only encountered tools. I used to work in a shop, so I get really pissed off when they start blowing smoke up my ass ... I only go there when its a potential warranty issue.

I do mine myself in my pad. I have yet to see 5w20 syn. When I know I need oil I call around to the 5 Ford dealers that are on my way home (Metro, Maclin, Universal, Marlborough, Cam Clark) and see if any of them have it on sale. I dont have a parts guy I just call around and ask every 3 or 4 months.

I just walk into parts, say I need xyz of 5w20 and they guy on the phone said it was $3.50 or whatever a liter. They get it, I pay, and leave. Are you talking about service writers who are trying to f you over.

[AE92_TreunoSC]

Vehicle: 95 maxima
Oil type: 5w30 Castrol GTX, bulk or bottled
Oil filter: , wix, Mopar or OEM equivilant.
Change interval: uhh about every 6000km or so
Driving habits: Fairly spirited with 5000rpm+ shifts every day.
Comments: Car has about 250,000kms and its taking my driving very well, I drive the snot out of all my cars and I find its the best way to keep carbon down and the engines happy.

No oil consumption at all between changes, I've never had to top it up yet. The VQ30 was bullet proof, so I just make sure it gets basic maintenance and I trust it.

Anyone doing German oil changes at 24,000km's is insane, a used engine for a modern german car is up around 8000$+ and I've seen plenty of oil pump and bearing failures on bmw's and audis, all over a lack of 100$ oil changes being done by the long ass factory service intervals.

If anything all commuters should be inspected twice a year, regardless of age, and an oil change is a great way to make the best of it.

[know1edge]

Originally posted by dj_rice
Why do I use full synthetic?In my opinion, better quality oil, more time between changes and I don't mind paying extra for it.

Less oil changes = Less money spent
so essentially, it's about equal

Though I did see someone said they use a fram filter with synthetic. Someone told me that the aftermarket ones are only rated for 5000kms, so if you're gonna go the extra 2000+kms, you should use the OEM or better. Myth?

[Cos]

Originally posted by know1edge


Less oil changes = Less money spent
so essentially, it's about equal

Though I did see someone said they use a fram filter with synthetic. Someone told me that the aftermarket ones are only rated for 5000kms, so if you're gonna go the extra 2000+kms, you should use the OEM or better. Myth?

Have you ever tested the oil in your vehicle? There are two things the oil does in your car:

1.) Additives stop it from foaming, rusting, etc. Synthetic does a better job at not breaking down over Dino oil.

2.) It takes dirt particles away, if your oil filter does not filter out anymore or does an insufficient job and you have 20,000km on the oil the additives may still be intact but the dirt is circulating around and around. This is made worse if you have shit gas or drive on dirt roads.

[Abeo]

Originally posted by Cos


I do mine myself in my pad. I have yet to see 5w20 syn. When I know I need oil I call around to the 5 Ford dealers that are on my way home (Metro, Maclin, Universal, Marlborough, Cam Clark) and see if any of them have it on sale. I dont have a parts guy I just call around and ask every 3 or 4 months.

I just walk into parts, say I need xyz of 5w20 and they guy on the phone said it was $3.50 or whatever a liter. They get it, I pay, and leave. Are you talking about service writers who are trying to f you over.

Service writers left me a bad taste in my mouth from Universal... although I wasn't super impressed with their parts dept when testing them out (slow, lazy, rude). If I'm going to overpay for oil and filters, I may as well buy at CT or NAPA and avoid the 15 min wait for someone to serve me.

[Cos]

Originally posted by Abeo


Service writers left me a bad taste in my mouth from Universal... although I wasn't super impressed with their parts dept when testing them out (slow, lazy, rude). If I'm going to overpay for oil and filters, I may as well buy at CT or NAPA and avoid the 15 min wait for someone to serve me.

I see what you are saying haha. I only go if I can get a deal. Otherwise I usually purchase stuff from Crappy tire. Walk in, grab stuff, go to computer automated teller, drive home in 5 minutes.

By the way, I hear the $8.00 Mobil 1 filters for ford trucks are great too. Just be careful what you use as some of the bleed back valves suck and can cause cam phasor failure.

[msommers]

Originally posted by know1edge


Less oil changes = Less money spent
so essentially, it's about equal



See this is something I have said before and I'm going to say again. This is the wrong mentality and here is why.

For X price, I can get at least 2 if not 3 changes of regular for the price of synthetic, changing filters as well. Now what's better for your engine? New regular oil and new filter changed twice in a 10,000km period or 1 change because it's synthetic?

I just want people to really investigate if they 'need' synthetic or not and make an informed decision. Regular oil isn't the crap it used to be 50 or 60 years ago. In the past, I was in the camp that synthetic was the be-all, end-all and I justified it blindly because it cost more and I "heard it was better," but I have since changed my views on the matter.


Originally posted by AE92_TreunoSC
No oil consumption at all between changes, I've never had to top it up yet. The VQ30 was bullet proof, so I just make sure it gets basic maintenance and I trust it.

Man you're lucky, the VQ35 rev-up version in the Infinitis can burn oil like no tomorrow lol. I need a couple catch cans ASAP before the whole thing is caked with carbon. At least it's under warranty for 3 more years!!.....

[Zero102]

Vehicle: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Touring (2.0L)
Oil type: Mobil 1 5W20
Oil filter: OEM
Change interval: 6000km (as per manual)
Driving habits: daily driver, heavy stop & go
Comments: Once the warranty is up I plan on stretching out to at _LEAST_ 15,000km between changes, depending on the results of UOA. I'll be taking some baseline numbers towards the end of the warranty period


I use synthetic oil because of the cold winters we have here. I don't have a heated garage, and I often park outside where there are no plugins, so there are times when I am trying to start my engine and it is -30 or -35*C. I used to use conventional oil (castrol) in a car I had 4 years ago, one day when it was -35 I was putting something in the trunk and noticed my 1L spare bottle of oil was rock solid, you couldn't even squish it slightly. I switched to synthetic on the next oil change and never went back.

[Cooked Rice]

Vehicle: 04 4Runner V8
Oil type: Eneos Synthetic Blend 5W-30
Oil filter: OEM/TRD
Change interval: 8000KM
Driving habits: Lead foot
Comments:

Vehicle: S13 w/ 95 KA24DET
Oil type: Mobil Super 2000 10W-30
Oil filter: WIX/BOSCH
Change interval: 3000KM
Driving habits: Sideways
Comments:

[HiTempguy1]

Originally posted by Zero102

I use synthetic oil because of the cold winters we have here. I don't have a heated garage, and I often park outside where there are no plugins, so there are times when I am trying to start my engine and it is -30 or -35*C. I used to use conventional oil (castrol) in a car I had 4 years ago, one day when it was -35 I was putting something in the trunk and noticed my 1L spare bottle of oil was rock solid, you couldn't even squish it slightly. I switched to synthetic on the next oil change and never went back. [/B]

This! The most damage/wear done to your motor is on startup! Conventional oils do not flow nearly as well during cold starts, even if you compare 5w30 con to 5w30 syn.

As to the argument about "clean" oil, your oil shouldn't be getting that dirty to begin with. It is a closed system, most of the dirt and grime comes from oil that gets "burnt" or "coked". Synthetic doesn't coke nearly as bad as conventional. YMMV.

[Cooked Rice]

Originally posted by HiTempguy1

As to the argument about "clean" oil, your oil shouldn't be getting that dirty to begin with.

Oil that gets dark/dirty easily means there are good detergents in the oil, so it's doing it's job by cleaning your motor vs. leaving the sludge etc. caked in there.

[msommers]

Originally posted by HiTempguy1


This! The most damage/wear done to your motor is on startup! Conventional oils do not flow nearly as well during cold starts, even if you compare 5w30 con to 5w30 syn.

As to the argument about "clean" oil, your oil shouldn't be getting that dirty to begin with. It is a closed system, most of the dirt and grime comes from oil that gets "burnt" or "coked". Synthetic doesn't coke nearly as bad as conventional. YMMV.

I'll agree that start up is where most of the wear and tear is. I'll also agree that synthetic does a better job at start up in colder climates, after all that is why it was designed in the first place. Is it leaps and bounds better than you seem to be suggesting? Well, I'll leave that you you to decide.

Also, the "dirty oil" comment I'm guessing was for me. It's more about the oil thickening over its lifetime than anything. By the logic you had, you should only ever need to change your filter, which obviously is silly.

Like I said, it depends on what you think your needs are. I'm not here to claim synthetic is a waste of money. But people should be able to make decisions for themselves based off of knowledge they've accumulated rather than what some joker at the parts store thinks is best for you vehicle.

BITOG has a wealth of knowledge and I'm still trying to take it all in.

[Zero102]

Originally posted by msommers


I'll agree that start up is where most of the wear and tear is. I'll also agree that synthetic does a better job at start up in colder climates, after all that is why it was designed in the first place. Is it leaps and bounds better than you seem to be suggesting? Well, I'll leave that you you to decide.

There are all sorts of videos on YouTube of conventional vs synthetic oil flow tests at very low temperatures. Even as high as -20*C there is a very pronounced difference in flow characteristics between conventional and synthetic oils.

I agree it is up to each person to decide so I encourage everybody to educate themselves on this matter and check these videos out.