RSX project ?

[s dime]

Hello all,

I currently have a 2002 RSX premium and would like to make it my project. The body was getting rough, so I took it to screamin and had it fixed and painted. I am now looking at doing some mechanical mods. The stock motor runs fine, but I need more. I am thinking type S motor and mods, or some K24 / K20 hybrid. I am also looking at suspension mods.

I am motivated to do this project myself, I'm just looking for advice and help sourcing parts and swap info. I have posted up the same thread on clubrsx, just seeing if anyone local has some ideas.

Thanks!

[Revhard]

Get a newer k24a2 out of a TSX, and never look back. So much easier than trying to build a frankenstein to end up at the same place.
Get a good header, like SSR, not e-bay junk and copycats. Cold air intake, swap the tranny to a 6sp at the same time w/quaife. Sway bars and rear tie bar from progress. K-pro is an absolute to get everything out of the motor, and take it to Tecmotion to get it tuned after. Run low 13's at the track all day, or rip up the road course, or just have fun.
I have more passes on my rsx than anybody on this board, and most on clubrsx. Don't be afraid to push it, use good oil, and tranny fluid.
Do it in any order, but that would be a fun car.
I did a comp check and leak-down after 500 passes and 65,000 km's, everything was like brand new. The car runs like a top, is a pile of fun, and yours would be faster by a fair margin.

[yipb]

Originally posted by Revhard
Get a newer k24a2 out of a TSX, and never look back. So much easier than trying to build a frankenstein to end up at the same place.
Get a good header, like SSR, not e-bay junk and copycats. Cold air intake, swap the tranny to a 6sp at the same time w/quaife. Sway bars and rear tie bar from progress. K-pro is an absolute to get everything out of the motor, and take it to Tecmotion to get it tuned after. Run low 13's at the track all day, or rip up the road course, or just have fun.
I have more passes on my rsx than anybody on this board, and most on clubrsx. Don't be afraid to push it, use good oil, and tranny fluid.
Do it in any order, but that would be a fun car.
I did a comp check and leak-down after 500 passes and 65,000 km's, everything was like brand new. The car runs like a top, is a pile of fun, and yours would be faster by a fair margin.

one day if i ever meet you, you have to teach me how to drive the rsx! =D

[KRZY403]

Originally posted by Revhard
Get a newer k24a2 out of a TSX, and never look back. So much easier than trying to build a frankenstein to end up at the same place.
Get a good header, like SSR, not e-bay junk and copycats. Cold air intake, swap the tranny to a 6sp at the same time w/quaife. Sway bars and rear tie bar from progress. K-pro is an absolute to get everything out of the motor, and take it to Tecmotion to get it tuned after. Run low 13's at the track all day, or rip up the road course, or just have fun.
I have more passes on my rsx than anybody on this board, and most on clubrsx. Don't be afraid to push it, use good oil, and tranny fluid.
Do it in any order, but that would be a fun car.
I did a comp check and leak-down after 500 passes and 65,000 km's, everything was like brand new. The car runs like a top, is a pile of fun, and yours would be faster by a fair margin.

That's insane... every one of those mods cost an arm and a leg. Might as well just save money and buy another car unless you're a crazy rsx fan with a lot of money.

[texasnick]

I would second a k24a2 for ease of installation in a DC5. Very fun powerband on that motor.

Try to get an 06+ if you can.

...and don't cheap out on the header. You'll regret it. aka no DC headers:nut:

[Revhard]

Originally posted by KRZY403


That's insane... every one of those mods cost an arm and a leg. Might as well just save money and buy another car unless you're a crazy rsx fan with a lot of money.

No, they are good mods. He asked, I answered. Modding your car at all is a bad investment in all reality. You could use that argument for every car that get's modified.
You going to sit there and tell the ferrari guy that modifying his car is expensive and he should have bought a Zonda?
I mean he took his car to Screaming Paintworks. He likes his car, and is willing to spend money on it to make it the way he wants.
Besides your lack of help in this thread, you are really barking up the wrong tree on a car forum where over 50% of the members modify their cars.
I spent the money to put good parts on my car and it's been great, drives awesome, and is faster than 99% of the e-bay turbo junk done on the cheap out there.
I was passing along my knowledge on the requested subject.

[s dime]

I appreciate the help Rev. I have looked into all of the parts you mentioned, and am keeping an eye out for that motor as well.
I do not want to cheap out anywhere, and am not anticipating an overnight build. I have had a number of cars over the years, and
This is the only one that keeps a smile on my face. Let me know if you see that motor anywhere !

[Sentry]

We're at 3300 feet. Turbo what you got. K20A3 is no slouch boosted, especially compared to a wheezing NA K20/24 trying to breathe.

But that's just me.

[s dime]

I've thought about that too sentry, I'm just not sure what the motor can handle.
It hasn't exactly had an easy life, and is approaching 175k.

[KRZY403]

Originally posted by Revhard


No, they are good mods. He asked, I answered. Modding your car at all is a bad investment in all reality. You could use that argument for every car that get's modified.
You going to sit there and tell the ferrari guy that modifying his car is expensive and he should have bought a Zonda?
I mean he took his car to Screaming Paintworks. He likes his car, and is willing to spend money on it to make it the way he wants.
Besides your lack of help in this thread, you are really barking up the wrong tree on a car forum where over 50% of the members modify their cars.
I spent the money to put good parts on my car and it's been great, drives awesome, and is faster than 99% of the e-bay turbo junk done on the cheap out there.
I was passing along my knowledge on the requested subject.

I never said they weren't good mods. They're excellent, but they're also not cheap. I use to be on crsx a lot and I rarely came across a member with an ssr header. Why? because of price. You can still get a quality header than can make comparable gains with half the cost and still have a fun car to drive.

I'm not telling anyone to go buy a faster car simply because the mods are expensive. That would be ignorant, like your example. I'm just basically saying compare your costs to the gains. It's my opinion/advice. OP can use it or ignore it. If he really likes his rsx and he enjoys modding cars, he can spend all the money he wants on it. If it makes him happy, it's worth every penny. I never said it was wrong.

Where did you read that more than 50% of the people on this forum modify their cars?

[stardotstar]

Originally posted by s dime
I've thought about that too sentry, I'm just not sure what the motor can handle.
It hasn't exactly had an easy life, and is approaching 175k.

My old rsx was boosted with a super charger and had 170k kms on it with the original motor. I think the new owner has been driving it for 2-3 years since I sold it.

[Revhard]

Originally posted by stardotstar


My old rsx was boosted with a super charger and had 170k kms on it with the original motor. I think the new owner has been driving it for 2-3 years since I sold it.

I can believe this, but it really boils down to boost, and abuse. Running 7psi on a blower and driving hard on the street is a whole different ballgame from 16psi on a turbo and drag racing/road racing.
The s/c set-ups are pretty lame compared to turbo now.
400whp is pretty standard with a good kit on pump, where the s/c's are 250-280whp wound up with a small pulley, and make a ton of heat if you try to do more.
OP, any decisions?

[n1zm0]

Originally posted by Sentry
We're at 3300 feet. Turbo what you got. K20A3 is no slouch boosted, especially compared to a wheezing NA K20/24 trying to breathe.

But that's just me.

:werd: your all-motor K-series anything will never achieve its full potential here with all the $ you throw at it, maybe if you lived in Vancouver.

[texasnick]

Stock motors seem to do pretty well (number-wise and reliability-wise) on mildly turbocharged setups. As revhard has said 400+whp isn't hard to do on a stock k20 (3 lobe) and an off-the-shelf turbo kit (think peakboost)

While the N/A route will lose more power up here, keep in mind that with 12.5:1 pistons and shelf parts to compliment it will see 300 whp at sea level.

We have a ~ 300 whp piston / cam combination at home that we're putting into a k24a4 with k20a2 head that we are planning on using nitrous with to make up for lack of oxygen at elevation.

This is the first Honda motor that REALLY has potential N/A. I think it's all up to what you want the car to do, but keep in mind that this isn't an N/A b18c or even h22a.....the motor N/A will have much more potential than either of those platforms.

[Revhard]

Originally posted by texasnick
Stock motors seem to do pretty well (number-wise and reliability-wise) on mildly turbocharged setups. As revhard has said 400+whp isn't hard to do on a stock k20 (3 lobe) and an off-the-shelf turbo kit (think peakboost)

While the N/A route will lose more power up here, keep in mind that with 12.5:1 pistons and shelf parts to compliment it will see 300 whp at sea level.

We have a ~ 300 whp piston / cam combination at home that we're putting into a k24a4 with k20a2 head that we are planning on using nitrous with to make up for lack of oxygen at elevation.

This is the first Honda motor that REALLY has potential N/A. I think it's all up to what you want the car to do, but keep in mind that this isn't an N/A b18c or even h22a.....the motor N/A will have much more potential than either of those platforms.

Exactly. Boost is great, and 350whp would be soo easy to get and drive around on a k24. Imean there are lots in the 500whp+ on dynojets running around(k20).

[Sorath]

k24 + boost motors are cheap to replace if you blow them anyways.

[s dime]

Still have my eyes open for that k24!

I had a look at the front struts today, both are leaking oil! I guess the suspension has made itself a priority now. :rolleyes:

In the past I had a 2007 civic with HFP suspension all around. I would like the rsx to ride the same as the civic did. Lower (1.5") and much firmer. ( not slammed though ) What have you guys done for suspension on your RSX? I have been leaning towards koni yellows and eibach springs of some sort (pro-kit?). I hope NOT to run a camber kit as well, if possible. Anything else I should do while i'm at it? tie bars etc...

Also, now that speedtech is gone, is there anywhere local to buy parts? If not, where are the best deals online? With Option Import gone as well, anyone want to help? Or reccomend a reputable shop that compares to their service...

Thanks lads.

Man, bad luck...
Getting a bit of a howl over 60 today, put car in neutral, same noise... I'm thinking wheel bearings?

[A2VR6]

For suspension if you want something similar to the HFP kit for civics look at the Mugen SS suspension... Lowers by about 1.25 inches, firms up the ride and is pretty decent quality. This is what I used with my rsx when I still had it and I was happy with the setup. The only thing I didn't like about it was the lack of adjustability. If I were do to it again I'd get koni yellows and ground control coilovers or go with kw v2's

[Everlast]

I had the Mugen SS on my Type-S and thought it was pretty good. Rode firm but soft enough to deal with speed bumps and such.
Only bad part is lack of adjustability. If I were to do it again, I'd save up for full coilovers

Edit: haha just realized I typed up the same thing as above.
^+1

[texasnick]

IMO, yellows and eibachs are the way to get adjustability without forking over an insane amound on coilovers.

Plus you tell them what spring rate you want...or at least you used to be able to.

If you're interested in a k24a2 pm me with what kind of budget you're working with.

[Revhard]

Originally posted by texasnick
IMO, yellows and eibachs are the way to get adjustability without forking over an insane amound on coilovers.

Plus you tell them what spring rate you want...or at least you used to be able to.

If you're interested in a k24a2 pm me with what kind of budget you're working with.

Coilovers are pricey for the rsx. That said, they make a nice improvement.

[rx-7fd]

Originally posted by texasnick
Stock motors seem to do pretty well (number-wise and reliability-wise) on mildly turbocharged setups. As revhard has said 400+whp isn't hard to do on a stock k20 (3 lobe) and an off-the-shelf turbo kit (think peakboost)

While the N/A route will lose more power up here, keep in mind that with 12.5:1 pistons and shelf parts to compliment it will see 300 whp at sea level.

We have a ~ 300 whp piston / cam combination at home that we're putting into a k24a4 with k20a2 head that we are planning on using nitrous with to make up for lack of oxygen at elevation.

This is the first Honda motor that REALLY has potential N/A. I think it's all up to what you want the car to do, but keep in mind that this isn't an N/A b18c or even h22a.....the motor N/A will have much more potential than either of those platforms.

So I just had a question I also live In Calgary. Was gonna plan on going NA with the k20. But after reading what you guys are sayi about elevation. If a guy is to make any decent power around here with a k20 basically have to go turbo right...? :dunno:

[89s1]

depends on your idea of "decent power"

[texasnick]

yeah what kind of power do you want?

Most k20's (3 lobe) with something off the shelf like a peakboost kit are in the 400's whp.

A JRSC or comptech charger on a k20 and high boost (9-11 psi) are going to sit at around 270 or so whp and a k24 3-lobe probably more like 300.

N/A on a 3 lobe 2.4 is pretty easily built to see 300 whp.

These are all ~sea level numbers and are just a ballpark. Our elevation is going to effect each setup differently, with the N/A combo being affected the most.

All of those setups are going to have different power bands as well, so figure out how much power you want and where you want it and go from there.