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msommers
03-17-2011, 04:25 PM
Roughly for a guy who is 5'6...what kind of sizes am I looking at? Thinking picking up a used one but if I need one that's 52cm, it saves me from bothering with ads that are 60cm etc!

Cheers.
Matt

stellerGT
03-17-2011, 06:39 PM
For what its worth I ride a 50cm and I'm 5'5. However I have a short inseam. Its hard to figure out what size bike you should be riding based only on height. Some people have short legs, and long torsos, and vice versa. The best way to figure out what size bike you need is to visit a bike shop and hop over one.
There are some guides online that will help you in determining what size bike you should be riding, but nothing beats getting a proper fitting at a bike shop. Good luck in finding a bike. :thumbsup:

msommers
03-17-2011, 07:22 PM
Thanks man. I measured my inseam and used a couple charts online so I'm thinking ~52-54cm should be alright. You are definitely correct, only way to check is to try!

I'm looking at this one right now...what's your opinion of price and components? I'm not very familiar...

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-sports-bikes-Trek-Road-Bike-W0QQAdIdZ266737793

bigboom
03-17-2011, 10:47 PM
Don't base your purchase of a road bike on your inseam measurement. You want to base it on top tube length, best thing to do would be to go get fit for a top tube length and then start your shopping from there.

Here is a fit calculator that you can use.

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO

msommers
03-18-2011, 10:34 AM
Thanks man, that was really useful.

Any insight on the bike for sale posted above?

swak
03-18-2011, 10:51 AM
That bike posted above is a reallll intro-level bike.

Id suggest, upping your price range if you want a bike worth your time, and go from there.

Im about 5'6" and ride a 52cm, but my MTB and commuter are all diff sizes, so its something you definitely need to try out for yourself, what feels right, and what fits you, etc..

Good luck man!
See you on the road hopefully this summer.:thumbsup:

bigboom
03-18-2011, 10:54 AM
Check out what grouppo he has on there. Any idea what frame/year it is? Get him to send you the top tube length as well, make sure he measures from seat post to steering tube.

Looking at the bike more closely it looks like a Sora level shifter, 105 rd, a triple ring shitty crankset and junk wheels. If you are serious about getting into the sport I'd spend a little more, not sure if its in your budget but at $1500 you could get a way better bike thats new.

msommers
03-18-2011, 11:03 AM
Swak I'm not sure how much I want to spend right now. I really don't want to spend more than 500 to see if I even like it. I have a MTB now but want a road bike to go to work and maybe run errands and what not. An intro bike is fine, I just don't want a piece of garbage!

Here was his response to my email asking about availability and flexibility on price:



Hi Matthew,

The bike is still available. Its been listed for several days now. I have shown it to a few people and one person made an offer of $400, which I refused. However I was hoping to sell it by this weekend, so if you want to make a reasonable offer, then I will consider it.

I tell you what. If you come take a look tonight I will give it to you for $450 (Due to all the warnings on Kijiji, I am only willing to accept cash as payment.). That is the absolute least I will accept. It's a very good buy at that price, if you look at new bikes w. aluminum frames and carbon fiber forks they typically start around $1100-1200 and go up from there. Obviously you only have to accept if you like it when you see it. I can tell you that its used, but in excellent working condition. It had a tune up late last summer after I bought it and was only ridden about 4-5 times since. Everything works perfectly, and if you take a close look at the drivetrain (chainrings, chain and rear cogs) you will see that there is very little wear, showing this bike does not have many miles on it.

If you want to come see it tonight, or if you have any other questions, feel free to contact me again.

core_upt
03-18-2011, 11:10 AM
If you're just using it for errands and commutes, I think it will do the job, but if you were looking to log more miles, I'd keep looking.

The bike is about as entry level as you can get, but as the seller says, buying brand new with dropbars isn't going to be cheap.

A friend with a ton of experience in racing bicycles gave me this advise on fit:
some bike "feel" better than others. You can always dial it in with certain adjustments, but as a general rule, you want the top tube to be around 1-2 inches below your junk when you straddle it flat footed. I always like to take bikes out for a spin and do a little sprinting out of the saddle. There is a term in sailing that refers to the feel of a boat. Apparently when a boat sails extra sweet it possesses something called "yare". Bikes have it too. When you are out of the saddle and you feel like you can climb Mt. Everest on it, then it is probably right for you. You can usually tell if a bike has yare the first time you ride it.

I'd say at $450, it's worth finding out if its for you. As a bonus, people are always looking to buy road bikes for the Ride To Conquer Cancer in a few months, so if you really don't like it, or want to upgrade, it shouldn't be too hard to sell it for what you paid.

msommers
03-18-2011, 11:23 AM
Wicked, thanks dude.

swak
03-18-2011, 11:27 AM
Originally posted by core_upt
If you're just using it for errands and commutes, I think it will do the job, but if you were looking to log more miles, I'd keep looking.

The bike is about as entry level as you can get, but as the seller says, buying brand new with dropbars isn't going to be cheap.

A friend with a ton of experience in racing bicycles gave me this advise on fit:
some bike "feel" better than others. You can always dial it in with certain adjustments, but as a general rule, you want the top tube to be around 1-2 inches below your junk when you straddle it flat footed. I always like to take bikes out for a spin and do a little sprinting out of the saddle. There is a term in sailing that refers to the feel of a boat. Apparently when a boat sails extra sweet it possesses something called "yare". Bikes have it too. When you are out of the saddle and you feel like you can climb Mt. Everest on it, then it is probably right for you. You can usually tell if a bike has yare the first time you ride it.

I'd say at $450, it's worth finding out if its for you. As a bonus, people are always looking to buy road bikes for the Ride To Conquer Cancer in a few months, so if you really don't like it, or want to upgrade, it shouldn't be too hard to sell it for what you paid.

haha... Funny, but to be honest, terrible advice.
Bike TT sizing has as much to do with reach as it has to do with your inseam. This is why saddle hights are adjustable. (reach is also adjustable)

... you didn't hear this from me, but go to a bike shop, try a few bikes, and see what feels best. Then go from there.
You're probably a 52cm from what you said, but you gotta ride em first to know what you like.

msommers
03-18-2011, 11:31 AM
One of the things I wanted to do last year was ride out to Bragg Creek or even Canmore but really didn't feel like doing it with a MTB. It's one of the things I'd like to do this summer but again, nothing is competitive.

I'm not familiar but what makes this bike very intro vs. a bike that is $1500? I mean, if both fit fine for simplicity, are the gearing or weight the main factors?

swak
03-18-2011, 12:25 PM
For your sake, it'd be the difference in the reliability of the components. You dont't want your wheels to fall apart, 30km's out of the city!

For you, the lowest spec i'd go is Shimano Tiagra (it will be the cheapest and the most reliable). If you wanted to get into racing, 105 spec is the lowest id recommend.

... and you're right. You definitely wouldn't want to ride your MTB out to Bragg/Canmore. All your efforts would be going into your suspension.

msommers
03-18-2011, 01:28 PM
I just noticed that the Bike Swap is April 2, so I'll probably hold out for that. Selection will be quite a bit bigger hopefully!

He got back to me already on the components it has.



Hi Matt,

Well for starters it a 52cm Trek aluminum frame that is a raw aluminum color. The forks are carbon fiber. Most of the components are Shimano Tiagra, including the hubs, flight deck brake lever/shifters and derailleurs. There are also some ontreger components, namely the stem, handlebars, forks and cranks. It has a nice anatomical saddle that is designed for men with a groove running down the length and there is an actually a gap in the middle that goes right thru the seat. This is not a hugely expensive thing, but its a nice plus for a male rider as this kind of seat is designed to reduce the pressure put on your groin, and give some ventilation.

It was tuned up late last summer. All the bearings were checked and adjusted. The brake and shifter cables were all replaced and lubricated for smooth shifting and braking. The drive train was checked and lubricated. The bike is used, but everything is in good working condition, nothing is broken or flawed in any way.

That's about it. I will leave you to judge the rest for yourself when you see it.


TJ.



All of that is jibberish to me except Tiagra which Swak pointed out earlier! If it'll last me a season and not fall apart on the way to Bragg Creek, I'll be content.

msommers
03-19-2011, 02:09 PM
Went and checked out that used bike and a couple new ones. The used one actually said 105 on the derailleur but tiega on that piece that goes through the back wheel. It was scuff up where the brake levers and so I figured it has been crashed a few times. The fit seemed pretty good but I told him I'd hold off.

Headed up to Bow Cycle. The guy spent a lot of time adjusting how things fit. This alone makes me want to buy a new bike considering I have no idea wtf I'm doing.

However, he was REALLY trying to sell me on a full carbon bike as opposed to a rear/fork carbon and alum body. It has SRAM Apex components on it which from the list on the wall was at the bottom. He kept going on that if I was really thinking about it, full carbon is much more comfortable... He honestly sounded like he knew what he was talking about, like 100%. I just wanted some opinions from those that maybe have an aluminum bike or had one and could comment.

Either way, I think unless I brought this dude out with me to fit a used bike properly, I'm stuck with buying a new one. I was on a Cannondale, 51cm. A 49cm before which was a touch too small apparently. To me, I couldn't tell the difference ha.

bigboom
03-19-2011, 10:32 PM
Who were you talking to there? Most of the guys there are pretty good about fitting at Bow, especially Big Dave.

I have a few different frames and as much as I hate to push carbon I have a hard time riding aluminum for my road rides. For commuting and short rides/sprint type training I have no trouble riding aluminum but for the long rides 50km plus I will always pick my carbon bike, I feel a LOT less beat up after.

SRAM apex isnt bad its just heavy. The thing about the lower end components such as 105 and Apex is that you will find them on a lot of Cyclocross bikes because they will take a beating and are very reliable.

If carbon is in your budget do it, you can even check out bikesdirect.com for some of the motobecane carbon frames.

Honestly you just need to set your budget and go from there.

msommers
03-19-2011, 11:12 PM
You're definitely right. I need to set a budget. It's so easy to get carried away wanting the step-up...it's like MTB shopping all over again...ha.

I think it depends if I really think I need a carbon frame or if aluminum will work. Even still, I've been reading on the materials of frames (Ti, Steel, CF, Al) and there seems to be a lot of debate on the actual differences (or lack thereof) in terms of comfort but big differences in shear stress, stiffness and strength. At this point, I'm kinda set on getting full 105 components as they're reliable and the high sets have a less noticeable advantage (slight weight loss from what I've been reading). However, I need shoes and pedals still so I need to account for that as well (~250ish).

Right now, I'd be comfortable dropping ~1500 all said and done. I think a carbon frame will add $500 to that. However I noticed a Norco with a carbon frame and 105 components for ~1750 I think. Part of the issue is that I need it as a commuter as well so it needs to hold up.

Has anyone done that 3D fitting at Bow? Sounds pretty sweet :)

core_upt
03-20-2011, 04:30 AM
scuffs on the levers could be from banging it into things when storing it, or locking it up, not always from a crash.

If you're really on the fence about what you want in a road bike, I'd say buy the used one, as it's only $450. Again, I'm sure you can sell it in a few months to upgrade - by which point you yourself will know what you want, not just what a shop tells you (no disrespect to Bow or other shops, they do know their stuff).

Also, depending how secure your lock-up is at work, you may want to think if bringing an 1800 bike to work is worth it. You can check your insurance (home/renters) and see if it's covered for theft.

swak
03-20-2011, 01:56 PM
Originally posted by msommers


Has anyone done that 3D fitting at Bow? Sounds pretty sweet :)

Yes.

And yes its sweet, especially if you want to get into racing.
Its designed to help you get the most efficient body position for the greatest amount of effort, with the least amount of effort. If you're concerned about budget though, keep in mind its a $300 fit, plus new stem, saddle, etc... to make it worth your while.

I still dont ride a carbon frame yet, too broke, but i imagine that when i do, i wont be able to go back easily....

msommers
03-20-2011, 06:07 PM
I'll be able to bring my bike into my office, so safety isn't an issue. Very valid point though.

I checked out the list for the Bow Sale provided by a friend. Gonna see how much of a deal they really are as I remember the prices being awfully close to their sale prices!

Another friend recommended Campione Cycle. He picked out the frame and all the components..well for a mere 2500 ha. Still, any opinions of this place?

swak
03-20-2011, 06:35 PM
Campiones great, but for the price for what you get, to be honest - Bow Cycle is your best bet.

Eurotech is another good option though, they sell primarily opus bikes, and have killer deals on their last years models.Check em out.

But go to the blue light for your pedals, etc (50% off). Good luck man.

bigboom
03-20-2011, 07:38 PM
Originally posted by swak
Campiones great, but for the price for what you get, to be honest - Bow Cycle is your best bet.

Eurotech is another good option though, they sell primarily opus bikes, and have killer deals on their last years models.Check em out.

But go to the blue light for your pedals, etc (50% off). Good luck man.

Campione carries some pretty sweet lines but yeah they are pricey and arent as flexible on price either. I've had very good experiences at Bow and the Bike Shop.

Road Pedals arent a very good choice if you are going to use the bike for commuting, you're probably going to want mountain pedals for commuting. When you for for your road rides switch them out with road pedals and road shoes.

The 3d fit is pretty cool, you get to see yourself on screen which gives you a really good view of your pedal stroke, highly recommended.

msommers
03-21-2011, 12:54 AM
Ryan (the salesman at Bow) was mentioning road vs mountain shoes as well, mountain being easier to walk in? I'll look more into this.

As for pedals, are all the thread count/pitch the same for every bike or is it brand specific? I read a little about SPD stuff although some of it is kinda confusing. I think a MTB shoe might be beneficial to start with but if I eventually decide to get a road shoe can I use the same pedal if it's SPD? And if so, what is a pedal you would recommend?! I suppose a recommended shoe would also help. I'm betting these will be on sale as well.

msommers
03-22-2011, 10:03 AM
So yesterday I went over to Pedalhead where I got talked into looking at the TRC Composite 2 - full carbon and 105 comps. The price was awesome at $1850 which I could wiggle a little.

The only problem I had was honestly how much we didn't go into fit as we did at Bow. Adjusted the seat and had me look down the stem, looking for where the front hub was while I had my hands on the hoods. If I couldn't see the hub because of the stem, it as a good size. I don't know, maybe this is a quick and dirty method that works but I honestly don't know if he knew how to size as well as at Bow. A couple hundred bucks more is nothing if the bike size is spot on and at 1500-2000 bucks, I can't afford for it not to fit!

Went to The Bike Shop. The salesguy didn't even put me on a bike. He yacked about my budget and what it'll get etc. He had me looking at Opus bikes which in his opinion because they're a smaller company, will get better comps (all were carbon frames) and better wheelsets. This was the only place so far to mention how important wheelsets are. He kind of 'justified' why he didn't put me on a bike at the end. He said budget is really all that matters, I could size you properly on any of these brands. True or not, I was the only guy in the store so it's not like he's busy!

Campione was closed unfortunately.

I emailed Ryan at Bow with a list of bikes to see what is in stock and when we can really sit down and try a bunch of bikes and maybe seal this thing up. Hopefully by the weekend, weather permitting, I'll have a new ride!

msommers
03-22-2011, 07:01 PM
This is turning more into my blog than a cycling thread!

After researching bikes in my budget for almost 2 full days, swaying between carbon and aluminum, gearsets, wheelsets etc I finally decided on a bike. To me, it was either high end aluminum or low-tier carbon. There is an advantage to carbon, but for me to really get into what I wanted to get into, I would have had to spend another grand. From reading as well, the Cannondale aluminum design of the rear stay is quite comfortable and one of the best out there.

Well talk is cheap so here she is! CAAD10 5 105. Fuck am I ever excited! Honestly, may more than when I bought my mountain bike.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c159/matt_calgary/IMG00182-20110322-1824.jpg

I'm waiting until the weekend to buy pedals and shoes but I have them picked out already. Shoes I ended up going with a MTB type instead of road. There will be walking and I don't want to have to deal with road shoes, by the sounds of it.

:thumbsup:

bigboom
03-23-2011, 09:52 AM
Yeah the big difference between mtn and road shoes is that with mountain the cleat is recessed in the shoe where as with road type the cleat is exposed and makes you walk on an angle. For your first clipless pedal I'd highly reccomend some Crank Brother pedals, they are really easy to get in and out of and allow you to have the most amount of float.

The CAAD 10 is a great choice, its a very popular bike amongst roadies, especially crit riders. I was thinking of picking up one to ride in some crits this year.

swak
03-23-2011, 10:17 AM
Good job man!! Sweet bike, I ride the 2009 version of that, and its stiff and fast!
If I can, I'd try to talk youout of mtn pedals, but its your call (road cleats are the equivalent to walking in high heel shoes on backwards).

Again, good work dude.

msommers
03-23-2011, 10:39 AM
Thanks guys. Maybe I'll try road shoes on the weekend and see how bad it is. I had Spec Pro MTB shoes picked out as the heel fit the best of all them (most expensive...coincidence?). Also, I don't see Crank Brothers on Bow's site. Where can I grab those?

What kind of shorts are you guys rockin? There is a pair on the MEC website that seem well reviewed.

phreezee
03-23-2011, 10:57 AM
I freakin hate my road shoes, actually slipped and fell on marble floors in a lobby one time... so embarrassing.

I actually picked up some mountain shoes and pedals today on nashbar.com.

Wheelsets make a difference at elite levels, but an aero-helmet will give you a greater gain at a much lower price... you'll just look like a space-man lol.

phreezee
03-23-2011, 11:00 AM
Sportchek is clearing out some older jerseys I hear, check out your closest store for inventory. Cheap as in $20.

swak
03-23-2011, 11:03 AM
Lol. Another thing... DO NOT wear an aero helmet unless you're in a time-trial or triathalon. You'll look like a tool otherwise.

And for road shoes, the shoes without the cleats will feel the same, but with road cleats on a road bike, you'll get a greater power transfer and feel more confident once you're all locked in..

Either way, good that you're going clipless though

bigboom
03-23-2011, 01:16 PM
Originally posted by phreezee

Wheelsets make a difference at elite levels, but an aero-helmet will give you a greater gain at a much lower price... you'll just look like a space-man lol.

uhhh only tri and tt riders wear aero helmets...

crank brothers you can get at MEC or the bike shop.

msommers
03-23-2011, 02:33 PM
Ha ya I have a helmet I'll likely use for awhile. I have a pair of mtb shorts that might work but the lyvcra shorts are on sale all weekend, or a pair at mec seem alright.

Trying to think of other little things I'll need but only a patch kit comes to mind.

phreezee
03-23-2011, 02:37 PM
^ it was just a comment on how the salesman talking wheelsets with him was just trying to get more money out of him. Obviously if he's buying his first road bike, he's not concerned with expensive wheelsets or aero-helmets.

Anyway, these are the pedals I bought today:

Ritchey Logic Comp V4 SE Mountain Bike Pedals $35
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_507923_-1_202669_10000_202841


There are some good shoes on sale also, mtn or road.

msommers
03-23-2011, 09:06 PM
Do any of you guys have computers strapped to yours? I wouldn't mind a very basic one just to tell distance. Or do you guys prefer the ones that measure cadence (although I really have no idea how it does that).

Example, this basic one at MEC
http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442623583&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302693003

swak
03-23-2011, 10:40 PM
PM'd...

But magnets is pretty much the technology haha..
From personal experience, please stay away from "CatEye" products. They're affordable, but that's about it.
Go Polar, Garmin, or Suunto.

phreezee
03-23-2011, 11:14 PM
All the Filzer ones at MEC are crap.
Even the more expensive "German" brand, but China made ones suck. This is the one I have lol.

I recently bought a Garmin 305 for GPS, speed, and HR monitoring. You can buy an additional cadence monitor. Everything is Ant+.