View Full Version : Maxx Mazda's 2011 Build Thread

Maxx Mazda
05-12-2011, 06:37 PM
Well, the time has come to revamp the P5. Got bored of the old setup, so I decided to tear it all down and go for something new. Engine is being rebuilt again with CP 8.5:1 custom oversize pistons, Pauter rods, custom built head with oversize valves, and Integral stage 3 cams, etc. The turbo setup may stay the same, I really like my manifold. The Haltech is getting a bit of a revamp, as well as a few new gauges. Basically, the whole powertrain will be torn down, inspected, and rebuilt, making improvements where I can. This is going to be a big build. I'm going to keep a few of my plans "secret" for now, but I will reveal them in due time.

The car has been in storage since August 19, 2008. Over two years since this thing has seen the road. The engine was removed last summer, and torn down, and parts cataloged. You can see what I mean when I say this car is getting a thurough once over. Teardown and planning isn't really all that exciting, so i decided not to document it here, but I will commence with the rebuild.

Few days ago, I decided to get cracking on the transmission, I have a spare built the same, but this one is going in the car. Tore it down, cleaned and inspected everything. The transmission features a welded MSP LSD, GTX 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears, revised shift forks, and the '03.5 updated synchros. All bearings and bushings checked out, and the gearset shafts were shimmed right on the tight side of Mazda's spec to ensure they don't spread apart under load, as I'm not running straight cut gears. This step, although crucial is a TOTAL pain in the ass, and requires some special tools to do properly.

While I was in there, I decided to mount a sensor for a transmission temperature gauge. There isn't much room in there in a spot where the sensor will be submurged in the transmission oil, but I did manage to find what I consider an ideal spot, just below the main shift linkage shaft. There is a small "indent" that will allow for an Autometer sensor, and not interfere with anything. This is in the bottom of the case, and will keep the sensor submurged. On the outside, it does not interfere wit hthe lower chassis crossmember, although it is close.

Drilled an appropreate sized hole, and tapped it for 1/8" NPT:



You can see the "perfect" indent:


Sensor installed, teflon tape was applied. Looks like a good fit:



The shift linkage shaft is reinstalled, and there is plenty of clearance on all sides:



The rest of the assembly was unremarkable, I've only done this about 15 times...




Maxx Mazda
05-12-2011, 06:38 PM
A teaser shot to show the new gauge layout. From left to right:

Water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, EGT, wideband, boost/vac, fuel pressure, transmission temp. Also moved the TurboXS knocklite up to the column pod, but more details on this later.



Maxx Mazda
05-12-2011, 06:38 PM
Few new goodies.

Got the crank back from the machine shop, polished up and freshly balanced:



I forgot I had this thing, but dug out my DocB oil pump, with external regulator. All bearings will be Clevite.




Integral Cams stage 3 turbo cams, the specs on these things are outta this world.



CP custom pistons. 8.5:1 CR, and they're flat-topped, not domed like the Arias ones I used to run. This should work with the head and squeeze all combustion gasses towards the middle of the cylinder.



626 intake manifold. Ported, VTCS removed, EGR blocked, and a block off plate added. You can see the big threaded hole for my Haltech air temperature sensor. having it directly in the manifold will give the most accurate reading.



Preview shot of the turbo setup:


Throttle body, stock IAC valve removed. A haltech stepper is used instead.



Maxx Mazda
05-12-2011, 06:39 PM
A few shots of the block, sorry its dusty it's been sitting for awhile! Hot tanked, bore honed, casting flash removed, and the mains were align honed. The block will be masked and bead blasted, then sprayed silver. I'm bored of the black.






I didn't like how my FMIC used to sit, so I fabbed up some new brackets, notched the bumper and moved it up, leveled and centered it. Painted the brackets black so that once the bumper is on, the FMIC has that "floating" look. It almost fills the entire lower grill opening, and since the main rebar support was not cut, crash integrity was not compromised.



My underhood wire tuck is coming along nicely. The entire factory harness was stripped right back to the ECU. I took apart the entire harness, and de-pinned (NOT cut) the stock ECU connector to remove everything non-essential. By non-essential I mean anything not required to run the factory gauge cluster. The stock harness was cut down to about 10 wires, the rest go to the haltech.

There will be three main "trunk lines." All three eminate from the pass through in the firewall. One trunk runs to the drivers side, and then splits off, one to the fuse box (this is not being relocated, I like the accessibility) the other runs to all engine connections, directly behind the engine. The final trunk runs to the passenger side, down past the washer bottle, and it too splits off to feed things like the CMP sensor, CKP sensor, RA-10, thermocouple, methanol pump, etc.

A tertiary trunk was also run under the rad support for things like rad fans, A/C compressor, headlights, etc. This line runs to the fuse box. I will explain this system in more detail as time passes, but I'm excited about it.

A pic of a couple connectors I managed to finish:


Inside, an entire revamp took place. I didn't go to the level that Brian did, I still use this car everyday in the summer, I saw no need to create my own wiring for tail lights, etc. For the most part, apart from cruise, all non-engine related systems are left as is. (Power windows, locks, lighting, etc.) For everything I've added, IE the Haltech, gauges, etc, I decided to add a standalone power source, so as to not "tap into" any factory connections. I installed a Painless fuse panel, powered directly from the battery, and installed junction blocks for each system. There is a wire run directly form the hot side of the battery, through a 100A circuit breaker, to the fuse block. A seperate ground was run to the metal bracket beside the box, and an ignition wire from the relay. From there, I ran seperate circuits to three banks of gauges, the shift light, turbo timer, etc. To keep everything modular, junction blocks were used under the dash, for power, ground, and seperate signals for the gauges. All connections were soldered, heat shrinked, and sealed, then wrapped just like stock into their own harness. The end result is something I'm VERY satisfied with, everything has its own harness, is completely modular, and will be extremely easy to diagnose should there be a problem.

Aux fuse panel, drivers side:


100A circuit breaker:


Example showing gauge signal junction block. Water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, trans temp:


Rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder:



And as I was going through old parts, found some AWR trailing links I completely forgot about stuffed under my storage cabinet!


Maxx Mazda
05-12-2011, 06:40 PM
Sorry its been awhile since the last update guys, I've had a LOT going on outside the garage. Still waiting on some of the more "major" parts before the build can REALLY get moving, but I made some progress on the block today.

Took it out, degreased, scrubbed, and rinsed it really well. Blew the entire block dry with compressed air, and smeared all the vital areas with a thin coat of oil to keep the rust away for now.

Prepped and masked the block, and sprayed it silver this time around. Used DupliColor Engine Enamel, 3 coats of silver, 2 coats of clear. Added a few detail touches like the "FS" lettering. I think it turned out pretty good.






The holes I didn't mask were all chased with the proper sized metric tap to make sure they are down to bare metal and the bolts can be installed freely.



Maxx Mazda
05-12-2011, 06:40 PM
The block as it comes stock, has an oil pressure fitting threaded with a 1/8 BSPT (British standard pipe taper) which features 28 threads per inch. Most aftermarket oil pressure sensors are threaded in 1/8 NPT (national pipe taper) which has 27 threads per inch. Not a big difference, and most of the time the two are interchangeable for the first quarter inch or so, but rather than use a BSPT to NPT adapter, I decided to tap the block itself to a 1/8NPT size. Tapping cast iron is a bit tricky, but use lots of lube and go slow and it can be done.

Showing BSP vs NPT:


Tapping out to NPT:


Some might argue this was pointless, but I like to do things right.

Maxx Mazda
05-12-2011, 06:41 PM
Picked up the head today. Supertech 1mm oversized valves, dual valve springs, and titanium retainers. Valve seats re-cut, a serious port job was performed, and the head was decked and reconditioned.



Exhaust side:


Intake side:


Maxx Mazda
05-12-2011, 06:42 PM
Took some measurements today with regards to the pistons and block. My machine shop already did this for me, just wanted to double check as best I could. Normally, you'd perform this measurement at three points down the length of the bore, but for today's purposes I just used the top as the cylinders were just honed and have no taper.

Spec sheet from CP showing the measurements we're after:


It was hard to hold this and take a pic at the same time, but as you can see the piston is bang on:


Onto the cylinders, I know it's upside-down, but again, 3.2870", bang on. All 4 pipes checked out the same.


A little off topic, but this is why I decided to wo with CP pistons this time around. My LAST 4 sets of Arias were destroyed. Each of these pistons is from a different set:





Maxx Mazda
05-12-2011, 06:43 PM
Setup the head today and took lash measurements. The key to this process is to document everything. Excuse my messy notepad, but it works for me. Got all the parts cleaned up, and removed the shims from the buckets. Because I'm installing new cams, the position they were in previously with my old cams is irrelevant. I started by taking a baseline measurement of the actual clearance, with the cams installed, measured on the backside of the lobes with the lobes straight up, as per the FSM. Stock Mazda lash spec is 0.225mm-0.295mm. The specs provided with my Integral cams lists a cold lash spec of 0.011"-0.012". (0.28mm-0.30mm) I'm choosing to shim to the looser side of spec, of 0.30mm final valve clearance.


Parts all layed out, and shim thickness recorded based on where I installed it.


On some of the shims, the etched measurement on the backside had worn away, so I had to measure their thickness manually:


Check the hotness! Integral Stage 3 turbo cams, all lubed up and torqued down:


After all measurements were taken and documented, I can take it back apart, order my shims, and then re-install and measure it all over again. Here's my chicken scratch:


For the cams themselves, I'm very excited. The specs on these things are insane. Combined with the oversized valves, and ported head, there will be no shortage of air entering or exiting these combustion chambers. The idle will have a noticeable "lope" to it. I'm hoping the car will start with my Haltech map from when the JDM cams were installed, so I can at least get it running to re-tune.

Here's what 0.371" of intake lift looks like! If I remember correctly these cams will now make my FS an "interference" engine. This is nearly 3/8" of lift!



A pencil is used for scale:


Now a look at the exhaust side. 0.371" as well:




Maxx Mazda
05-12-2011, 06:43 PM
Well, it's been a LONG time since my last update! I was in Europe for a couple weeks getting my travel on, so I hadn't touched the car in awhile!

Made a bit of progress today, mostly small stuff. Did alot of runnign around town picking up parts, ordering stuff, etc.

Welded on an AN-10 male fitting for the return line of my external oil pressure regulator. The DocB setup, as some of you have heard of, uses a special coating inside the oil pump to increase its available pressure, even after extended hard running, and the stock (feeble) oil pressure regulator is removed. A Peterson external oil pressure regulator is run. It has a raw input from the pump that will now be putting out well over 100psi, an out to the engine, and a bypass line where all the excess pressure is released back into the MBSP to keep the oil pressure where I have it set at. Oil pressures of 50psi at hot idle are easily obtainable with this setup, and will ensure that my engine has a long and happy life, with no risk of oil starvation.

Welded bung: (It's not pretty, but it's solid and doesn't leak!)



Where the oil will be returned from the regulator:


The regulator: (on the right)


FunkyBuddha hooked me up with a 626 valve cover. Since I no longer have any wires running over the valve cover whatsoever, I can remove the standoffs, as well as the two on the front edge of the cover:


Standoffs removed. The rearward one goes right through to the inside of the cover, so it's not possible to remove it completely, but I may weld it up and smooth it out tomorrow.


I'll be using the 1.8 coil bracket. I modified it by grinding off the extra plate that's used to mound all the stock solenoids and stuff.


Picked up a Cometic head gasket while I was out today. 0.040" thickness.


Maxx Mazda
05-12-2011, 06:44 PM
In coming up with a more "permanent" solution to the PCV issue, I went shopping for fittings at the local shop today. When combined with Sig's sealed catch can, I should have an airtight path for the blowby to flow and collect. The "suction" side of the PCV system will be relocated to its own bung in the intake manifold, and the two top nipples will be capped. They simply don't flow enough for my new setup. -8 AN lines will be used in the whole system. Once the system is complete, air will be drawn in from a breather in the side of the valve cover, through the passages and baffles inside the valve cover, down through the crankcase, and then drawn up and out of the cover through the main bung in the center. If you don't know how the stock PCV system functions, read up on it. If you do, that should have made perfect sense.

Originally, I wanted to just tap and thread in a 1/2"NPT to -8 connector into the valve cover. As you can see, because of the hex head, contact will be made with the cover, and it is not pissible to thread it in all the way. I had thought about grinding the cover down for clearance, but there just isn't enough "meat" on the cover there to make me feel comfortable. So, onto plan B.


As you can see, with the nut "squared up" clearance is had.


I purchased a -8 Union fitting, with a bulkhead nut:


I enlarged the hole very slightly, and dropped the union through. In order the thread the nut on the backside, I had to clearance it just a C-hair:


To ensure a seal, I used a rubber washer on each side of the valve cover:


its' VERY hard to see, but look closely. I filled the compartment with water to test for leaks. The rubber washers work great, and no leaks were found!


The union end is FAR too long to fit under the internal cover, so I just ground it off, leaving enough to have decent threads, but not to much so as to impede flow, or sit in any liquid oil thats trapped in the baffles.


What the finished bung looks like on the top side:


I removed the bung again, and got to sandblasting stuff. Crushed walnut shells work great on aluminum. Before:





Was able to fill some imperfections with some high temp epoxy. I didn't take pics, but I sanded and primed this after and it turned out great!


Painted the windage tray after I gave it a good sandblasting:



Painted my coil bracket:


Got to cleaning all the nuts and bolts. Believe me when I say that tedious does not describe this task! All bolts were run through the die, and wire brushed after being soaked in solvent. Before:




Coils installed in the bracket:


My parts table. Everything is bagged or in containers, labeled and clean. I've got about 4 more boxes under the table:


What I'll be using for engine sealant. Permatex grey is the best on the market in my opinion, and is the very stuff Mazda used on your car at the factory. This stuff ain't cheap, it's about twice the cost of the black stuff, but in my experience it dries a lot harder, and is easier to apply:


That's it for tonight!

Maxx Mazda
05-12-2011, 06:44 PM
Today I got off work early, so I decided to get some of the more mundane tasks out of the way.

Painted the valve cover. The letters will be polished. Three coats of engine enamel, and 2 coats of clear:


Next step was to "dry fit" the block together, and measure all bearing clearances. I use green plastigauge for the FS engine. Crank bearings installed:


Crank dropped in dry DO NOT SPIN IT! And main caps torqued, with plastigauge in place:



Don't forget to use ARP moly lube on all ARP fasteners to achieve the proper torque values:


Next the rod bearings were installed with the plastigauge, and torqued as well:


Our clearance range for the rods is 0.0010"-0.0025".


After the caps were all removed, we can take a clearance measurement. This rod bearing has 0.0015" clearance. Right in the middle where we want to be:


The same procedure was followed for the mains. 0.0020" on this example, which despite being outside our "standard clearance" (but only just) is still well below the maximum clearance.



My notepad showing the measurements for all measured bearings:


All bearings and caps were cleaned, labeled, and put away again until I'm ready to assemble the engine.

What does this all mean? That once assembled, I will have a rock solid rotating assembly, that should give me thousands of trouble-free boosted miles. Some builders avoid this measurement step and just slap the engine together because it's a very time consuming process. The whole endeavour took me about 2.5 hours. I now have the peace of mind in knowing that all this machine work has paid off.

Maxx Mazda
05-12-2011, 06:45 PM
Finished up the valve cover today. Sanded the lettering down with 400, 800, then 2000 grit. Then polished the lettering with Mother's aluminum polish. The pics don't do it justice, the letters have a mirror finish!





Installed the PCV bung. Used locktite on the nut to ensure it will not come off. Looks pretty good if you ask me.








Reinstalled the baffles and installed a new gasket.


Maxx Mazda
05-16-2011, 07:54 PM
Put the oil pump together today. Packed it with grease to help create a vacuum on first startup, and coated all the internal parts with oil as well. Torqued the cover on properly.



Gapped the piston rings as well. As per CP's reccomendation for my application, the top ring was gapped to 0.018" and the second ring to 0.025". Remember to use your ring file from the outside in, and de-burr the rings with some 400 grit once filing is done.



All rings were bagged and numbered based on the cylinder they were fit to, so that assembly can begin tomorrow morning.


Maxx Mazda
05-17-2011, 07:05 PM
Got the engine together today. Picked up all my Mazda parts, basically every gasket in the engine is new, new oil squirters, valve shims, and some other stuff:


Even though the block was clean, I wanted to clean it again for good measure. Outside it went for a good scrub:


Once inside, the block was meticulously dried with a blow gun. Took me about 20 minutes - no joke. This is about halfway through:


When building an engine, you can't be clean enough. The garage floor was wet to keep dust down, and I put on a fancy pants clean lab coat and rubber gloves. I use Federal Mogul for my assembly lube of choice:


With the block clean and dry, i installed the bearings and thrust washers, lubed everything profusely, and installed the crank:


Using ARP moly lube, the main caps were installed and torqued using a 3 step procedure, in the proper sequence. I checked to make sure the crank spun freely - it did! Also checked crankshaft thrust play, it was within limits.


The rings were installed onto the pistons, and the bearings into the rods:


Hard to see, but when installing the wristpins, make sure the circlip opening does no coincide with the opening:


Pistons installed onto their rods, ringed, bearing'd, ready to go in.


The pistons were given an oil bath:


Using a ring compressor and the tail of a plastic mallet, the piston is tapped into the cylinder. I don't know why, but everytime I build an engine, I find the feeling of this step to be very satisfying when the piston finally drops into place.


All 4 pistons in, and torqued onto the crank using PLENTY of assembly lube. Excuse the gunk left from the mallet handle. It's cleaned later.



4 new oil jets, ready to be pressed into place:


#1 oil jet pressed in, and clearanced properly from both the piston and the crank.



Jets #1 and #2 in position:


All 4 jets pressed in and clearanced:


Next, I like to button up the bottom end before putting the head on. I started with the oil pump. New O-rings were used, and a new main seal was installed. Silicone applied and torqued down:



Maxx Mazda
05-17-2011, 07:08 PM
I was able to sneak the rear main seal on with the engine still on the stand:


Next up is the MBSP, silicone applied:


MBSP torqued down, oil pickup installed. Although I am using the AWR oil pan, I DO NOT use the spacer as it's too long and will end up smooshing the pickup. As it sits, the screen JUST touches the bottom of the pan.




Oil pan installed and torqued down:



Topside all cleaned up:


Cometic head gasket installed over the ARP studs


Final look at the head:


Head on and torqued following a 3 stage process, using the sequence described in the shop manual. I'm glad I went with a silver block!



That's as far as I got today, didn't end up starting until noon. Tomorrow I should have all the ancillary stuff bolted up, and the engine done.

05-17-2011, 09:04 PM
Mazda's are not really my cup of tea per say but your attention to detail on this build is going to make this car unbelievable.

Good work! :bigpimp:

Maxx Mazda
05-17-2011, 09:15 PM
Originally posted by bruceod
Mazda's are not really my cup of tea per say but your attention to detail on this build is going to make this car unbelievable.

Good work! :bigpimp:

Thank you!

05-17-2011, 09:46 PM
page took a while to load, soo many pics.
well worth the wait!

05-17-2011, 10:31 PM
The amount of time it took you to measure and torque, and than re-torque everything makes me forgive the company who built my block for taking so long.
It really is a time intense process...nice work.

05-17-2011, 11:09 PM

Maxx Mazda
05-18-2011, 06:46 PM
Well, I'm STILL waiting on valve shims, they didn't come in today. The parts guy forgot to order them on my long grocery list I guess, so the engine sits unfinished... Piss me off! Anyway, I decided to bolt up what I could.

Bolted on the water neck, thermostat housing, water pump, A/C bracket...


Timing belt tensioner and pulley, crank position sensor...


And on the backside, the oil to water MSP oil cooler, alternator bracket, knock sensor, oil pressure sender, and oil filter adapter plate.


I was going to have my Signature oil catch can powdercoated, but I decided to paint it instead. One of the better jobs I've done, the pics don't do it justice! It is SHY-NEEEE!!!




For those that don't know this can is a sealed unit, with a built in check valve, that will allow blowby to enter the can under vacuum only. This is why I went with an AN fitting in place of the stock PCV valve, as this in essence now becomes my PCV valve. This is NOT just a vent can.

Hopefully my parts are in tomorrow, so I can get this head all done and get the engine timed!

Maxx Mazda
05-19-2011, 06:57 PM
Only had a bit of time to work on it today, my valve shims are STILL not in.

Decided to remount my Haltech RA-10 reluctor adapter on the firewall. The RA-10 takes the analog reluctor signals from my cam position sensor (home) and crank position sensor (trigger) and converts the analog sine wave signal into a much cleaner square wave "digital" signal, that is now output directly to my Haltech E6X standalone as a hall effect signal. The Haltech can use a reluctor signal directly, but having the RA-10 will provide a very clean interference free signal at even extreme RPM's.

You'll notice I changed it from the ugly silver that Haltech sells it in, to a much nicer matte black. All wires were crimped into new pins, and then heatshrinked individually:


Then the bundle was loomed, and one big piece of heat shrink was used to seal it all off:


Yes, this is probably more work than is ever nessicary, but there is no such thing as "too good" for me. I'm keeping this build top-notch. A ground wire was run to a standoff directly below the unit. I made sure to strip the paint to ensure a good connection. The ground wire was heatshrinked as well.

The finished product. Can't hardly notice it? Good. That's the point.


Maxx Mazda
05-20-2011, 09:40 PM

Maxx Mazda
05-21-2011, 07:47 PM
Well, the engine is DONE! Blueprinted and assembled, ready to drop in the car.

Recieved my last valve shims so I could finish it off. Needed a total of 14 shims, at close to $9 each, you do the math...


New shims are nice because the measurement hasn't worn off yet.


New shims installed in the correct locations. This is where my previous meticulous note taking comes in handy in speeding up the re-assembly. Everything was coated liberally with assembly lube.


Cams in, and caps torqued down, we can rotate the cams to the correct position and double check our clearances again. Remember, we're looking for 0.009"-0.0012", aiming for the looser side of spec. All shims checked out within spec!


Completed head. Remember to use silicone sealant on the end caps.



Fresh cam seals were pressed in, and the engine timed. The 626 exhaust cam gear is shown, having only one home pickup, vs. 3 on the stock intake cam gear:

NOTE: The second picture shows the engine timed incorrectly. (Obviously the timing was rectified after taking this pic.)



Don't forget the silicone before installing the valve cover!


And finally...

The Completed Engine:




Both cam and crank position sensors are routed to the same area, so that my new engine bay harness will be very discreet.


That's all for now, have a good long weekend everybody!

Maxx Mazda
05-28-2011, 06:46 PM
So, in looking for a solution for idle control, I was thinking of going with the Haltech stepper motor. I used to have the Haltech control the stock BAC idle solenoid, but I needed that output for another use, so I decided to go with the stepper.

I don't like how the Haltech is a remote mounted unit. Kinda hokey in my opinion, and as such it does not belong on my car. The "haltech" idle solenoid and housing, are in fact just a standard GM screw in type IAC valve and Electromotive billet housing. The GM IAC valve was used on countless GM cars from the mid 80's until 2005. Very popular unit. Robust, cheap, and it works. During this time period, GM used two types of IAC stepper motors. Both the same internally, one was a screw in type:


And the other was the "O-Ring" type:


Again, both are the same internally, but along with mounting types, each one also has a different wire connector, both 4 pin.

Anyway, I wanted a more "stock" looking IAC solution than some cheezy box with hoses and barbs. I wanted to mount the IAC in the stock location, and use the bypasses already present within the throttle body. I could either fab up an adapter to mount the screw in type, or experement with the O-Ring type. I procured an IAC valve of the "O-Ring" type from a '91 Cavalier 2.8L throttle body I had lying around.



Cavalier IAC block and mount:


Here is the stock Mazda IAC housing, with the stock solenoid removed. Notice any similarities between the mounting holes for the solenoid, and the mounting points for the stepper motor?


A quick fit of the Mazda BAC valve onto the GM IAC block confirms that the holes line up perfectly.


With the stepper motor almost fully extended, we can see that the Mazda housing isn't quite "deep" enough:


So, after some clever fab work, I came up with an interface piece made out of a spare block of PVC I had laying around:


Believe it or not, I came up with another ingenious solution. The gasket for a T3 block style oil feed line fits PERFECTLY as well! It will need a little trimming around the outside.


Now the valve will close fully at around 70% extension, and at fully retracted still leaves plenty of room for bypass air. No doubt I'll have to adjust the available steps and set my throttle base opening position, but other than that, I came up with a great (stock) looking IAC valve, for a grand total of $3. (Had to buy longer screws to mount through the block.) Please note this a VERY rough fit, and will be cleaned up and made to look much better before it's considered finished.

Maxx Mazda
05-30-2011, 08:57 PM
A few shots of the finished throttle body with the GM IAC stepper motor in place. Like I had hoped, it looks stock!




Maxx Mazda
05-31-2011, 07:35 PM
Got a LOT done today! The deadline is Sunday the 12th to have the car out of the garage for moving day.

Picked up a set of plugs, as always BKR7E's. I gap to 0.040"


My hard to come by 1/2" NPT tap came in from ebay, so I drilled and tapped the intake manifold for the PCV vacuum line:


I tried about 9 times to get this right, couldn't get the camera to focus on the deep part of the manifold, macro or not. So, you can see my Haltech IAT sensor, and the PCV bung.


External view of both on the bottom of the intake manifold:


Test fit of the manifold. As I had hoped, everything is hidden and looks stock! (Espesially that IAC!)



Got the coils installed, and new wires. Do you have any idea how hard it is to find black plug wires for this car? Everything was either blue, grey, or yellow. I could have gone with red Magnecor ones, but I thought that would be a little much. Had to modify the coil bracket slightly as well to clear my turbo manifold. It's still close, so I'll install some heat shielding on the underside of the bracket.



Now comes the fun stuff! Had to get this entire oil system laid out, it was driving me nuts. Mounted the remote filter adapter up by the strut tower, so it's not a bitch to change. The blue nipple seen there will be the turbo oil feed, and the other open port will house a secondary oil pressure gauge, so it's right under the hood for me to see when I set the external pressure regulator. I had to fab up a bracket to mount it where my cruise used to be. Believe it or not, stuff like that takes close to an hour:


After building another bracket to mount my new sealed catch can, I was struggling to find a place to mount the external PRV. I needed it to be sano, but still somewhere that I can access it realatively easily. On a stroke of genius, I decided to fab up yet another bracket:


...And mount it alongside the catch can!



Also, got my Fidanza 7lb flywheel today:


And finally, one last shot of the engine:


So the ACT clutch that I ordered is on backorder (note to sellers, I should not have to call you to find out why my shit hasn't been shipped yet. Thanks for wasting a week of my time...) So I called ACT, and it's on backorder from them for 4-6 weeks. A call to Clutchmasters had a brand new FX400 6 puck on it's way to me for Friday delivery here in Canada. (Shipping ALONE was $190!)

I originally wanted a CM clutch anyways, but found an awesome deal on the ACT, so I went with that. Moral of the story, always stick with your first choice!

Maxx Mazda
06-02-2011, 09:17 PM
Well, my clutch showed up today. Overnight from Japan.

Seriously though, overnighted from California. HUGE props to the guys at ClutchMasters for getting this together and shipping it out so quickly!

Here it is, the FX400 6 puck sprung race clutch:


Heavy duty pressure plate, good for 470Lb ft. If this thing starts to slip on me, I've got bigger problems than a clutch.


Fidanza flywheel on, cleaned and torqued, adapter plate on, and clutch disc on and centered.


Throwout bearing installed and greased:


Here she is torqued down:


Transmission on, the engine is ready to go back into the car:



Up and over:


And, may I present, for the first time since August 8, 2008 (Just realized, 8/8/08. Huh...) The engine is back in the car!



As they say, it's all downhill from here!

06-02-2011, 10:20 PM
amazing build man. Took me 20mins to read everything from start to finish. great inspiration!

06-02-2011, 10:24 PM
This thread is awesome, nice work!

Maxx Mazda
06-05-2011, 08:45 PM
Started to plumb the oil system tonight. $400 worth of braided line and AN fittings. This is just about all the fittings:


Rather than stainless braided line (fugly) I went with some black fabric braided stuff. The Red accents look nice too. Started by mocking up the fittings, then cutting and running the lines. Everything is only finger tight, will be gronched down tomorrow:


The oil comes OUT of the block, IN to the bottom of the regulator, OUT the top of the regulator, IN to the bottom of the filter adapter (see note below) OUT of the oil filter, back IN to the engine. Hope that makes sense. Excuse the dusty engine bay. Sitting without a hood for two years will do that.


NOTE: It is VERY important that you get the lines right on your remote oil filter adapter. They are directional! Putting the lines in backwards will cause the backflow preventer in the filter to stop oil flow, and starve your engine of oil! This is why I did not run the line IN to the top of the filter adapter which would have looked nicer I'm sure.

Not run yet, there will be a line OUT from the regulator, IN to the windage tray for the excess pressure relief.

With the intake manifold on, there is lots of clearance. The hoses fit in between the IAT sensor and the PCV bung:


Without the flash, so you can see that everything looks very clean, and tidy. The pressure regulator is nice and easy to get to, as are the catch can and oil filter.


Tomorrow will be a BIG day as far as progress. Stay tuned!

Maxx Mazda
06-06-2011, 07:42 PM
Well, made some SERIOUS progress today. I'd say the car is now about 90% complete.

Finished the oil system, got everything plumbed and tightened down. Here's a shot of the bypass return ot the windage tray:


Up the side of the engine. It looks much closer than it actually is, there is a good 2.5" between the hose and the belt.


So, I suppose now is as good a time as any to finally take the wraps off my complete rewire, and explain it a little bit. There is one main "Trunk" line, with 3 main "branches" off of it. The main trunk runs left to right, along the firewall. One branch is on the passenger side, and includes the cam sensor, crank sensor, EGT probe, fuel pressure sender (these all terminate at the engine) and then continues on to the front bumper area housing the A/C clutch wire, methanol pump wiring, etc.

What I call the "center branch" gomes out of the trunk directly behind the engine. This is a busy branch containing wiring for the injectors, coils, transmission, IAC, TPS, oil temp, oil pressure, water temp (stock, autometer, and Haltech) haltech IAT, wideband and narrowband, etc. The intent of having it come out directly behind the engine was to keep everything hidden, and as you'll see I think it was a success. The third branch is o nthe driver's side, and ties into the fuse box, battery, etc. A standalone fuse panel was added for all interior accessories (see first page.)

I relocated alot of sensors and harnesses where I could, basically rewired the entire engine bay. As you can see, it's MUCH cleaner now. Trans area:


Oil temp sensor:


Here the coolant sensors are not finished yet, but you can see the "throttle body" loom with the IAC motor wiring and the TPS.


So, because the coils sit so close to the exhaust manifold, I used some DEI heat reflective tape just in case.



The turbo manifold and downpipe on and tight:


With a LOT more shit bolted up now, I was on a roll and didn't stop to take pics. Intake mani on, wires run (I'm STILL not happy with the coil wires. I'll either redo them or make a shield to hide them.) Rad in, fuel rail on, more shit plugged in...


The injector wires come up through the middle of the manifold, and split out, instead of running the length of the VC like stock. VERY clean and tidy. You hardly notice them anymore.


Fuel rail plumbed, rad overflow in, intake pipes on, electrics done, turbo oil feed run, battery in... WHEW! What a task all this was!



Like I said, rather than cuto ver the valve cover, the sensors are now run fro mthe passenger side, and everything connects at that one corner. Very neat and tidy:


Another shot of the injector wiring - or lack of it!


So, what's left? Well, I have a few more intercooler pipes to tighten up, then a few misc. things to bolt on, finish plumb the PCV system, bleed clutch, filld liquids, etc. Shouldn't take too long.

The goal is to turn the key tomorrow!

I have all fluids ready to go, a few oil filters, etc. I'm a little concernicus about all the changes I've made as far as the Haltech is concerned, getting it started might be a little tricky. That combined with my new IAC motor, the agressive cams, everything. I hope all goes well and that there are no leaks!

06-07-2011, 05:21 PM
Sorry for sounding like a newb, whats the thing wit the TAL letters attached to your exhaust manifold?

06-07-2011, 09:19 PM
Originally posted by cycosis
Sorry for sounding like a newb, whats the thing wit the TAL letters attached to your exhaust manifold?

"TiAL" actually, it's a waste gate.

06-07-2011, 09:45 PM
crazy build for a protege!

wanted to add that in no way can you accurately measure the bore of a cylinder with a caliper. i would guess you do know this

Maxx Mazda
06-08-2011, 08:09 AM
Originally posted by legendboy
crazy build for a protege!

wanted to add that in no way can you accurately measure the bore of a cylinder with a caliper. i would guess you do know this

Of course. I do not have a dial bore gauge. The point of doing a quick check with the caliper was just to rule out any gross over or undersizing by the machine shop. I paid them to finish the bore to a certain diameter and they did. This was merely a confirmation of that fact. I think I even mentioned that in the post containing those pics.

Maxx Mazda
06-08-2011, 08:12 AM

Pics and details to come in the following days.

06-09-2011, 02:26 PM
Oh. My. God. Amazing work man. I can't imagine how satisfying it must feel to start it up for the first time.

Maxx Mazda
06-10-2011, 09:56 PM
The finished product:



I've got most issues worked out now, a few remain. Oil pressure is awesome after switching to Shell Rotella 15W-40 for the remainder of the break in. Idle pressure is 25psi, up to 75psi by 4,000RPM. Mint. Had a small exhaust leak, just needed to loosen the pipe joint, wiggle it and re-tighten. I'm not happy with the idle, the IAC is almost a little too sensitive. What I may do is build another block to space it our farther from the throttle body, giving the stepper motor more room to move in there. The charging light is on. I have the stock ECU still connected for two purposes only. Regulating the alternator, and running my stock gauge cluster. Believe it or not, disconnecting the stock IAT probe will cause the charging light to come on. Why Mazda thought it was realavent to link those two systems together is beyond me, but since I actually de-pinned the ECU connector but for about 10 wires, it will be very easy to reconnect the IAT sensor. I will leave it hidden under the ECU cover in the floorboards, since it now serves no purpose other than for voltage regulation. I will post findings after, but right now voltage at idle is 13.51V with it disconnected.

Other than that, it's purring like a kitten!

Oh yeah, here's a quick video I shot. It was cut short at the end. I filmed it with my phone and recieved a call just as I was about to wrap things up. I'll make a detailed one later on, but this should keep you guys happy for now I hope!


Maxx Mazda
06-14-2011, 04:45 PM
Washed the car and pulled it around front to snap some pics. Used my iPhone, but hope they satisfy the masses. Taken in front of the parent's new crib:


Is that an intercooler hiding in there?


Engine bay:


06-17-2011, 11:06 AM
Great job. Beauty engine-bay. Any plans to dyno it?

Sorry if you've already mentioned, I prolly missed it wading through all those awesome pics.

Maxx Mazda
06-17-2011, 11:34 AM
Of course a dyno is forthcoming once it's broken in. I put down 221WHP on 7psi with this setup a few years ago. Let's see what 30+ psi of boost does on 109 leaded gas.

06-17-2011, 12:38 PM
30psi:eek: wow

You did a great job on you mazda:thumbsup:

07-14-2011, 12:28 PM
Such a clean engine bay... gorgeous work

07-14-2011, 01:20 PM
Saw your car in the Oak a while ago. Looks shape.

Tram Common
07-23-2011, 05:14 PM
Unreal man. Absolutely brilliant.

Maxx Mazda
08-17-2011, 09:31 PM
Guys been awhile since an update. Car now has 3,000Km on the new engine, a few upgrades have been made. I'm currently running (a modest) 15psi, and this thing fucks right off. With al lthe upgrades done, 15psi feels like 22 did on the last build. I think it's mostly the head work and the cams. I've changed plugs once, and I'm now running Mobil1 15W-50 Synthetic now that the break-in is complete.

So, since the build was completed, I installed a new deck (unremarkable) re-did the fuel system (again) and completed the PCV system with the help of a second vented catch can thanks to forum member Signature Sound.

Here are a few pics of the various upgrades since the build.

Removed the intake side PCV nipple, and drilled and tapped for a -6AN fitting.


Drilled out the interior baffles as big as I could go for maximum flow:



A shot of the installed can with black fittings and line:



Although the stock 1:1 rising rate FPR is great, I broke mine trying to convert it to an AN fitting setup. Decided to say fuck it and go with an Aeromotive rising rate adjustable regulator. Mounted it to the firewall, and installed a pressure gauge. I realize that this gauge is a bit redundant (I have a liquid filled one right on the rail as well) but whatever. Ran -6 lines with all black fittings. The red accents on the line are a nice touch. The adapter for the perrin fuel rail was actually a spare oil feed fitting for a T4 style turbo that I had lying around. Bolted up perfectly, and the gasket worked like a charm.



Excuse the iPhone pics, but here is a shot of what I hope is the finished engine bay. 8 years in the making, and I think I can finally say that I'm happy with it:




08-17-2011, 09:57 PM
Sharp project! What are you anticipating for HP/TQ?

Maxx Mazda
08-17-2011, 10:17 PM
Originally posted by A790
Sharp project! What are you anticipating for HP/TQ?

I'll get it on the dyno before the season is done. Right now on 15psi it will roast the tires in 2nd and the top of 3rd, making it utterly useless until you're moving pretty good already. If I had to make a conservative estimate, I'd say close to 350HP at that boost level.

Maxx Mazda
11-03-2011, 11:17 PM
Limped it over to the shop without 3rd gear today, (my place is across town) and got it cleaned up. Jacked the car up, and put it on stands. Did a full engine shampoo and undercarriage wash (I get under there with a scrub brush, a creeper and a pressure washer.) Pressure washed all the door jambs, inside the rims, everything. You can eat off my suspension now.

Put the car down, washed thuroughly, clay barred, washed again, and 3 coats of Meguiar's NXT wax. Detailed the interior. I'm holding off on an oil change until I pull the trans next month, but tomorrow I'm adding some sta-bil and putting the cover on once it's parked in a back corner and jacked up and there it will sit until next year. Insurance is coming off this week.

Excuse the iPhone pics:


Not a bad shine for a 9 year old car huh?





11-05-2011, 01:17 AM
Jesus Christ that is one hot mazda. Good on ya for tackling a different project.

Always like updates on this thing.


Maxx Mazda
11-05-2011, 10:38 AM
Originally posted by ekguy
Jesus Christ that is one hot mazda. Good on ya for tackling a different project.

Always like updates on this thing.


Thanks! The protege platform has proven REALLY fun and rewarding to build on. It's got a bit of a "cult following" but I'm surprised it hasn't caught on a little more.

Maxx Mazda
11-05-2011, 10:48 AM
Couple pics of the interior detailed and ready for storage:






Picked up a cover for $19!


01-24-2012, 01:14 AM
jesus man! looks beautiful!

Maxx Mazda
01-24-2012, 05:43 AM
Thanks! Wait until you guys see what's in store for this year...

01-24-2012, 09:04 AM
Nice build thread and cool ride :bigpimp:

01-26-2012, 02:07 PM
Any plans for seats?

Maxx Mazda
01-26-2012, 03:43 PM
Not yet. One of the things I loved about the car when I bought it was the seats.

01-26-2012, 11:50 PM
It's really too bad that most of the Protege5s on the used market these days are rust buckets. They are great looking cars, very practical and fun to drive. I've always wanted one.

Maxx Mazda
05-12-2012, 09:50 PM
Well, the 2012 saga begins.

Pulled everything out of my garage (which is now 4 stalls smaller than it used to be) and cleaned the floor, and put stuff away neat and tidy:


Washed the Protege up for the first time in about 7 months:






Got the bikes put aside for now, and pulled her in for the "surgery"


Not a bad shine for a 10 year old car?


The teardown will start this week. Trans is coming apart, and there may be a surprise planned to replace it. Have to wait and see!

Maxx Mazda
08-20-2012, 05:40 PM
Well, there's your problem!




Maxx Mazda
09-25-2012, 09:54 AM
Tapered roller bearings are good at two things. They handle axial loads, as well as thrust loads. (The gears coming apart, and the tendency of the gears to also push "up" under high loads.)

Ball bearings, and straight roller bearings that matter are not designed for high thrust loads. This video illustrates what happens with helical gears when a high amount of resistance is applied. FF to 1:40


I've rebuilt more than half a dozen motorcycle transmissions, all use ball bearings. However, all also have straight cut gears. I'm not about to buy a full $7000 PAR gearbox, nor do I want to simply "drop in" say 3rd and 4th gear. I want to come up with a reliable, affordable solution to this damn transmission. Some are quick to point the finger at the actual integrity of the metal that makes up the gears. I disagree with this, Focus even did a hardness test on stock and GTX gears back in the day. The GTX gears were harder, but its not like either were made of spaghetti.

No, the problem lies with the fact that when stuffing 3-4 times the designed horsepower through the transmission, the design simply can't handle it, and that's what I've set out to remedy. I've decided that I WILL NOT RUN straight cut gears. Some may scoff at this, but this is not a "stripped down" race car. I want to keep my A/C, have a stereo, power steering, and a comfortable interior so I can take my family on a sunday drive through the mountains without my ears ringing. I guess you can say my tastes have "matured" somewhat, and I value an ounce of practicality along with performance.

The main issue here (C6 Z06 guys struggle with this too) is that the damn gears pull apart under that much load. The trick now is to come up with a fix for it. The PAR reinforcement cups in my opinion don't do much. They reinforce the area directly around the bearing race, but they don't add much to the case itself as far as structural rigidity. I came across this one piece plate that looks like it does a much better job:



Might look into something like this. Then again, what do you do about the other side of the shafts? The output shaft is pretty well supported, but I'd like to reinforce that pinion shaft somehow. The research continues...

12-29-2012, 12:54 AM
dammit, I hate catching up to the "end" of a cool thread...and realizing it's still a work in progress.

Like when I watched the first season, then half of the second season of The Wire. then I had to wait for a whole fucking week for every episode after that.


Maxx Mazda
12-29-2012, 09:41 AM
Rebuilding my truck right now instead. You can follow it. Search for "project white lightning"