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View Full Version : Questions about re-torquing your tires after a tire swap



CourneyRoss
06-15-2011, 10:22 AM
I know this is always needed within 100km after changing your tires/rims. But noobie question here, is this needed EVERY single time you pop off your tires?

For instance i get a new brake job, wheels come off....have to re-torque in 100km?

Also i watched my mech do it one time and all he did was take a wrench like tool to the 4 lug nuts on each of my tires and tightened them. Is that it? If so isnt this something we can do ourselves? what tools do i need?

teggyR
06-15-2011, 10:28 AM
its recommended if you have aluminum rims, although i'm pretty sure the average person doesn't even bother.. Buy a torque wrench, torque the lugs to the specified ft/lbs. done.

CourneyRoss
06-15-2011, 10:43 AM
Originally posted by teggyR
its recommended if you have aluminum rims, although i'm pretty sure the average person doesn't even bother.. Buy a torque wrench, torque the lugs to the specified ft/lbs. done.

I think my rims are alloy. Calgary puck has a thread that made me bring this up lol. Apparently your entire wheel and rim can come off if you dont do this?

schocker
06-15-2011, 10:50 AM
Well it probably won't but there is always the chance, so it is always a good idea to do so. Takes like two minutes to do anyways :dunno:

94boosted
06-15-2011, 11:01 AM
I'd say 98% people out there don't do this. It's good practice but you should be fine without it unless you race the car.

Tik-Tok
06-15-2011, 11:01 AM
Originally posted by CourneyRoss
I know this is always needed within 100km after changing your tires/rims. But noobie question here, is this needed EVERY single time you pop off your tires?

Is that it?
If so isnt this something we can do ourselves?
What tools do i need?

Yes.
Yes.
Yes.
Torque wrench, or Torque Sticks matching your manufacturers recommended torque setting.

EM1FTW
06-16-2011, 08:03 PM
if the wheels dont fall off backing out of the shop, they aren't going to imo

Supa Dexta
06-16-2011, 08:05 PM
Thinking about this, the only time I've seen rims come off, were steelies, after people got winters put on... Besides the odd semi I've seen do it.

BlackArcher101
06-16-2011, 08:17 PM
Originally posted by EM1FTW
if the wheels dont fall off backing out of the shop, they aren't going to imo

:facepalm:

bbcustoms
06-16-2011, 08:23 PM
Originally posted by EM1FTW
if the wheels dont fall off backing out of the shop, they aren't going to imo

Your opinion is a piece of shit.

Always re-torque

Twin_Cam_Turbo
06-16-2011, 08:23 PM
I check mine at least once a month regardless of what I do.

eglove
06-16-2011, 08:27 PM
Originally posted by Twin_Cam_Turbo
I check mine at least once a month regardless of what I do.

same here

BlackArcher101
06-16-2011, 08:32 PM
+3 ditto

RickDaTuner
06-16-2011, 08:35 PM
The mating surfaces of the wheel and hub are not always going to be 100% clean and machined as they were from the factory.
As a car is driven through rain, snow, and even just humid days, corrosion occurs between the wheel and the hub.

When you remove your tires you take one hub/wheel that has accumulated a perfect match to the wheel/hub at each corner, and then mash it against another surface matched to another wheel it leaves little gaps that allow the wheel nuts to seat at the normal torque setting.

But after you drive the car the lateral weight of taking turns braking starting, and what not, the mating surface gets some what compressed, or re-matched to each wheel/hub combo. This results in wheel being able to seat closer to the hub and reducing the torque setting of the wheel nuts.
The loss in most cases is only about 8-12 ft/lbs, but if you drive your car hard or race it, that loss translates into 20-35 ft/lbs which is enough to allow the nuts to back off.

All in all, do as everyone else has stated and re-torque them after 100kms

Stunt66
06-17-2011, 09:26 AM
Originally posted by EM1FTW
if the wheels dont fall off backing out of the shop, they aren't going to imo

I have a buddy who had his tires fall off twice on 2 differet rides, once on his jetta about 10 years ago and last month on his truck coming back from golden. The first time him and another buddy put some rims on and about an hour after he lost one of the fronts, luckily they were in a residential area and not going fast. The last time could have been bad because he was on the highway when he lost one of the rears, tire came off but he managed to slow it down safely, he ground down his back rotor pretty nicely too. He did have some work done to his brakes recently and the shop is covering labor for the damaged parts because it was hard to put anyone fully at fault. It's hard to say whether or not retorquing his wheels after 100kms would have prevented both accidents but its a super easy thing to do so why not.

Disoblige
06-17-2011, 09:38 AM
Originally posted by EM1FTW
if the wheels dont fall off backing out of the shop, they aren't going to imo
Thank god this is just your opinion.



If you don't re-torque, you are simply taking a chance. Some are luckier than others and if they happen to loosen up, you MIGHT be able to notice your wheel wobble before it's too late. Some not so lucky and your wheel flies off and you can say good bye to your side fenders and possible suspension damage :thumbsup:

I rather spend 2 minutes re-torquing IMO.

stevieo
06-17-2011, 12:51 PM
I had my lugs almost fall off once, I torqued them up but I was using the wrong measurements :facepalm: fail on my part haha. lucky I was coming out of wendy's one day and I noticed a lug nut on the snow in the parking lot where I parked...lo and behold it was from my wheel. all of them came loose, holy shit was it scary haha

zipdoa
06-17-2011, 01:17 PM
Had lugs back out slightly on my Passat a while back. Pretty hard not to notice the wheel wobble. IMO every DIY'er should have a couple torque wrenches in the toolbox.

n1zm0
06-17-2011, 01:33 PM
^ yep, and not that princess auto crap that skips teeth and signed out as certified by Billy Bob Bumfk, Crappy tires 1/2 inch ones go on sale for almost half price sometimes and with lifetime warranty, also remember when you store it for a while, uncoil it back down to zero unless its digital of course


Originally posted by Disoblige
Thank god this is just your opinion.


i've seen a complacent coworker put rims back on after a long day of winter tire removals, just hand tightened on the hoist free of friction, it went out around the block and 3/4 wheels ended up wobbling so bad the threaded studs were smoothed out.

zipdoa
06-17-2011, 02:37 PM
Originally posted by n1zm0
^ yep, and not that princess auto crap that skips teeth and signed out as certified by Billy Bob Bumfk, Crappy tires 1/2 inch ones go on sale for almost half price sometimes and with lifetime warranty, also remember when you store it for a while, uncoil it back down to zero unless its digital of course


Didn't even think about uncoiling it. Good point. Torque wrench is useless if it's inaccurate. I'm using PerformanceTools torque wrenches cause I ain't ballin' enough for snap-on.

topmade
06-17-2011, 02:39 PM
I'm paranoid now after having a wheel start wobbling on me while on deerfoot. Pulled over to the shoulder and I could of taken the bolts off with my hands :eek: I Re-torque every couple of weeks and before any long trips now.

heavyD
06-17-2011, 02:53 PM
The only time I've ever had issues of lug nuts backing out was the first and last time I've used wheel spacers.

962 kid
06-17-2011, 03:27 PM
Originally posted by EM1FTW
if the wheels dont fall off backing out of the shop, they aren't going to imo

What he said. Only reason your wheels would come off after being tq'd is if your studs/bolts are stretched or damaged, or if your hubs aren't clean. I only retorque if I'm tracking. Most shops put it on their invoices as a liability thing.

Alterac
06-17-2011, 04:26 PM
Changed the tires on my GF's car from her winter steelies to the aluminum summers.

After a couple short drives, 2 lugs were hand loose. It also made a hell of a noise at low speeds

So a quick re-torque its fixed.

AE92_TreunoSC
06-17-2011, 05:55 PM
I only believe virgin rims need re-torquing after 100kms.

I've never seen a properly installed rim back off.

Everyone should have a torque wrench at home.

Rat Fink
06-17-2011, 06:04 PM
.

J-hop
06-17-2011, 06:15 PM
Originally posted by Stunt66


I have a buddy who had his tires fall off twice on 2 differet rides, once on his jetta about 10 years ago and last month on his truck coming back from golden. The first time him and another buddy put some rims on and about an hour after he lost one of the fronts, luckily they were in a residential area and not going fast. The last time could have been bad because he was on the highway when he lost one of the rears, tire came off but he managed to slow it down safely, he ground down his back rotor pretty nicely too. He did have some work done to his brakes recently and the shop is covering labor for the damaged parts because it was hard to put anyone fully at fault. It's hard to say whether or not retorquing his wheels after 100kms would have prevented both accidents but its a super easy thing to do so why not.

wow, your buddy sounds like a huge moron. let me guess he was running 20mm spacers and stock lug bolts :D . the stock lug bolts on my jetta are so long i'd notice wheel wobble long before they ever backed themselves out enough to lose a wheel. You should really retorque them as soon as you pick up the vehicle and then 100kms later. Most McShops torque wheels on so tight you either can't get them off or in the worst cases they damage the wheel. I remember one instance where we had new tires mounted on our bush truck. about 5 days later we were on a washed out logging road and punctured one of the tires, took us 45 mins and a bent tire iron to get them off.

just re torque them, in total it will take you around 5mins. Also if it hasn't been mentioned, back each bolt off slightly before torquing to get a more accurate torq on the bolt and make sure you torque in the proper pattern (not doing it in the correct pattern can also lead to undertorqued lugs).

bbcustoms
06-17-2011, 06:24 PM
Originally posted by 962 kid


What he said. Only reason your wheels would come off after being tq'd is if your studs/bolts are stretched or damaged, or if your hubs aren't clean. I only retorque if I'm tracking. Most shops put it on their invoices as a liability thing.

WTF?

How many people are here with this mentality. Shops would not have it on their invoices as a liability thing if it didn't happen.

962 kid
06-17-2011, 06:51 PM
Originally posted by bbcustoms


WTF?

How many people are here with this mentality. Shops would not have it on their invoices as a liability thing if it didn't happen.

This mentality??? Kindly GFY

The people on here with "this mentality" are likely the ones with the experience to properly fasten a wheel to a car and more importantly, tell when a wheel isn't. Do you really think every JiffyLube out there properly cleans each hub, wheel bore and pad on every wheel on every car? Do you also think they properly tq the wheel with a calibrated tq wrench (not gun/tq stick) every time? Do you think every 17 year old working out there has a keen enough eye to spot a bent wheel bolt or the experience to feel that some hardware is stretched and isn't torquing properly?

Answer yes to all of those questions with a straight face and you're an idiot. Answer no to any of them and you can go choke on the humility steaming off of your BS post.

g-m
06-17-2011, 07:20 PM
Originally posted by 962 kid


What he said. Only reason your wheels would come off after being tq'd is if your studs/bolts are stretched or damaged, or if your hubs aren't clean. I only retorque if I'm tracking. Most shops put it on their invoices as a liability thing. this is what I've noticed as well. My wheels end up coming off like once a month or every other month anyway and they get retorqued then. I've checked the torque after a whole summer of hard driving on single-torqued lugs before only to have them exactly at the correct torque. I'll believe the need when I see it.

edit:

just re torque them, in total it will take you around 5mins. Also if it hasn't been mentioned, back each bolt off slightly before torquing to get a more accurate torq on the bolt and make sure you torque in the proper pattern (not doing it in the correct pattern can also lead to undertorqued lugs).
100% ALWAYS torque in the correct pattern. You can get runout in your hubs if you torque in a weird pattern or use the torquing process to pull the wheel tight to the hub with the car on the ground. Then you're forever replacing your rotors because the problem manifests exactly the same as warped rotors. And Calgary's shitty mechanics will be happy to sell you new rotors twice a year rather than diagnose the problem.

bbcustoms
06-17-2011, 08:16 PM
Originally posted by 962 kid


This mentality??? Kindly GFY

The people on here with "this mentality" are likely the ones with the experience to properly fasten a wheel to a car and more importantly, tell when a wheel isn't. Do you really think every JiffyLube out there properly cleans each hub, wheel bore and pad on every wheel on every car? Do you also think they properly tq the wheel with a calibrated tq wrench (not gun/tq stick) every time? Do you think every 17 year old working out there has a keen enough eye to spot a bent wheel bolt or the experience to feel that some hardware is stretched and isn't torquing properly?

Answer yes to all of those questions with a straight face and you're an idiot. Answer no to any of them and you can go choke on the humility steaming off of your BS post.

Kindly go fuck myself? For what trying to give someone proper advice. The only humility here is your post.

Of course the answers to your questions are no, which means there is a chance of shit coming loose. The problem is, it doesn't happen as you are pulling out of the shop. I have had wheels come loose and come off, it's 2 days or a week after. And yes you can usually feel when they start to come loose but by that point you are already doing damage. I'm not saying its going to happen every time, maybe 1:100 maybe only 1:500 but isn't that reason enough to take the 5 fucking minutes its going to take to re-torque and not to risk it.

Actually better yet why don't you pick up the phone, call any tire shop in the city and ask them if that little note is just for liability or if your lug nuts could possibly loosen off.

Other than that quit giving people shitty advice. Just because you are too ignorant to understand things like this are in place for a reason doesn't mean you need to pass your stupidity around.

02rsx-s
06-17-2011, 08:46 PM
i don't retorque my wheels because race car

Team_Mclaren
06-17-2011, 09:07 PM
Wheels have to be re-torqued? wut??

BigKate
06-17-2011, 10:35 PM
Originally posted by Tik-Tok


Yes.
Yes.
Yes.
Torque wrench, or Torque Sticks matching your manufacturers recommended torque setting.

How do you tell if I need a 1/2 inch or 3/8 inch torque wrench? If Im tigthening by hand how am i able to measure how tight it currently is and what to tighten it to? Ill give auto value a call, canadian tire wanted $100!

RickDaTuner
06-17-2011, 11:08 PM
Originally posted by BigKate


How do you tell if I need a 1/2 inch or 3/8 inch torque wrench? If Im tigthening by hand how am i able to measure how tight it currently is and what to tighten it to? Ill give auto value a call, canadian tire wanted $100!

You need a 1/2" wrench 3/8" is for more delicate work on internal engine components

$100 is the a decent price, most other places will charge from $200 - $900 for one.

Princess auto has one that sell for about 60 dollars. honestly for the sole job of torquing wheel nuts this is fine. so long as you back it off to 0 after every use.

They are calibrated before being sold, and can be re-calibrated yearly if you so choose as well.

962 kid
06-17-2011, 11:33 PM
Originally posted by bbcustoms


Kindly go fuck myself? For what trying to give someone proper advice. The only humility here is your post.

Of course the answers to your questions are no, which means there is a chance of shit coming loose. The problem is, it doesn't happen as you are pulling out of the shop. I have had wheels come loose and come off, it's 2 days or a week after. And yes you can usually feel when they start to come loose but by that point you are already doing damage. I'm not saying its going to happen every time, maybe 1:100 maybe only 1:500 but isn't that reason enough to take the 5 fucking minutes its going to take to re-torque and not to risk it.

Actually better yet why don't you pick up the phone, call any tire shop in the city and ask them if that little note is just for liability or if your lug nuts could possibly loosen off.

Other than that quit giving people shitty advice. Just because you are too ignorant to understand things like this are in place for a reason doesn't mean you need to pass your stupidity around.

Funny that you've had wheels come loose and come off the car. I haven't. Not once in the last 1:100 times, not once in the last 1:500 times, not once in the last 1:1000 times. Yeah, you definitely sound qualified to give advice on the topic at hand :rolleyes:

If your wheels came loose then one of the things I mentioned previously is wrong, or you torqued the wheels incorrectly. Either way, fix your shit and fix it properly instead of being a hack and relying on retqing to fix your laziness. That's some good advice for you. When you learn how to put a wheel on a car and not have it fall off 2 days later then come and post again.


Originally posted by RickDaTuner


You need a 1/2" wrench 3/8" is for more delicate work on internal engine components

$100 is the a decent price, most other places will charge from $200 - $900 for one.

Princess auto has one that sell for about 60 dollars. honestly for the sole job of torquing wheel nuts this is fine. so long as you back it off to 0 after every use.

They are calibrated before being sold, and can be re-calibrated yearly if you so choose as well.

Re-calibrating is great, so long as you plan ahead :) I think the last time ours got sent out it was almost 2 weeks turnaround

Rat Fink
06-18-2011, 12:40 AM
.

crapstixs
06-18-2011, 02:16 AM
Ive been using torque sticks for about 10 years now, and I have yet to have a wheel come off, knock on wood. If you want to put things into perspective, what is the difference between a tq stick and a $60 torque wrench. Not much. rat fink, you work for a dealership so its a bit different for you. At my shop we allmost have to have a guy full time doing re-torques.
The whole reason why re-torques got started, is for the shop to cover its ass. This way if a customer has a wheel fall off and didnt get the wheels re-torqued the shop has a way out. Even though the shop would fix its mistake if a wheel falls off. Its for when things get nasty and go to court.
When I was a tire guy doing re-torques, most lugs would turn about 1mm if that. and thats from 20km to 1000's of km since they were originally torqued on if done corectly.

bbcustoms
06-18-2011, 12:56 PM
Originally posted by 962 kid


Funny that you've had wheels come loose and come off the car. I haven't. Not once in the last 1:100 times, not once in the last 1:500 times, not once in the last 1:1000 times. Yeah, you definitely sound qualified to give advice on the topic at hand :rolleyes:

If your wheels came loose then one of the things I mentioned previously is wrong, or you torqued the wheels incorrectly. Either way, fix your shit and fix it properly instead of being a hack and relying on retqing to fix your laziness. That's some good advice for you. When you learn how to put a wheel on a car and not have it fall off 2 days later then come and post again.



Re-calibrating is great, so long as you plan ahead :) I think the last time ours got sent out it was almost 2 weeks turnaround

Are you fucking retarded?
Did you get dropped on your head as a child?
Maybe you need to get dropped on your head to wake you the fuck up.

I never once said this was me putting the wheels on myself. The whole topic of the fucking conversation the entire time was when it is coming out of a shop. As you even mentioned in your previous post - "do you trust a 17 year old idiot blah blah blah..."

The simple answer is NO! I do not trust everyone that works on my vehicles. So yes I will be re-torquing my wheels.

That my stupid friend is the opposite of laziness.

Team_Mclaren
06-18-2011, 01:05 PM
Originally posted by bbcustoms




I never once said this was me putting the wheels on myself. The whole topic of the fucking conversation the entire time was when it is coming out of a shop. As you even mentioned in your previous post - "do you trust a 17 year old idiot blah blah blah..."

The simple answer is NO! I do not trust everyone that works on my vehicles. So yes I will be re-torquing my wheels.

That my stupid friend is the opposite of laziness.

i re-read the OP and it never said anything specificly about puting the wheels on in a shop.

How many people do you think knows how to re-torque their wheel?

KandabashiDevil
06-18-2011, 01:26 PM
Originally posted by EM1FTW
if the wheels dont fall off backing out of the shop, they aren't going to imo

Ban


Originally posted by 962 kid
Only reason your wheels would come off after being tq'd is if your studs/bolts are stretched or damaged, or if your hubs aren't clean.

Ban


Originally posted by heavyD
The only time I've ever had issues of lug nuts backing out was the first and last time I've used wheel spacers.


Originally posted by g-m
I'll believe the need when I see it.

Then maybe once you two kids get out of High School, you'll understand some things about the world adults live in .... But I doubt that.

Re-torquing your wheels is a precautionary measure taken by professionals to prevent unexpected circumstances from progressing. Anyone with even the slightest bit of experience in the industry already agrees with me. I hardly expect the morons I quoted to comprehend the necessity of precautionary automotive practice. Anyone who bears the responsibility of liability would understand.

bbcustoms
06-18-2011, 01:36 PM
Originally posted by Team_Mclaren


i re-read the OP and it never said anything specificly about puting the wheels on in a shop.

How many people do you think knows how to re-torque their wheel?

I actually reread the OP before my last post as well and read it the same as I did the first time. A hypothetical situation and wondering if he can re-torque himself as opposed to bringing it back to the mechanic to get done.

I never got in on it until people were saying you shouldn't need to re-torque at all.

There has to be at least a few people who have the knowledge to re-torque their wheels themselves, especially on a car forum.

My whole argument with this 962 idiot started when he agreed to the other kids comment that if the wheels don't fall off backing out of the shop they aren't going to at all.

962 kid
06-18-2011, 01:40 PM
Originally posted by bbcustoms


Are you fucking retarded?
Did you get dropped on your head as a child?
Maybe you need to get dropped on your head to wake you the fuck up.

I never once said this was me putting the wheels on myself. The whole topic of the fucking conversation the entire time was when it is coming out of a shop. As you even mentioned in your previous post - "do you trust a 17 year old idiot blah blah blah..."

The simple answer is NO! I do not trust everyone that works on my vehicles. So yes I will be re-torquing my wheels.

That my stupid friend is the opposite of laziness.

So let me get this straight... you don't put your own wheels on, you've had wheels come loose/off, and you don't trust the people that work on your own car? So you lack the skillset required to work on your own car, the intelligence to tell when a wheel is coming loose, and the common sense to find a mechanic that you trust? Hurray for yet another peeon internet warrior who thinks he's a car god simply because he owns a 4 wheeled vehicle.

OP never said anything about the car coming out of a shop. I know it's a bit of a stretch for you to go back and re-read what has already been written, but do yourself a favor next time.


Originally posted by KandabashiDevil
Then maybe once you two kids get out of High School, you'll understand some things about the world adults live in .... But I doubt that.

Re-torquing your wheels is a precautionary measure taken by professionals to prevent unexpected circumstances from progressing. Anyone with even the slightest bit of experience in the industry already agrees with me. I hardly expect the morons I quoted to comprehend the necessity of precautionary automotive practice. Anyone who bears the responsibility of liability would understand. But most of you losers are still eating whatever your Mommy cooked for supper.

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: You're right, I'd better go graduate from high school and buy my first set of mastercraft tools before I can be as cool and knowledgeable as you are. One day maybe I'll be able to torque some wheels on a cool car.


Originally posted by bbcustoms
I never got in on it until people were saying you shouldn't need to re-torque at all.

There has to be at least a few people who have the knowledge to re-torque their wheels themselves, especially on a car forum.

My whole argument with this 962 idiot started when he agreed to the other kids comment that if the wheels don't fall off backing out of the shop they aren't going to at all.

I never said you don't need to retorque. I said you don't if all hardware is in good condition, mating surfaces are clean and the correct tq procedure is followed. Fortunately, I don't put cars back together unless all those criterion are met. I also said I retq any car I'm tracking.

KandabashiDevil
06-18-2011, 01:58 PM
Originally posted by 962 kid
I can be as cool and knowledgeable as you are

No. You can't.

bbcustoms
06-18-2011, 02:54 PM
Originally posted by 962 kid


So let me get this straight... you don't put your own wheels on, you've had wheels come loose/off, and you don't trust the people that work on your own car? So you lack the skillset required to work on your own car, the intelligence to tell when a wheel is coming loose, and the common sense to find a mechanic that you trust? Hurray for yet another peeon internet warrior who thinks he's a car god simply because he owns a 4 wheeled vehicle.

OP never said anything about the car coming out of a shop. I know it's a bit of a stretch for you to go back and re-read what has already been written, but do yourself a favor next time.



:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: You're right, I'd better go graduate from high school and buy my first set of mastercraft tools before I can be as cool and knowledgeable as you are. One day maybe I'll be able to torque some wheels on a cool car.



I never said you don't need to retorque. I said you don't if all hardware is in good condition, mating surfaces are clean and the correct tq procedure is followed. Fortunately, I don't put cars back together unless all those criterion are met. I also said I retq any car I'm tracking.

You seem to just guess your way through everything and think you know it all. Sorry that I lack a tire machine and other equipment to do every potential service that would require the wheels to come off of my vehicles. I also have 12 vehicles to deal with between personal and my companies along with multiple drivers - Some with a brain span similar to yours and they might be too clueless to recognize a loose wheel shake which ends up in a wheel coming off.

Regardless of what OP said, I started in on you when you agreed with this post

Originally posted by EM1FTW
if the wheels dont fall off backing out of the shop, they aren't going to imo

Obviously you stand by your ignorance which is fine and it will only hurt you in the long run.

All I'm asking is that you stop giving other people shitty advice and go back to your cave.

bbcustoms
06-18-2011, 02:56 PM
Originally posted by KandabashiDevil


No. You can't.

New sig :thumbsup:

962 kid
06-18-2011, 03:23 PM
Originally posted by bbcustoms


You seem to just guess your way through everything and think you know it all. Sorry that I lack a tire machine and other equipment to do every potential service that would require the wheels to come off of my vehicles. I also have 12 vehicles to deal with between personal and my companies along with multiple drivers - Some with a brain span similar to yours and they might be too clueless to recognize a loose wheel shake which ends up in a wheel coming off.

Obviously you stand by your ignorance which is fine and it will only hurt you in the long run.

All I'm asking is that you stop giving other people shitty advice and go back to your cave.

12 vehicles, don't do your own work, don't have the tools, don't have the experience, don't know fuck all :thumbsup: Stay out of threads if you don't know what you're talking about.

tirebob
06-18-2011, 03:59 PM
Re-torquing of lug nuts is simply smart and common sense...

Yes, in theory, if everything is perfect, in the vast majority of situations it really wouldn't have been necessary, but not every situation is easily accounted for. Case in point, we had a customer come in with his car a few weeks ago for his simple winter to summer tire change. Used the same stock factory rims he always has on his car and just changed the tires.

Everything went as expected, except the customer did not elect to come back for free re-torque as we always request. Well fast forward a few days and he calls saying that he wants us to re-balance his wheels because after a drive to Edmonton he started to notice that when he turns, he feels a vibration and it makes a funny clunky noise. Instantly I tell him he should check his lug nuts in case they have loosened for any reason. He said he stopped at another tire store and they told him it was probably his CV joint but he seemed to think they were trying to sell him a job and that really it just needed a re-balance. Since he was right by the shop he said he would stop buy right away.

Well sure enough, the lug nuts were lose on all 4 of his wheels! Some were only held on still by a few threads. Naturally, this disturbed me quite a bit so I took it further and took everything apart to see why this would be happening as every car that leaves our shop is 100% fully hand torqued to factory specs...

All the hubs were clean and the studs were good. The mating surfaces were also perfect. It wasn't until I looked carefully at the lug nuts did I realize that the customer had an aftermarket lug nut, and this particular aftermarket lug nut has a small seat to it. After I questioned the customer about it, he said he had put them on during the winter because his stock ones were looking a bit ratty and another shop told him the new ones would be fine for him. Luckily the customer still had a few of the factory lugs in the trunk and I was able to show him that the seat style, however slight, was different the proper ones. Turns out that it wasn't the first time he had an issue like this (which makes me wonder why he didn't take the re-torque seriously). The first time he just reefed them up super tight instead of factory torque and it held.

Long story short, sometimes something can look proper, but it still is not always be proper. If this fellow had come back for his re-torque, this is a problem that could have been caught sooner than it was. luckily, nothing happened to him, but it wouldn't have been long before before his wheel would have come off...

max_boost
06-18-2011, 05:12 PM
Originally posted by EM1FTW
if the wheels dont fall off backing out of the shop, they aren't going to imo



Originally posted by Team_Mclaren
Wheels have to be re-torqued? wut??


:eek: I know it says so on the bill but in my 15 years of driving, a dozen different cars, changing tires every winter etc. I have NEVER re-torqued it. :dunno: :nut:

I've never had a problem either. :eek:

KandabashiDevil
06-18-2011, 06:03 PM
Bob should be moderator of the wheels & tires section :) (which is where this thread belongs) .

The issue regards preventative maintenance. No .... I've never had a wheel fall off. I've also never ruined an engine by snapping an old timing belt. Why wait for something to go wrong?

tomt64
06-18-2011, 08:26 PM
Originally posted by bbcustoms


Your opinion is a piece of shit.

Always re-torque

I have impacted wheels on several times a day [5-6 days a week] and then used a torque wrench to tighten to the specified ft/lbs for over 5 years.

Have I ever had a cust come back and complain a wheel fell off or wobble/vibration was apparent? No.

Actually: your opinion is a piece of shit.

People talking about corrosion and what not, you are meant to give the hub and the wheel a clean before installing the wheel back on the vehicle.

Now if people are using wrong lug nuts as Bob mentioned, thats a whole other story.

Oh and Rat Fink I totally agree with you, none of our 15 techs use torque sticks. I did an experiment once w an older guy [later fired] who insisted a 80ft/lb stick would not go any tighter than that.
He put on the lug nuts w a gun and the torque stick. I got a newly calibrated snap on torque wrench, all of them varied from 105 to 115 ft/lb. Load of bollocks.

AE92_TreunoSC
06-18-2011, 10:33 PM
Torque sticks cause shock and vibrations that can accelerate carpal tunnel syndrome.

I don't condone them, but I don't use them. I have 350$ torque wrench that's served me well.

I impact to about 70, then a quarter degree turn with my wrench and it clicks at 90ft/lbs like clock work.

Guy's who impact then simply verify they are tight with a click of the torque wrench should be fired as well.

alloroc
06-19-2011, 09:39 AM
Originally posted by RickDaTuner
The mating surfaces of the wheel and hub are not always going to be 100% clean and machined as they were from the factory.
As a car is driven through rain, snow, and even just humid days, corrosion occurs between the wheel and the hub.

When you remove your tires you take one hub/wheel that has accumulated a perfect match to the wheel/hub at each corner, and then mash it against another surface matched to another wheel it leaves little gaps that allow the wheel nuts to seat at the normal torque setting.

But after you drive the car the lateral weight of taking turns braking starting, and what not, the mating surface gets some what compressed, or re-matched to each wheel/hub combo. This results in wheel being able to seat closer to the hub and reducing the torque setting of the wheel nuts.
The loss in most cases is only about 8-12 ft/lbs, but if you drive your car hard or race it, that loss translates into 20-35 ft/lbs which is enough to allow the nuts to back off.

All in all, do as everyone else has stated and re-torque them after 100kms

What Rick said above ...
plus Aluminum 'creeps' This is why Aluminum conductors require spring loaded connectors.

With rims it is doubly dangerous as creep increases with temperature.


www.dtic.mil (http://www.dtic.mil/cgi-bin/GetTRDoc?Location=U2&doc=GetTRDoc.pdf&AD=ADA076046) <---INVESTIGATION OF COMPRESSIVE-CREEP PROPERTIES OF
ALUMINUM COLUMNS AT ELEVATED TEMPERATURES
Battelle Memorial Institute
September 1952
Materials Laboratory
Contract No. AF 33(038)-9542
RDO No. R614-13
Wright Air Development Center
Air Research and Development Command
United States Air Force
Wright-Patterson Air Force Base, Ohio


www.asminternational.org (http://www.asminternational.org/content/ASM/StoreFiles/ACF507C.pdf) <- index only but you'll get the idea.

962 kid
06-19-2011, 03:30 PM
So here's a question for all the guys retorquing. What procedure are you using when you check to make sure the wheels are torqued to the correct spec?

Cos
06-19-2011, 04:45 PM
Lol at the mechanics and the guys who track their cars all agreeing that re-torquing is more of a legal thing than an actual required thing. Of course you should check your lug nuts. Not just at 100km after they have been put on but ALL THE TIME.

What is next in the world Jiffy Lube saying after 1000km come back in to get your oil level checked? What the fuck happened to people doing their own work and taking care of their own shit.

I understand the theory behind checking the lugs but when I was a tech we never even had the policy to come back and get them re-torqued (that was 8 years ago though). I dont remember anyone ever losing a wheel.

alloroc
06-19-2011, 05:40 PM
Originally posted by 962 kid
So here's a question for all the guys retorquing. What procedure are you using when you check to make sure the wheels are torqued to the correct spec?

http://www.tirerack.com/images/wheels/tech/torque_diagram.jpg

A thread chaser or tap should be used to remove any burrs or obstructions of the threads allowing the lug hardware to be turned by hand until it meets the wheel's lug seat. Once lugs are snugged down, finish tightening them with an accurate torque wrench. Use the appropriate crisscross sequence (shown above) for the number of wheel lugs on your vehicle until all have reached their proper torque value. Be careful because if you over-torque a wheel, you can strip a lug nut or hub, stretch or break a stud or bolt, and cause the wheel, brake rotor and/or brake drum to distort.



Use the dry wheel lug torque values (never oil the studs or use lubricant) specified in the vehicle's owner's manual, shop manual or obtained from the vehicle dealer/service provider. The chart below lists typical torque values that should only be used temporarily until the vehicle's exact torque values can be confirmed.

Since the thickness of an alloy wheel can differ from Original Equipment wheels, also verify that the lug nuts or bolts will engage the threads.

When installing wheels you should re-torque the wheel lugs after driving the first 50 to 100 miles in case the clamping loads have changed following the initial installation. This is necessary due to the possibility of metal compression/elongation or thermal stresses affecting the wheels as they are breaking in, as well as to verify the accuracy of the original installation. When rechecking torque value, wait for the wheels to cool to ambient temperature (never torque a hot wheel). Loosen and retighten to value, in sequence. Simply repeat the same torque procedure listed above.


Make/Model Year Torque

Acura
All models 1990-05 80 ft-lbs

Alfa Romeo
All models 1991-95 75 ft-lbs

Aston Martin
Vanquish 2002-05 95 ft-lbs
All other models 1983-05 75 ft-lbs

Audi
All models 1982-05 90 ft-lbs

Bentley
Arnage 2002-04 100 ft-lbs
Arnage 1999-01 75 ft-lbs
Azure/ LeMans 2001-02 85 ft-lbs
Continental GT 2003-05 110 ft-lbs
All other models 1989-05 50 ft-lbs

BMW / Mini
745 & 760 2002-05 100 ft-lbs
Mini Cooper 2002-05 105 ft-lbs
All other models 1982-05 90 ft-lbs

Buick
All models 1982-05 100 ft-lbs

Cadillac
Deville HD Spec. 1997-01 140 ft-lbs
Catera 1997-01 80 ft-lbs
All other models 1977-05 100 ft-lbs

Chevrolet / Geo
Aveo 2004-05 90 ft-lbs
Metro 1991-99 50 ft-lbs
Prizm 1989-02 80 ft-lbs
Storm 1990-93 85 ft-lbs
All other models 1987-05 100 ft-lbs

Chrysler
Cirrus 1995-00 100 ft-lbs
Concorde 1993-04 110 ft-lbs
Crossfire 2004-05 85 ft-lbs
Fifth Avenue (RWD) 1983-90 85 ft-lbs
LeBaron/NewYorker 1984-96 95 ft-lbs
LHS/300M/300C/300 1999-05 110 ft-lbs
LHS 1994-97 95 ft-lbs
PT Cruiser 2001-05 110 ft-lbs
Prowler Roadster 2002 100 ft-lbs
Sebring Conv. 1996-05 105 ft-lbs
Sebring Coupe 1999-05 80 ft-lbs
Sebring Coupe 1996-98 100 ft-lbs
Sebring Sedan 2001-05 110 ft-lbs
T/C by Maserati 1989-91 95 ft-lbs

Daewoo
Lanos/Nubria 1999-03 90 ft-lbs
Leganza 1999-03 80 ft-lbs

Dodge
Avenger 1999-00 80 ft-lbs
Avenger 1995-98 100 ft-lbs
Charger 2006 110 ft-lbs
Colt 1976-94 80 ft-lbs
Daytona/Dynasty 1984-93 95 ft-lbs
Intrepid 1999-04 110 ft-lbs
Intrepid 1993-98 95 ft-lbs
Magnum 2005-06 110 ft-lbs
Neon 2000-05 110 ft-lbs
Neon 1999 100 ft-lbs
Neon 1995-98 95 ft-lbs
Omni 1984-90 95 ft-lbs
Shadow 1987-94 95 ft-lbs
Stratus 1995-99 100 ft-lbs
Stratus Sedan 2000-05 110 ft-lbs
Stratus Coupe 2001-05 80 ft-lbs
Spirit 1989-94 95 ft-lbs
Stealth 1991-96 100 ft-lbs
Viper 1993-04 100 ft-lbs
Vista 1984-91 60 ft-lbs

Eagle
Premier & Monaco * 1989-92 75 ft-lbs
* With aluminum wheels 100 ft-lbs
Talon 1990-98 100 ft-lbs
Summit 1989-96 80 ft-lbs
Medallion 1988 65 ft-lbs
Vison 1993-97 95 ft-lbs

Ferrari
360 Modena 2000-05 80 ft-lbs
550/575 Maranello 1998-05 100 ft-lbs
456 M GT/GTA 1995-04 90 ft-lbs
Testarossa(5 bolts) 1988-91 75 ft-lbs
348/Mondial T 1989-94 75 ft-lbs
All other models 90 ft-lbs

Ford
Aspire 1994-97 85 ft-lbs
Contour 1999-00 95 ft-lbs
Contour 1998 85 ft-lbs
Contour 1995-97 65 ft-lbs
Crown Victoria 2000-05 100 ft-lbs
Probe 1989-97 85 ft-lbs
Festiva 1988-93 85 ft-lbs
Escort/ZX2 1991-04 85 ft-lbs
Escort/EXP 1981-90 100 ft-lbs
Five Hundred 2005 100 ft-lbs
Focus 2000-05 95 ft-lbs
Freestyle 2005 100 ft-lbs
Mustang 1979-05 100 ft-lbs
Taurus 2000-05 95 ft-lbs
Taurus 1986-96 100 ft-lbs
Tempo 1984-96 100 ft-lbs
Thunderbird 1975-05 100 ft-lbs
All other models 1984-99 100 ft-lbs

Honda
All models 1984-04 80 ft-lbs

Hyundai
All models 1986-05 80 ft-lbs

Infiniti
G20 1999-02 100 ft-lbs
All other models 1990-05 85 ft-lbs

Isuzu
All models 1983-93 85 ft-lbs

Jaguar
S Type 2000-05 95 ft-lbs
All other models 1989-05 75 ft-lbs

Kia
All models 1993-05 85 ft-lbs

Lamborghini
All models 1990-04 80 ft-lbs

Lexus
All Models 1990-05 75 ft-lbs

Lincoln
All other models 1984-05 100 ft-lbs

Maserati
Spider 2002-04 90 ft-lbs
All other models 1989-91 75 ft-lbs

Mazda
Millenia 1995-02 90 ft-lbs
All other models 1976-05 85 ft-lbs

Mercedes
Models with 14mm bolts 1994-05 110 ft-lbs
All other models 1994-05 80 ft-lbs

Mercury
Capri 1991-94 90 ft-lbs
Cougar 1999-02 95 ft-lbs
Grand Marquis 2000-04 100 ft-lbs
Marauder 2003-04 95 ft-lbs
Montego 2005 100 ft-lbs
Mystique 1999-00 95 ft-lbs
Mystique 1998 85 ft-lbs
Mystique 1995-97 65 ft-lbs
Sable 2000-04 95 ft-lbs
Sable 1995-99 100 ft-lbs
Tracer 1988-99 90 ft-lbs
All other models 1984-05 100 ft-lbs

Merkur
Scorpio 1988-90 70 ft-lbs
XR4Ti 1985-89 100 ft-lbs

Mitsubishi
Eclipse 1990-99 100 ft-lbs
3000 GT 1991-99 100 ft-lbs
Lancer 2002-04 80 ft-lbs
Precis * 1987-94 60 ft-lbs
* With aluminum wheels 70 ft-lbs
All other models 1987-05 80 ft-lbs

Nissan
Sentra/Sentra E 1990-95 75 ft-lbs
All other models 1987-05 90 ft-lbs

Oldsmobile
All models 1977-04 100 ft-lbs

Panoz
All models 1999-05 90 ft-lbs

Plymouth
Acclaim/Reliant 1989-95 95 ft-lbs
Breeze 2000 105 ft-lbs
Breeze 1999 100 ft-lbs
Breeze 1996-98 95 ft-lbs
Colt 1983-94 80 ft-lbs
Grand Fury 1980-89 85 ft-lbs
Horizon 1978-90 95 ft-lbs
Laser 1990-94 95 ft-lbs
Neon (see Dodge)
Prowler 2000-01 100 ft-lbs
Sundance 1987-94 95 ft-lbs
Turismo 1982-87 95 ft-lbs
Vista * 1984-94 55 ft-lbs
* With aluminum wheels 80 ft-lbs

Pontiac
LeMans 1989-93 65 ft-lbs
Vibe 2003-05 75 ft-lbs
All other models 1990-05 100 ft-lbs

Porsche
Carrera GT 2004-05 407 ft-lbs
All other models 1972-05 95 ft-lbs

Rolls Royce
Parkwood/Seraph 1997-02 75 ft-lbs
Phantom 2004-05 105 ft-lbs
All other models 1989-02 50 ft-lbs

Saab
9-2X 2005 75 ft-lbs
9-3 / 9-5 1999-05 80 ft-lbs
900 models * 1995-98 80 ft-lbs
* With aluminum wheels 85 ft-lbs
9000 models 1994-98 90 ft-lbs
All other models 1988-93 90 ft-lbs
All other models 1976-87 80 ft-lbs

Saturn
L Series 2003-04 80 ft-lbs
L Series 2000-02 95 ft-lbs
EV-1 Electric 1997-02 100 ft-lbs
Vue 2002-04 100 ft-lbs
All other models 1991-05 100 ft-lbs

Scion
All Models 2004-05 75 ft-lbs

Subaru
SVX 1992-97 90 ft-lbs
All other models 1985-05 75 ft-lbs

Suzuki
Aerio 2002-05 65 ft-lbs
Esteem 1996-02 65 ft-lbs
Forenza 2004-05 90 ft-lbs
Swift 1989-01 50 ft-lbs
Reno 2005 65 ft-lbs
Verona 2004-05 80 ft-lbs
X-90 1996-98 70 ft-lbs

Toyota
All models 1985-05 80 ft-lbs

Volkswagen
All models 1999-05 90 ft-lbs
All models 1988-98 80 ft-lbs

Volvo
S / V40 2000-05 80 ft-lbs
S 60 2001-05 100 ft-lbs
C70 / S70 1998-04 80 ft-lbs
S 80 1999-05 100 ft-lbs
V 70 1998-05 100 ft-lbs
200 Series 1981-93 85 ft-lbs
700/900, S90/V90 1983-98 65 ft-lbs
850 Series 1993-97 80 ft-lbs



Mini Vans, Light Trucks, and SUVs

Make/Model Year Torque

Acura
MDX 2001-05 80 ft-lbs
SLX 1996-99 90 ft-lbs

BMW
X5 2000-05 105 ft-lbs
X3 2004-05 85 ft-lbs

Buick
Rendezvous 2002-05 100 ft-lbs

Cadillac
Escalade / EXT 1999-05 140 ft-lbs
SRX 2004-05 95 ft-lbs

Chevrolet / GMC
Astro/Safari Van 1985-05 100 ft-lbs
Avalanche 2002-05 140 ft-lbs
C/K Blazer/Suburban/Jimmy(full size) 1992-95 120 ft-lbs
C/K Pickup (Full) (SRW/DRW) 1996-00 140 ft-lbs
C30 HD (DRW) 5/8-18 1996-00 175 ft-lbs
C/K Pickup 1988-95 120 ft-lbs
C/K Pickup (DRW) 1988-95 140 ft-lbs
Colorado/Canyon 2004-05 100 ft-lbs
Denali 1997-05 140 ft-lbs
Envoy/XUV 1998-05 100 ft-lbs
Equinox 2004-05 100 ft-lbs
Express/Savana 1996-05 140 ft-lbs
G10/G15, G20/G25, G30/G35(SRW/DRW) 1996-99 140 ft-lbs
G10/G15, G20/G25, Full Size 1988-95 100 ft-lbs
G30/G35 Full Size 1988-95 120 ft-lbs
G30/G35 (DRW) Full Size 1988-95 140 ft-lbs
Lumina Minivan 1994-96 100 ft-lbs
Lumina APV 1990-93 100 ft-lbs
R10/R15-Full Size Suburban/Blazer 1989-91 100 ft-lbs
R20/R25,R30/R35-Full Size Suburban(SRW) 1989-91 120 ft-lbs
SSR 2003-05 80 ft-lbs
Suburban(DRW) 1989-91 125 ft-lbs
S/T Pickup/Blazer/Trail Blazer/Jimmy 1992-05 100 ft-lbs
S10/S15 Pickup/Blazer/Jimmy 1982-92 80 ft-lbs
Silverado/Sierra 1999-05 140 ft-lbs
Silverado/Sierra HD(DRW) 5/8-18 1999-05 175 ft-lbs
Suburban/Tahoe/Yukon 1996-05 140 ft-lbs
Tracker 1990-99 60 ft-lbs
Tracker 2000-05 70 ft-lbs
T10/T15 Pickup/Blazer/Jimmy 1982-91 100 ft-lbs
V10/V15 Full Size Suburban 1990-91 100 ft-lbs
Suburban / Blazer
w/ Aluminum Wheels 1988-89 100 ft-lbs
w/ Steel Wheels 1988-89 90 ft-lbs
V20/V25,V30/V35 Full Size Suburban(SRW) 1989-91 120 ft-lbs
Suburban(DRW) 1989-91 125 ft-lbs
Uplander 2005 100 ft-lbs
Venture Minivan 1997-04 100 ft-lbs

Chrysler
Pacifica 2004-05 85 ft-lbs
PT Cruiser 2001-05 110 ft-lbs
Town & Country 2000-05 110 ft-lbs
Town & Country 1999 100 ft-lbs
Town & Country 1990-98 95 ft-lbs
Voyager 2001-03 110 ft-lbs

Diahatsu
Rocky (All) 1990-92 85 ft-lbs

Dodge
Grand Caravan/Caravan 2000-05 110 ft-lbs
Grand Caravan/Caravan 1999 100 ft-lbs
Dakota Pickup(All) 1985-98 95 ft-lbs
Dakota Pickup 1994-05 110 ft-lbs
Durango 1998-05 110 ft-lbs
Pickup (D&W series) D100/150,D200/250 1972-93 105 ft-lbs
D300/350(1/2"stud) 1979-93 105 ft-lbs
D300/350(5/8"stud) 1979-93 105 ft-lbs
w/ flanged 5/8"stud 1979-93 200 ft-lbs
Ramcharger 1979-93 350 ft-lbs
Rampage (FWD) 1979-93 105 ft-lbs
Ram 50 Pickup 1982-84 90 ft-lbs
Ram Pickup 1987-93 100 ft-lbs
1500 2002-05 135 ft-lbs
1500 1994-01 110 ft-lbs
2500 2002-05 135 ft-lbs
2500 1994-01 150 ft-lbs
3500 2002-05 145 ft-lbs
3500 1994-01 160 ft-lbs
SRT-10 2004-05 135 ft-lbs
Ram Van
B1500 2002-05 110 ft-lbs
B1500 1998-01 115 ft-lbs
B1500 1995-97 110 ft-lbs
B2500 (9/16"-18 studs) 1999-05 150 ft-lbs
B2500 1998 115 ft-lbs
B2500 1997 110 ft-lbs
B3500 (9/16"-18 studs) 1999-05 150 ft-lbs
B3500 w/out 5/8" studs 1995-98 115 ft-lbs
with 5/8" studs 1995-98 225 ft-lbs
B150 1994 110 ft-lbs
B250/350 w/out 5/8" studs 1994 115 ft-lbs
with 5/8" studs 1994 225 ft-lbs
Ram Van (FWD) 1984-93 95 ft-lbs
Ram Wagon
B1500 2002 110 ft-lbs
B1500 1998-01 115 ft-lbs
B1500 1995-97 110 ft-lbs
B2500 (9/16"-18 studs) 1992-02 150 ft-lbs
B2500 1998 115 ft-lbs
B2500 1997 110 ft-lbs
B2500 1995-96 115 ft-lbs
B3500 (9/16"-18 studs) 1999-02 150 ft-lbs
B3500 w/out 5/58" studs 1995-98 115 ft-lbs
with 5/8" studs 1995-98 225 ft-lbs
B150 1994 110 ft-lbs
B250/B350 w/out 5/8" studs 1994 115 ft-lbs
with 5/8" studs 1994 225 ft-lbs
Wagon
B100/150 1972-93 105 ft-lbs
B200/250 1972-93 105 ft-lbs
B300/350 (1/2" studs) 1979-93 105 ft-lbs
B300/350 (5/8" studs) 1979-93 200 ft-lbs
w/ flanged 5/8" studs 1979-93 350 ft-lbs
Sprinter 2500 2004-05 140 ft-lbs
Sprinter 3500 2004-05 180 ft-lbs

Ford
Aerostar 1986-97 100 ft-lbs
Bronco 1987-96 100 ft-lbs
Bronco II 1987-90 100 ft-lbs
Escape 2001-05 100 ft-lbs
Excursion All 2001-05 160 ft-lbs
Excursion 2000 150 ft-lbs
Expedition (12mm stud) 1997-00 *100 ft-lbs
Expedition (14mm stud) 2000-05 *150 ft-lbs
Explorer 1991-05 100 ft-lbs
E150 1975-05 100 ft-lbs
E250/350 (8 lug 9/16"-18) 1988-05 140 ft-lbs
E Super Duty (10 lug) 2002-05 165 ft-lbs
F150 (12mm stud) 1988-00 *100 ft-lbs
F150 (14mm stud) 2000-05 *150 ft-lbs
F250/350 (8 lug 9/16"-18) 2001-03 160 ft-lbs
F250/350 (8 lug 9/16"-18) 1999-00 150 ft-lbs
F250/350 (8 lug 9/16"-18) 1988-98 140 ft-lbs
F Super Duty
(10 lug 9/16"-18) 1999-05 165 ft-lbs
(10 lug 9/16"-18) 1996-98 140 ft-lbs
Ranger Pickup 1987-05 100 ft-lbs
Windstar/Freestar 1995-05 100 ft-lbs
* For 2000 model year, check lug nut washer for correct torque setting.

Honda
CR-V 1997-05 80 ft-lbs
Element 2003-05 80 ft-lbs
Odyssey 1995-05 80 ft-lbs
Passport 1994-02 90 ft-lbs
Pilot 2003-05 80 ft-lbs
Ridgeline 2005-06 100 ft-lbs

Hummer
H1/H2 2003-05 140 ft-lbs

Hyundai
Santa Fe 2001-05 80 ft-lbs

Infinity
QX4 1997-05 105 ft-lbs
FX35/FX45 2003-05 80 ft-lbs

Isuzu
Ascender 2003-05 80 ft-lbs
Amigo 1992-94 **85 ft-lbs
Amigo 1991 *75 ft-lbs
Axiom 2002-04 95 ft-lbs
Hombre 1996-00 95 ft-lbs
Oasis 1996-99 80 ft-lbs
Pickup 1995 **85 ft-lbs
Pickup 1991 *75 ft-lbs
Pickup 1990 **85 ft-lbs
Rodeo 1991-04 *65 ft-lbs
Trooper 1984-02 85 ft-lbs
Vehicross 1999-01 85 ft-lbs
* with aluminum wheels 85 ft-lbs
** with aluminum wheels 95 ft-lbs

Jeep
Cherokee 1994-01 110 ft-lbs
Wagoneer 5-lug 110 ft-lbs
Wagoneer 6-lug 75 ft-lbs
Comanche 1984-92 75 ft-lbs
Grand Cherokee 1993-05 110 ft-lbs
Liberty 2002-05 110 ft-lbs
Wrangler 1994-05 110 ft-lbs
Wrangler/CJ 1990-93 80 ft-lbs

Kia
Sedona 2002-04 75 ft-lbs
Sorento 2003-04 85 ft-lbs
Sportage 1995-05 85 ft-lbs

Land Rover
Defender 90/110 1993-97 95 ft-lbs
Discovery 1994-99 95 ft-lbs
Discovery Series II 1999-05 105 ft-lbs
Freelander S/SE/HSE 2002-05 85 ft-lbs
LR3 2005 100 ft-lbs
Ranger Rover Classic 1987-95 95 ft-lbs
Ranger Rover HSE 1996-02 85 ft-lbs
Ranger Rover HSE 2003-05 105 ft-lbs
Range Rover SE 1995-01 85 ft-lbs

Lexus
GX470 2003-05 85 ft-lbs
LX450 1996-97 80 ft-lbs
LX470 1998-05 95 ft-lbs
RX300/330 1999-05 80ft-lbs

Lincoln
Aviator 2003-05 100 ft-lbs
Blackwood 2002-04 155 ft-lbs
Navigator(12mm stud) 1998-00 *100 ft-lbs
Navigator (14mm stud) 2000-04 *150 ft-lbs
Mark LT 2006 150 ft-lbs
* For 2000 model year, check lug nut washer for correct torque setting.

Mazda
B2200 1986-93 *85 ft-lbs
B2300/B4000 1994-05 100 ft-lbs
B2500/3000 1998-05 100 ft-lbs
B2600 1987-93 *85 ft-lbs
MPV 1996-05 85 ft-lbs
Navaho 1991-94 100 ft-lbs
Tribute 2001-05 105 ft-lbs
*with Chrome Steel Wheels 100 ft-lbs

Mercedes
M-class 1998-05 110 ft-lbs

Mercury
Mountaineer 1997-05 100 ft-lbs
Villager 1993-02 80 ft-lbs

Mitsubishi
Endeavor 2004-05 80 ft-lbs
Montero 2000-04 85 ft-lbs
Montero 1999 100 ft-lbs
Montero 1997-98 110 ft-lbs
Montero 1994-96 85 ft-lbs
Montero 1993 100 ft-lbs
Montero Sport 2000-05 85 ft-lbs
Montero Sport 1999 100 ft-lbs
Montero Sport 1997-98 105 ft-lbs
Outlander 2003-05 80 ft-lbs
Pickups 1992-96 100 ft-lbs
Pickups 1989-91 85 ft-lbs
Van/Wagons 1989-90 100 ft-lbs

Nissan
Pathfinder/Frontier 1987-05 105 ft-lbs
Pickups 1987-97 105 ft-lbs
Pickups (DRW) 1987-91 200 ft-lbs
Quest 1995-05 85 ft-lbs
Titan 2004-05 105 ft-lbs
Xterra/Murano 2000-05 80 ft-lbs

Oldsmobile
Bravada 1991-04 100 ft-lbs
Silouette 1990-04 100 ft-lbs

Plymouth
Voyager/Grand Voyager 2000 110 ft-lbs
Voyager/Grand Voyager 1999 100 ft-lbs
Voyager/Grand Voyager 1984-98 95 ft-lbs

Pontiac
Aztec 2001-05 100 ft-lbs
Montana/Trans Sport 1990-05 100 ft-lbs

Saturn
Vue 2002-05 100 ft-lbs

Subaru
Baja 2003-05 75 ft-lbs
Forester 1998-05 75 ft-lbs

Suzuki
Grand Vitara/Vitara 1999-05 70 ft-lbs
Samuri 1991-94 80 ft-lbs
Samuri 1985-90 55 ft-lbs
Sidekick 1989-98 75 ft-lbs
X-90 1996-98 70 ft-lbs

Toyota
Highlander 2001-05 80 ft-lbs
Land Cruiser 1999-05 100 ft-lbs
Land Cruiser 1994-98 *105 ft-lbs
Land Cruiser 1989-93 115 ft-lbs
Pickup 2WD (SRW) 1989-94 100 ft-lbs
Pickup 2WD (DRW) 1989-94 170 ft-lbs
Pickup 4WD 1991-92 80 ft-lbs
Previa/Rav4/Sienna 1991-05 80 ft-lbs
Sequoia 2001-05 85 ft-lbs
Tacoma 1999-05 85 ft-lbs
Tacoma 1995-98 80 ft-lbs
Tundra 2000-05 85 ft-lbs
T100 1995-98 80 ft-lbs
4 Runner 1999-05 85 ft-lbs
4 Runner 1988-98 80 ft-lbs
* With aluminum wheels 80 ft-lbs

Volkswagen
EuroVan 1997-03 130 ft-lbs
EuroVan 1992-96 115 ft-lbs
Pickups 1979-84 80 ft-lbs
Touareg 2004-05 120 ft-lbs

Volvo
XC90 2003-05 105 ft-lbs



Motorhomes & Box Vans with Double Cap Lug Nuts

With 5/8" studs 450 ft-lbs



Trailers & Applications Not Listed

7/16" studs 80 ft-lbs
1/2" studs 100 ft-lbs
9/16" studs 140 ft-lbs
5/8" studs 175 ft-lbs
10mm studs 50 ft-lbs
12mm studs 100 ft-lbs
14mm studs 120 ft-lbs



Abbreviation Key:
RWD - Rear Wheel Drive FWD - Front Wheel Drive
SRW - Single Wheel Drive DRW - Dual Wheel Drive
2WD - Two Wheel Drive 4WD - Four Wheel Drive

:closed:

n1zm0
06-20-2011, 08:58 AM
Originally posted by AE92_TreunoSC
Torque sticks cause shock and vibrations that can accelerate carpal tunnel syndrome.

I don't condone them, but I don't use them.

yeah one specific thing i remember when working for Acura was one year the top execs from the maintenance side of Honda Japan came over and told everyone to stop the use of torque sticks simply because they found alot to be out of spec from years of use and abuse across the country (that also = alot of pissed off mechanics naturally), they made it mandatory to finish off with torque wrenches, but then again what i noticed in most automotive is that sure you use a torque wrench, but when i looked at most guy's personal wrenches, it hadn't been recalibrated for 2-3+ years, what is the point in the end using a potentially out of spec torque inspection tool?...

the standard should be like aviation, 3-4 SHOP-owned torque wrenches that the company has to recalibrate every year in a staggered interval.

edit: then again, you can always just pull a car over to the side of the road of course, just hope a wheel doesnt fly off at hwy speeds... on a turn near Golden...