LF : Someone to fix my auido problem.

[mikemikemike222]

Okay so recently, my sub just stopped working.

I checked all of the easy things. (connections, fuse.)
turned out the fuse up front under the hood between the battery and amp was blown.
replaced the 30A fuse that was in it with a brand new 60A fuse.

Tried it and she still doesnt work, at this point im stumped and would rather pay someone on here some cash that knows what they are doing rather than future shop and wait 2 days.

So if anyone that knows car audio wants to make some quick cash or a case of beer pm me or reply on here!

[G-ZUS]

Check the fuse on the amp? Did the under hood blow again? Did you check your power cable for shorts? Is your amp turning on?

[n1zm0]

Originally posted by mikemikemike222
replaced the 30A fuse that was in it with a brand new 60A fuse.


why replace with a higher current rating fuse (unless the 30A wasn't 'OEM'), idk how big your amp is or the gauge of the power wire but imo youre asking for trouble doubling the current rating limit.

[triplep]

what type of amp do you have? It sounds like you checked everything but the amp itself.

Do as g-zus recommended, if you isolate the problem to the amp, then you might have fried some gate resistors and mosfets in your amp. There is a place to get it fixed however the prices are insane.... I know when 2 of my channels stopped working I took it into them, and the guy quoted me 400$ to get it fixed! Ended up paying $40 dollars for them to find out what it is, then 30$ for parts from digikey, and fixed it myself in under an hour and a half........ Forgot what the name of the company is, but if you have warranty on the amp, take it to where you bought it.

And the 60A fuse is a BIG NONO!

[mikemikemike222]

ugh of course. Im not good at car audio AT ALL i just know the basics of running a sub an amp, not troubleshooting lol.

anyway of course the idiots at future shop told me i could use a 60A with no problems and i always had the thought in the back of my mind that it shouldnt be.

the amp is a punch 225.2 and i cannot see a on amp fuse which is also confusing me.

[G-ZUS]

is there a light on your amp that shows it's on?

[n1zm0]

Originally posted by mikemikemike222


anyway of course the idiots at future shop told me i could use a 60A with no problems and i always had the thought in the back of my mind that it shouldnt be.

http://i.imgur.com/9b2vu.gif


FS installers told you its fine to double the amp rating fuse than what came out of the inline holder?!

as said you must run through the circuit from start to end, easiest is the visible components of the system - process of elimination like a multiple choice test, does the amp power on light turn on if it has any, continuity check @ the sub connections can rule out the subs internal connection as well, then after that its the power and ground wires, also can be ruled out fast by a continuity check if your multimeter is long enough (or just attach a long wire to one end of the multimeter to extend it) same goes for the grounding wire. then the deck wires, remote wire more often than not is a hidden culprit imo.

[mikemikemike222]

Originally posted by n1zm0


http://i.imgur.com/9b2vu.gif


FS installers told you its fine to double the amp rating fuse than what came out of the inline holder?!

as said you must run through the circuit from start to end, easiest is the visible components of the system - process of elimination like a multiple choice test, does the amp power on light turn on if it has any, continuity check @ the sub connections can rule out the subs internal connection as well, then after that its the power and ground wires, also can be ruled out fast by a continuity check if your multimeter is long enough (or just attach a long wire to one end of the multimeter to extend it) same goes for the grounding wire. then the deck wires, remote wire more often than not is a hidden culprit imo.

yes they did, i even asked them if they were sure and they said "oh yeah we do it all the time it doesnt hurt anything"


there is a light that turns on if the amp is on but atm i dont have anyhting hooked up as i dont really know what i am doing so i just unhooked it from the battery and left it for now.

[G-ZUS]

Originally posted by mikemikemike222


yes they did, i even asked them if they were sure and they said "oh yeah we do it all the time it doesnt hurt anything"


there is a light that turns on if the amp is on but atm i dont have anyhting hooked up as i dont really know what i am doing so i just unhooked it from the battery and left it for now.


Well go try it :banghead:


After putting in the right fuse

[mikemikemike222]

Originally posted by G-ZUS



Well go try it :banghead:


After putting in the right fuse

im aware of that, i need to go get 30A fuses now

[G-ZUS]

Maybe try picking up a phonebook and see who sells car audio, they should have them

[mikemikemike222]

Originally posted by G-ZUS
Maybe try picking up a phonebook and see who sells car audio, they should have them

Will do :thumbsup:

[triplep]

Also, it seems as though it is a 2 channel amp... Another thing you can do, once you have done all the above, and it isn't anything of that, is see if both channels are blown, or just 1 of them.... this would probably be the last thing you check though.

Audio concepts should have a fuse...

[n1zm0]

30A green ATO's are at crappy tire and partsource i know for sure, i have a box of them from when i was troubleshooting my brother's amp

[silvercivicsir]

Which Futureshop did you go to ?

[ga16i]

Ah crap. Well, the bad news is that you have an electrical short somewhere, and the worse news is that they can be VERY time consuming to find.

The general gist is trace that circuit blowing the fuse and hope that you find corrosion or fraying or something making a live wire be grounded. You may end up pulling a whole harness looking for this thing.

There's really 1 reason a circuit keeps blowing a fuse on a car.

[TE4MFaint]

If you replaced the inline 30 amp fuse with a 60 amp and its 8 gauge power wire, you're fine, I dont know what everyone else is talking about here :nut:

on your rockford amp you will probably have to take off one of the end pieces if the amp is covered with alan keys to check the fuse on the side of the amp.

next, check your ground, take a multimeter and place the negative on the ground terminal on your amp, and then the positive to the 12 volt DC on the amp. If it shows anywhere between 11.8-13 volts, then your ground is fine, if it shows any less, check your ground, reground.

then take the positive on the multimeter and place it to the remote turn on on your amp. the deck must be turned on at this point, it must show around 12 volts around, this is what triggers the amp to turn on. If it doesnt show anything, this means a few things:

broken remote turn on somewhere along the vehicle running from front to back, bad connection at the deck, or in some rare cases, the remote turn on on the deck has died (very uncommon).


check these problems then let me know. you dont have a short in the vehicle, fuses blow with voltage spikes, it happens.

[n1zm0]

Originally posted by TE4MFaint
If you replaced the inline 30 amp fuse with a 60 amp and its 8 gauge power wire, you're fine, I dont know what everyone else is talking about here :nut:



huh? according to the AWG-ampacity table i have, 8 awg wire running power transmission is around ~24A +/-1A before deterioration, having a 30A fuse inline would make sense that if it ever passed 24A and surged up to 30A or more it would blow the fuse preventing potential electrical fire or other component damage.

correct me if i'm wrong but imo if you go and drop that 60A fuse in and it surges 30,40,50Amps its as if there is no fuse at all in series = no failsafe, not an automotive audio expert or anything but thats just how i see it on paper with what facts i have to my resource. again correct me if im wrong cause i thought a stranded copper 8 awg has that ampacity of ~24 or is it alot higher?

[TE4MFaint]

Haha no worries. Every single 8 gauge power wire kit you buy with come with an inline fuse holder than ranges between 50 and 75 amps. Just need to ensure the fuse holder is no more than 12 inches away from the battery itself.

[mikemikemike222]

Originally posted by TE4MFaint
If you replaced the inline 30 amp fuse with a 60 amp and its 8 gauge power wire, you're fine, I dont know what everyone else is talking about here :nut:

on your rockford amp you will probably have to take off one of the end pieces if the amp is covered with alan keys to check the fuse on the side of the amp.

next, check your ground, take a multimeter and place the negative on the ground terminal on your amp, and then the positive to the 12 volt DC on the amp. If it shows anywhere between 11.8-13 volts, then your ground is fine, if it shows any less, check your ground, reground.

then take the positive on the multimeter and place it to the remote turn on on your amp. the deck must be turned on at this point, it must show around 12 volts around, this is what triggers the amp to turn on. If it doesnt show anything, this means a few things:

broken remote turn on somewhere along the vehicle running from front to back, bad connection at the deck, or in some rare cases, the remote turn on on the deck has died (very uncommon).


check these problems then let me know. you dont have a short in the vehicle, fuses blow with voltage spikes, it happens.

checked the amp, it does turn on..
but i looked around for a fuse on the amp itself and there isnt one.

the model is rockford fosqate 225.2

it has the LED for the turn on and it is definatly on.

i dont have a multimeter atm so i cant check the ground but the ground is grounded very nicely with grinded paint and everything.

[triplep]

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/library/manuals/55-75-125-225-man.pdf


doesn't look like there is an internal "fuse"....
if you are getting power, as per their "trouble shooting" the RCA's from the deck to the amp might be causing your problem.

However, as I previously stated, it might be one of your mosfets that are toast.... Here is a link to a person who also was blowing fuses, and one of his mosfets wasn't attached.... could be your problem... And if it is a mosfet that is fried, then most likely you have a gate resistor fried... I had this exact same problem, my amp would turn on, but nothing would come out of the speakers.. and this was the problem. Ended up being a 30$ fix with parts shipped over night. Way cheaper then the 400$ I was quoted for the repair.

http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000545;p=0

[gretz]

Make sure the sub is hooked up inside the box still / test the amp (turn the gain down) on another speaker to see if it works...

[mikemikemike222]

Originally posted by triplep
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/library/manuals/55-75-125-225-man.pdf


doesn't look like there is an internal fuse....
if you are getting power, as per their "trouble shooting" the RCA's from the deck to the amp might be causing your problem.

However, as I previously stated, it might be one of your mosfets that are toast.... Here is a link to a person who also was blowing fuses, and one of his mosfets wasn't attached.... could be your problem... And if it is a mosfet that is fried, then most likely you have a gate resistor fried... I had this exact same problem, my amp would turn on, but nothing would come out of the speakers.. and this was the problem. Ended up being a 30$ fix with parts shipped over night. Way cheaper then the 400$ I was quoted for the repair.

http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000545;p=0

to troubleshoot this i could also just hook up my friends amp and sub and see if it works?

the gauge of wire that is being used in the car is 4AWG, which runs into a swiss audio cylinder (not sure what it is since the previous owner did all the audio and i know nothing about audio) than from there goes into the amp.
the ground comes from the amp, hits the swiss audio cylinder and than goes to a solid ground.



Yes the subwoofer is hooked up i removed it from the box to make sure. / only the sub is running off of the amp, my other speakers are from the deck.

[Kavy]

Hook the amp up to another speaker, if it works its your sub.

If it doesn't reconnect the sub and take a portable device like an ipod and use a phono to rca adapter and plug it into the amp to see if it is the RCA cables from the deck or the pre's on the deck itself.

Replace wires or faulty deck/sub to correct issue.

If both of those are still no go its your amp and since its obviously getting power one is inclined to think that either the input or the outputs are non functioning. If thats the case you are better off buying a new amp versus getting it repaired unless its under warranty.

[mikemikemike222]

Originally posted by Kavy
Hook the amp up to another speaker, if it works its your sub.

If it doesn't reconnect the sub and take a portable device like an ipod and use a phono to rca adapter and plug it into the amp to see if it is the RCA cables from the deck or the pre's on the deck itself.

Replace wires or faulty deck/sub to correct issue.

If both of those are still no go its your amp and since its obviously getting power one is inclined to think that either the input or the outputs are non functioning. If thats the case you are better off buying a new amp versus getting it repaired unless its under warranty.

Alright so I'm on my phone now in my car and I just unhooked the sub wires and plugged them into one of my brand new 6.5" speaker and it works, but it's fuzzy and it's only recognizing the bass, not sure if that's good or not.

[triplep]

you should unscrew your amp, and look at it and see if there is anything wrong with it.

You are going to be looking for these http://www.electronicrepairguide.com/mosfet1.jpg
they should be similar, and they will be most likely pressed up against the rad grill.... follow those to the gate resistors


this is exactly the same issue with my amp, i'd hook up a speaker, and all i heard was fuzzy and really really quite music like barely not there.......


and you aren't better of replacing it, if it is out of warranty, learn something new and repair it yourself, even if you fail it is only going to cost you 20$ to attempt to fix it yourself.....

If you open it up any chance you can take a picture of the insides where the (above picture) things are?

It should be pretty obvious if they are toast.... though