View Full Version : 2005 Dodge SRT-4 ACR

04-02-2012, 06:20 PM
Just bought this in late March of 2012.

Orange Blast w/Pearl Coat
1 of 210 Orange ACR's ever produced
Has just 13,477km on the odometer

Should be interesting...pics to follow, eventually.

Edit: I've been meaning to compile a list of the vehicles modifications. I'm not sure it is totally complete here, but this is a pretty good list of what is in the vehicle:


DCR Stroker 2.6L
Darrell Cox Racing - 2.6L DCR Stroker Short Block High Output (Powered by CubeCart) (http://www.dcrsrt.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=8)
DCR Pro Series Head
Darrell Cox Racing - Pro Series Cylinder Head (Powered by CubeCart) (http://www.dcrsrt.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=5)
Gates Racing Timing Belt

Electronics / Engine Management:
AEM UEGO Wideband A/F Gauge
AEM Tru Boost Electronic Controller w/Gauge
AEM Pressure Gauge (Oil)
Aeroforce Scan Gauge in OEM boost gauge location

Turbo Package / Exhaust:
AGP Zeta 3.2 BB Turbocharger 82 A/R
AGP Exhaust Manifold
AGP 3Ē O2 Housing
AGP Dump Tube
AGP 38mm External Wastegate
MPx 3Ē Downpipe & Full Catless Dual Exit Exhaust

PWerks Stage 3 Tranny
RageTek Hydraulic Release Bearing
Clutch/Flywheel (Unknown, as I did not take it apart lol)
[I know I will be soon enough!]

Full Blown Dual Fuel Pumps
AGP after rail FPR & return line
AN-8 Feed, AN-8 Return
Boomba Fuel Rail
In rail fuel pressure gauge
RC Engineering 750cc Injectors
[1200cc/1400cc Injectors to go in at Dyno]

Air / Intake / Intercooling:
JMB Ultimate 3Ē CAI
Extrude Hone Intake Manifold
Boomba 70mm Throttle Body
Custom Tubes Intercooler, Anodized Black
Cold Side Hard Pipe
Turbonetics Blow Off Valve

Suspension / Axles:
Mopar Performance Stage 3 Coilover Suspension Kit
DSS Level 3 Axles

04-08-2012, 08:04 PM
2005 Dodge SRT-4 ACR
Orange Blast w/Pearl Coat
Purchased: March 22, 2012
Mileage: 13,477km

So I bought this car - it doesn't run. It is in immaculate condition inside and out for a Neon, so I intend to fix that.

Had some help pushing the car home, up the driveway and in to my garage. The car has been sitting since then, and I plan to work at this piece of neon scat at a pace that suits my elderly style.

Here it is after being pushed in to my garage.


04-08-2012, 08:08 PM
April 8th, 2012

So I decided I'd take a few minutes to look at this piece of crap whilst I bbq'd dinner tonight. Heart stopper potatos on the BBQ, Mmmmmm good.

It looked like this under the hood:


So first task is going to be to pull the engine back out. I'm not going to be using the AGP GT3076R turbo kit that is currently on it. The engine that is in the vehicle is an unturned DCR 2.6L stroker, with a DCR pro series head and the Werks Stage 3 transmission seen in the photo has been used.


Just unhooking a bunch of the wiring, and attempting to get it out to the side so I can pull the motor/transmission out. Also removed the radiator fans as well as the radiator itself to give me some extra room when pulling the motor. Didn't do much, had to go eat some killer BBQ.

04-08-2012, 08:33 PM

Werks Stage 3 Transmission (http://www.performanceautowerks.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1275)

One of these suckers costs $3000.00 USD, plus $400 freight round trip. So $3400 USD if you provide a transmission and $4050 USD if you have no core. Yikes!

Let's hope this shit works.

04-09-2012, 05:26 PM
I was supposed to build my Z this year. Frankly, I'm still missing some parts anyhow, and haven't ordered them. So I guess I'll continue collecting shit for the Z until such a time that I can put it together.

So I guess I'm going to be dealing with this ACR this spring/summer instead. I've pulled lots of engines in the past and every time I have to pull one, I've got to borrow an engine crane. I saw them on sale at Princess Auto for like $149.99 off the regular price. It was a couple weeks ago, and so I bought one. Decided to set the thing up today. So here it is, in all its glory.


04-10-2012, 07:20 PM
So if you had a keen eye, or if you could even tell from the pictures, the motor was not sitting properly in the vehicle. I noticed this before I even bought it, and just figured that the passenger side mount mount bolt was not fastened.


I was finally able to clear some space in the garage and put the car up in the air today. Removed the front wheels, and sure enough, no passenger side motor mount bolt to be found. So I just jacked the engine up, went digging through my mesmorizing magical mystery bolt supply and found an engine mounting bolt. Put that in and then snapped this photo. Circled is the bolt that was missing.


So, this is now what it looks like. Not really sure you can tell the difference from the photos, but the engine is probably sitting about 1" or more higher. All the stress of that was being placed upon the torque struts. Yikes! Anyhow, haven't done shit really. Just put it in the middle of my garage, up in the air, and ready to get a little dirty unhooking shit from underneath. Won't take me very long before I have the engine out. Just need to find the time, and unfortunately, I gotta work. How depressing is that!

I did take the time to remove the A/C condensor, and get it placed below the block. Just got a few little things to deal with before I hook up the crane and pull this motor from my orange oversized paperweight, my giant oozing heap of Neown.

04-13-2012, 10:23 PM
I had to remove the alternator to get at the tail end of the wiring harness as it was routed behind in such a way that I could not get the rest of the harness out without removing the alternator. No big deal, I was going to take it off anyhow as I like to use the bracket bolt holes for lifting the engine out.

Pulled the motor out today.

Came out pretty easy though I had it tilted just a touch more than I would have liked. Took about 10 minutes total from when I started to lift it, so I'll call that a success. Put a couple scratches in the engine bay though. And what's fucking awesome about that is no one gives a fuck. It's just a Neon.

With the engine out I can now remove the turbocharger and exhaust manifold [which is already sold]. Then I'll be waiting for the turbo charger that I ordered back in late March, shortly after I bought the car. Co-incidentally, about 30 minutes after I had the engine sitting on the floor of my garage, I got a shipment notification saying the turbo charger kit is ready to ship. Presumably that means it will actually leave on Monday of the coming week.


Now if you look at the above picture, take note of the passenger side engine mount bracket. I've not touched it. That's how it looks. Yeah. It's got 4 bolt holes. One with a bolt all the way in, 2 empty bolt holes, and as you can see, one bolt is protruding by about an inch. Awesomesauce! Glad I decided to take this engine out...I might take the transmission off just to inspect the fastening of the clutch/flywheel assembly.

Might as well, I'm there. Who knows, maybe I'll need a better clutch than whatever is in this whore of a Neon.

04-14-2012, 06:44 PM
UPS tracking info for the new turbo kit...says...

Scheduled Delivery:
Monday, 04/23/2012, By End of Day

04-17-2012, 06:15 PM

04-18-2012, 08:38 PM

I spent about 60 minutes cleaning the engine bay area. Basically about 55 minutes more than any Neon deserves. I think it's a bit cleaner than it was, and it is definitely as clean as it is ever going to get - at least whilst I own it. From here on in, it's just going to get dirtier and I don't plan on doing a damn thing about it. Looks like I missed a spot back in the passenger corner of the engine bay area. Oh well.

[The "dirty" pic is a couple posts up. It's not that dirty to begin with.]


Just wasting time while I wait for the turbo kit to arrive. Project is at a stand still until that comes, and even then, it'll be a wait as I need to order some stuff from Realtune still - and will need to wait for that to arrive before really being able to put this glorified Neon back together again.

04-19-2012, 10:41 PM
Just some more fluff pictures while I wait for parts to arrive.

The AEM Tru Boost and AEM A/F Ratio gauges.

The car also has an Aeroforce Scangauge located in the stock boost gauge position.

Here's a picture of the sub-woofer/trunk.

No, I haven't cleaned it up yet. LOL! It's in crazy good condition really.

04-24-2012, 09:03 AM
So the AGP Zeta 3.2 turbo kit has arrived.

04-24-2012, 09:35 PM
Some pictures and info on the turbo kit that is going on this hunk of neon turd.

From www.agpturbo.com:

Zeta 3.2: Our second offering featuring fully machined billet aluminum compressor wheel with flow capabilities past 77lbs/min. We build this turbo with the .63 A/R or .82 A/R turbine housing and the turbo will support past 750whp. This turbo has the normal ported shroud 4" inlet just like all the smaller Deltas, however the outlet is 2.5" so you will also need to modify your factory hot side charge pipe to adapt to the 2.5" outlet. With our ultra light weight billet compressor wheel, expect full boost around 3800rpm in the .63 and 4100rpm in the .82. We will recommend a fully built engine with 1100cc injectors and twin fuel pumps to feed the full potential of the 3.2.

Shown above, the exhaust manifold.

Shown above, the Zeta 3.2 turbo charger.

04-26-2012, 08:57 PM
Here's the manifold getting put on, just kind of mock set-up for now. I've not done up all the bolts/nuts on everything.

Hmmm, the turbo looks big, it better fucking fit with out any firewall convincing.

Here's the whole engine, with the turbo, mani, wastegate, o2 housing and heat shield on...

So that's a basic idea of how it's gonna look.

05-05-2012, 11:26 AM
Not much of an update to make. I have done nothing with the car. Though I did take some time off here for May to work on the car. So far I haven't looked at it and it is May 5th already.

That said, yesterday I received my Full Blown dual fuel pump kit.

So, you know, that's something. I ordered some Vibrant 3" flanges and will attempt to weld them to the exhaust. The exhaust on this car was one piece, welded the entire way right from the downpipe to the tailpipes! So, the owner had to cut it apart to remove things. Anyhow, I'm going to put a pair of flanges where they cut it and hope I can make it work that way. A little easier to remove/replace. If I find it is too stupid, I may just order a new exhaust system for this vehicle.

05-22-2012, 09:48 AM
I also finally opened up the Full Blown Dual Fuel Pump kit that I bought from Aaron at Realtune.


05-24-2012, 06:46 PM
Here is what the calipers look like on the ACR. This is a rear caliper, as I took the tire off just to give me some room to remove the fuel tank for the Fullblown install.



OEM rotors. I totally forgot what they look like since when mine were worn out of my '04 I will have just replaced them with el-cheap OEM equivalent rotors. Amazing the car is in such great condition. I guess that's what happens when it sits most of its life in a nice garage, and doesn't get used.

05-25-2012, 10:28 PM
Well I finally got around to taking the fuel tank out from the car. I decided I was just going to remove it completely for the purpose of installing the Fullblown dual fuel pump hanger. Iím glad I removed it actually, as opposed to just leaving it hanging by a strap, because it really let me put some force on the canister when putting it back in. Decidedly that was a real bitch, as the little rubber seal doesnít like to just play nice Ė and I found it was bending in places I didnít want it to bend. But having the tank out and emptied let me put the assembled Fullblown unit in much easier.

The Fullblown unit doesnít come with any instructions. I decided to dremel the black fitting out of the OEM canister because it was a pain in the arse trying to pry it out. I decided I was going to do more damage to the fitting if I continued to pry. Anyhow, had it out in just a couple minutes with the dremel. Could care less about my OEM canister, so this works for me.


So here Iíve used a Permatex thread sealer on the fittings that go in to the unit, as well as the barb fittings. Donít know how well it stands up to gasoline, but Iíve used it before for sealing leaky transmission bolts in a TH400. Works well for that. Presumably this will seal the threads just fine.


Here are the dual Fullblown 290-2 fuel pumps. Supposedly these flow 15% more than a stock unit, and since we've got 2 of them, I'm sure this will feed the injectors nicely.

Installed them carefully, did my soldering of the additional plug, and added the submersible fuel lines from the feed barbs to the fuel pumps.


So next I decided that I was not going to use the return line in the Fullblown unit, as I already have the AGP return line that returns to fuel to the fill tube. However, I did go ahead and fasten some fuel line to the return line barb, and clamped it. I will attach the fitting on the exterior as well, and then I plan to cap it off. If at some point, I want to use that entrance as the fuel return, it will be easy to do so.


So there it is with the return line tube installed, as well as the splash shield. So after this I just installed the float, and then put the fully assembled unit back in to the fuel tank.


Voila! That was pretty easy. I put the gasoline tank back in position, and strapped it back on. Things that I still need to deal with for this part of the project.

- I need to get a cap for the fuel return connector.
- I need to get or build a fuel pump re-wire kit, install it and use it to control the 2nd pump.
- I need to have a fuel feed hose fabricated to go from the Fullblown unit up to the rail. I will probably install the engine first, measure carefully, and then go get a hose constructed.

06-22-2012, 11:14 PM
Update for May 24th, 2012.
I decided to replace the transmission axle seals. Itís pretty easy to do anyhow, but I canít think of it getting any easier than whilst the tranny is sitting on the floor. So what the heck, I replaced both axle seals.
This morning I uncovered the car, and decided Iíd throw the engine in the car today. So here it is about to get hooked up the engine crane.


So I got it hooked up and at the angle that I wanted. Here it is in mid-air, before I get it ready to slip it in to the engine bay.


I have to open my garage door, push the car back, and then navigate the engine around until itís aligned closely. Then I push the car back in under the engine and close the garage door again. It was going pretty good, until I realized the fawking thing isnít going to fit. I was trying to use every inch of engine bay and so I had already removed the AC/auto tensioner bracket so I had room over there, but I needed to remove the AEM EMS and the bracket to give me room. I was trying to lower it in way up front, and then kind of push it back in and then up to position. It worked pretty well, and I was able to get the Zeta 3.2 past the crucial parts only after I moved the oil feed line to the other side. It wonít fit at all with those fittings coming up around the back. In any case, here is the engine getting lowered in to place.


Hereís the oil feed line that I switch-a-rooíd the direction on. This makes more sense anyhow. And itís not optional as it simply will not fit the other direction.


So, to be certain and clear, AGP says the Zeta 3.2 will fit in the car with no fire wall convincing. Well, I will agree that it does fit. No smashing required. However, when the engines main motor mounts are fastened, the Zeta 3.2 touches. As in, I can not slide a piece of paper between it and the firewall. So, yes, it fits. But it touches. Because everything seems so ridiculously close, I placed a large chunk of self-adhesive reflective heat barrier on the firewall over top of the things that run directly behind the turbo. I hope this prevents bad things from happening. And Iím open to suggestions or comments about whether or not the turbo touching the chasis is of concern, or not, and what to do about it besides bash away until there is a gap.

Next I installed the AC/auto tensioner bracket to the block. And slipped the AC condenser in to position and fastened its 4 bolts.


Then I put the PS bracket and PS reservoir on as well.


Then I decided I might as well do some other little things. I dropped in the radiator, dropped in the fans, and fastened them all back in their proper locations.


Then I bolted the AEM EMS bracket and the unit itself back in to their homes.


And I also fastened the AGP, after the rail, regulator / return line to the chassis. I also noticed that the bolts that were being used to hold the bracket on under the starter are actually the bolts that hold the transmission collar on. I noticed this a long time ago, and just figured the original owner had swapped the bolts by accident as they dropped the engine in to the car. Well, I went to remove the bolts from the collar and there were no bolts holding it on from the bottom and it was not aligned. I tapped it in to place with a hammer, and using the correct bolts I fastened the PS lines to the collar.

So pretty much this is where it is at right now:


If I havenít already mentioned it, the exhaust on this hunk of neon poop was welded all together. They cut the down pipe off to remove the engine. (A needswing one) And anyhow, I can tell thatís been done before too as there is another ugly join welded in to it. The whole damn thing is welded and Iíve decided this is super M I C K E Y M O U S E so I ordered a completely new exhaust from Modern Performance this morning. I will cut this exhaust off and be rid of that hassle.

So my things to do are looking like thisÖ

- I need to get a cap for the fuel return connector. (Done, need to install)
- I need to get or build a fuel pump re-wire kit, install it and use it to control the 2nd pump. (Ordered, but will build one if it doesn't show up in a timely fashion)
- I need to have a fuel feed hose fabricated to go from the Fullblown unit up to the rail. I will probably install the engine first, measure carefully, and then go get a hose constructed.
- I need to get a new exhaust. (Ordered)
- I need to get a fuel pressure gauge that screws in to the regulator for the return line. (Not sure why you'd have this with no frickin' gauge!)
- I need to find my charge pipe and see what needs to be done to make it work with the Zeta 3.2

Thatís up to date!!

Seems like I got a fair bit done today.

06-22-2012, 11:15 PM
So I put a bit of time in to the car last night (30 minutes) and then a couple hours today. Sad that I have literally not touched the car since my last post a month ago!

Yeah, so I started by installing the AGP dump tube, the AGP heat shield, and the AGP o2 housing.

I've received my MPx exhaust, and though I didn't take any pictures of it, it's damn shiny and the fitment is seemingly better than the MPx exhaust I bought in 2005 for my other SRT-4. Makes me wonder if they changed it. Well, anyhow, it fits nicely on the vehicle. I have not fully tightened it up, but it's in position and ready to be fastened properly.


None of the bolts on the AGP stuff, except for the waste gate and dump tube, were tightened fully. I was just making sure all this shit fits together properly. It seems to fit fine. I took note that the AGP dump tube has been smartly bent to follow the down pipe angle. My buddy has one that is straight and it's too damn long, had to get it chopped off IIRC. So it was nice to see that's been taken care of and I don't need to do anything. I'm not using the re-route kit, though I did buy one just in case I decided to go that way...

Right, so, the lower torque strut was not yet fastened, so I jacked the motor up a touch, and fastened the bolt. This actually gave me a wee bit more clearance around the turbo compressor housing. So that was nice. Then I attached the large coolant line to the block. Since this wasn't my car, and it was all taken apart when I bought it, finding shit in the mystery bucket of bolts can be interesting. Today was 100% success rate for locating fasteners. So that was nice.

Then I put the wiring harness back in to the car, did up the connectors to the sensors up front. Everything went in to place nicely.

Yeah, so then I managed to find an intake manifold gasket, a fuel rail, fuel rail spacers, fuel rail nuts, the intake manifold and holy crap, 5 bolts in a zip lock - wow! So I cleaned up the fuel rail and the intake mani just a bit. It's a Neon after all, can't waste too much time throwing this heap together.

Here is the Boomba fuel rail that came with the car after I cleaned the crap off it, and the AEM gauge which I am going to be using for my oil pressure reading. I'm putting the sender in the head and will leave the OEM sender as it is to do its job there - but I'll get my reading from the head. Yes I read the thread on srtforums about this...and I decided the head will be fine for my purposes.


So, the Boomba throttle body was still attached to the intake mani, no surprise, so it is on the vehicle now too as it went in with the intake mani. Caption obvious is obvious.

Next I decided what the heck, I'll throw in the RC 750cc injectors and put on the boomba fuel rail. I'm assuming that the tune in the AEM EMS is for the RC 750cc injectors. And while I expect it won't be proper, it will likely be lean, but I can probably use it to at least get the car running to begin with. The plan is to use the 1100cc injectors I bought from AGP with the Zeta 3.2 turbo kit. (Open to suggestions here for fuel injectors!) They are cheap, but I'm thinking if the A/F ratio is ok for gentle driving, I will put on a couple hundred clicks and then swap the injectors at the dyno.

Anyhow, I hooked up the injector clips, etc and just attempted to get the wiring slightly organized.

Here's where I ended up. As you can see, the wiring on the right is rather messy, and I will have to route things properly. But the wiring under the intake manifold is clean and organized well. The TB cable is in there nicely, and I'll attach that later.


Yeah, and so the last thing I did was goof around with the charge pipe. LMAO. I've got the one that was in use with the GT3076R turbo that was on this vehicle previously. It doesn't work. I've got one I got from kberjian which has been cut short for some other big turbo set-up and it is too short. So I'm going to still have to cut the one I've got. The turbo compressor housing alignment ain't happening, so though it is a PITA, I loosened the 6 bolts and carefully clocked the compressor housing back as far as it can go. With out doing this, the shifter cables will be in the way. So now I'm going to have to get this damn charge pipe cut to the proper length.

That's where it's at now. Can't believe I let this thing sit for a full month. Oh well.

If you've taken the time to read this, I'm going to need to know how to get the wiring for the oil pressure gauge in to the vehicle through the firewall. Where is there a place to get these wires in to the cabin? I've never done this, so I don't know and as of yet, have not looked. But I suspect there must be a trick! So I'm open to suggestions / info from the savvy before I've got to go out and use my own brain to figure it out. <smile>

07-08-2012, 12:24 AM
I had wanted to add a couple of gauges to the ACR. The first was a fuel pressure gauge attached to the regulator so I can get a visual reading of the fuel pressure while it is idling and/or on the dyno at WOT. The other gauge I wanted to add was an in the cabin oil pressure gauge. I bought an AEM pressure gauge so it would match the existing AFR and Boost gauges already in the vehicle. I also bought a new gauge pillar that will hold 3 gauges.

I decided to feed the wires through the grommet that is tucked up and away on the drivers side. The thing is absolutely stuffed with wires already! But I managed to get the huge pressure sensor plug through Ė it took a long time and was quite annoying. Unfortunately the annoyance didnít stop there, as I had to do quite a bit of messing with wires, cutting tie wraps and pulling wires back and forth just to remove the existing gauges from their pods and then get all the gauges back in to the new pillar. Anyhow, itís all worked out now, and the gauges are in place. Iíve got to get some double-sided tape to stick the new pillar over top of the OEM one to keep it in position. Then Iíll have to neat up all the wires and finish hooking up the oil pressure sensor wires for power, etc. Funny how this kind of shit eats up so much time.

On the mechanical end of things, I removed the fuel rail briefly because the upper coolant pipe clamp would not go on with the fuel rail attached. Additionally, I did not put in the oil dipstick previously, and found that difficult to do with the fuel rail fastened. I also hadnít routed the hosing for the PCV valve nor did I put the PCV valve in to the valve cover. Decided that I should maybe consider putting the main crank pulley on. Alas, the mysterious bolt bucket has failed me. Iíve got no main crank bolt. Fortunately Iíve got a spare SRT-4 engine sitting in my garage. So I stole the crank pulley bolt from that engine. Then I fastened the main crank pulley. I slipped the alternator belt over the pulley (Alternator is not yet installed) and then I put on the accessory drive belt. At this point, I noticed the auto-tensioner was never properly fastened, so I fixed that up and put the accessory drive belt on.

I retrieved the hood from my garage rafters, bolted that on and hooked up the windshield washer fluid supply line.

Hooked up the shifter cables and fastened the mounting bracket. Went inside the car and verified that the car goes in to all the gears. Took note that the throw on the shifter seems ridiculously short. I have no idea what gear shifter Iím going to find in there when I remove it. But unless for some reason I really really really like this thing after I have this heap running, I will probably remove it in favor of a Mopar STS. That is what I am used to in my other SRT-4, and I really like it a lot. Weíll see what happens.

I installed the oil pressure sender unit in to the head. I used aviation liquid sealant w/teflon on the threads. Tightened that up, and routed the wire connector to it and installed it. Also hooked up the camshaft position sensor, speed sensor, and the other sensor at the rear of the block.


Next I went under the car to route the fuel feed line. I bought the fittings and hose and just made the line myself. [Letís pray it doesnít leak, right!] So, plenty of black zip ties later, the fuel feed line has been secured.


08-30-2012, 10:19 PM
This picture just shows the routing of the fuel feed and return line. Also shows the exhaust that will be going on.


I had to remove the fitting that came with the Boomba rail, as I could not find a connector like the OEM one to use with my custom fuel feed hose. I managed to find a fitting that would go in to the rail, but it is quite short. Once the hose is fastened, the coolant cap can not be removed. Kind of sucks, and I might have to figure something else out here before I actually pressure up the fuel system.



Installed the alternator today, got that all sorted out, put the belt on and set the tension (approximately). So if it squeaks Iíll tighten it up a bit more. I removed the down pipe to get the alternator inÖ

While I am at this point, I decide to open up the ďFuel Pump Re-Wire KitĒ I ordered a while ago. I ordered this because I read somewhere that it could be used to power the second fuel pump.

I have followed the instructions included in the kit up to the point where it asks you to tie in to the OEM connector on the canister. Iím going to have to search for that thread on srtforums about thisÖas Iím sure I read one a while back, but it seemed incomplete with respect to wiring. In any case, if youíre familiar with how this should be done, please reply or post a URL to the info if it is already online. But basically Iíve got a connection directly to the alternator and that wire contains a space for an inline fuse, and then the wire continues back to the fuel canister where Iíve simply cut it until I can determine precisely what I am to do hereÖ

Iíve hooked up the ground connection to the back of the head over on the passenger side. Couldnít locate the proper bolt, and just by chance this bolt was on my spare block as it was gently threaded back in. So I stole it! Damn thankful Iíve got that block sitting here to occasionally pillage.

Iíve noticed that the transmission is leaking. It is leaking at the drain plug itself. Havenít checked yet if it is just loose, so Iím going to do that, and I am going to drain the transmission fully at this point. If there is fluid in there, I want to get it all out and put in brand new fluid. I drained the fluid, and it turns out that the plug was just loose. There are no problems here. Iíll fill all fluids later.

Last thing I decided to do today was get some miscellaneous fasteners that I was missing. I fixed all the fins on the oil cooler (lots of bent ones) and then fastened it. I put the charge pipe on, decided roughly where I was going to chop it off. Took my reciprocating saw with a bimetal blade and chopped it. Roughly it fits pretty good. I will take this to a muffler shop tomorrow to get it flared.


Yeah, so this is where weíre at now. Lots still to do, but not really. Just got to find the time to deal with it.


08-30-2012, 10:22 PM
So not too much to report.

I've dealt with a few of the problems, and I've got a few more.

I had the charge pipe beaded at the location at which I cut it. So it should be good to go. I started messing around with the battery, and the CAI. Could not figure out how it worked (other than what seemed to be obvious, and turned out to be correct!) But basically until I realized that the CAI was an JMB Ultimate 3" CAI, I was unable to make much sense of it. [I'm used to the more traditional intakes that do not go across the battery location on an agle.]

Once I had it figured out, I proceeded to locate and install the battery tray. The tray had a fastener broken off in it (Of course!) so I had to drill it and pull the broken piece out. I was then able to fasten the battery tray.


After my google search to finally find the JMB intake pictures which gave me the info I needed to confirm how these pieces go togetherÖI was led directly to another problem. The vehicle had a 4 to 3 adapter on the 3076R turbo that was on it, but I sold it with the turbo. The AGP Zeta 3.2 kit came with a 4 to 3 adapter that had a 90 in it. Thus I required a new 4 to 3 adapter. So another trip to the parts store.


So below is how the car is sitting right now:


My things to do list:
Tighten the turbo compressor housing which I clocked as much as possible for the charge pipe.
Install the charge pipe.
Tighten the o2 housing to turbo
Install the down pipe.
Fully connect and fasten properly the entire exhaust system.
Install intermediate shaft. (Missing bolts to secure this to the bracket, must source)
Install passenger side axle.
Install driver side axle.
Install the hot side intercooler piping.
Install the cold side intercooler piping / BOV and related connectors.
Install the coil pack.
Connect the coil pack to wiring harness plug.
Remove the spark plugs to see if they are any good. Replace plugs with new ones unless they are already new (possible!)
Install the plug wires.
Buy all fluids.
Fill motor with oil.
Fill power steering reservoir.
Fill coolant.
Fill transmission.
Fill clutch fluid. (DOT 3 Brake Fluid)
Determine WTF is needed for the Rage-Tek Hydraulic Throwout Bearing
(Need to know how to bleed, etc.)
Check brake fluid. Bleed brakes if necessary.
Wire up the second fuel pump.
Wire up the oil pressure guage.
Throw on the axle nuts, wheels, etc.

Double check. Triple check. Then think about prepping for first start.

08-30-2012, 10:24 PM
I cleared off a fairly large chunk of my things to do list. The car is getting quite close to being finished and Iím really looking forward to getting this car out of my garage. Itís been sitting here for nearly 4 months.

I did remove the spark plugs and noted they are brand new. The plugs were gapped very tightly. All pretty much identically, so I contacted the previous owner and asked if he had installed the spark plugs, at which point he said no that the head/long block came this way. So, apparently thatís how it came from DCR as he did nothing to it. This is what I expected to hear from him when I saw the plug gap. So the plugs are good to go, I re-gapped them all to 0.030 as that will be fine for my initial purposes. Iíll guess they were gapped at 0.020 or even less from DCR as my gauge at 0.024 wouldnít even fit through the plug gap. They were all very tight. But hey, DCR would know. So weíll assume thatís how they should be once I crank the boost up.


I did a quite lot of stuff really, and one of those things was installing the external waste gate vacuum lines, boost controller vacuum lines, etc. Just tried to neat it up, and only had to cut one new line to make it work with the new turbo.


I sort of mocked up the installation of the JMB Ultimate 3Ē CAI. Itís essentially installed properly. Just needs to have clamps tightened and the air filter installed. Itís on my to do list.

I removed the emblem at the front of the car. Iíve got my own rice to add later.


I installed the fuel return line from the rail to the fuel pressure regulator. Tightened that up. Did a bunch of zip ties on the small vacuum lines. Basic house cleaning and I will be sure to do a more thorough check later.


Things I scratched off my list of things to do, as well as some other details that were taken care of:

[Complete] Tighten the turbo compressor housing which I clocked as much as possible for the charge pipe.
[Complete] Install the charge pipe. Fastened at turbo coupler.
[Complete] Tighten the o2 housing to turbo
[Complete] Install the down pipe.
[Complete] Fully connect and fasten properly the entire exhaust system.
[Complete] Install intermediate shaft. (Missing bolts to secure this to the bracket, must source) Ė Whoa! I found some bolts that work.
[Complete] Install driver side axle.
[Complete] Install driver side axle nut, etc.
[Complete] Install the hot side intercooler piping.
[Complete] Install the cold side intercooler piping / BOV and related connectors. Hook up misc. vacuum lines as well.
[Complete] Install the coil pack.
[Complete] Connect the coil pack to wiring harness plug.
[Complete] Remove the spark plugs to see if they are any good. Replace plugs with new ones unless they are already new (possible!) [And they were new.]
[Complete] Install the plug wires.
[Complete] Hook up external waste gate vacuum lines, boost controller lines, etc. Used some heat wrap and ran them along back side of valve cover.
[Complete] Installed the large ground wire near the starter.
[Complete] Hooked up the throttle cable.
[Complete] Installed protective cover on passenger side. Re-route return line and fastened it carefully as it runs over here.

My ďwhen will it endĒ to do list:

Make a list of the cars modifications to LOL at...
Disconnect the power wire that I hooked up to the alternator to power the second fuel pump until I decide how Iím really going to hook that pump up.
Install passenger side axle.
Install passenger side wheel nut, etc.
Install passenger side wheel.
Install CAI filter.
Install driver side wheel.
Install all clamps for the CAI up to the turbo.
Install both o2 sensors in the downpipe. OEM one and the AEM wide band.
Get coolant.
Get power steering fluid.
Get gasoline. (94 octane for now)
Get brake fluid for brakes and clutch reservoir.
Get motor oil. (Will use AGP recommended 20w50 oils)
Get transmission fluid.
Fill all fluids properly.
Get an adapter for the fuel rail that sticks up further, may have to make something, but need this to not interfere with coolant reservoir cap.
Re-install new fuel fitting, tighten all fuel lines
Read install instructions for AEM oil pressure gauge, figure out how to wire that gauge up for power.
Adhere the 3-pod pillar properly so it doesnít fall down.
Determine how to fill/bleed the Rage-Tek Hydraulic Release Bearing for proper engagement of the clutch.
Then prep for first start I suppose. Maybe pray a little.

08-30-2012, 11:02 PM
So this is the start-up video I took on my phone. Unfortunately it is blurry because I let it focus on the dash while I started it up. And the camera doesn't re-focus after it is started recording.


Other than I thought it was a little noisy (from the head area) it went pretty much as expected...

I have a few more things to address with the car before I will feel comfortable taking it out on the street for a spin. I have driven it around my street (which is a large loop) a couple times just to make sure it worked.

08-30-2012, 11:18 PM
A couple little things left to do. I did already install the coolant overflow bottle. I aslo relocated the fuel pressure gauge. I put it directly on the rail, and I'm not really sure why I'd put it anywhere else. So it's on the rail now where it should be.

The car has been sitting collecting dust for 4 months. So I backed it out yesterday and took the high pressure sprayer to it. Just to get most of the dust off it quickly.


And here is a picture of the car from the side. So you can see the wheels that are on it, as well you can see that it has fully tinted windows. I'm going to have the window tint on the front driver / passenger side removed. I guess I'll keep the tint around the back, since that is legal here. The front sides are not and 20 years ago, I'd have kept it that way anyhow. But now I'd rather be able to see than look cool. Hahah.


08-30-2012, 11:20 PM
August 5th, 2012

Pretty much finished off the car today. Spent about an hour or so on it. On my drive around my street I noticed the speedo didn't work. The fuel gauge didn't work. The odo didn't work. It was a 0.6km trip and the odo read 0.0km.

After trying to seat the clip for the speed sensor on the tranny, it was clear I was not going to be able to get it on properly. I thought I had possibly damaged this when I was installing it - and in fact I did. (I tried to jam the wrong plug in to it, and pushed with pretty reasonable force before I realized I was using the wrong connector - so this damage is totally my stupidity!)

I jacked up the car, removed the oil cooler bolts and let it dangle down. Then I removed the speed sensor. Inside I found a nice little mess. One of the pins was bent right to the ground, folded twice and flattened. As opposed to pissing with that, I went to my '04's OEM tranny in my shed, removed the speed sensor and installed that sensor in to the vehicle. Hooked it up, plug seated nicely, and around the block I went again. A trip for which the speedo worked, the fuel gauge worked, and the odo read 0.6km after my trip.

I wired up the AEM pressure gauge [used for my oil pressure reading at the head] for power and a ground. I used the fused power from the windshield wipers. It works great. Gauge reads nicely and it's good to have the oil pressure reading at my disposal.

I used some adhesive backed velcro to hold the triple gauge pod pillar overlay on. Works well. Should be easier to get off than double-sided foam tape.

Here is the very first engine bay picture I've taken of the car outside in the sunlight! Ooohh. Aaaaah.


As you can see, I have added my little rice items. The angry viper CNC emblem, and the SRT logo.

Looks like it's ready to roll out. Sounds like an absolute beast. It's going to be fun.

UPDATE: I've had the car 4 years and have not really used it. So it's not listed for sale but I'd sell it.