RV Camping; Tips, tricks & repairs [Archive] - Beyond.ca - Car Forums

C_Dave45

09-02-2012, 02:33 PM

Seeing as there are more and more beyonders getting into RV's I thought this might be an appropriate sub-forum.

Just finished a small repair on our RV, that, when it happened, pretty much crippled us for water.

The supply hoses that go to the bathroom sink. Well on our last trip, the little plastic connector broke. The only way to repair it is with 1/2" crimpers. The campground host didn't have any so I just "MacGiver'd" it by bending the pex pipe and taping it. It didn't seal completely, but slowed it to a drip, so that at least we were able to have running water to all the other taps.

Today I bought new brass supply connectors, as well added two in-line, brass shut offs. It's regular 1/2" Pex, so you can get everything at Home Depot. Do NOT buy them at the RV places. The shut-offs were $18 each at Woody's...$12 at Home Depot. They're not necessary but handy for future repairs. $10 for crimper rental, 20 minutes of time and Bob's yer Uncle.. it's better than new!!

http://www.homedepot.ca/wcsstore/HomeDepotCanada/images/catalog/10463.121-PX3-PX3_4.jpg

AndyL

09-02-2012, 05:38 PM

Water heater drain valve, 65$ at most places, + shipping + 10days, is easily replaced with a 1/4" mpt to 3/8" mpt brass bung and a stainless ball valve, at a cost of 9$ works 10,000x better too, drain in 2-3 minutes not 2-3 hours like the factory petcock...

oh and you have to trim the handle an inch...

clemmy26

09-02-2012, 05:54 PM

A little late in the season, no?

C_Dave45

09-02-2012, 06:28 PM

Originally posted by clemmy26
A little late in the season, no?
Never. I've got two or three more trips to go. Plus MacLean creek is open year round. With power!

AndyL

09-02-2012, 07:30 PM

There's no such thing as too late in the season ;)

ExtraSlow

09-22-2012, 07:51 PM

Word, you can camp pretty late in the fall even with a non-winterized rig. I know my furnace fan draws a shitton of power, so it's really nice to have a plug-in for cold weather. None of my tanks are winterized, so I'd be worried about staying out if the daytime was below freezing.

That being said, you can do a lot without the tanks if you choose to.

hedge

09-24-2012, 09:49 AM

For rv's Shark bites and flair-it fittings work well with the pex and you don't need pliers. I keep a few valves and connectors and some spare pex to make in the field repairs. Never had to use it yet, but I like to be prepared.

hedge

09-24-2012, 09:56 AM

Originally posted by AndyL
Water heater drain valve, 65$ at most places, + shipping + 10days, is easily replaced with a 1/4" mpt to 3/8" mpt brass bung and a stainless ball valve, at a cost of 9$ works 10,000x better too, drain in 2-3 minutes not 2-3 hours like the factory petcock...

oh and you have to trim the handle an inch...

I'm sure most seasoned RV'ers would know this but for the beginners I'd like to point out that the drain valve is only for Atwood (aluminum) tanks, with the Suburban tanks you need to keep the sacrificial anode rod in the tank so don't replace it with a drain valve.

I also camp pretty deep into the season, I flush the toilet with a/f and we use a blue jug for fresh water. I just picked up a truck camper and plan on using it this winter on quadding trips.

ExtraSlow

09-24-2012, 10:41 AM

The water tank on some truck campers will hold heat pretty well because it's not exposed to the elements as badly as on some trailers, so you're good for several days in moderate temps before it starts to freeze. I've even heard of people filling the tank with warm water at home and it'll stay unfrozen for a weekend at least.
That's introducing some extra risk though . . .

spikerS

01-27-2013, 08:14 PM

*BIZZUMP*

Alright, since camping season is coming up, and I just bought a new rig, I am starting to research different things, and here is one...

Scenario is as such:
4 people using this RV. It is a 2006 Springdale SG189FL06
I am the only guy. The others are Baygirl, a 4 year old, and an 8 year old
Sadly, things like little portable DVD players will be used and charging of Nintendo DS units, phones, lights, pumps, stereo, ect.

lets say I want to have power for a week of dry dock camping.

My idea is running 2 x 6v batteries wired in series.

But here is a thought I am having too.

Solar power...

How effective is solar power going to be in keeping these batteries charged? is it going to be a constant losing battle where over a long enough time, I will drain the batts completely, or can I set something up where anything I use overnight, the solar panels can charge the batts back up to 100% over the course of the day?

I can't even fathom the kind of math needed to figure this kind of thing out, and I am hoping there are enough people on here that would have more experience...

HALP!

C_Dave45

01-27-2013, 09:17 PM

It CAN be done...but it's not cheap, and it is quite complicated. This guy really knows his stuff, and he has a long blog about how to do it. I was going to try setting mine up that way...but I just don't have the money. Here's his blog: https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/the-rv-battery-charging-puzzle-2/

We have camped as long as two weeks dry. The two 6-volts lasted us about 5 days. After that I would hook the car up to it about every second day. Don't plug it in through the trailer wire...turn the car around and hook up directly to the batteries using heavy duty jumper cables. That way you're getting a full 14+ volts of charging. I'll run the car for an hour or so and that will give them a good charge.

We find the troubles aren't worth it, and end up just finding powered camping. For long hauls (a week or longer) it's so nice to have every single light on, microwave, PS3's, radios, etc, and not have to worry about a thing.

For long weekends, the two 6 volts will do. I even bring along a 12 volt marine battery, and hook up an inverter to it, that will run the PS3 and a 32 inch LCD TV for a good few hours. THen throw it in the car to charge it again.

spikerS

01-27-2013, 09:35 PM

man Dave, I really need to go camping with you for a weekend to learn all these kinds of tips.

Supa Dexta

01-27-2013, 09:52 PM

Generator ftw... I have an eu3000 and I added a wheel kit and remote starter.. Thats a little extreme though..

Ive seen guys use those little 900w, $100 2stroke gens from canadian tire though, to keep their batteries topped up, and they worked great and weren't all that loud for short time use.

C_Dave45

01-27-2013, 10:02 PM

Originally posted by spikers
man Dave, I really need to go camping with you for a weekend to learn all these kinds of tips.

LOL...it's all been 'trial by fire', so I'm only too happy to pass along anything I've learned. Usually the hard way. lol.

Originally posted by Supa Dexta
Generator ftw... I have an eu3000 and I added a wheel kit and remote starter.. Thats a little extreme though..

Ive seen guys use those little 900w, $100 2stroke gens from canadian tire though, to keep their batteries topped up, and they worked great and weren't all that loud for short time use.

Yeah genny's are nice. You'd need at least a 3000 to run your AC though. The Yamaha i3000 inverter and that Honda you have are the only way to go. Whisper quiet. Run a 50 foot cord, and put them in the bush behind a berm, and you wouldn't even hear them.
But they're also around 2500 dollars.

AndyL

01-27-2013, 10:08 PM

Solar ftw! We've got the Costco special (200?240w?) Pair of monster deep cycles (Costco again, the big marine deep cycles) we can go 8 days of wet/rainy/cold in the shade camping before we need a charge... with the furnace on....

Yes we've tested that a time or 3 ;) morning of day 8 I usually end up spinning the truck around to get water and furnace running for the girls...

Get 12v adapters for the toys, running an inverter is big wattage and you loose most in heat, almost all the toys run on 12v anyway...

codetrap

01-27-2013, 11:21 PM

Hey Spikers.. I did a solar installation on my pop up last summer, and got to use it twice... my total cost sink was about $300 for a 60W system. On my initial test in the driveway, it charged my battery to full in 2 days.. the 80% mark was one day.

I haven't done the math on what it will do under load, but the 3 days I got to use it last year I didn't have any issues at all with it charging, in the fall, in a fairly tree'd area. You're welcome to see it, and I have all specs. Took me about a day to install and make it pretty.

Oh, and if all else fails...
http://reviews.costco.ca/2070-en_ca/10338741/champion-champion-2000-w-inverter-generator-reviews/reviews.htm

spikerS

01-27-2013, 11:51 PM

Well, the RV we bought does have A/C, I really doubt we will use it, so I am hoping I can rig up a solar setup, or even pick up a smaller inverter genset to charge up the batts every so often. was hoping to go solar just for the ease of not having to start up a genny, or top up with gas. The idea of whenever the sun is shining, my batts are a charging really appeals to me. I just wish I understood all the details a lot better

redline

01-28-2013, 06:24 AM

Originally posted by C_Dave45

LOL...it's all been 'trial by fire', so I'm only too happy to pass along anything I've learned. Usually the hard way. lol.

Yeah genny's are nice. You'd need at least a 3000 to run your AC though. The Yamaha i3000 inverter and that Honda you have are the only way to go. Whisper quiet. Run a 50 foot cord, and put them in the bush behind a berm, and you wouldn't even hear them.
But they're also around 2500 dollars.

I paid around 1800 from my Yamaha i3000, it is the only way to dry camp.

Supa Dexta

01-28-2013, 07:36 AM

New or used?^ You can usually find eu3000's for around that price used on kijiji.

If you're just charging batts you can find the 2000w suitcase gens for around a grand.

Thing is these higher end gens will last forever, they sip gas and make no noticeable noise.

AndyL

01-28-2013, 07:43 AM

Originally posted by spikers
The idea of whenever the sun is shining, my batts are a charging really appeals to me. I just wish I understood all the details a lot better
That's what I prefer...

You can read way too much into it, you can design the living shit out of it... but the basics are the same, beef up your capacity first - stuff as many of the biggest batteries you can into that trailer... then find a solar panel that fits the budget - see what happens...

I wouldn't waste time on small solar panels, <100w isn't going to get you much... I'd eyeball those 120w sunforce kits as a minimum...

Then test, see what ya get out of it, then you can look at tweaking power use - led lights etc.

ExtraSlow

01-28-2013, 08:04 AM

Reminder to any of you who like to reserve your spots. Online registration for the summer opens Feb 19th.

I'm thinking of grabbing one weekend in Bow Valley (so darned close), and maybe another down in Cypress HIlls. Anyone been there?

Some of my favourite spots aren't reservable.

I'm also torn about long weekends. I often stay home just to avaoid all the idiots who camp on those dates, but it really is nice to be out for an extra day. Maybe I'll make my own long weekend by adding in a few days of vacation.

codetrap

01-28-2013, 08:30 AM

http://www.sunforceproducts.com/solar_calculator.php

Masked Bandit

01-28-2013, 01:59 PM

Has anyone bought the generators at Costco? I'm wondering how noisy they are. I've heard the the Honda lineup is king when it comes to quiet operation but they are pricey. Are the Yamaha units as quiet? I don't want to be the jerk in the campground that runs a noisy generator.

Edit: After a bit of research the Honda EU3000 series is rated at 48 dB at 7M. The Costco equivalent is rated at 65 dB at the same distance. I have no frame of reference on this. Is it going to be a significant difference in the real world?

The ~3000W units seem to be the ones that most people need to supply the RV assuming they want to run their AC.

C_Dave45

01-28-2013, 02:16 PM

Originally posted by Masked Bandit
Has anyone bought the generators at Costco? I'm wondering how noisy they are. I've heard the the Honda lineup is king when it comes to quiet operation but they are pricey. Are the Yamaha units as quiet? I don't want to be the jerk in the campground that runs a noisy generator.

Edit: After a bit of research the Honda EU3000 series is rated at 48 dB at 7M. The Costco equivalent is rated at 65 dB at the same distance. I have no frame of reference on this. Is it going to be a significant difference in the real world?

The ~3000W units seem to be the ones that most people need to supple the RV assuming they want to run their AC.

Those chinese knock-offs (ie: Champion, etc) are all EXTREMELY loud!! Like I mean, if it's running at one end of the campground, you can hear it at the other end. My sister rented a 5th wheel, and they include a Champion generator. She camped beside us, so about 50 yards away through the bush...it was hard to talk to each other sitting outside our trailer.

Conversely a guy had the EU3000 a few spots over...we were walking by his site...could see the unit in plane view, maybe 50 feet away....I didn't know it was running!! Went up to talk to him about it, and standing right beside it, we could talk normally without any problem or annoyance.

Masked Bandit

01-28-2013, 02:26 PM

I know those Champion ones you're talking about and I think up until recently that's all Costco sold. The ones they have on their website now are "Powerhouse" brand. The difference seems to be that the old Champion ones were the plain "motor sitting in a steel tube frame" set up. The Honda, Yamaha & new Powerhouse ones all look like the same boxed up configuration (everything contained within a sound-deadening box).

http://www.costco.ca/Powerhouse%c2%ae-PH3100Ri-Inverter-Generator-with-Remote-Starter.product.10354943.html

I had no idea how heavy these things were (~130 lbs)!

They Yamaha units seem to be quieter than the Powerhouse units but slightly louder than the Honda set up.

Supa Dexta

01-28-2013, 02:33 PM

Yeah be near a 160lbs with fuel and oil

But the sound is UNREAL.. As mentioned you could stand right over mine and not be bothered by it. I think the 3000 is even quieter then the 2k in real world use from what I've seen.

48db to 65db is a HUGE difference since its a log scale. Normal convo is around 60db.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decibel

C_Dave45

01-28-2013, 02:38 PM

Hmmm. Those look interesting! The loud ones usually go for the $500 range....so this one might be a bit better. I might even take a jog up to Costco and see if they can start one up for me. I like the built in remote start!!.

Supa Dexta

01-28-2013, 02:41 PM

Adding remote start to mine was one of the best things I've done! Such a PITA to run in and out all the time otherwise.

C_Dave45

01-28-2013, 02:45 PM

I'm torn on what to do. Personally I hate generators. Period. I don't even like going to non-powered sites, only because more and more people are getting generators, and usually the loud ones. God, some mornings they get cranked up all over the place. I'm sitting in the morning sunrise with my coffee and it's loud as hell. The wifey is all over getting one, saying "we can go anywhere then!!". The reality of it is though, we camp almost exclusively in Kananaskis. There's plenty of great campgrounds that have power. And lemme tell you...those "powered" sites...you can hear a pin drop no matter what time of the day. NO ONE runs their generators. So I lean more and more to those type campgrounds.
For short trips, long weekends, etc, my batteries and small inverter are more than enough, so we'll do places like Lundbreck, Crowsnets pass, etc...
Spending a couple of grand, and adding 200 lbs to our already packed trailer, just doesn't appeal to me all that much.

ExtraSlow

01-28-2013, 02:48 PM

Keep in mind how the dB scale works. 65 dB is A LOT more than 48 dB at the same distance.

Edit, I'm with you Dave. I like to hear the birds chirping in the morning. a single gernator anywhere in the campground and I'm going to hear it, and be annoyed. I don't have AC in my rig, and I don't want it.

Masked Bandit

01-28-2013, 02:54 PM

Originally posted by C_Dave45
I'm torn on what to do. Personally I hate generators. Period. I don't even like going to non-powered sites, only because more and more people are getting generators, and usually the loud ones. God, some mornings they get cranked up all over the place. I'm sitting in the morning sunrise with my coffee and it's loud as hell. The wifey is all over getting one, saying "we can go anywhere then!!". The reality of it is though, we camp almost exclusively in Kananaskis. There's plenty of great campgrounds that have power. And lemme tell you...those "powered" sites...you can hear a pin drop no matter what time of the day. NO ONE runs their generators. So I lean more and more to those type campgrounds.
For short trips, long weekends, etc, my batteries and small inverter are more than enough, so we'll do places like Lundbreck, Crowsnets pass, etc...
Spending a couple of grand, and adding 200 lbs to our already packed trailer, just doesn't appeal to me all that much.

I can agree with you on the noisy non-powered section of the campground Dave. It almost seems counter-intuitive eh! Set in with the tenters and here a bunch of noise first thing in the morning. That's why I'm actually ranking the unit noise factor so high on my decision, I don't want to be the jerk disturbing everyone else. At the same time I don't want to be scared to run mine either simply due to noise.

Good, cheap & quiet. Pick any two.

AndyL

01-28-2013, 03:33 PM

We usually hit the back country sites, where expensive rigs don't go - so we don't have to listen to gensets...

There's nothing worse than the sounds of generators on vacation. When we run into them, we roam onto the next site... even the Honda's are an annoying noise...

spikerS

01-28-2013, 03:47 PM

I bought a 3300 champion. fuck I hated it, I mean it worked, but I put it on a 100ft extension cord, and it was still loud. I would only consider a inverter genset now. at 45db is going to be really quiet compared to the champion I had.

looks like Canadian Tire has a yardworks brand of inverter gensets. anyone know anything about those?

spikerS

01-28-2013, 04:02 PM

oh, and now another question!

Was talking to the guys at interstate batteries, and they said that for $320 they could hook me up with 2x6v batts for the trailer.

Is it a good deal? these batts any good? should I look elsewhere for a better price? Or should I just jump on these?

C_Dave45

01-28-2013, 04:26 PM

Originally posted by spikers
oh, and now another question!

Was talking to the guys at interstate batteries, and they said that for $320 they could hook me up with 2x6v batts for the trailer.

Is it a good deal? these batts any good? should I look elsewhere for a better price? Or should I just jump on these?
If they're Trojan T105's that's a great deal. I paid $190 each for mine. If they're "no name"....no idea.

The rule of thumb is "you can't beat Trojan T105's". That is the standard for the best RV setup.
That being said...a lot of people just buy a couple "deep cycle/marine 12 volts" at Costco, hook them in parallel, and then "return" them when they go bad.

YMMV.

Supa Dexta

01-28-2013, 04:34 PM

Everyone always tries to find cheaper gen's, the fact is they come no where close to the high end ones.. But you have to justify the price to yourself the same as anything else.

AndyL

01-28-2013, 05:11 PM

The rv.net guys have some pretty good ideas on quieting down the cheap sh*t... But... They're still loud/annoying IMHO. But I get irritated even by the eu3000s...

Kirkland - costco for your batteries. They've got the 6v golf cart batteries and people like me prefer the marine units; mine are 5yrs old now, and still as good as new. (side benefit of solar, keeps them topped up through winter; just check water levels usually around xmas (think I added a L to the 2 batteries this year). Price is better - and costco warranty FTW.

codetrap

01-28-2013, 06:35 PM

My champion 2k invertor isn't loud at all. I've had it under the trailer and had a nap in the trailer without an issue. It's 53dB when running..

http://www.championpowerequipment.com/generators/73531i/

USED1

01-28-2013, 08:07 PM

I've got the Yamaha 2400 and it is quiet and can run my air conditioner just fine. I couldn't live without it now.

Ven

01-28-2013, 10:05 PM

Originally posted by codetrap
My champion 2k invertor isn't loud at all. I've had it under the trailer and had a nap in the trailer without an issue. It's 53dB when running..

http://www.championpowerequipment.com/generators/73531i/

I have that one and am extremely happy with it. Noise is nothing, even at full load. Can't hear it run from inside the trailer at all. Did a proper break in on it and run full synthetic oil. 3 years old now and perfect. The cost to benefit ratio between this and a Honda/Yamaha was just to far apart for me.

redline

01-28-2013, 10:40 PM

Originally posted by Supa Dexta
New or used?^ You can usually find eu3000's for around that price used on kijiji.

If you're just charging batts you can find the 2000w suitcase gens for around a grand.

Thing is these higher end gens will last forever, they sip gas and make no noticeable noise.

New, but honestly that was about 6 years ago

redline

01-28-2013, 10:48 PM

Originally posted by C_Dave45

If they're Trojan T105's that's a great deal. I paid $190 each for mine. If they're "no name"....no idea.

The rule of thumb is "you can't beat Trojan T105's". That is the standard for the best RV setup.
That being said...a lot of people just buy a couple "deep cycle/marine 12 volts" at Costco, hook them in parallel, and then "return" them when they go bad.

YMMV.

:werd: that's what I have and they are great

saunD

03-25-2013, 01:08 PM

In the spirit of helping out fellow RV generator users ,, here is a great guide to help you determine what size of generator you will need :) ... Hope this helps everyone out just a little more :D

http://www.norwall.com/blog/generator-sizing-guides/sizing-guide-for-portable-generators/

Supa Dexta

06-02-2013, 07:04 AM

Just wanted to mention a few of the things I've been up to.

Best mod of the season so far has been updating the audio - I put in a new blue tooth cd player to replace the old stock cassette unit + new speakers. What a difference, now I can stream satellite radio or music off my phone, control the volume..etc from in the bedroom or sitting outside.

I also swapped to all LED lights inside, they are the t10 style wedge bulbs, I got them off ebay for 20 or 30 dollars for the works. The brightest ones are the 12smd and the other ones have like 25 tiny smd's and are slightly less bright, so I used them in the bedroom above my head where I dont need a bright light.. Get the warm white ones and they are a great light.. Around 1watt a piece, so you can run all 20 bulbs for what one of the old bulbs used (18-20w)

I also decided to update the interior a bunch. I'll post some pics ina bit.

Supa Dexta

06-02-2013, 07:42 AM

Alright, so the biggest issue was a leak in the top corner of the slide out, that I had put off dealing with for too long. So ripped it all out and rebuilt it.

http://s13.postimg.org/7pu7cckt3/20130429_160706.jpg

http://s14.postimg.org/ast1mirhd/20130501_091756.jpg

http://s9.postimg.org/fmssag5in/20130501_105057.jpg

http://s23.postimg.org/89cxgce0b/20130522_125832.jpg

Next was interior, getting rid of the ugly colours and fabric that were used in '98, and doing some more hardwood work.

http://s7.postimg.org/y7xblcg97/20130523_144242.jpg

http://s10.postimg.org/qd60yih5l/20130529_232841.jpg

went from these ugly curtain boxes

http://s21.postimg.org/97vl7i40n/20130530_100928.jpg

to these

http://s8.postimg.org/9m140o4p1/20130530_103355.jpg

http://s24.postimg.org/rzlwo18tx/20130429_080257.jpg

and did the other stuff - ignore the mess

http://s12.postimg.org/aan1psdu5/20130424_123629.jpg

and the bedroom

http://s3.postimg.org/w32r943ir/20130424_162511.jpg

All the harware in the kitchen and bathroom used to be gold, so I painted it, to match.. handles, lights, furnace vents, hardwood trim.. etc

http://s22.postimg.org/n4uxagrmp/20130511_154344.jpg

http://s22.postimg.org/ewxl37p41/20130514_123322.jpg

And my latest gem - I made a piece of oak to match the drawer and cover the hole that used to be the big cassette player. I stained it to match and installed a new sony blue tooth cd player.

http://s22.postimg.org/8gomd4gkh/20130601_153541.jpg

It turned out pretty good.. So thats what Ive been up to with mine.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

hedge

06-02-2013, 08:28 AM

^ that's nice work there.

AndyL

06-02-2013, 09:19 AM

:eek: Holy swizzlesticks! Where was the leak coming from to create that mess?

spikerS

06-02-2013, 02:31 PM

Originally posted by Supa Dexta

And my latest gem - I made a piece of oak to match the drawer and cover the hole that used to be the big cassette player. I stained it to match and installed a new sony blue tooth cd player.

http://s22.postimg.org/8gomd4gkh/20130601_153541.jpg

It turned out pretty good.. So thats what Ive been up to with mine.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Which head unit is that, and how much did it run you? The current head unit in my trailer sucks balls, and I want to replace it with something better.

Supa Dexta

06-02-2013, 03:33 PM

Sony...wx90 something or other? Its on future shops site.. 179$

The leak was coming right from a corner of the roof, so it spreads as it goes down.. since all these are is chip board.

The thing with campers is, you won't know you have a leak until the wall gets soft.. I opened mine this spring and it seemed musty.. and it lingered, so I knew it was more than just from sitting. So always poke around in the corners to spot soft spots, especially when buying a used one.

nzwasp

06-03-2013, 02:03 PM

After reading about you guys and your 2 x 6 volt golf batteries, I feel like the trailer that we bought that has 3 x 12 volt marine batteries (running in parallel) is a bit overkill for running one 12v 2cu ft fridge all the time and a couple of lights inside.

We also have 3 solar panels to trickle charge the 3 batteries.

edit: must be 12 volt to provide 12volt power.

spikerS

06-03-2013, 02:46 PM

Originally posted by nzwasp
After reading about you guys and your 2 x 6 volt golf batteries, I feel like the trailer that we bought that has 3 x 12 volt marine batteries (running in parallel) is a bit overkill for running one 12v 2cu ft fridge all the time and a couple of lights inside.

We also have 3 solar panels to trickle charge the 3 batteries.

edit: must be 12 volt to provide 12volt power.

I am confused...

You have 3 of the 18v batteries, or do you have 3 of the 6v batteries to make 18v?

I don't know a lot about electrical, but will the fridge and stereo and such work off of 18v?

ExtraSlow

06-03-2013, 02:50 PM

you can run three 12v in parallel to provide 12v total, that must be your setup. I don't think that's a common way to set it up, I always hear about putting the 2 6v batts in series as the "good" way to do it.

I run a single 12v, and my fridge runs off propane or shore power, not the batts, so what do I know.

nzwasp

06-03-2013, 02:59 PM

Originally posted by spikers

I am confused...

You have 3 of the 18v batteries, or do you have 3 of the 6v batteries to make 18v?

I don't know a lot about electrical, but will the fridge and stereo and such work off of 18v?

I have 3 x 12v.

Also have 3 ways to charge it - a mobile solar array
Battery charger
and a Gas generator.

I think the people I bought from liked to go for 2 weeks to middle of nowhere. I think I can run my one fridge for 5 days straight without charging the batteries, now that might not be very good for the batteries.

The thing that bugs me a little bit is that there are 110v outlets in the trailer but I cant use them because there is no inverter in the trailer - they had 3 past inverters which all failed. This would be a situation if I was at an unserviced campground.

Supa Dexta

06-04-2013, 03:52 AM

Mine came with 2x12v, and again no 120v unless on generator.

And the fridge needs 12v for the igniter for the propane, not many will run off of 12v alone, I hardly ever see them. Heres a thread on them - http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5723

Generally a fridge will use about 1 pound of propane a day.. I have 2 - 30lb tanks.

I know my cousin uses one of those power packs from canadian tire to power 120 in his camp (1800w maybe?).. he can run quite a while without the generator, with led lights, even new tv's only use 100w or something, so his kids can watch tv all evening. Then if you're using the microwave or coffee pot..etc for breakfast it charges the power pack.

Since I had wood stain left over, I started going over some things.. It got out of hand and next thing I knew I was doing everything!

The wood has dried out and faded over the years, so this is really bringing it back.. Im even doing the free standing table and chair set.. Ill post some comparison pics.

new stain on left vs faded on the right -
http://s12.postimg.org/eoinzckrh/20130603_170235.jpg

ExtraSlow

06-04-2013, 05:39 AM

Hey this question may belong here. The 30 lb tanks on my trailer have expired. Where is the best place to get them re-certified and how much does it cost? Currently I'm just running on a single 20lb tank that I carry in the truck, and that would last me a week or more. I figure the fridge and furnace use about 1.5 lbs per day for summer camping.

Still, it came with 2x30lb, s I ought to keep it that way for resale.

C_Dave45

06-04-2013, 06:59 AM

Originally posted by ExtraSlow
Hey this question may belong here. The 30 lb tanks on my trailer have expired. Where is the best place to get them re-certified and how much does it cost? Currently I'm just running on a single 20lb tank that I carry in the truck, and that would last me a week or more. I figure the fridge and furnace use about 1.5 lbs per day for summer camping.

Still, it came with 2x30lb, s I ought to keep it that way for resale.
It costs about the same to re-certify as it does for new ones. Go to Costco. I picked up mine for $80 for the pair. The RV place wanted $89 EACH!!!

nzwasp

06-04-2013, 09:47 AM

So while transporting our trailer from the previous owner to our driveway I think something came loose and now our brake/signal lights are running off the trailer battery. Not sure how a shaken loose cable can cause that.

Anyway I looked at the wiring and nothing is labelled and its a bit of a mess, can anyone recommend me a place (maybe that hobo place) to get the problem fixed and if possible everything labelled properly.

I also want to get the old lights replaced with led lights but i reckon I could do that myself.

Cos

06-04-2013, 11:52 AM

Supa Dexta

06-04-2013, 12:17 PM

nzwasp

06-04-2013, 01:38 PM

Originally posted by Supa Dexta

What does this mean exactly? Your lights are staying on after you unplug from the tow vehicle?

yes exactly

C_Dave45

06-04-2013, 03:02 PM

Originally posted by Cos

Or deal with the propane swap companies at Walmart. I think it is $59.99 to buy a tank the first time then forever you just pay $15 or $20.00 to swap it over. Never have an expired tank again.
They don't do the 30lb'ers. Just the 20's.

Also, this isn't the greatest idea, because you either have to drain your tank completely, or you're giving them a partially filled tank, so you're throwing away good propane.

spikerS

06-04-2013, 03:42 PM

Originally posted by C_Dave45

They don't do the 30lb'ers. Just the 20's.

Also, this isn't the greatest idea, because you either have to drain your tank completely, or you're giving them a partially filled tank, so you're throwing away good propane.

and the cost to swap the tank is more than just a regular refill too.

ExtraSlow

06-04-2013, 05:24 PM

Originally posted by nzwasp
So while transporting our trailer from the previous owner to our driveway I think something came loose and now our brake/signal lights are running off the trailer battery. Not sure how a shaken loose cable can cause that.

Anyway I looked at the wiring and nothing is labelled and its a bit of a mess, can anyone recommend me a place (maybe that hobo place) to get the problem fixed and if possible everything labelled properly.

I also want to get the old lights replaced with led lights but i reckon I could do that myself. Hobo can take care of that.
Originally posted by Cos

Or deal with the propane swap companies at Walmart. I think it is $59.99 to buy a tank the first time then forever you just pay $15 or $20.00 to swap it over. Never have an expired tank again.
Originally posted by spikers

and the cost to swap the tank is more than just a regular refill too.
Those Tank Swap places are a decent deal as long as you value the hassle of re certifying the tank more than your money. You are definitely paying for convenience. None of them do the 30lb tanks as far as I know. If Costco is really $80 for two full 30 lb tanks, I'll buy there for sure. I think recerts were something like thirty bucks for a 30 lb tank, each, plus a fill, at $18 each.

spikerS

06-04-2013, 06:08 PM

nah, filling twice a year, those tanks are ~$7 more per fill. A tank is good for 12 years. simple math says I can buy new tanks cheaper than using that program.

The only time this becomes useful is when there are no gas stations near by to refill them when you run out.

Supa Dexta

06-04-2013, 06:30 PM

Originally posted by nzwasp

yes exactly

Break away cable? :dunno:

ExtraSlow

06-04-2013, 06:34 PM

Tank is good for 10 years from date of manufacture, which can be a year before you bought it, so you are buying or recertifying tanks every nine years.

EDIT, fat fingered the numbers, it's Ten years.

Cos

06-04-2013, 07:45 PM

ExtraSlow

06-04-2013, 08:04 PM

Ten Years, I'm pretty sure.

nzwasp

06-04-2013, 09:27 PM

Yeah I called hobo camper today regarding my electrical issues, they charge $131 an hour and said it would take around an hour to wire it up. I think though that I need all the cables replaced - I still dont think it will take that long but I might get a pro rather than tackling it myself.

I discovered tonight that not only do my brake and signal lights not turn off after the car is disconnected but when the car is connected now they also dont work when I signal left / right or hit the brakes. So im guessing that when I moved the car something shorted out.

Supa Dexta

06-05-2013, 02:57 PM

I mentioned a break away cable above. Its generally a little black box with a cable tied to a pin, that attaches to your vehicle - and if it unhitches, the pin is pulled locking up the brakes, rather than having a run away trailer.

The thing with those is though, is that your brakes should be locked up, and they will eat power very quickly, 3-5 amps will run to each wheel. I suspect it would cause your brake lights to stay on once unhitched.. It could blow a fuse on your tow vehicle, causing no lights when hooked up.. But its odd there would be lights unhitched, so its just a shot in the dark guess.

Is the trailer plugged in, in your driveway? That could cause it to be charging from shore power, and once hooked to a vehicle, its switching over to the DC tow vehicles power, which has a blown fuse and no lights??

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/images/items/zoom/10UM83_AS01.JPG

nzwasp

06-05-2013, 09:28 PM

The trailer itself doesnt have any brakes and I dont have a brake controller. Also havent seen one of those boxes anywhere while looking around at all the wiring.

I have however noticed a tonne of worn cable and exposed wiring. Im taking to hobo camper country on monday to have the whole thing rewired so that its much easier to understand.

I had an additional question regarding the frame. It has a bit of surface rust on it from being so old. At what point do you take it into a shop to get it sandblasted and repainted? Im going to eventually repaint the outside of the trailer so I thought i'd wait till then.

C_Dave45

06-05-2013, 10:28 PM

Originally posted by nzwasp
The trailer itself doesnt have any brakes and I dont have a brake controller. Also havent seen one of those boxes anywhere while looking around at all the wiring.

I have however noticed a tonne of worn cable and exposed wiring. Im taking to hobo camper country on monday to have the whole thing rewired so that its much easier to understand.

I had an additional question regarding the frame. It has a bit of surface rust on it from being so old. At what point do you take it into a shop to get it sandblasted and repainted? Im going to eventually repaint the outside of the trailer so I thought i'd wait till then.
Whoa, whoa....WHAT??? Your RV trailer has no brakes????

You can't tow that on the road!

nzwasp

06-05-2013, 10:32 PM

Sure I can its only 1000lbs.

C_Dave45

06-05-2013, 10:38 PM

Originally posted by nzwasp
Sure I can its only 1000lbs.

Ohhhhh.....lol. I thought it was like a 20 footer or larger.

1,000 lb trailer and 20% of it is batteries! lol. 3 x 12v battteries?

nzwasp

06-05-2013, 10:46 PM

Yeah I think the previous owners were a bit overkill on the batteries as they only power a small 2.4 amp fridge and 2 lights.

spikerS

06-06-2013, 12:34 AM

wtf trailer did you get?

ExtraSlow

06-06-2013, 05:43 AM

Originally posted by spikers
wtf trailer did you get? +1 What is so light?

nzwasp

06-06-2013, 08:36 AM

Originally posted by spikers
wtf trailer did you get?

A 1975 boler 1300.

Cos

06-12-2013, 06:06 PM

Kavy

06-12-2013, 06:34 PM

What's the $299 for?

Personally I only deal with RV dealerships that do not have admin fees and have all in pricing.

Remember 2 tanks are $60 and a battery is another $80-120 (dealers tend to use low end batteries).

When buying an RV or a vehicle I always think getting 10% off the list is a good comfort zone for me to feel that the dealership is working with me for the sale.

What WDH and controller? $700 is not crazy over priced but its far from a decent deal. Most vehicles are plug and play with controllers now and a monkey can install them. I paid $400 for my Equalizer WDH and it is one of the better ones on the market.

I think your request of $13000 is not unreasonable at all.

spikerS

06-12-2013, 07:03 PM

Originally posted by Cos
So question on buying a used trailer from a dealer. The dealer we are going to says their prices are $xx,xxx + $299 + GST. Includes 2 20LB Propane bottles filled and a battery. They would put in a W.D. hitch, ball, bars, and the tow controller for $700.00.

Lets say the trailer is $13,000.00. Adding all that in price is $14,600 with rounding.

How much could you negotiate off something like this? What is common practice? Do I get them to go $13,000 all in or is that too much? Get them to throw in the $700 of stuff?

Thanks in advance!

Cos, I bought my WD hitch second hand off Kijiji for $125 and it looks brand new.

I bought a prodigy P3 controller off Kijiji for $100 and installed at the hitch shop for $45

2x30lbs LP bottles at costco for $80-90, and IIRC include first fill.

If you want an anti sway bar, get a friction one for $50 (NEW), and installs in seconds.

Give them an all in offer, tell them that their prices are high, and you can get it cheaper.

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-RVs-campers-trailers-parts-accessories-Reese-weight-distribution-hitch-bars-and-saddles-W0QQAdIdZ493880683

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-RVs-campers-trailers-parts-accessories-New-1000lb-Pro-Series-Complete-Weight-Distributing-Hitch-W0QQAdIdZ490293398

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-RVs-campers-trailers-parts-accessories-Trailer-hitch-and-weight-distribution-W0QQAdIdZ487524872

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-auto-parts-tires-other-parts-accessories-Trailer-brake-control-unit-W0QQAdIdZ480021656

seriously, NEW prices for this stuff is way too high, save a bunch and get it second hand. and the bottles at costco are stupid cheap.

and then, change to 2x6v golf cart batteries from Costco for $250 and it is way better than the deep cycle they would give you with the trailer.

ExtraSlow

06-12-2013, 07:22 PM

At any dealership, including RV dealers, the stuff they add on to the purchase price is heavily inflated in price.

Cos

06-12-2013, 08:00 PM

Cos

06-13-2013, 09:31 PM

spikerS

06-13-2013, 09:41 PM

Kavy

06-13-2013, 10:07 PM

Originally posted by Cos
Ok does the 10% rule thing work on new too? We found a new one asking $17,999 that is pretty nice:

http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-RVs-campers-trailers-travel-trailers-campers-2013-Grey-Wolf-25RL-Travel-Trailer-W0QQAdIdZ413727579

Also a couple other quick questions:

- Anyone have experience with Forest River or Grey Wolf?

- Anyone ever bought off ETrailer.com? They have good prices on Brake Controllers and WD hitches.

- Last question, looking at WD hitches, are they height adjustable? I am not sure what or how much of a drop I need.

thanks for the help guys!

I have used etrailer.com a few times for harnesses and parts here and there. No issues with them at all.

Spikers is right about the WDH, finding one on kijiji in the right weight is what you should be looking for as used they tend to be 20-30% of what they cost new and won't be an issue for you. A few of us could help you select the right one.

Now on to that trailer you posted.
Forest river is one of the largest trailer manufacturers in NA and a large amount of trailers made come under their umbrella just different branding. My parents have had 2 grey wolfs and aside from a few electrical issues here and there (both were fixed) they have been happy. I would say 10% off applies to new as well.

However.....I must stress my strong feelings for that dealer. People I have known who bought a trailer from Rangeland have stressed to be they will never buy from them again. I have have heard horror stories of warranty work not being completed properly until the 2nd, 3rd or even 4th visit. Not all experiences are the same but IMO it is not a dealer I would personally go to......ever.....like never ever.
Do a quick google on them and you will see my feelings are extremely common when it comes to Rangeland.

Cos

06-13-2013, 10:36 PM

Kavy

06-13-2013, 11:51 PM

Originally posted by Cos
That sucks! We heard good things about Rangeland and their prices seem awesome. What do you suggest is a good dealer? I went to Sunridge and didnt really like the feel of it. I was thinking Bobs Trailer or whatever it is in Red Deer?

We really like the layout of the 25RL. Great seating area with a huge window at the back and separated bedroom.

Each experience is different, but lets be honest most dealerships are great when your buying something, the real test is when you go in for warranty work (and there is always warranty work). If you feel it is a good place for your needs I say go with it, word of mouth and personal experience is enough for me to stay far away. Pm me if you want details and I can fill you in.

I have bought 2 TT's from Guarantee RV and had nothing but exceptional service from them. There is no hidden costs (delivery, admin etc) and the service shop has been great for for me.

codetrap

06-14-2013, 12:17 AM

Cos, I was originally going to buy at rangeland, but they were difficult to deal with and more expensive than Canadian leisure RV, which is where I bought my TT from.

Spikers, did you ever end up getting a generator? I got one in the garage if you didn't and want to try it out.

C_Dave45

06-14-2013, 06:53 AM

Hey Cos, I'll just throw this out there....

Are you stuck on buying from an RV dealer? Just as with used cars, RV dealer prices on used RV's are going to be inflated quite high compared to the same unit purchased privately. There's not a whole lot that can go wrong with an RV that you can't physically spot yourself. Not like with an engine, drive train, tranny, steering suspension, etc of a car.

You could save yourself thousands and/or upgrade to a larger size within the same budget. For example, this one (http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-RVs-campers-trailers-travel-trailers-campers-2004-Komfort-Trailblazer-24-Reduced-W0QQAdIdZ490290764QQfeaturedAdZtrue)

And if you REALLY want to save, then check in the US for dealers. I personally know of a few people who've gone down across the line and saved over $10,000 on RV's. The further south you go, the more you save. Much easier than importing a car. Plus you make a trip out of it!! Drive down with your truck, pick up your unit and camp on the way back.

We bought our 27' trailer in '09 for $11,000 and it was in mint shape. The same year trailer was going for around the $15-17 range at any used dealer.

Also; there's a big bump when you go from a 22/23 foot trailer up to a 26/27 trailer; full time bedroom!! Just an fyi to keep in mind. May not seem like much, but it's nice not to have to make up the bed and put away sleeping gear just to have your morning coffee or breakfast.

Oh, and just one thing really stands out on that Grey Wolf you're looking at: The bathroom and shower is right in the middle, taking up a lot of room. A shower is one thing you'll probably never use, other than a great storage spot for wet, rainy/muddy boots, jackets etc. It's nicer if it's at either end of the unit.

Here's a US dealer that has great reviews: www.bretzrv.com

A thread about buying from them: http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/showthread.php?t=96435

Cos

06-14-2013, 08:54 AM

C_Dave45

06-14-2013, 11:56 AM

I can respect all that. ^^.

Did you look at that one I gave the link for?

2004
New tires (~$1,000)
Two batteries a year old.
Two tanks (add say 60lbs, I think they're 30's)
Full time bedroom
1000 watt inverter (~$300)
New 16' awning!!
Includes your WD hitch!!!!
And shocks on the trailer!!

Don't need an inspection...that's a farce and money grab.

Asking price $9,900. Could probably get that for 9,000-9500 with no taxes

There's no way you'd find a comparable unit at a dealer for less than $12,000 or $13k, with all those options.

That's a savings of around $3,000. Lots of money for loading it up with all your own goodies.

spikerS

06-14-2013, 02:32 PM

Originally posted by codetrap
Cos, I was originally going to buy at rangeland, but they were difficult to deal with and more expensive than Canadian leisure RV, which is where I bought my TT from.

Spikers, did you ever end up getting a generator? I got one in the garage if you didn't and want to try it out.

yeah man, I would love to try the generator out, I am already pretty sure I want one, I am just not liking the price of them.

and Cos, if you want, I can take a look at some trailers with you. And FYI, that trailer dave pointed out is pretty sweet.

SOAB

06-14-2013, 02:58 PM

i have to say that dealing with Racetrack RV was pretty painless and very accomodating.

the service has been great as well. always replied to my emails in a timely manner, even remembered who i was and what trailer i bought when i called in to make an appointment for warranty.

the rig is in there now so we will see how they do with the repairs.

codetrap

06-16-2013, 10:27 AM

Originally posted by spikers
yeah man, I would love to try the generator out, I am already pretty sure I want one, I am just not liking the price of them.
Text me and stop on by and pick it up before you go next time. It's already gassed up and ready to go. You'll have to pull it off the shelf though, I'm not so good with heavy loads and crutches. :)

C_Dave45

06-16-2013, 11:09 AM

Originally posted by codetrap
Text me and stop on by and pick it up before you go next time. It's already gassed up and ready to go. You'll have to pull it off the shelf though, I'm not so good with heavy loads and crutches. :)

Which model do you have? We rented a Honda EU2000 for our most recent trip. We were pretty impressed with how quiet it ran. So now the wife says "we are buying one....no questions" lol.
Looking at around $1300-1500 for that model. We originally were thinking of just going for the 3000 so we could run the AC...but we have RARELY even used the AC and to spend another $1500 for the 3000, plus the fact it's so big and heavy, we've decided on the 2000. Runs everything else.